Words and photos by Luke Greaves

Our session was almost over before it had even begun. The bay we’d be launching from had huge sets breaking across it compared to the day before. As I rushed around gathering my equipment I heard the boys yelling "Ohhhhhhh...!"

Looking up I saw a boat which had just headed out literally being dragged by a wave sideways just like it was surfing. I could’ve sworn it was going to tip! We knew if they did tip our expedition would turn into a rescue mission, so we held our breath as we watched it being dragged like a rag doll by the swell. By the time I pulled out my camera the sets had subsided but I thought I would still get a shot of them going over a little wave to remember the experience.

The crew made the right decision and came straight back to the ramp where we’d watched them launch only a few minutes earlier. The boys helped them get back in while I fumbled around the car gathering my camera gear, and once I got my act together we were off.

The offshore wave is an un-paddleable left slab, very uncommon in South Australia, and only surfable a couple of times a year due to needing the perfect direction, size, and period of swell.

Andrew Blanchard (AB) and Jeff Schmucker have been surfing it for years, while Aaron Johnston was keen to give it a go for the first time. The outside reef is in fairly deep water yet the peak is a big platform of shallow rock with a few steps preventing paddle surfing. Unless it’s big it pinches off too quickly so it’s important to make sure you pick the right waves. Ten foot is the preferable size but the odd sneaky smaller ones still open up at times.

Jeff was the first one out - there’s no wasting time with him I’ve learnt - and snagged a couple of bombs. He managed to score the biggest wave of the morning, but I missed the shot trying not to die…sorry Jeff.

The veteran AB was next and hooked into some sick barrels. He’d wished it was bigger - these guys are awesome.

Then Aaron gave it a crack and nailed it, giving me the shot I was looking for. The boys took turns again but the swell had dropped slightly within an hour or so, the window at this spot is very narrow, but incredibly rewarding if it actually comes together.

Overall there were some serious beatdowns but all managed to escape unscathed and I was stoked to get a couple of shots each for the boys. I’m definitely looking forward to more adventures in Southern Australia this winter!

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