Wide range of S'ly and E'ly swells ahead; dicey winds Sunday

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 7th February)

Best Days: Thurs: fun though easing S'ly swell in Northern NSW, small swell combo in SE Qld. Fri: rebuilding E'ly swell across SE Qld. Sat: further increase in E'ly swell everywhere, with light winds. 

Recap: Our new E’ly swell that built Monday didn’t end up quite reaching forecast expectations, with generally inconsistent 3ft+ sets on offer across most open beaches early Tuesday morning, easing slowly throughout the day and into Wednesday, though there are still 2-3ft sets at exposed beaches this afternoon. A new S’ly swell has however built across south facing beaches in Northern NSW today, with sets around 4ft (see image from our Coffs Harbour surfcam, below). 

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

Building S'ly swell in Coffs Harbour this afternoon

This week and weekend (Feb 8-9)

Thursday will see a slow easing of the current S’ly swell across the coast, which is due to reach peak tonight around 4-5ft across Northern NSW. Early morning will see the most size, but it’ll be biggest in the north - sets somewhere between 3ft and 5ft from Byron to Coffs Harbour at dawn, smaller south from here, and with a steady easing trend throughout the day

This south swell isn’t well aligned for SE Qld so we’ll see a small combo of residual swell and south swell here, with the most size at exposed northern ends up to 2-3ft. Most Gold and Sunshine Coast beaches will see smaller surf around the 1-2ft mark. 

The current ridge over the region will weaken slowly into Thursday, which should result in early SW winds tending moderate SE across Far Northern NSW and SE Qld coasts, with a longer period of lighter SW winds across the Mid North Coast. Certainly not perfect but workable in the morning.

On Friday, the south swell will continue to ease but we’ll see a new mid-range E’ly swell fill in, generated by a developing trough north and north-east of New Zealand. It’s expected to strength and push towards our coast over the coming days, generating a larger swell over the weekend, but initially we’ll see an increase in size throughout SE Qld and Far Northern NSW from the early stages of this system that is not particularly well aligned for our region (aimed into New Caledonia). 

Surf size should build up into the 2-3ft range at most open beaches and outer points during the day, though surf size will be smaller south from about Ballina. There’ll be some trailing S’ly swell in the water here but not a lot. 

Winds look pretty good just about everywhere on Friday, mainly light and variable with sea breezes. So there’ll be fun workable options to finish the working week

This weekend (Feb 10-11)

Saturday looks like the pick of the weekend, with freshening northerlies set to cause some problems on Sunday

Fortunately, both days will see building E’ly swells from the westward-tracking trough across the north of New Zealand. It’s expected to cross the North Island and enter the Tasman Sea on Thursday and should reach maturity early Friday, before easing off (though a trailing NE fetch to the NE of new Zealand should maintain background energy beyond the initial pulse). 

Wave heights should build from 3ft+ on Saturday across Northern NSW to 4ft+ by Sunday morning, then easing throughout the afternoon. Surf size will be a little smaller across SE Qld due to the swell direction, building from 2-3ft to 3ft+ across the outer points from Saturday into Sunday, with bigger surf at exposed northern ends. 

Saturday is certainly the best day to aim for though with generally light winds and sea breezes. There’s a chance for an early period of NW winds on Sunday morning across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW but elsewhere we’re looking at freshening N’ly winds that could reach 15-18kts into the afternoon, which will restrict the best surf to protected northern corners. 

Also in the water over the weekend will be a small, inconsistent pulse of long range S/SE swell generated by a polar low off the ice shelf south of New Zealand earlier this week. Only south facing beaches south of Byron will pica up this energy, with Saturday the best chance for any decent size (expect long breaks between the sets). 

Next week (Feb 12 onwards)

Most of the long term synoptic activity will occur in the South Pacific as a series of tropical lows pull off the monsoon trough, with one or two likely to develop into Tropical Cyclones. At this stage it’s still too early to pin down the specifics however the middle to latter part of next week is looking at some small to moderate long range E'ly groundswell energy across Southern NSW, with further swell expected beyond this too.

The Tasman Sea also looks a little unstable in the model runs for next week though there’s no definitive sign of any major swell generating systems. However, there is certainly many of the required ingredients, and I’m confident we’ll be looking at some punchy mid range swell from a local weather system at some point during the week. So, let’s take a closer look on Friday to see how it’s all shaping up.

Comments

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Wednesday, 7 Feb 2018 at 6:35pm

nothing dicey about an early NW on the SC might be able to surf the beach agian

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 7 Feb 2018 at 11:39pm

Exactly Umunga.... 3 to 4 foot with a nw on the sunny coast..... A few not so media saturated spots will be prime.
It aint all about right hand points, Benny boy ;)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 8 Feb 2018 at 2:45pm

It ain't all about the Sunny Coast either! Ha.

As these notes are for everywhere between Fraser Island and Seal Rocks, it's hard to be ultra specific (without turning each Monday, Wednesday and Friday into a dissertation). Though, I did say "There’s a chance for an early period of NW winds on Sunday morning across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW but elsewhere we’re looking at freshening N’ly winds that could reach 15-18kts into the afternoon".

