Frequent S'ly pulses, clean offshore each morning

Guy Dixon picture
Guy Dixon (Guy Dixon)

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Guy Dixon (issued Wednesday 11th May)

Best Days: Thursday, Friday and Saturday, Sunday morning swell magnets

Recap: 

Easterly trade-swell has been steadily fading over the past couple of days, with Tuesday offering options in the 2-3ft range, easing to very inconsistent 2ft by the afternoon. Today, the bigger sets are few and far between and are struggling to reach the 2ft mark.

On the plus side, conditions remained clean under a persistent northwesterly airflow.

This week (Thursday 12th - Friday 13th):

The long wave trough is steadily becoming more active over the region and frontal activity is becoming frequent as a result.

The first of multiple fronts moved to the south overnight steering two favourable fetches through our southern swell window. A westerly fetch exiting Bass Strait will cause southerly energy to build throughout this afternoon, providing sets in the 3ft+ range across south facing beaches, larger across the Hunter.

This westerly fetch has remained slow moving and should maintain good energy in the 3-4ft range into Thursday morning. However, a second pulse southerly groundswell generated by stronger, more distant southwesterly fetches at the base of this front will fill in during mid-morning, providing sets in the 3-5ft range, once again, larger across the Hunter.

Continued frontal activity of a very similar nature/structure will continue throughout the remainder of the week, providing frequent pulses, just under a day apart.

With the passage of each front, the sea-state will become more active, allowing for more effect swell generation.

The next system looks to move in a more zonal nature, with fetches displaying more of a west/southwesterly alignment. Nevertheless, these fetches look broad and strong. Mid-range energy from over eastern parts of Bass Strait should arrive at a similar time to the longer range energy with sets in the 3-5ft on Friday morning, larger across the Hunter.

Conditions are likely to remain clean and workable for the remainder of the week as west/northwesterly breezes persist, with only Friday afternoon showing a small chance of a light seabreeze.

This weekend (Saturday 14th - Sunday 15th):

A third, weaker front looks to move through late on Thursday night and into Friday morning, providing a pulse for Saturday morning. 

South facing beaches should pick up sets in the 3-4ft range, easing further into Sunday with options in the 2-3ft range generated by a small but very intense low, easing as it moves east across our southern swell window.

Saturday morning is looking clean under a northwesterly breeze, however an afternoon northeasterly looks to come up, having an impact on wave shape. Sunday on the other hand looks clean for most of the day, with offshore breezes winds dropping into the afternoon

Next week (Monday 16th onward):

Following a brief lull across the Southern Ocean, a modest front looks to move in a zonal motion with moderate intensity on Sunday, providing a small increase into Monday afternoon with sets building to around 2-3ft at south facing beaches.

The morning holds the best chance of a clean wave under a northwesterly breeze, becoming light northeasterly throughout the afternoon.

Further ahead, the fronts look to continue, although with a similar track and intensity to Monday’s pulse. Pulses of southerly swell look to fill in every couple of days with sets in the 2-3ft range.

Comments

Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23 Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 4:29pm

Just curious why your forecast graph is showing 2ft tomorrow, 3ft Friday and
1-2ft Saturday, but you're talking 3-5ft?

Clearly they can't both be correct!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 4:41pm

The graph is generated by computer models, we don't have any control over it.

Unfortunately, the WaveWatch model is underpredicting ocean swell heights from the south (which it frequently does), which in turn lowers the automatic "surf height" prediction.

There's not much we can do about this unfortunately, however Guy's written notes compensate somewhat.

savanovaovait's picture
savanovaovait's picture
savanovaovait Thursday, 12 May 2016 at 7:44am

It appears the Wave Watch model is overpredicting for the gong. Only smurf sized surf here:(

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 12 May 2016 at 8:13am

The Gong is generally one of the worst performing coasts under south swells. Only a handful of magnets pick up the size. You'll have to sniff around for something rideable.

Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23 Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 6:42pm

Ok thanks for that. I guess we'll find out who's right tomorrow!

alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1 Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 6:46pm

I wouldn't bother going. The computer generated models are always correct!!

mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 7:50pm

Nothing showing around my way as of dusk. This Autumn has been average at best. Handful of OK days 1 pumping day at the start of the season. Give us some fkn swell Huey

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 8:09pm

Nudging 3' at a noted S swell spot north of me on dark. 

