Lots of south swell on tap for next week

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South East Queensland and Northern New South Wales Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 20th November)

Best Days: Mon thru' Sun: plenty of south swell for Northern NSW, but tiny in SE Qld away from the south swell magnets. Work around the winds and you'll do well (Tues/early Wed this pick at this stage).

Recap: Tiny waves and northerly winds in SE Qld both days. A small south swell has pushed into south facing beaches across Northern NSW but there’s been no real size or strength in it; sets of around 2ft with a few rideable options in sheltered northern corners.

This weekend (Saturday 21st - Sunday 22nd)

Southeast QLD: Saturday looks terrible - no new swell and freshening northerly winds.

A fresh S’ly change advancing along the NSW coast throughout Saturday is expected to nose across the border in the early evening, but current model guidance suggests it’ll stall near Moreton Island overnight and never really kick into gear across the Sunny Coast. 

As such, we’re looking at fresh S’ly tending SE winds on the Gold Coast early Sunday (maybe a brief SW’er at Cooly around dawn) but the Sunshine Coast may see lighter, more variable winds tending moderate E’ly during the day. In any case the northerly flow should be disrupted one way or the other. And that's a good thing.

Anyway, the fetch trailing the change looks pretty uninspiring for new swell development. The swell will initially have a lot of south its direction; it’ll slowly veer south-east during the day but no great size is expected - just a weak 1-2ft at the outer points building during the day, a little smaller at most beaches but bigger at times at exposed south swell magnets. 

Surf size from the south may be smaller on the Sunshine Coast due to the slightly less favourable fetch location and orientation. In fact, here we may also see an equally small level of E/NE swell from the tail end of a reasonable trade flow through the Coral Sea, feeding into a trough in the far northern waters (well outside of our swell window). 

So, Sunday is the pick but it’ll either be small peaky beachies on the Sunny Coast, or small outer points on the Goldy. Nothing to get too worked up about.

Northern NSW: With very little swell in the water on Saturday, the advancing change makes it hard to get excited about surf prospects. The southerly should reach Port Mac around dawn, Coffs mid-morning, Yamba around lunchtime and then Ballina/Byron mid-late afternoon.

Freshening N/NW winds ahead off the change should become light and variable for a period just before the southerly pushes through, but either way it’s hardly worth working around. And the fetch trailing the change doesn’t look like it’ll generate any useful swell - given the accompanying winds - at all. 

Sunday will then see an early peak in short range S/SE tending SE swell, up to 2-3ft+ at exposed south facing beaches in the North but smaller in the south, and easing during the day. Wave heights will be smaller at beaches will less southerly exposure, so unless you can dial into a semi-exposed point (where it’ll only be small anyway) the best you can aim for will be a bumpy beach break.

Next week (Monday 23rd onwards)

We’re looking at an excellent winteresque frontal pattern through the Southern Ocean and lower Tasman Sea from this weekend, through much of next week. Bear witness to Craig’s very positive outlook for Victorian waters (cheap flights anyone?).

This progression will steer itself through our far southern swell window, but the orientation isn’t quite as good as earlier model runs had anticipated. Essentially, the storm track now looks like it’ll be a smidge more westerly (zonal), which is less favourable for swell generation for our neck of the woods.

Still, we will see back-to-back south swells throughout this period, averaging around one pulse per day from Monday thru’ Thursday, and possibly a final pulse later Friday or Saturday, holding into Sunday. And the persistently long wavelengths should override some of the concerns regarding small swell heights. These swells will mainly favour exposed south facing beaches in Northern NSW, as they’ll generally track straight on past the SE Qld region - unless you can dial into one or two of the regional south swell magnets.

Size wise, we’re looking at set waves hovering in and around the 3-4ft+ mark at the height of the first round (later Mon/Tues, and again Fri/Sat/Sun), with slightly smaller pulses through the mid-week energy. And keep in mind that beaches not open to the south will be considerably smaller.

