The top ten stories of 2017

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Dispatch

Well, we're at the arse end of 2017 and it's time to reflect on the surfing year that was.

I don't know about you guys, but it seemed like the surfing world had a quiet year. When I look back I see no milestone swells, no #Muzzaswell, black nor-easter, or cyclone carnage, and nor were there any celebrity deaths or drug scandals to sate the salacious side of our psyche, while the only 'new' wave that was discovered may as well be a CGI apparition because even ten months later we're still none the wiser on its location.

As usual the pro surfers were out there doing their thing, you probably saw it on the webcasts which is why you read very little of it on Swellnet. Why indeed when the rest of the surfing spectrum, the full gamut of colour and form, happens away from the webcasts.

These were the top ten stories on Swellnet this year, some of them ranked because of the traffic, but mostly because they gave us a laugh or they were stories we enjoyed telling:

Mystery revealed: Why that Japanese surfer was six kms out to sea

A week after a Japanese surfer is recued six kilometres off Wollongong he's found camping under an overhang at a local pointbreak. Toru comes clean on his ordeal, which was more a self-imposed commune with nature than misadventure.

"I paddled out late. It was going to be a full moon that night. I stayed out to watch the moon rise and then the wind died off and it was still. Very, very nice...”

Even with a hefty dose of plagiarism (hello Pedestrian, Junkee, and the ABC) it was Swellnet's most visited story for the year.


Tuesday with Richo

Evergreen Terry Richardson turns up at Swellnet's South Coast office for strong coffee and a rolling conversation.

Richo is now 62, he's still competing and still wearing the same webbed gloves he wore to victory at the World Masters in 1997. He's getting back into shaping and splitting his energy between modern shortboards and the old classics: twins, bonzers, and various channel bottoms.


 

Dad takes photo of ten-year-old son surfing over Great White shark

A shark story down at number 3? Clearly the hysteria was dying down in 2017.

If Trump didn't become president in January we might never have heard the term 'fake news' and we might be more willing to believe what we see. But Don is Prez and everything is up for scrutiny, including this photo of Eden Hasson surfing over the top of a shark. Admittedly it's ambiguous but Eden's Dad Chris, who also took the photo, jumped on board and weighed into the comments. He also had other guys vouching for it.

Three fins before the Thruster

Did you know Simon Anderson wasn't the only person riding a three-finned board at the '81 Bells? Did you know the first three-finned board was made in 1965? Brewer, Abellira, Aipa, McTavish, Hyman, Townend all had a crack at three fin boards.

For fifteen years they all swam in the same waters but it was Big Simon who cracked the code: three fins of equal size shaped in a triangle.

Swellnet explores those pre-Thruster designs.
 

Ain't no wave pool

On Valentines Day this year Mick Fanning dropped the most outrageous surf clip of 2017. Filmed 'somewhere' it set off the biggest online hunt since Pokemon Go and the location was expected to be blown wide open within days, hours even.

"I'll see you there in a couple of years Mick. Me and 8000 other fuckwits," was a typical refrain.

Ten months later the surfing world is still none the wiser.

Soaring and exploring with Steve Cohen

By the time he was 16, Steve Cohen had discovered Cape Solander and Aussie Pipe, and by the time he turned 20 he'd quit surfing altogether.

Steve then took to the sky virtually pioneering the sport of hang gliding. As he put it, “I put the board away and I went surfing in three dimensions”.

Enjoy this long form read with one of surfing's unsung pioneers.

 

 

Flying too close to the sun: The ascent

Josh Dowling was a high functioning craftsman when he needed to scratch that itch - literally.

Josh mainly worked with epoxy resins - he was Firewire's first shaper before striking out on his own - and the extended exposure to epoxy began playing havoc with his body.

This story was published in two parts, following it was 'The Descent'.

The good news is that Josh is again shaping.

Western and South Australia's stellar run of swell

Waves, hey? No coasts recorded any almighty swells in 2017 but West Oz and South Oz had an autumn season for the ages.

From the Margs Pro in March until June each state - in fact each coast in each state - pumped like a silly bugger.

There was, as always, a reason for this anomaly and the Swellnet brains put on their nerd shirts and deduced why. In short, it was all due to SAM, but you'll have to click to find out who or what SAM is.
 

The rebirth of pro surfing

It was this day two years ago that Kelly Slater unveiled his wave pool to the world. Do you remember? One day after Adriano De Souza claims an improbable world title, Slater receives all the attention.

In recent years he's had little competitive success but Kelly Slater is still shaping pro surfing in his image, and this will go on for many years yet given the success of the Future Classic wave pool contest in September.

It was a story that had everything: surfers playing God; the promise of industry revival; renewed interest in the sport (or the death of it); profound questions of philosophy all around, and it hasn't ended yet. Not even close.