And yep, an abysmal Autumn so far, probably the worst one I can remember.

mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 8:22pm

Would it be something linked to coming of the El Niño do you think Stu?
I'll be up hoping for a few wedges at my local on dawn but I'm not liking my chances. It was bigger this morning then what it was this arvo :(

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 8:27pm

I couldn't say what the overarching reason is. For the last few weeks the Long Wave Trough has been in a real bad position for us, sending all passing fronts SE toward Antartica. But what controls the Long Wave Trough...?

mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 8:41pm

That's above and beyond me. !

shoredump's picture
shoredump's picture
shoredump Thursday, 12 May 2016 at 6:32pm

I do. I just require one Swellnet surfboard, and I'll leave it permanently aimed at Cronulla Point for you

Anthony 01's picture
Anthony 01's picture
Anthony 01 Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 8:14pm

Any chance of some 4ft waves around cronulla on Sunday?? Notes say 2-3ft, is there any potential for the S swell to pulse a little earlier than expected? Only day off for the whole week :(

Guy Dixon's picture
Guy Dixon's picture
Guy Dixon Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 8:34pm

The latest model runs suggest 2-3ft on Sunday, this is actualy an upgrade from what they were saying this morning. The low looks a little broader but marginally weaker. Will keep an eye on it for you.

Anthony 01's picture
Anthony 01's picture
Anthony 01 Wednesday, 11 May 2016 at 8:42pm

Cheers, much appreciated

Anthony 01's picture
Anthony 01's picture
Anthony 01 Thursday, 12 May 2016 at 7:09pm

Any updates/changes?

Guy Dixon's picture
Guy Dixon's picture
Guy Dixon Friday, 13 May 2016 at 7:37am

Will have the updated forecast up this afternoon.

Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23 Thursday, 12 May 2016 at 2:56pm

What happened to the 3-5ft swell?????

Guy Dixon's picture
Guy Dixon's picture
Guy Dixon Friday, 13 May 2016 at 7:40am

Looks like the zonal west-east motion of the swell generating fetches have been a limiting factor this time around. Having a detailed look at the next few days and will have it up in this afternoons notes.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Friday, 13 May 2016 at 8:16am

I did a quick drive around this morning. Rare 2ft sets at the magnets. Most places closing out on the lower tide, but probably the odd good wave at a few spots. Good luck getting one!

gunther's picture
gunther's picture
gunther Thursday, 12 May 2016 at 4:34pm

strong lines but small in the hunter region

CJB's picture
CJB's picture
CJB Thursday, 12 May 2016 at 5:46pm

It looks like this one came in under the written forecast. Any hopes tomorrow will see an increase in swell?

mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner Thursday, 12 May 2016 at 6:46pm

Dawn saw a couple of 2 (generous) footers on the Sth coast. Kinda felt like it was picking up as I had to go to work but it seems to have gone again.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 13 May 2016 at 8:53am

God I hate south swells, and hate these tricky ones that spread back into us from those Bass Strait fetches. Don't give me another winter of south swell, bring back the east!!

James_Campbell's picture
James_Campbell's picture
James_Campbell Friday, 13 May 2016 at 9:29am

Absolutely wrong this report. Barely 1ft Wednesday arvo, yesterday and this morning! not sure what has gone wrong considering you were calling it 3-5ft.....

Guy Dixon's picture
Guy Dixon's picture
Guy Dixon Friday, 13 May 2016 at 9:41am

These swells that bend in from those Bass Strait fetches are super tricky, most other times they over perform. The swell is there but unfortunately it has not spread into us. Instead it's providing 3-5ft along the Mid-Corth Coast.

boxright's picture
boxright's picture
boxright Friday, 13 May 2016 at 10:13am

The reports have been spot on for Newcastle. Havent wanted for size all week. Surfed a mid north coast magnet wednesday afternoon and it was 5ft easy but semi onshore.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 13 May 2016 at 11:14am

These south swells are the trickiest systems to forecast for on the East Coast. Even just working out what's happening on a daily basis is tough as the coast responds in varying ways - some regions pick up the acute southerly energy well, others completely dip out.

What compounds the forecasting issue even more is that common assumptions - i.e. that our forecasting model regularly undercalls these kinds of south swells - are thrown out the window. Anything and everything can happen.

I'm not normally one to sit on the fence with my forecasts but under these patterns it's very hard to have confidence in a specific size range - some beaches will come bang on expectations and others will be completely the opposite.

Don't worry Guy, I've been there many, many times before - always good to hindcast these events as closely as possible but ultimately it's a very tricky outlook where there'll be no clear winners.

belly's picture
belly's picture
belly Friday, 13 May 2016 at 11:32am

Thu and Fri GFS have a smallish core low directly SSE of NZ - hopefully that provides a small reinforcing pulse better aligned for the south coast weekend warriors.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 13 May 2016 at 1:50pm

I just surfed a south swell magnet at 3 foot with ocassional 4 foot sets. Biggest waves I've had in weeks! A few places I thought would have waves were struggling under the pure southerly direction but the swell's there for those willing to put in a few kays.

img_9510.jpg

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 13 May 2016 at 2:38pm

Some nice lines pushing into the Cronulla Shire this arvo.