Latest Surf Session
havnt surfed since last sunday at dickies beach was just starting to pick up when i was leaving.im getting edgy like a drug addict bring on sunday and monday
Over in Indo at the moment.
Had some sick little 3ft+ waves at Keramas the past few days, light offshore and just peeling across the beach.
Trekked it over to Balian this morning and rocked up to see some sick waves lining up, 4-5ft lefts and rights running for a good 100m.
Sure beats shitty onshore's that i've had at home the last month or so.
Surfed Avoca Point this morning, solid 3-5ft with some bigger 6-7ft wash sets coming through every 20 mins or so, solid crew out there to watch today including adrian buchan and drew courtney.
Well it's been a while since my last session, anyways here it is, Barri N/W West Aus. A mate was taking snaps from the beach.
Not to good of a quality photo but nevertheless you can see me meeting my fate way too deep on an infamous Jacques' left.
had a fun 3-4ft straight close outs, was better then 1ft nothing!
A couple from yesterday arvo. Swell was pulsing through and rather dangerous.
Had some good waves south of the border this last week (not saying where) but tiny crowds compared to the Snapper zoo
Did a bit of highway surfing yesterday looking for waves. Stood in plenty of carparks weighing up the situation but mostly it was too windy or too crowded or both.
Ended up surfing a reefbreak north of Wollongong that was better than it looked from front on. Standing in the carpark it looked like the southerly had rendered it unrideable with barely a face to make out amongst the mini-maelstrom. What you couldn't see were the lips that defied the wind and lurched and pitched much further in profile. Took a chance and sat out there for an hour dodging the closeouts and the nasty ones to be rewarded with half a dozen hollow runners.
Drove home chuffed.
Sunny Coast was pumpin friday & saturday.... after a long flat spell & toooo many northlies it was all time
Was down the coast as well on Saturday, a well known point north of the Gong. Consistent 4-5ft sets with the odd bigger bomb. Was best during the early to mid morning and was reeling along the ledge real nicely.
Got stupidly crowded for me and my mates second surf but still some fun ones.
Just went out along the Narra stretch and had a ball. Heavy sucky shories with a solid 4-5ft of swell still pushing through. All in all a great weekend of waves!
gunna shoreys... 1 foot, quite the party!
Avoca point looked good altho it was very populated and the only decent wave along the beach. Went home to Umina for some just rideable fun waves without the agro, drop ins and crowds. Good Times! Bring on the Southerly swells.
The left at Tom's Point today A frameish and fun tea coloured water and a dead seal up the beach added to the quality of the offshore SE for this spot
i haven't had a sesh for two or so weeks, it's gone kinda quite over in the west. Last sesh was pretty epic gillos, stopped at the bears on the way back, the south wester had kicked in, so it was a wasted trip down that fuckn track, had more size on it though, shoulda gone there first!
two surfs at Maroubs, South end. first, early on the dropping tide was fun. not too crowded for this part of Sydney i.e 30 crew at 7am.
second sesh early arve was a bit crowded but i managed to get a couple by myself.
i also scored two of the biggest poundings (over the falls, then over the inside bank before surfacing on the inside.. on two separate occasions!) i've had in a long time due to pulling back to avoid running over a wall of inside crew. scale of my poundings didn't quite match the waves. it wasn't that big.
The left at Tom's Point today A frameish and fun tea coloured water and a dead seal up the beach added to the quality of the offshore SE for this spot
By: "jaffa1949"
Hi jaffa. Haven't I met you before?
Possibly I've been around originally Dee Why, then Avalon and northern beaches, south oZ and then back to central coast at home at Forries(jaffa was my nickname on the central coast).......... now south of TOm's Point at almost Mexico.
Ancient latter day short haired surfer, more clues from you I'll see you and raise you two!
Evening ladies - First post yadda yadda - Green Island, Manyana...Ooo...emmmm.geeee
Possibly I've been around originally Dee Why, then Avalon and northern beaches, south oZ and then back to central coast at home at Forries(jaffa was my nickname on the central coast).......... now south of TOm's Point at almost Mexico.
Ancient latter day short haired surfer, more clues from you I'll see you and raise you two!
By: "jaffa1949"
Sorry mate. I'm being terrible. I meant somewhere else on the web. You seem to have kept your user name in the same family. Me, I went for a completely new persona. Bit of a bummer not having some emoticons to help convey meaning.
But, clue wise we're about the same age (well I'm older.)
gunna shoreys... 1 foot, quite the party!