 

Steve Cooney: "I remember it very clearly!"

Of all the surf world's discoveries, Uluwatu is the most storied simply by virtue of having Albe Falzon on hand to capture it as centrepiece for Morning Of The Earth.

However, what hasn't been told before is that Rusty Miller wasn't there for the first session and that 14-year-old Steve Cooney rode it alone.

In this interview with blindboy, Steve recalls not just the first session but the very first wave.

 

Comments

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 11:54am

Steve Cooney takes it easily.

14 years old !!!! First person surfing an exotic world class wave in a mystical foreign land.....alone.

That's worth 2000 wavepools.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 11:56am

You know I've quoted you somewhere in the text above?

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 12:13pm

My greatest work !

PS Shared a few waves with Pete the pilot the other day. He's got the life.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 12:13pm

And you didn't even need paragraphs.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 12:21pm

Holy shit - I've been on Swellnet 5 years now !

Imagine 5 years without paragraphs. That advice was the gift that keeps on giving.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 12:50pm

Sure has. Nice fella too.

Woof woof 41's picture
Woof woof 41's picture
Woof woof 41 Thursday, 21 Dec 2017 at 11:43am

Wait wait I know I know where micks wave is at its at............. Oh lol..

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 12:44pm

Steve was a great interview. Some people make it so easy. One big question though, no clue on this, so any suggestions welcome. Who was the first to surf Padang Padang?

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 12:47pm

Always thought it was Richard Harvey in '74, got washed down there on a big swell.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 12:56pm

Rings a bell Stu.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 1:45pm

RH paddled and walked Ulu to Kuta and found Padang .

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 4:56pm

Couldn’t afford Trrrrrransport

Phil Jarratt's picture
Phil Jarratt's picture
Phil Jarratt Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 6:03pm

It was Dick Harvey but not in '74. Possibly '75 but it was pretty much under wraps until '77.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 6:47pm

Thanks Phil.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 6:12pm

Nice work on keeping it under wraps.

Just flicked through an issue of an Indo surf mag and the George brother that edits it ( Matt or Sam ? ) is laying it on thick about an area of Bali that has been overlooked by the masses as an area to find any number of pumping secret spots.

For someone who fantasises about being the white knight of Indonesian surfing he's doing his best to deny future local surfers any chance of a decent wave to themselves.

Got to keep the gravy train rolling !

Anyway, back to topic....

davetherave's picture
davetherave's picture
davetherave Wednesday, 20 Dec 2017 at 10:01pm

Thanks Ben, Stu, Craig and all the other legends helping swellnet. I really enjoyed the forum where all the surf yarns were spun. Lots of courage shown by the crew and I may not be as mad as first thought, but then again!! Get a donation contribution thing set up boys so I can spin you some cash four times a year. I still have a 9'1 McTavish and a 7'6 Phil Myers plus three Booger's in the shed so I may be delusional but always open to miracles. May you all have a wonderful festive season and a truly fulfilling 2018. Happy surfing.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 21 Dec 2017 at 1:58pm

It's been a pleasure Dave.

Peace, love, and hell swell to you too.

radiationrules's picture
radiationrules's picture
radiationrules Thursday, 21 Dec 2017 at 10:14am

echo DTR - I'd add that you've developed a wonderful turn of phrase this year Stu - I've involuntarily laughed cereal & milk on to my laptop to start the day more than once this year - those pithy sentences & quality investigative journalism have added to my idealised surfing experience. many thanks to you and all at swellnet - have a peaceful break.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 21 Dec 2017 at 1:59pm

Straight backatcha RR. Always appreciate your feedback.

Hope you get some waves.

50young's picture
50young's picture
50young Thursday, 21 Dec 2017 at 2:13pm

Merry Christmas to all the Swellnet crew, may all get waves and good vibes

spencie's picture
spencie's picture
spencie Friday, 22 Dec 2017 at 6:46pm

Are you still insisting that Mick Fanning's "secret" right sandbank hasn't been discovered by all the other readers out there? Took me about 30 seconds to work it out. I just cryptically suggested that it was "so close to Brisbane." Still won't elaborate due to the potential for hordes to invade, but the right conditions for it to work are pretty rare (at that size anyway). And the banks have to be just right, although they are fairly consistent. There must be plenty of other surfers who have been to this spot. There's a reasonably well known point just around from it and it is semi consistent. A surfer was attacked and killed by a shark there many years ago. A couple of old mates were there when it happened.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 22 Dec 2017 at 7:34pm

It's not 'that' wave. For one, it was filmed not long after J'Bay owing to the bandage on his heel and there weren't any swells of size that'd make that wave fire in that time frame. There are many othe clues to but we've been over them plenty of times.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Friday, 22 Dec 2017 at 8:01pm

Spencie....Really mate? ...enough said.