Plenty of swell ahead, though tricky winds to work around

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 1st May)

Best Days: Plenty of waves every day across all coasts though conditions won't be great until next week when we'll be under a troughy pattern locally. 

Recap: Tuesday delivered 3-5ft S’ly swell across the Northern NSW coast but the direction wasn’t great for SE Qld, so wave heights were much smaller here. The south swell eased steadily today and we’ve seen building E/SE swells from a local fetch across the Northern Tasman Sea, though winds have been locally onshore in most regions so conditions haven’t been great. 

This week (May 2-3)

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

We’re locked in a somewhat stationary synoptic pattern at the moment, thanks to a slow moving high pressure system setting up camp in the eastern Tasman Sea.

This is directly a broad E/SE fetch from the northern Tasman into the Coral Sea, which will generate a steady supply of E’ly swell for the next three or four days.

Wave heights will be largest across the SE Qld region (specifically, the Sunshine Coast), with surf size gradually becoming smaller as you track south to the Mid North Coast. Northern regions should see 3-4ft sets at times over the next few days, with 2-3ft surf in southern regions.

The big problem for the next few days will be the local winds. 

Intermittent onshores will continue across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW (E'ly Thurs, NE Fri), but there’ll be brief periods of light variable winds at times. Therefore, expect mainly lumpy/bumpy conditions across the surf zone but with occasional spells of clean faces. 

Across the Mid North Coast, extending north up into the Yamba or maybe Ballina region, we’ll see winds veer more NE and then N’ly at times, becoming gusty too. As such only northern corners will offer workable conditions. Keep your expectations low.

This weekend (May 4-5)

The trade flow across the Northern Tasman Sea will weaken into the weekend, leading to a gradual easing of size from Saturday onwards. However, a similar stationary fetch way out in the South Pacific (atop a large high pressure system at the moment) should ensure a small supply of intermittent E'ly swell into the weekend and early next week.

The big factor this weekend will be the winds.

A southerly change will push up along the Northern NSW coast on Saturday, reaching the Mid North Coast around lunchtime and the Far North Coast late in the day, then SE Qld overnight (ahead of it, winds may tend NW, favouring the open beaches for much of Saturday in the north).

Sunday's resulting south swell (and strong local S/SW winds) will be linked to an evolving Tasman Low, however most of Sunday’s increase in surf size will be local generated, and therefore the swell quality won’t be especially high. 

Better quality groundswell is expected early next week from several sources, but despite set waves likely to reach 4-5ft+ at south facing beaches (south of Byron) by late Sunday, protected locations will be very small and I am doubtful that the south swell will make much of an impact in SE Qld - where local winds will be best suited.

Next week (May 6 onwards)

We’ve got plenty of swell due next week. But, the swell sources are tricky so we’ll have to take a closer look on Friday. 

A series of deep polar lows travelling along the ice shelf well south of Tasmania on Saturday will kick up small long period S'ly energy for Monday and Tuesday across Northern NSW, peaking around 3-4ft at south facing beaches.

However there’s much more size potential from the weekend’s Tasman Low.

Model guidance is a little all over the shop right now, but we’re looking at potentially large SE thru' S’ly swells across Southern NSW. Unfortunately, the alignment of the low is a little off-kilter for our region (see chart below) so I’m going to cautiously hold size in around 4-5ft+ at south facing beaches south of Byron - though with much better quality swell, and light local winds as troughy conditions settle across the region. 

Confidence is not high on whether this swell will push north of the border though. And locations not open to the south will be smaller. 

This event will ease into Tuesday, to be replaced with a moderate E’ly swell from a stationary fetch on the eastern flank of the associated trough occupying the western Tasman Sea. Again, this fetch looks like it may end up being better aimed towards Southern NSW than Northern NSW (see chart below), which is OK for the Mid North Coast but size potential decreases north from Yamba, with a lot less size likely in SE Qld. 

However! It’s not all over… the north-eastern Tasman region looks pretty juicy next week, as the resulting fetch is likely to extend further back into the South Pacific swell window and is thus a potentially longer term source of E’ly swell for the region, if the Tasman trough remains slow moving through the week (which is quite likely).

At this stage Tues/Wed/Thurs could all see E’ly swell anywhere between 3-5ft (across the Mid North Coast, smaller to the north), with much better conditions as the local airstream rapidly from Sunday’s blow, and there’s certainly more than a couple of ingredients on the boil for another significant swell generating system to redevelop in the Tasman Sea towards the end of the working week too, that could supply stronger surf into next weekend.

Let’s take another look on Friday.

Comments

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Wednesday, 1 May 2019 at 6:53pm

Holy shit sakes!
How many times do we have to hear the same fcst over again. Groundhog day every day.

