Plenty of small surf on the way; wind affected in some regions

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Monday 14th March)

Best Days: Plenty of waves most days, though Tues thru' Thurs will be wind affected away from the SE Qld points (OK conditions across the Mid North Coast though). Fun beachies with lighter winds on Fri and Sat, with a renewal of S'ly winds for Sun and small outer points. 

Recap: Building trade swell all weekend, reaching a peak this morning with solid 4-5ft surf at open beaches (a few bigger waves reported at some locations, but smaller on the points). Winds have been mainly E’ly, light to moderate Saturday and Monday but Sunday saw quite gusty conditions at some locations throughout the day (and plenty of rain too - over 100m recorded at some Tweed Coast locations!)

This week (Mar 15th - 18th)

We’re now on the backside of the current trade swell event, but the good news is that there’s plenty of fun surf to come. 

A temporary relaxation of the coastal ridge will turn about-face on Tuesday, with the ridge expected to strengthen about the SE Qld region and also Far Northern NSW. This will maintain fresh and gusty SE winds about many locations, so the points will offer the only workable options (brief periods of light SW winds are possible in a few selected locations early, such as Coolangatta).

The trades are still quite active in our swell window, though not quite as strong as what was seen over the weekend. We will see a temporary easing trend into Tuesday ahead of a lift into size throughout Wednesday. Tuesday morning should still manage 3ft sets at open SE Qld beaches (smaller surf south of Ballina), with a little less size possible into the afternoon, but we should see Wednesday rebuild up to 3ft, maybe even 3-4ft throughout the day (unlikely to be early morning though). Expect smaller waves across the points, and agin south of about Ballina or Yamba.

While this is going on, a broad trough is expected to develop across the Tasman Sea, and a high pressure system south of Tasmania will extend a firm ridge into Southern NSW. This high will remain slow moving for a couple of days, which will allow the trough to slowly envelop much of the Tasman Sea. 

However, wind strengths in our eastern swell window are expected to remain only moderate, so the swell potential from the east will diminish slowly through Thursday and Friday. Thursday should still see early 3ft sets at open beaches - probably across the broader SE Qld and Northern NSW region - before size falls a little into the afternoon and Friday

Elsewhere, the developing ridge across Southern NSW will be mainly aimed towards this region however we should see some sideband S/SE swell push up into Northern NSW, probably around Thursday. Sets of around 2-3ft+ are possible at south facing beaches, possibly a little more at locations across the Mid North Coast (up to about Coffs or Yamba). We should see this energy holding steady into Friday morning before easing throughout the day.

As for local winds, most days across SE Qld and Far Northern NSW will be affected by the ridge (i.e. fresh sou’easters), with light variable winds tending SE across the Mid North Coast. Friday should see the ridge relax sufficiently enough to all of for light variable winds and sea breezes in most locations. 

This weekend (Mar 19th - 20th)

The surf forecast for the weekend and beyond becomes quite tricky as there are several fetches expected to develop within our swell window(s). Each fetch will be favourably aligned, but generally at quite a distance from the coast. This means the resulting swells won’t be particularly powerful, and they’ll probably be of a similar size range. The end result will most likely be an extended period of peaky swell combos best suited to the open beaches.

Our most important swell window is to our east, and in general the outlook for this part of the world is quite positive. As the Tasman trough continues to develop, we’ll see a broad area of trades stretch back into the South Pacific, with a chance for a tropical depression to form south of Fiji later in the week. This should maintain inconsistent but fun 2-3ft surf across most open beaches through the weekend.

Prior to this, another fetch located closer to the mainland - south of New Caledonia from Tuesday onwards - is expected to slowly strengthen and veer anti-clockwise towards the weekend. This fetch will mainly favourite Southern NSW but Northern NSW should see some useful sideband energy from it over the weekend, again probably offering occasional sets in the 3ft range.

Note: the models aren’t picking up these swells very well right now, for reasons I’m not entirely sure. So the graphs are undercalling the weekend’s size.

Local winds look tricky for the weekend. A weak southerly change is expected to push across the NSW coast, reaching the Mid North Coast on Saturday afternoon. Northerly winds will precede it - across Northern NSW and SE Qld (most of Saturday) - but at this stage it doesn’t look like they’ll be too strong. 

At this stage it’s likely that the change will push north into remaining regions by Sunday morning, allowing fresh S/SE winds to develop in its wake but we’ll have to give the models a few days to sort themselves out.

Next week (Mar 21st onwards)

Plenty of surf for next week too. 

The ridge behind the weekend’s change looks like it’ll be quite broad (if not overly strong) which means we should see plenty of short-to-mid-range S/SE swell through the first half of the week. This will best be aimed towards Northern NSW though (and not SE Qld) and it’ll only be beneficial if local winds are favourable. 

Otherwise, we should still be seeing small long range E’ly swell throughout this time frame, extending from the broad trade flow developing north of New Zealand later this week. Right now I don’t think there’l be much more than inconsistent 3ft sets from it, but there’s always a chance that the models will upgrade the developing tropical system south of Fiji (around Friday) which could lead to an upgrade in future forecasts. Let’s keep an eye on it anyway. 

