Tricky forecast period, so make the most of Saturday's beachies

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Victorian Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday November 15th)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Fun beachies most coasts early Saturday with freshening NE winds and easing swells
  • Generally small and windy Sunday
  • Low/mod confidence for an early window of good waves west of Melbourne on Monday (should be options inside W'Port)
  • Easing surf Tues/Wed with light/mod S'lies
  • Another decent groundswell Thurs/Fri but E'ly winds will spoil things Thurs, conditions should improve Fri

Recap

Small surf early Thursday built in size during the day with decent 3ft sets across the reefs in the afternoon however conditions were bumpy with onshore winds. The breeze has eased into today, not enough to properly clean up the wobble along the Surf Coast (though surf conditions were still OK) but the open beaches east of Melbourne fared a little better with the wind around to the SE. Today’s size has held steady around 3ft west of Melbourne and 4-5ft to the east.

This weekend (Nov 16 - 17)

No changes to the weekend outlook.

We’ve got two days of easing surf, with surf size expected to maintain 2-3ft sets across the Surf Coast and 3-5ft east of Melbourne on Saturday morning - however winds will be around to the NE which will only favour open beaches. 

Early on may retain a little bit of lumpiness from overnight SE winds so bear this in mind (the cleanest conditions will happen into the afternoon, though surf size will be easing at this point).

Also in the water on Saturday morning will be a small SE swell - generally showing west from Torquay - generated by a small fetch developing west of Flinders Island this morning. 

Sunday looks pretty average. Aside from a brief period of light variable winds early morning, we’re looking at windy conditions as a weak trough crosses the coast, with gusty W/SW winds trailing behind. This should impact most regions by mid-late morning, though by mid-late afternoon we may see the wind veer back to the W/NW as a stronger front stands up from the west.

Regardless, there won’t be any new swell in the water, we’ll see small residual energy from Saturday on offer. So unless you’re prepared to roll the dice for an early paddle ahead of the change, give it a miss. 

Next week (Nov 18 onwards)

OK, I’m gonna downgrade my outlook for the Monday swell.

The low still looks really good on the synoptic chart (see below, right) but unfortunately the models are now trending towards a disjointed multi-centered setup, essentially cutting off the primary low from polar latitudes, and developing two individual swell generating systems rather than one long fetch with an intense core, as was predicted a few days earlier. 

This wouldn’t be too much of an issue, except the primary system is positioned just north of our preferred swell window, which means we’ll see a lot more west in the swell direction, and this will also attenuate surf size in Torquay a lot more than previously thought.

We’re still going to see plenty of size though, as core winds around this low will be very strong (up to 40-50kts) but with local winds becoming fresh to strong (Surf Coast) and strong to gale force (East Coast), there won’t be many places to choose from.

So, let’s peg wave heights back to 3-5ft along the Surf Coast. Early morning should offer a brief window of W/NW winds before SW winds kick in mid-morning onwards, but I’m really not confident that the swell will be in the water at first light (shouldn’t be far behind) so keep your expectations in check, it’s definitely not a high confidence event and we could be in for some disappointment.

East of Melbourne should build to 6-8ft through the day and we’ll probably see waves in Western Port at some point; early morning will have the best conditions with a brief W/NW flow ahead of gusty SW winds, but again, the same swell-arrival-time-caveats applies here as per Torquay. Size could disappoonit at protected spots too, owing to the short fetch length, close eproximity of the swell source, and thus lower swell period.

Reinforcing SW swells from the associated polar low will fill in on Tuesday, easing Wednesday, but it’ll be about the same size as the easing energy from Monday (3-4ft west of Melbourne down to 2-3ft, a few feet bigger east of Melbourne).

Local winds look better but not great these days, throttling back to a light southerly that will probably be just enough to retain surface lumpiness at exposed spots.

Thursday looks tricky but likely a write-off. 

A new groundswell is expected to fill in, generated by a strong polar low developing east of Heard Island from Sunday onwards (and gaining strength rapidly below West Oz) - this should kick up inconsistent 3-5ft sets across the Surf Coast that’ll persist into Friday (and 6ft bombs east of Melbourne) however a strong high pressure ridge developing underneath Tasmania is expected to generate fresh to strong easterly winds through Bass Strait that will cause a whole heap of surface quality issues. They'll also generate 3ft+ of short period SE swell along the Surf Coast too.