By: "bag-full-of-hammers"
Mate, you should have been at Rye...it was crankin'
Went out at North Steyne last night and this morning with this morning offering the cleanest conditions. Swell was a solid 3-4ft last night and then 3ft this morning with left after left after left.
Back to the small stuff from now on until maybe early next week...
last week golfies and b_con pumping best waves in ages.
snapper this morning. who knew I had so many friends!!
Nice near the rock. ordinary near rainbow. extraordinarily bad past marley. lets not talk about greenmount.
oh, about 3 foot, maybe bigger on the sets but I get excited easily.
jaffa1949 wrote:
Possibly I've been around originally Dee Why, then Avalon and northern beaches, south oZ and then back to central coast at home at Forries(jaffa was my nickname on the central coast).......... now south of TOm's Point at almost Mexico.
Ancient latter day short haired surfer, more clues from you I'll see you and raise you two!
Sorry mate. I'm being terrible. I meant somewhere else on the web. You seem to have kept your user name in the same family. Me, I went for a completely new persona. Bit of a bummer not having some emoticons to help convey meaning.
But, clue wise we're about the same age (well I'm older.)
Did I mention Long Reef, Bombie, a favourite for old goofy footers, in my spare time I organise cruise ships to take surfers to New Zealand surf spots and because I'm a quiet retiring type who has trouble remembering multiple pin numbers etc, I keep within the memory range!. I note above too that the spear of destiny is approaching my surf spots and I hope to surf with him and you!
If you have pieced together who I am PM me on my other contribution sites.
Beyond the digression above I scored another great day at the local a high tider without the ubiquitous crowd mellow and longboardable, surfing over a least a thousand pie sized stingrays on the sandbar on every wave, high speed fleeing by them each time. Great fun!
Went out at North Steyne last night and this morning with this morning offering the cleanest conditions. Swell was a solid 3-4ft last night and then 3ft this morning with left after left after left.
Back to the small stuff from now on until maybe early next week...
By: "craig"
Did you wear your steamer again, Craig? haha
^^ Actually wore boardies and rashy last night only to have my boardies ripped in half down my right leg.
So back to the short arm 2mm this morning, haha
in chicago, usa until feb 19th.... ive been out of the water since november. nothing but snow and ice here.. im jealous
3ft Copa, fun but I'm still reliving in my mind the 10ft swell a couple of weeks ago.
cranking PM's on wednesday 6-8ft perfect hollow spitting heavy shacks.2 guys out no wind day of the summer so far
surfed wanda this afternoon... more a case of enjoying the warm water rather than the waves, as they were few and far between...
yesterday afternoon was much nicer - still a little bit of swell about.
Hey bookster, we must live in the same locale. I also "surf" at Wanda, OK, I do more wiping out than surfing (only been doing it a year), but it's my local beach anyway. Looking to get out there about 9am tomorrow - hoping to get 2ft and not too sucky. What are my chances??
Hey bookster, we must live in the same locale. I also "surf" at Wanda, OK, I do more wiping out than surfing (only been doing it a year), but it's my local beach anyway. Looking to get out there about 9am tomorrow - hoping to get 2ft and not too sucky. What are my chances??
By: "dolphinkaz"
Well, I thought that what swellnet is for :-P As long as the NE'er comes up later you'll be ok. As for it being 2 foot... well it was somewhat below that this arvo!
Had a fun surf at south Curly this morning. Inconsistent 3-5ft with a couple of larger bomb sets and a bit wobbly and peaky with the wedge's off the cliff. Clean and glassy for a couple of hours before the southerly wind started tearing into it.
Looks like the winds creating terrible conditions at the locations picking up the swell now..
did anyone see the lone surfer out greenmount around 7 this morning, trying to surf the onshore, low tide boat wake?
that was me.
at least it was uncrowded
Manly this morning, very disapointing after yesterdays swell. Had Curly yesterday afternoon at around 3ft. Was really fun!
Cronulla Point mid-arvo yesterday.
If mid-morning is the 'gentlemans hour' for surfing - after the eager before work crew have rushed off to earn their daily bread - then the mid-afternoon session deserves it's own name. The unemployed bong smokers hour? Sleep deprived shift workers hour? For me it wasn't either of those, but the just-can't-be-fucked-going-to-work-today hour.
Outside of boardriders comps I only bother with the Point when it's over four foot and low tide. It was just scraping that size yesterday, but at least the tide had bottomed out. The wind was S/SE but not strong enough to be shutting down the fun factory, so there was a few hollow ones on takeoff. Also was a good size and tide to push onto first reef and throw up a bit of wall rather than push wide, which it tends to do at more size.
