There are no new swell sources in the water for the next few days, so we can expect a continuation of this extremely inconsistent but otherwise fun E’ly swell over the weekend, sourced from a distant, retreating fetch in the South Pacific south of Fiji earlier in the week.
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Friday is much better all round as the new E’ly swell is expected to coincide with a relaxation of the coastal pressure gradient and thus light variable winds and sea breezes.
Southern NSW has retained plenty of size all day so we should be looking at some solid waves for the early session on Tuesday though a gradual easing trend is expected throughout the day.
Lots of swell for the next week ahead.
We’re still looking at the same broad synoptic pattern but the particulars have changed; most notably the strength and consolidation (or lack thereof) of an E’ly fetch through the lower Coral Sea.
The models are suggesting a late season tropical low will form in the Coral Sea this weekend.
Sunday just became a little more complex within the model guidance.
Ex-TC Donna is currently re-emerging from the swell shadow of New Caledonia, and will generate a fresh E’ly tending swell for all coasts.
STC Donna reached Cat 4 strength over the weekend, and was actually upgraded to Cat 5 this morning, with average wind speeds of 110kts and gusts to 140kts. That's about 260km/hr.
Crikey - the long term surf forecast got a heck of a lot more difficult over the last few days.