The key to scoring good waves during this period will be to work around the winds. The first swell on Monday probably won’t be quite into the Far Northern NSW region early morning; this will be a lunchtime or early afternoon arrival, so with freshening northerlies due on Monday you may wish to aim for another day if you can’t find a sheltered northern corner as they crop up.

But the Mid North Coast should see the swell in the water through the morning and with early light winds it'll be worth capitalising on.

A weak coastal trough will then pad out Tuesday - this is the pick of the forecast period for me right now - resulting in light variable winds. They’ll continue through Wednesday before freshening northerlies kick in during the afternoon and through Thursday

Another advancing trough may deliver a southerly change for Friday but that’s a ways off yet. 

Anyway, the long and short is that there’s plenty of south swell due from Monday right through until next Sunday - almost a week of of persistent energy from the southern quadrant. Well worth working around your favourite south swell magnets throughout this period.

Have a great weekend.. see you Monday.

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 20 Nov 2015 at 5:28pm

Still a few two footers at Coffs.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 21 Nov 2015 at 4:22pm

The southerly change hit Evans Head at 10:45am, but seems to have stalled and still hasn't reached Cape Byron yet (almost six hours later...). I can see a band of cloud indicating the change near Byron (from my house on the Tweed Coast) but gee I wish it'd bloody hurry up!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 21 Nov 2015 at 4:44pm

Arrived Ballina on schedule

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Saturday, 21 Nov 2015 at 5:48pm

Arrived on the mid Tweed coast around 5:25pm, gusting 25kts.

Gary G's picture
Gary G's picture
Gary G Sunday, 22 Nov 2015 at 11:36am

Hurricane Gary arrived at schoolies right on schedule Ben.

I can give you an on the ground report - consistent sets, of 15 bicep curls each. Loads of lumps on the horizon, coming from all directions but always Garyvitatating in my direction.

mcsc's picture
mcsc's picture
mcsc Sunday, 22 Nov 2015 at 7:47pm

Some unexpected fun small peaks around this afternoon ...

Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85's picture
Cylinders85 Sunday, 22 Nov 2015 at 8:18pm

The east swell window looks to be starting to show some interest. :)

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 23 Nov 2015 at 2:24pm

Still holding around the 3ft mark at Coffs. No sign of any major kick (yet). Buoy data to the south is encouraging though.

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Monday, 23 Nov 2015 at 4:47pm

I get pain sensation in the back of my thigh every time you post pictures of that spot Ben.

In the 90's, when I lived down there, I lost my foot off the back of a board coming off the top of a vertical backhand snap on a steep wave in shallow water at that spot and managed to come down with the board between my legs (just missed the crown jewels on the tail) but coped a fin in the back of my right thigh. I was wearing a wetsuit too, hate to think how bad the injury would have been if the wetty hadn't stopped some of the penetration. Took 7 or 8 stitches to pull it back together, and several weeks out of the water. As you'd suspect, it got infected too due to that surfing location.

Since leaving the area, I think I've surfed there maybe only 3 times. I don't travel through during this season much though.

roubydouby's picture
roubydouby's picture
roubydouby Monday, 23 Nov 2015 at 5:34pm

Brutal memory wingnut! Since moving to coffs 18 months ago it's fast become my fave wave in the area. Youll be glad to hear the poo pipe has been removed, so no more infections. The old boys all reckon the banks are shit (ironic pun) nowadays without it, and maybe they're right, but they are pretty good at present.
The old poo pipe spot is now the best rock jump platform for when it's bigger. Safe as houses and keeps the hair dry!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 23 Nov 2015 at 3:33pm

Can't see anything but S swell getting torn to shreds by northerlies this week.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 23 Nov 2015 at 3:38pm

Wednesday morning looks to be a decent window.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 23 Nov 2015 at 3:51pm

Maybe down there, I don't think the northerly flow will be disrupted enough up here to enable anything but super protected backbeaches ....and those spots mostly hate long period S swell.

wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443's picture
wingnut2443 Monday, 23 Nov 2015 at 4:39pm

So your saying we shouldn't all be down to surf there FR76? I'm heading down in the morning to "try" for something offshore.