Rode a 5'8" quad which has an unfortunate tendency to slip sideways in the pit. It can be handled if I keep my weight centred but mostly I just get creamed. Out on the face it redeems itself though, blazing around like nobodies business. Had a chat with Jungle Tim up on the Point when I got out and he reckons I should knock it down another two inches and fill it out another half an inch in width. Might just do that...
As I got out the eager after work crew were rocking up and putting the pressure on. I took that as a signal to go home and have a nap, which I promptly did.
A 5-fin bonzer will ease the pain Stu - can't believe you of all people haven't caught on yet!
^^ Sometimes I'm a bit slow to catch on to new trends Ryder, and Bonzer's have only been around for, what, 35 years?
What you where supposed to say Stu was "my new bonzer is curing and will be ready to hit up that new swell next week." You don't know what your missing mate.
^^ You got to tell us about what we're missing Ryder. Paint a picture! Or better yet, take one and let it tell a thousand words.
Big Left Monday morning, dawn until 9:00....
3-4 foot, a little cross shore, but only me and a mate out...good session and good coffee at Flinders Bakery afterwards..
Pity I had to come to work...
North Steyne early on Friday arvo. Four to occasional five foot with a light onshore barely ruffling the surface. Back riding a stock standard shorty after a few sessions riding a fish-quad thing. Took a while to get it dialled in. I kept getting up, all weight forward, pushing hard and lifting off the front foot only to bog rail.
Slowly the inclination to surf horizontally waned and I began to drop down rather than angle across as I paddled into 'em. Such a different way of surfing, I can see why pros would be reluctant to deviate too far off their competition boards - going back is difficult. A conscious effort has to be made.
Was an easy going crowd out there, a lot of travellers and hence not much competition. Around 4pm a few tradies came out and lifted the tempo so I bid farewell and returned home.
spent friday to sunday driving between scotts head and the qld border looking for waves.
friday had two incredible sessions of about 100 k's each, hardly any traffic, very light crosswind, incredible visibility. just an awesome day to be a driver.
the highway crowds came out on saturday so we stuck to the backroads where we couldn't do as many k's but managed to find a bit of solitude. it's true what they say - you can still get uncrowded sessions, you've just got to try that bit harder.
sunday we actually went for a walk and camp where we incidentally found a few waves. it was good to get back to the car and drive again though. sunday afternoon we joined the traffic heading north and thanked baby jeebus for steel and asphalt.
Hit up the early on Saturday morning at South Narra with my house mate. Scored inconsistent but super fun 3ft sets with clean and glassy conditions that went oily for a period during the morning.
First the lefts were pushing through real nicely but then some rights started to have good form as the tide changed. Got out after about 3 hours and before the sea breeze kicked up. Then had a little nanna nap and spent the late afternoon and evening enjoying the warm summer air at a Wedding.
Last night hit up 2ft of NE windswell at North Steyne. Me and one other guy on some fun peaky lefts. More so a cool of paddle but still worth the effort.
Yesterday morning at a south swell magnet close to my old home. Tide a wee bit high early, but an hour into the session and enough water was pushed off the ledge for it start breaking in the manner for which it is known. No wind, and the swell direction was spot on. To top it off the late rising sun halted many of the before work crew - not enough time between sun up and bundy on to make it worthwhile. Hence, the numbers were small and got even better as 9am drew near.
I moved away from the place about four months ago so it was good to catch up with the crew that were there. Fellas I hadn't seen since last swell, talking the sort of superficial but satisfying shit that you do in the water.
I'm about to move even further away from the place soon. Family commitments. In a couple of months it'll effectively be out of reach for me - just that bit too far to drive for morning sessions such as that. Got hit by a wave of melancholy when I was driving out.
Well I can't claim to have got as seriously barreled as Stu would have but the last few days have been productive of reasonable quality, relatively uncrowded beach breaks at a few locations around the northern beaches. Ironically the worst waves were the most crowded and the best, the least.
After an average couple of weeks in Vicco, well I had two fun days, one 4-5ft+ surf at 13th and small Winki after the day of competition ran there, I've had a couple of fun surfs at a south swell magnet across the Norther Beaches.
Below was Wednesday morning. Clean and relatively consistent 3-4ft sets with the odd bigger bomb during the morning. Crisp cool autumn morning with luke warm water :)
Twas a froth-tacular prospect yesterday morning for the local left with northerlies and a SE swell that was kicking like a mule with a strong tail-end pulse.
The sovereign debt/resource rent super tax was being discussed by Geraldine Doogue on Radio National. It was pissing down.