So, it was certainly acknowledged - though perhaps not in bright neon lights and fireworks.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 8 Feb 2018 at 5:43pm

I prefer the NO bright neon lights and fireworks thanks Ben!!! :)

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Thursday, 8 Feb 2018 at 11:18pm

Too right sheepy !! Fingers crossed so can get away from those crowded spots

blow-in-9999's picture
blow-in-9999's picture
blow-in-9999 Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 7:47am

I see 2' on Saturday and 2-3' on Sunday. Early morning high makes it somewhat tempting but nothing to get overly frothing over. I can't imagine more than a 2-3hr window (with a few exceptions).

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 1:27pm

blowin9999...... What I see, and I quote ben, "3ft+ across the outer points from Saturday into Sunday, with bigger surf at exposed northern ends. "

3 foot PLUS with bigger surf at exposed northern ends..... Basically that reads 3 to 4 foot to me - with a nw being offshore at at least 8 QUALITY surf breaks between D.I and caloundra, with 1 of those breaks being maybe WORLD CLASS.
Get your paddling arms ready, and some betadine lol

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 1:47pm

I prefer the NO bright neon lights and fireworks SD!!! ;)

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 8 Feb 2018 at 2:31pm

Sheepy, SPCZ and westward retrograde on top of the high next week.............real deal or model fantasy?

southey's picture
southey's picture
southey Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 12:05pm

I've been chatting to a few people about this system . As the WWB and accompanying Kelvin wave looks critical to this years outlook . But its looking more and more likely that a Fujiwhara effect of sorts is going to this shot this system with retro grade . And remarkably now calling for a LONG stall and intensification . Shits going to get real .

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 2:31pm

Thanks Southey. Surprised there's little to no chatter on WZone forum about this.

southey's picture
southey's picture
southey Saturday, 10 Feb 2018 at 12:05am

The climate , IOD / ENSO guys are onto it . As this is pivotal moment in the next 18mths precipital forecasts world wide .
This potential Fujiwhara slingshot could put the anchors on what was starting to develop into a significant Kelvin Wave .
If the low Bombs during its slingshot fast , the there will be momentum through and out of the slingshot . So the Further west and stronger it is during this intial retrograde movement . The more chance of it continuing further west under its own steam , and enhancing the possibility of a Ridge pushing up behind it to continue its slide westward towards the Tasman/Coral seas . As sheepy and i are definitely on the same wavelength of supporting LWT / Tropical features holding the Upper block in place . Then yes it looks good . But bare in mind although we have seen a pattern of short western movements lately . This would be next level , and would signal that La Nina may infact Quasi triple dip . TWT

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 1:36pm

Don.... Been a bit hectic.... Haven't had much chance to REALLY look at things.... But last week I mentioned here about some action..
Firstly, the break off low and trough that has moved westward and is sitting above NZ now. I got a feeling that the swell prediction may have been slightly under called for sunny coast .... But thats a good thing. Best to undercall and say "my bad" lol.... no real refraction..... Ese gets straight in - Moreton island doesnt come into play....... But wont get into that magic uncrowded series of secret points bahahahaha..... Maybe the most outer one at dead low will be 2 foot at best, incredibly inconsistent, and an absolute joke when the beachies are 4 foot.
As for the next lot of tropical action, I'll have a look.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 1:49pm

Ok..... Don.....
In Laymans terms, that high is trapped.... Find your fave world view.... Look at 12th and 13th feb..... High surrounded by lows.... the 2 most critical lows anchoring the high are to its ene ( part of tropical mess) and an antarctic low sse of the high..
It aint moving...
Sooooooo...... The predicted cyclone has 3 options..... Sit there and be a bitch..... Head ese with its little sister..... Or....... West... Considering we just had a low heading west (this weekends upcoming 3 to 4 foot swell), I have witnessed what i call the "snail trail" effect so many times....
I think there's a REAL chance of westward movement.
Cheers.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 2:11pm

Thanks SD

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 5:41am

I hate to jinx but models have been increasingly firm on it Donw.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 7:27am

Yes they have Steve. Fingers crossed but it all hinges on two key ingredients. Westward retrograde on top of the high. Without either she's game over.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 10:03am

Lots of lines very close together, but gee they're nice and glassy!

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 11:49am

Wow, if latest GFS comes to fruition, god help New Cal and surrounding islands!!!

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 12:08pm

Unusual for those tropical systems to come in so hard from the east at relatively high latitudes?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 12:14pm

Fun looking beachies at Narrowneck.. right on the reef.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 2:44pm

Did someone say cradle..

Huge upper level blocking pattern..

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 4:10pm

You use the above pics for LWT. LWT are nodes off the South Pole? Anyways, simple question with im sure a complicated answer, but shouldnt that picture be some sort of horizontal symmetry ?

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 4:12pm

Actually. Not symmetrical but kinda like the billabong logo if that makes sense haha?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 4:24pm

South and North, and not not symmetrical at all, they move around kinda like lava lamp blobs.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 9 Feb 2018 at 9:55pm

I like lava lamps!!!