Happiness and madness and phantom forecast charts

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Surfpolitik

Most of you will know him as Tim Bonython, filmmaker, creator of cult classics like Filthy Habits, the Gripping Stuff series, and more recently his self-proclaimed opus, Immersion.

However, those who are friends with Tim Bonython on Facebook know him as the king of the phantom forecast chart, passionate publisher of the 144 hour apparition. At the merest gathering of isobars Tim excitedly posts the swell models, his exhilaration betrayed by enthusiastic babble and WANTON USE OF CAPITAL LETTERS. When he's in full flight - that is, when a significant swell is registering somewhere near Australia – Tim's excitement makes Big Kev look like a dullard.

But he's not without his detractors. When Tim posts his phantom charts sober folk who know the reality of long range forecasts often pour cold water on his zeal. And usually they're right. Long range forecasts, especially those for the East Coast, can get wildly overcooked from even a few days out. So experience tells you to drop your expectations, and with them the wild excitement of seeing an incredible looking chart.

Such clear-headed measures might help avoid disappointment but I cant help thinking they also cause you to miss out on something special in surfing.

A short digression: A few years back some friends and I were on one of Indonesia's outer islands stalking a lonely stretch of coast. Coming up to a bluff we looked down to see a mesmerising sight; a set of six foot waves grinding perfectly down a reef for over 200 metres. How many waves were in the set – five, six? More...? And they all broke in synchronicity, each wave following the whitewater trail of the wave before it. There was no wind and no-one out.

The next ten minutes were madness. Sheer cuckoo lunacy. We scrambled down the cliff hooping and hollering, looking each other in the eyes like we'd found our own Santosha. It was surreal – super real. It was the very essence of surf travel and we weren't even wet.

I remember briefly detaching myself from the moment and thinking this isn't quite what it seems, but then giving myself over to the craziness again. Someone put their wetsuit on backwards in the rush, I cut my feet sprinting over the reef to get out first.

The reality in the water was altogether different. The waves were perfect, no doubt about it, but they were also powering down the reef in a way that offered no clean entry and breaking at a speed that allowed no escape. We stayed out for an hour but the furthest anyone rode one was twenty metres before they were swallowed by the foamball. It was a lost cause, we gave up and paddled back to shore disheartened and deflated.

But did the disappointment of the session make our earlier emotions any less authentic? Were those ten minutes of pure and utter joy, when we felt as dizzy as kings, tainted by the subsequent reality?

Nah. I can still recall that feeling I had on the bluff all those years ago. It's the same feeling I get when looking at crazy swell charts; a huge rush of blood followed by tunnel vision of what the coming days may bring. Work stops, family drops, and the anticipation builds and builds. Pure madness and joy.

Sometimes you've gotta give yourself over to it.

Comments

things-that-make-you-go-yewwww's picture
things-that-make-you-go-yewwww's picture
things-that-mak... Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 10:34am

Oh-no, it's happening again.........

Yeeeeeewwwwwwww.

heals's picture
heals's picture
heals Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 11:25am

Stunet,

It's a good argument you make, fun to read even, but my experience tells me cooler heads get the rewards.

Stay cool.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 11:37am

Have you seen Immersion, Heals? It's not as if Tim Bonython is missing out on any action. Quality waves from go to woah.

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 11:54am

924 Hectopastel just dropped on the 48 hour North Atlantic.
Seems dreams do come true. Already calls are being made for 100 foot at Nazarre. XXL all over it @

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151434126190619&set=a.407937280...

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 11:57am

Mullaghmore comp is gonna run too I think. Waves everywhere!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 11:58am

Yeah Mick, but that storm is way to quick and aims most of its energy between Greenland and the UK. Nowhere near 100ft.

P.s. why do you have your eyes concentrated over there when we've got red blobs popping up here, haha!

top-to-bottom-bells's picture
top-to-bottom-bells's picture
top-to-bottom-bells Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 11:59am

Not here there isn't.

rat-race's picture
rat-race's picture
rat-race Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 11:59am

Ha Ha. Love the post.
I remember having this exact same feeling the day the Pasha Bulka arrived on our shores. My mate and I threaded our way through Newcastles floating traffic and arrived at Hawks Nest that same afternoon. When we got there this is what we saw; https://dl.dropbox.com/u/18505077/Pasha%20weekend.jpg
Dead set, 6-8ft perfection. Maybe bigger... Not one soul out. We just started squealing like little school girls and hugging each other. People in the car park were quickly moving away and being sure not to make eye contact lest we bring the insanity to them.
Once we paddled out, the reality of actually surfing these monsters was a completely different story. My mate never actually made it out the back. He is a way better surfer that I so I was just lucky I think.
On one our attempts (of which there were many) to break through to the "safety zone", 1 freak wave reared its head in the distance... I was about 5-10m in front of my mate and paddling up vertical face of certain death... then the airdrop onto the flats behind the cresting wave... Still gives me goose bumps thinking about it. My mate was not so lucky... Recons the hold down was one of the worst of his life and he was sure he was gonna die.
Then, i had to catch one in... F*&K

So anyway, i completely resonate with the experience and the pleasure and pain that it brings.
:)
Peace.

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 12:03pm

Great photo too. Yeah Craig but they have purple blobs!

heals's picture
heals's picture
heals Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 12:04pm

Stunet,

You need to read Zorba the Greek. It explores the issues youve raised in the post i.e ways to approach the world, emotionally or reserved.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 12:12pm

@Rat Race,

The Pasha Baulker swell! I white knuckled it from Sydney with two mates on the Friday night. Horizontal rain, branches flying across the highway, the whole fire and brimstone, Old Testament shizzle getting thrown at us. Then, when we got to Buladelah, the wind swung, the clouds cleared and we could see the stars. The centre of the low must've been right near Hawks Nest at the time!

Surfed pumping waves for three straight days with bugger all people about. Had photos too but I lost my camera trying to cross a lake entrance (ooh, clues!) that was a bit deeper than I expected it to be. Lost my camera and phone to the saltwater. Sick swell but.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 12:20pm

It's one of my favourite books, Heals. When I was younger I guess I identified more with the young man, as I get older I wanna be more like Zorba. Anyone got a bouzouki? Let's dance...

trolleyboy's picture
trolleyboy's picture
trolleyboy Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 1:07pm

Great photo Rat Race!

shoredump's picture
shoredump's picture
shoredump Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 1:31pm

I'm having trouble getting back on the horse. Such betrayal from Freda has sent me to a dark and cold place - a place of measured logic. I need the spinning reality of a high quality swell to snap me back to where I once belonged. I need a really, really good day, or else I could be lost.

mitchvg's picture
mitchvg's picture
mitchvg Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 3:24pm

Haha about 2 minutes before this story was posted to facebook, I sent a fb msg to a friend. "Oi forecast is looking pretty shit for the beach
don't even know if I wanna go!
I might just wait and surf later in the week when shit calms down and a freaking SOLID pulse comes through
Could be a stay inside job this weekend"
Then when I realised what I had said... "Actually I might go solo real early, before high tide. Can't NOT go" haha.

I'm barring myself from chart/obs checking from now on...Need to sustain the froth!

rat-race's picture
rat-race's picture
rat-race Friday, 25 Jan 2013 at 3:31pm

Ya like that huh?
Well here are some more from that same trip.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pav8j9wf9jzj5il/RTggV6quQK
(Day 2 did a medial at the TC breakwall. 7 weeks out of the water. Devoed)