A blaze of green flashed across my peripheral vision and smashed into the corner of the windscreen, and then went cartwheeling in the air into the opposite gutter.
I hit the brakes and ran across the road, a scaly-breasted lorikeet was being swept down the gutter into the drain. I scooped the mass of feathers up and wrapped it in an old shirt.
It's eyes were open but it wasn't moving. I was almost overcome with grief and heavy heartedness as I lay the little parrot on the seat : I have alway loved birds and parrots in particular. To be responsible for the death of one was almost too much to bear. He let out a plaintive little squawk and tried to lift his head; that was a good sign. His neck wasn't broken.
I headed home to call the local wildlife rescue. My daughter was gentle and understanding: an injured animal can bring out the depths of compassion in the human heart. The little fellow squawked a bit more loudly and started to stir. He was reviving! I opened the shirt and he almost took my head off as he flew off in a raucous flash of colour and joyful noise, straight out the open door.
A flock of noisy rainbow lorikeets or the gentle pairing and swooping flight of Rosellas are the reason I could never live in Europe, where I found the architecture and history insufferably drab and sepulchrous. I'd rather parrots than all the romantic or Modern architecture of Barcelona, all the jazz clubs of Chicago, all the indie-folk rock bands of Brooklyn or any kind of human endeavour or cultural artifact.
Back to the surf mission. The left was slabbing on a shallow outside sandbar, raining, deserted and wobbly with too much swell. Hellfire and damnation, it sure was bigger than it looked, with nasty close-outs, random wedges and a dirty great rip scything through the line-up and dragging great plumes of sandy water out towards the South Pacific. I tried to calculate the mental anguish and loneliness of sitting right out there in the rain, next to a river-mouth in the hunt for a few left tubes.
Fcuk, fcuk, fcuk. I was hopping from foot to foot, wishing for a mini- ultra crowd to show up.
Maybe a desperate back-end pro with pimply filmer in tow to scan the line-up.
I abandoned the mission. Come back later, with the offshore went the self-justification. With people.
back home to read the Fin Review like a good, broke surf bum does, to keep abreast of investment opportunities.
Time passed pleasantly.
Suddenly the sun came out. I checked the BOM wind obs for Ballina.......fcuk, the wind swung WNW an hour ago. Damm you Huey.
I decided to paddle the river this time, on a SUP with the board as a passenger. As I launched I saw a heart wrenching sight. The River was full of sea-run mullet. With a full moon last night and a westerly wind, pressure change and heavy rain all acting in concert nothing could be more conducive to a full scale mullet run and associated feeding frenzy. I had a brief moment of hesitation and then launched. I paddled it in one hit at about a notch off a full sprint, with my eyes mostly closed and counting out the stokes in batches of fifty.
Climbed the wall and jogged out to the end. The surf was very similar, random wedges exploding along the bank line, which was way the fcuk out the back. The surf and rip running out to it was teeming with sea mullet. I mean couldn;t jam in another fish, walk across their back teeming.
No-one out.
Alway the same: a lank-haired scuzz bucket on an old bicycle trying to sell you heroin and a ripe stench from discarded bait bags and a rotting bag of drowned kittens washed up into the wall.
It was ominous.
Mutherfcuker.
You coulda got spat out of a barrell or you coulda got chomped by a bull shark before you'd even got out the back and bled to death on the beach while the local heroin addict rode back to the caravan park to call the chopper.
For the second time that day I turned tail and fled without a go-out.
Back across the river, without stopping.
The surf window was closing, I'd promised to take my daughter roller skating.
One last check.
A spot was barrelling off it's guts, like a good day at Off The Wall and the Le-Ba boys had it well stitched up. Ballina boys know how to get shacked.
It was sick.
Back home I noticed in the local rag that there was a film festival in the Bay : of Queer cinema.
Whilst I'm not a fan of the genre I thought it might make a good counterpoint to the general life and death manly ocean adventures of the day, a sort of cultural leavening to being part of the food chain.
But once again the QLD blood won out and we went to the R'ey and had a few schooners with the blue rinse set.
Burp.
I thought I would make a thread where you can post about your latest surf..
Haven't been out since the large south swell a week and a half ago.
Scored some fun 3-5ft waves on Tuesday and then had south Curly with only a handful on Wednesday morning.
Was a solid 5-6ft and then it started to pulse to 6-8ft and we were all drifting behind the cliffs towards Freshy. Got a nice big one back into the beach and then off to work.
Surfed the next morning but it was a fatter and inconsistent 3-5ft.
Looking forward to Wednesday onwards :D