"Plenty of swell ahead, though tricky winds to work around"

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 1 May 2019 at 8:02pm

Eh? There’s more to the forecaster notes than the article title.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 7:51am

There's either east swell with onshore winds or south swell which is never able to wrap into the points, if they even make it past Byron. This place is cursed.

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 9:46am

Stop being a sook, there are spots to surf if your keen and don't mind a drive. what region do you live in?

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:02am

Uppa gold coast.
But....I mission all over N NSW in search.

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 9:59am

This morning was glassy, peaky and fun as, next two days looking the same

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 10:10am

If it’s cursed then you’ve got to take matters into your own hands to lift it.

As the traditional board burning is not viewed too highly these days , a massive drinking binge may need to suffice.

Take a couple of kegs down the point and let everyone know what’s going on and that they are welcome to lend their support. Then get it on.....

Whinging won’t cut it. I’ve learnt this from decades of determined perseverance. Just ask my missus if you don’t believe me.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:04am

Rock solid advice bru.
A binge followed by a burning sounds like a plan.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 10:19am

I have two new boards ......if May stays flat or onshore, or both , they may need to go up in flames.

This is pure fucking smeg.

I wouldn't feed this autumn to a starving pig.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:05am

I like you, we should get together for a binge.

frog's picture
frog's picture
frog Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 10:57am

Some people are rather fussy - it s a good forecast as far as I am concerned. Swell every day - lots of options if you are not expecting perfection.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:06am

Great for beginners!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 11:07am

Driving 45 minutes to surf 3ft beachies.
In May?

Beep-boh.

Every time this autumn threatens to get out of first gear Huey throws it into reverse and we go back to the shit gurgle small E swell and constant onshores.

5 days in a row of Nor-east winds to start May with a pissant little gurgly E swell underneath it......it's becoming comical.

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 12:27pm

Sacrificing a boy band will appease the surf god's and break any curse. I like the outlook too frog and count my blessings.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 12:40pm

Seems to be a small percentage of north in the swell direction on the Tweed Coast.

Tony Miller-Greenman's picture
Tony Miller-Greenman's picture
Tony Miller-Greenman Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 4:18pm

This looks like a great forecast! Thanks Ben, something to look forward to Saturday and into next week... there have been waves about, and more to come by the looks of it.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:13am

2-3ft high tide semi-closeout beachies, with a northerly about to tear it up.

Same story for November.
Same story for December.
January.
Feb (apart from Oma)
March
April

and now May.

Seems like all the kings horses and all the kings men can't put a surf pattern back together again.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:44am

Getting any fish ?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 3 May 2019 at 10:02am

negative. Thrashed the water to foam the whole way through those babyfood days in March and April without a single pelagic hook-up.

Can't even find a tailor at the moment.

As Trump would say: Sad!

Doesn't seem like any mullet are around but I'll still fish the high tides over this new moon for a jew.

J Barlow's picture
J Barlow's picture
J Barlow Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:52am

Spot on FR.

Two bob's worth..the subtropical belt is expanding and has been pushing the highs and lows further south in recent years, changing the wind and swell patterns somewhat.
Feels like we gotta wait a bit later each year to hit the the seasonal conditions we are so used to.

Hopefully not new normal..

https://theconversation.com/the-worlds-tropical-zone-is-expanding-and-au...

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 3 May 2019 at 10:09am

I thought last Autumn would be the lamest one I would ever see.
This one is making it look like Indo.

Mothers Day last year, probably the best day of the Autumn.
Fall over in shock if I saw a day like it now.

J Barlow's picture
J Barlow's picture
J Barlow Friday, 3 May 2019 at 10:20am

Geezarz!.. that hurts to look at it

frog's picture
frog's picture
frog Friday, 3 May 2019 at 10:45am

mmmm trade swell looking weaker and ECL is more of a south coast low....

uncle_leroy's picture
uncle_leroy's picture
uncle_leroy Friday, 3 May 2019 at 10:52am

Maybe can blame the Government for changing the weather instead of Huey - https://www.spectator.com.au/2019/03/the-hottest-summer-on-record-except...

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 3 May 2019 at 10:59am

That's soo tasty Steve! Even a little hard for me to look at and we've had waves.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Friday, 3 May 2019 at 11:25am

Working winter on the east coast of Tas once, you'd be in the lee of the westerlies so day after day was beautiful offshore, flat. The chance for a wave was when a passing front whipped up a northerly or NE into this coast. Is this what's happening to QLD? We've had a couple of big swell (and tiny bit of snow sprinkling) fronts down this way so far.

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Friday, 3 May 2019 at 6:10pm

think people have forgotten what good waves look like and happy to put up with this rubbish