Clyde Aikau’s pale blue steed
Of all the noble steeds to be trotted out of the shed for last week’s Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational it was pretty damn hard to overlook the regal-looking pale blue single fin under the arm of Clyde Aikau.
Even from the comfort of the couch watching the spectacle on TV from far away, it wasn’t hard to be swept away by its beauty, girth and above all, its stringer.
The thing simply radiated energy and the fact it was under the arm of a 66-year-old gent about to paddle out into macking Waimea in honour of his late brother just added to its mystique.
Later in the day, Clyde busted out another red gem that looked equally comfortable under foot and made even more remarkable by the fact neither were his.
You see, just prior the Eddie that didn’t go, Clyde found himself short a couple shooters and with time running out, he put in a call to the one man he knew would have what he was looking for, North Shore shaping royalty, Chuck Andrus.
“He called me out of the blue, like he does from time to time, and asked if I had anything that’d do the job,” Andrus recalled.
“My mind went straight to a board I’d shaped for Ricardo Polmar (the blue one) and another I’d ridden a lot out of Phantoms (the red one) but had actually retired.”
For the tech minded, the measurements of Polmar’s board are quite impressive, 11’8” x 22.5” wide x a hefty four inches thick (handshaped out of a five inch US Foam “Big Guy Gun” blank).
Underside, Andrus says the layout owes a lot to the design aspects dialed in during the 70’s.
“It has a subtle vee in the tail and a flat football shaped spot in the front for your acceleration and a slight vee in the nose to break away the water,” he says.
“The rocker is pretty moderate, nothing too extreme, so it’s pretty much your classic big wave gun that we’ve been shaping for years.”
Glass wise, Andrus says it was wrapped in seven ounce top and bottom with an additional “double six’’ patch on the deck and looped glass rovings for the leggie.
As for that stringer, Andrus requested two half inch bass wood stringers running at opposing grain to distribute stress and any potential weak spots.
The second board Clyde rode was a pretty standard thrusters set up, while Polmar’s was a single fin.
“Clyde’s pretty much always been a single fin guy,” Andrus says.
“But he got to ride both boards the day after they called The Eddie off and he got some beautiful waves on them, so I was pretty confident he’d cope with both set ups.”
As for the day itself, Andrus says he mostly busy working as a spotter for event organisers but the gravity of the situation was not lost on him.
“It was a pretty historic moment really; here’s one of the great surfers at Waimea Bay having his last hoorah honoring his late brother,” Andrus recalled. //ANTHONY PANCIA
PS: Wanna find out more about Chuck?
Comments
Watched the whole Eddie! i grew up with Howard Ross Clarke-Jones & thought he deserved to win it! he went hard from the start to finish & caught two of the best waves in the Contest! 96/100 on one!Clyde was amazing @ 66yrs old there is know way I'll be padding out in anything over 6ft! What an awesome spectacle The Eddie was! Congrats to John John & R.I.P. Brock Little a true legend!
These are the kind of articles that keep bringing me back to Swellnet, the back stories of the people behind the people. The ones that go quietly about their business and quite often without a website like this, their stories would remain untold. Cheers.
Seconded Zen, there's always something of interest that goes deeper or wider on this site and is well-written to boot.
Well said Zen, same same.
Turns out Clyde was surfing with a serious shoulder injury during his second heat, sustained duting a wipeout in the first heat.
From Paul Taublieb: "I just spoke to uncle clyde - turned out he totally tore his shoulder's rotator cuff on the first wipeout and was on pure guts, pain and inspiration (and some medical help) when he went back out for second heat and caught a couple of bombs."
And if it wasn't for the injury 66-year-old Cyde reckons he was in there with a chance, adding, "Man, if that didn't happen...oh well, john john caught a break."
Great stuff … geez might have to get some of that 'medical help' or inspiration - magic.
Agree with Zen these stories are what makes good reading … keep this up, gents.
A great interview with Clyde talking about the Eddie and the boards. Worth a watch:
Love that interview. What an absolute legend. It's a lifelong goal of mine to be still fit enough to surf in my 70s. Blows my mind that Clyde Aikau is paddling into, what can only be described as fucking massive surf, at 66.
And the whole deal still means so much to the bloke. Unreal.
Good news article about a couple of good eggs by a good journalist. He should be working for you guys. or the ABC. Or both. More.
So inspiring...
That video on Chuck doesn't have sound after the start, am I the only one striking this problem?
So many good shapers on the North Shore that we don't even hear about, nurtured by whole different culture to what we have here.
Ricardo Polmar, is he Philip's brother? Now those blokes would have some interesting stories, why don't you track them down?
Philip or Felipe?
Probably Felipe.
Well if it is Felipe Pomar you're referring to - 1965 World Champ, only person to have surfed a tsunami, health nut who still charges Hawaii at 72-years-old - then I'm speaking to him this arvo.
Stay tuned...
No chuck sound for me either
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Chuck sound kicks in around 1:50 for me.
Not only is Clyde 66 years old and surfing massive Waimea, but he surfed the Eddie with a torn rotator cuff in his shoulder, after wiping out on his first wave.
http://www.hawaiinewsnow.com/story/31348033/eddie-went-but-so-did-uncle-...