Fantasy Atlas: The Darling Coast

As the world turns away from the internet and picks up books again, Swellnet has decided to move with the times and publish a surf atlas. The following excerpt is taken from Swellnet's Fantasy Surf Atlas which will be published next month - see details below.

This chapter documents one of Australia's favourite surf destinations. A thirty-kilometre stetch of coast that's home to almost as many waves. A coastline that was almost spoiled by rutile miners yet saved by the O'Connor Government who turned the whole region, from Port Ralph in the south to Bow Head in the north, into a state conservation area. Today there are no dwellings on the Darling Coast, surfers and visitors have to camp, and the coast looks much as it did when the first surfers arrived in the late 1950s.

Time to fantasise.

Located four hours north of the East Coast’s biggest city, access to the Darling Coast from the south used to mean either waiting for the unreliable ferry or a long drive around the Biggera Mountain Range. These days a bridge connects the suburbs of Port Ralph with the lower Darling coast. It’s added to the numbers in the water but the sheer quantity and quality of breaks in the Darling makes a visit worthwhile, especially when the winter southerly swells are running.

North Beach runs, as you'd expect, north from the river and has constantly shifting sandbanks, peppered by the threat of noahs and isolation. Take care if you must surf here. At the far end is Witchies, the first wave of significance on the Darling Coast. Witchies - still called Which Ways by surfers of a certain age - has an outside righthander that breaks off an exposed rock that reforms into a surprisingly well-shaped left. The carpark is usually signposted, though the sign is just as often souveniered by traveling surfers. Witchies can be good on any swell from south round to east. The outer wave offers good wind protection though it needs some swell for the inside left to break - not too much, however, or it’ll wash through. Best on high tides.

Driving north, Windradyne is the creek entrance at the southern end of the next beach which shares the same name. Wave quality depends on the sand but it’s often good after a downpour when the creekmouth flushes sand into the lineup. Worth looking up the beach as it can have better than average banks just a short walk away.

Don't underestimate the Windradyne beachies (Tyson Moore)

On the back of the next headland north is Spinners, a short but sweet reef break that regularly throws up spitting barrels. Contrary to belief, Spinners doesn’t get its name from the wave shape, but from a rusting hulk, now removed, of a Ford Twin Spinner that sat on the rock platform. History lesson over, access is a steep walk down the headland. Very exposed so an offshore wind, or no wind, is required.

Little Spinners is 100 metres down the point. Rarely as good but with better wind protection.

There are a number of rock platforms and holes north of Spinners for those who like to wet a line. The government has long threatened to protect fish stocks with a marine park but as of publication nothing has come to pass.

Buttons Beach is the next beach north though surfers usually just refer to the reef midway along. An almost perfect peak, Buttons will offer something in any swell direction and even any swell size - it’s the biggest swell magnet on the Darling. On a coast littered with righthanders, the Buttons left will attract goofys looking for some respite. A true peak, collisions are common when it's big and surfers try to backdoor the wave. Look before pulling in.

A classic day at the Buttons left with South African traveller Conrad Marche barrelled inside as another surfer chips in out the back (Photo CoastVisions)

North of Buttons, the road winds over a large headland that opens into a broad sandy bay leading out to a long pointbreak. What more can be said about Hunters Point that hasn’t already been said a hundred times over? It doesn’t matter if it’s your first visit or hundredth, that initial drive over the hill when the full sweep of HP comes into view is enough to stop anyone in their tracks - make sure you pull over first.

HP was the reason surfers first started venturing into the Darling, camping at the base of the point for weeks on end then returning wide-eyed with stories about never-ending righthanders.

The original pioneers - such as Reg 'Captain' Barton, Ray ‘Porky’ Abrams, and Vic Thomas  - did their best on the blunderous equipment of the day, but with each new development: shortboards, twin fins, Thrusters, boards got faster and opened up new sections of the HP lineup.

Starting from the bottom is Fingerbone, a playful section best suited to kids and beginners, though it also offers an easy spot to get in and out on big days. After that is the Captains Table, which was for years the most popular section of the wave and is still the longboarders favourite. 

The Table is split up into two smaller sections which can easily be connected into one longer wave: The Kick is the furthest outside section, while Gunners is about 100m down and roughly begins at the last bend in the coast before Fingerbone begins.

100 metres outside of Captains Table is Bluegrass, which can sometimes be ridden as a lone section but more often it’s the tail end of Andersons. Andos is a sight to behold at six feet, and something else again at ten. It’s the most dependable section of the point and also has good wind protection. If it’s breaking, expect a crew on it.

After three decades of commitment, Jeremy Jones knows all the intricacies of the HP lineup. When Ando's goes overhead you can expect he'll get his share (Tyson Moore)

The section outside of Andersons - though they rarely link up - is Turpentine or simply Turps. On a classic day, the Turps takeoff and barrel section is a wonder of the surfing world, though the variables have to align for it to be good. The keyhole below the last stand of trees makes for easy access to Turps and all the outside sections.

The last section, which sits below the cliff, and dangerously close to it, used to be called Whodares but is now more commonly known as The Tank. The Tank presents an awesome challenge for those who are willing to accept it.

Though it’s rare, a ride from The Tank to Fingerbone is over 1.2 kms and will result in rubber legs - and also bragging rights at the campground. Hunters Point will break on any swell from pure south to northeast though it’s generally best on pure east. Winds out of the western quadrant are good, with the inside sections handling the prevailing southerly wind better.

Camping used to be $1 a night at the paddock closest to Fingerbone. These days you’ll pay $5 but have the luxury of a warm shower and a compost longdrop. Book before holiday periods.

Late summer Gunners and a surfer looks to chance it between sets. Safer access options can be found at Fingerbone and Turpentine (Greg Muirhead)

Six Mile Beach runs north of HP and has average beachbreaks, generally only surfed during small swells when the point isn’t breaking. Mia Mia is at the far end of the beach and used to be the last secret spot on the Darling, mainly owing to the long beach drive or equally long walk in from the road. These days there’s an access road that’ll deliver you to within a leisurely stroll of the wave. Though it’s a sand over reef setup, very typical of the Darling Coast, on a pure south swell up to six feet Mia Mia breaks more like a pointbreak. Winds out of the northern quadrant are best making it a great summer time wave.

The road reconnects with the coast at Bongabil, conveniently close to a trio of waves, all patchy reefs. Orana is the best of them and often holds the sand well. It’ll also hold a surprising amount of size - up to eight feet if conditions are right. Greenpatch and The Hook are both to the north and seem to lose their sand more often. All can be checked from the lookout above Orana. Once again, south to south-east swells are best with west winds.

Often overlooked in favour of locations further south, the Bongabil reefs can be worth a short detour. Orana looking more than worthwhile (Benny Maryem)

Another five kilometres on the road connects with the highway at Bow Head, which marks the end of the Darling Coast. Bow is a good place to refuel or restock supplies for an extended stay in the Darling. Facing north, the Bow Tavern is one of the East Coast’s best watering holes and a cool afternoon beer on the verandah is a must-do. Even better on a hot day after pumping waves.