These winds should ease into Friday but we really need a few more days to assess just how much Thursday’s local airflow will influence surf quality into the end of the week. 

Looking beyond this and a small spell is finally on the cards for the following week. 

Have a great weekend! See you Monday. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 12:55pm

Max temps at Aireys Inlet on Saturday reached 33.7 around 5pm.

By 1am Sunday morning it had only dropped to 27 degrees.

Between 2am and 10am temps hovered between 18-20 degrees.

It's since dropped to 10 degrees between 11am and 1pm. That's seventeen degrees lower than at 1am.

And winds are still NW, the change hasn't arrived yet.

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 2:26pm

Change came in at like 1030

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 2:41pm

That was a weak event preceding the main change which is trailing well behind (currently WNW Cape Otway). Though the temp drop was impressive.

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 3:11pm

Not disagreeing but whats weak about gusts of 7 knots increasing to 40 within the hour?

South channel. Not Cape Otway.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 3:21pm

Sorry, poor choice of words. Meant shallow/temporary, as the strong winds only lasted a few hours.

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 3:59pm

Okie doke. Just to clairfy, sometimes a shallow change can mean temporary? I’ve always just assumed shallow meant weak in strength.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 4:06pm

A shallow change will usually have a shorter duration than one which extends deeper into the atmosphere, however there are other factors at play today (such as the significant system approaching from the west). Actual wind strength could be related to a number of factors (for example, a short period of squally winds often occurs around thunderstorm patterns).

PLStocks's picture
PLStocks's picture
PLStocks Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 1:29pm

It's a shame there was no swell tho

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 1:37pm

Saturday was very fun on a floaty board in the warm conditions. I wondered if another swell was in the water... Finding a solo sand/rock patch and some great little shape. No one else paddled over, I'll take that.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 2:16pm

Yeah should have been a mix of easing SW swell and a minor short period SE swell.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 2:28pm

Thanks Ben, it warped and wedged a little. Big gaps between bigger waves.

The temperature change has been huge today, and that it remained so (relatively) hot so late has made today all the more interesting. Gusty NW flow and cumulus now.

Oh yeah, calm wind and hot about 5:30am with the smell of bushfire in the air, I think there was a fire down Yuulong on the GOR. Very dry in the region currently - when wind change did go through this morning it did so without rain, that is the one to watch for. Temps started dropping and some rain came later.

SurfLad's picture
SurfLad's picture
SurfLad Monday, 18 Nov 2024 at 12:02am

yes the smoke was a sight to behold sitting out in the water @johanna

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 2:48pm

How’s the flies! Going beserk!

icandig's picture
icandig's picture
icandig Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 6:06pm

aaarggghhh! the flies were horrendous. I swallowed one and nearly lost a lung coughing it up.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Monday, 18 Nov 2024 at 10:13am

hahaha they were friendly out in the water, weren't they?

icandig's picture
icandig's picture
icandig Monday, 18 Nov 2024 at 12:00pm

Didn't follow me into the water. I was fishing later in the day and they were all over me. Trying to bait up was a nightmare..

anthony.olsen's picture
anthony.olsen's picture
anthony.olsen Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 6:25pm

Apologies if posted elsewhere but was Swellnet offline yesterday and the bulk of today? I was getting the page load but no data and an error on the phone saying it couldn't decode raw data. Made me realise how often I check it :)

To be clear no server or browser errors on the laptop. Just a blank page.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 6:41pm

Thread here (long story short, only affected a tiny percentage of users, and we're unsure what caused it).

https://www.swellnet.com/forums/website-troubleshooting/596433

anthony.olsen's picture
anthony.olsen's picture
anthony.olsen Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 9:35pm

Thanks Ben - I've got nothing extra to add to that but glad it's stopped.
Cape Sorell has started to rise now - be interesting to see how the winds play out in the morning.

Weatherman's picture
Weatherman's picture
Weatherman Sunday, 17 Nov 2024 at 9:56pm

I was getting blank pages on Swellnet yesterday too. Even stranger, on Friday I had trouble getting anything on Swellnet. A large cross would come up on a white page with a message saying " You have been directed to Swellnet too many times." It also suggested deleting cookies. I had no idea what was going on.