Rather than the traditional X-Y line graph that can only chart one swell at a time, the Directional Spectra is a 360 degree screen that registers every swell in the water by its direction, its energy, and its period. This represents a significant leap forward. Whereas the line graph could only plot the most dominant swell in the water, the Directional Spectra chronicles multiple swells.
Tim Bonython is the king of the phantom forecast chart, a passionate publisher of the 144 hour apparition. At the merest gathering of isobars Tim excitedly posts the swell models, his exhilaration betrayed by enthusiastic babble and WANTON USE OF CAPITAL LETTERS. When he's in full flight Tim's excitement makes Big Kev look like a dullard.
The swell from Evan was a true cyclone swell, one that was generated in the core of a severe, slow moving tropical cyclone, and yet it was nothing like a classic cyclone swell. The reason Evan won't be remembered that way is because it formed in isolation. Despite spending a week in the far reaches of our swell window and wreaking havoc on Samoa and Fiji, Evan lacked the associated weather features required to create classic cyclone swell conditions.
The Quiksilver Pro New York is currently two days into its waiting period without a single wave being ridden. The organisers have called laydays knowing that Hurricane Katia, which is currently moving north-west between Bermuda and the Caribbean, will provide surf in the coming days.
First of all, Hurricane Irene tore up the US East Coast causing death and destruction all the way. Although it had been downgraded to a tropical storm as it passed NY the associated deluge swamped the contest site at Long Beach.
I said it's gonna get bigger
A very strong S-SW swell will make landfall on day 6
OK, it's mythbusting time!
Last October various Australian weather forecasters predicted that there would be 15 tropical cyclones in our waters during summer. That's five more, or an increase of 50%, than an average year. Their predictions were based upon the formation of the la nina weather phenomena that affected eastern Australia during the summer. During la nina years warmer than average water pools off the east coast of Australia providing conditions conducive to tropical cyclone creation.
