Photos: The Shining Right
"Easter 2015. That's the last time it was this good."
Tim Bonython is leafing through his diary as he scratches for comparisons to last Saturday's sessions at the Right.
It's a fickle beast, a lot of variables have to come together for the Right to just tick over. But for it to not just break, but really shine...well, that only happens once every few years.
"Put it this way," says Tim. "I've been shooting it for ten years and I've only seen it like that three, maybe four times."
Last Saturday at the Right was that good. Swellnet started tracking the storm a week earlier with each model run shifting the forecast. What about the direction? What about the wind? By mid-week, Craig Brokensha was confident and he gave Tim the heads up: Book your flight, mate.
"Nights before are always nervous," says Tim. "Everything has to be checked and double-checked, batteries charged, every bit of equipment working. You can't just come back to land and get it."
Rising to the alarm and busting out across the water in the half-light, Tim and his driver Wisey were on the scene early. The wind wasn't great at that point, but worse was when Tim switched his camera on and got a warning screen. We'll spare the technicalities, but he was having battery memory issues. Not good.
"I couldn't do anything about it," says Tim. Clearly the day wasn't just going to be about framing and positioning, Tim also had to shut his camera down and be clever about it. Problem was the camera takes a minute to reboot and he missed a number of incredible rides, while waiting for the beach ball, or whatever his Red Epic Weapon camera uses, to stop spinning.
By mid-morning the wind had backed off and gone true offshore, a number of tow squads turned up, along with a handful of bodyboard paddlers (!), plus a few cameramen in the channel, and the good times rolled.
Dan Corbett on one of the waves of the day - there were at least thirty of them
Henry Davies, nose pointed towards land, eyes toward the channel
Anyone remember Chris Ross' double hand drag from 2014? Jake Osman does. He's shown here putting the same technique into action
Brad Norris displaying John John-levels of nonchalance
Jake Osman drives from deep inside a clean barrel
Dan Ryan in transition as the bowl section swings towards him
Unknown backdooring the left
Brad Norris backdooring the right
Bodyboarder Shane Ackerman put on a steely performance, paddling into a few waves that the tow crew let go. There's no way to paddle into the Right except from under the ledge so Shane had to hold his ground when the sets stacked up. This approach requires significant intestinal fortitude; the ability to put mind over matter.
But every now and again 'matter' won. In this case 100 cubic tonnes of it.
Said Tim: "Bodyboarder Shane Ackerman literally swam for his life when this monster came through. Yes, Shane survived, but only just. He got sucked over and held down without an inflatable vest."
"Shane was a lucky man to survive this moment."
We look forward to seeing the video.
Shane Ackerman paddle entry before his bluff was called
Simon Hicks driving a pure line through the bowl
Chris Shanahan in sequence: a carefree abseil down the face...
...leads to a critical cliff face run as the lip throws
Dan Ryan freefalling sideways
Dan Corbett under a big blue rainbow
Jake Osman staring at the heavens
Jake Osman at front and Anj Semark at rear doing a double tow - AKA the Bellet Ballet.
Shortly after they towed out, Tim shut his camera down to wait. When the call came through that a set was approaching it was too late. Brad Norris caught the first wave, which Chris Bryan filmed, and then had to wait for his camera to save and reload, while Tim's camera went through the whole rebooting procedure.
Jake and Anj were on the next wave and with no cameras rolling they had a double wipeout for the ages. "Wipeout of the year," says Tim. "No question. I was physically sick from watching it, and also 'cause I was missing it."
Apparently there's some iPhone footage somewhere so keep an eye out for that.
And despite the magnitude of the spill - Anj came up spitting blood - he ain't daunted by the event: "It's just made me more determined to nail that angle," he said afterwards.
Brad Norris perfectly weighted as the day draws to a close
Moon shot!
Comments
Underground chargers ruling the roost.
Looking like it might just be paddleable for the most committed?
Who will be the first to paddle it ?
Or has it happened already?
On another note I heard a filmmaker on a pod cast say that he doesn't like to use the red cam to film ( other activity) . says there too slow to set up and problematic.
Said there great for studio work . filmmaker prefers to just use regular HD.
I'm wondering did shane take his wristrope off and let the board go, or try to duckdive it? I think I'd be ditching the board personally, not a fan of being dragged backwards over the falls by my board. That's got to be one of the worst caught insides ever!
if anyone got footage of boog shane ackerman wipeout please let me know - i'll happily pay to see that. thats the scariest photo ive ever seen.
Yeah im wondering if this will be paddleable in the future. The way big wave surfing is going it may just be
Some spongers are mental, they seriously charge harder than anyone.
Kudos Shane Ackerman you crazy bastard.
There’s a lot of “BEST DAY EVER!!!” these days.
As soon as Shane Ackerman dove through that mountain range of liquid bulk, he'd automatically be 50+ feet underwater with the wave back above him. Enough to blow your eardrums before going over the falls and drilled deep again. Bugger that. How does one decide to sit on the edge of that ledge under your own steam on a day of swell like that?? Seeing a swell like this in deep ocean water is exhilarating but to see that same swell drain off a reef... Crikey moses! Mega kudos to all madmen that surf there.
You wanna set that Shane Ackerman behemoth as your wallpaper. I've just spent minutes spellbound by this shifting-and-collapsing mountain. You can't say that you scrolled past it in fear right , well maybe you did but scrolled back with that need to confirm you have balls . It's human instinct to zone in and try and imagine yourself in a devilish scenario. It Brings those blitz shivers so often associated with our innate desire to experience horror without having to endure the consequences.
What the hell is the elevation difference between poor Shane and the 2 jetski riders way up above?? How many meters or feet in height? 100 cubic tonnes? Nah I reckon more than 10,000 cubes+ in that wave. Where's the scientists at right now? That stuff is incomprehensible. Everyone riding waves here are like the guys doing double backflips on motorbikes. Risk vs reward. Reward first thinking but with tons of prep incase of risk. I get my heartbeat ticking at 2x overhead. These guys are sicko's!
I too want to acknowledge Shane Ackerman, the courage to sit where he sits; and deal with the consequences in that photo. If the trendy zeitgeist is "there is nothing but being in the moment" - I would love to see a film of the neurological imagery of his brain as all that skill, preparation and commitment processes this moment of reality. That's the future of surf filming for me, it would be like GG's piece that was used in Space Odyssey that Pink Floyd toured with; that is, takes us all to the next level.
https://open.spotify.com/episode/6YpSrm9Ongpc5WtUObgiZa?si=8dFowC2wTiSFs...
Interview with shane
https://open.spotify.com/episode/6YpSrm9Ongpc5WtUObgiZa?si=8dFowC2wTiSFs...
Interview with shane
Inspiring podcast marcus!