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 6:35pm

Anyone score over the weekend?

no-eye-deer's picture
no-eye-deer's picture
no-eye-deer Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 7:43pm

Not over the weekend, but I sure did this morning!

spookypt's picture
spookypt's picture
spookypt Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 6:39pm

I wish someone could remind the wind how to turn SW. Been as rare as a root round these parts.

mickseq's picture
mickseq's picture
mickseq Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 7:16pm

Good waves this morning on the goldy with less crowds! Hopefully tomorrow has similar conditions !

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 7:20pm

Not weekend,but todays swell was pretty decent up these parts.plenty of waves in each set,up to 4ft outer points,beachies windy.small sat/sun.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 7:36pm

that onshore flow has been pretty relentless all March, since Winston actually.

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 8:45pm

Sure did Ben thanks for the reports mate. Both days in your neck of the woods to!

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 9:53pm

WHEN WILL THE ONSHORES END?! OH, THE HUMANITY!!!!

Heffo78's picture
Heffo78's picture
Heffo78 Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 10:23pm

Triathlons, marathons and the road closures associated turned out to be a good thing in my neck of the woods. Quite constant reasonable sized and fairly consistent trade swells and only six bodys in the take of area for the sets on friday was very welcome indeed ( a quiet day usually sees 15 with 6 fighting for there share ) Seemed the tide effected conditions on Saturday for the better as it became higher. Noted this for a sunday session and watched the early crowd thin out not long after paddling out! The tide did its thing coditions improved. Needless to say i was happy with my observation and timing. All in all have to say scored as well as i think was possible all weekend!

Umunga's picture
Umunga's picture
Umunga Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 10:54pm

only a few options on the SC with this wind flow and most of them if your desperate
so a BIG NO unless you have forgotten what good clean waves look like !!

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Monday, 14 Mar 2016 at 10:59pm

so you see nothing from this Ben?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 15 Mar 2016 at 10:45am

Not really. There's too many local sources that are of much greater interest. This particular fetch is south of 40S, east of the dateline and not sufficiently strong enough to overcome the distance and shadowing problems (via New Zealand).

If all other swell windows were absent of any major swell systems, it'd maybe be worth keeping an eye on. It will probably generate a small, fleeting pulse at best to just a tiny percentage of the coast. And it probably won't be distinguishable beneath the other swell trains either.

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 15 Mar 2016 at 11:14am

Personally, I think this could be a semi savior for Sunny coast and north of there for late sat/sun..... Even a certain hard to get to beachy on the goldy north end may perform.... But as I stated earlier, North Island will screw it for southern regions...

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 15 Mar 2016 at 11:20am

There are two other easterly swell sources for the weekend (mentinoed in my notes), which are better aligned and closer to the region. So I don't think that this South Pac fetch is much of a "saviour". 

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Tuesday, 15 Mar 2016 at 12:35pm

I'm not super confident on one of those.

the chase's picture
the chase's picture
the chase Tuesday, 15 Mar 2016 at 1:06am

Chasing the rainbow. Your all over it like a rash SD hahaha. Anything off interest? I have Been flat out at work. surely some things is on the build from the top end.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 15 Mar 2016 at 10:47am

Fun surf on the Tweed this morning, clean 3ft+ sets and light S'ly winds. The sand has moved around a lot over the last few weeks but the swell was super peaky, lots of options across the beaches and points.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Tuesday, 15 Mar 2016 at 4:49pm

Small but shapely at Snapper this afternoon.



mickseq's picture
mickseq's picture
mickseq Tuesday, 15 Mar 2016 at 7:43pm

Good waves again on the goldy, few retirees out breaking their long boards!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 16 Mar 2016 at 8:21am

The swell's kicked a little this morning (a few hours earlier than expected). Burleigh is looking super tasty.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 16 Mar 2016 at 10:47am

Another 66mm of rain overnight on the Tweed Coast. And it's still coming down.

One thing that's been very apparent since moving here: the models struggle with rain totals. Frequently they'll call 10-20mm (for an entire day), but we end up seeing expotentially more than that in some areas. 

spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey's picture
spidermonkey Wednesday, 16 Mar 2016 at 4:09pm

Not wrong about that.I'm bewildered by the lack of accuracy with BOM rain forecasts. 8mm today, already We've had over 50mm.Rain associated with trade winds seems a particular problem to forecast.Trade swell's still giving up this way.hoping thurs/fri for some much awaited lighter winds

Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog's picture
Sheepdog Wednesday, 16 Mar 2016 at 10:51am

Some super interesting models being spat out for for the longer term.... Se of Fiji looks tatsy for next week.... And the low Don mentioned up north a while back and possible secondary low are hanging around like drying salami in a deli..

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Wednesday, 16 Mar 2016 at 1:26pm

I think I'd be heading to east coast Tassie!!! :)

I'm not confident Yvette (when she forms) will deliver any real swell for us.