WE vs VALS: The Paradox of Making Surfing 1975 Again

Yeah, at one point we all started. Maybe it's the sheer volume of numbers in such a short time that is the difference. I suppose that happened before too, imagine Dora raging at the Gidget crowds.

Typical Sam George nonsense.

What a bunch of nonsense. More group identity and creating us vs them dichotomies. The last thing we need.

The fact that it’s by Sam G and it’s on the Inertia should automatically tell you that it would be shit house

Let's play Bullshit Bingo!

You fellas are just worried about losing your white bro privilege.
Your nativism is, like, really offensive.

AndyM wrote:

You fellas are just worried about losing your white bro privilege.
Your nativism is, like, really offensive.

I think you need to loosen your man bun AndyM.
And maybe stop hanging out with strangers on the headland. ;)

I spit tobacco juice in your general direction.

haha

When I was in High school with 2000 kids only four of us surfed and we were seen as a different and it was somewhat frowned upon, no such thing as dads who surfed. These days you would be going to find four kids who don't surf. Surely it's about time surfing became uncool like lawn bowls.

I've tried to stop but I cant

o.k speaking of VALS.How old is the oldest surfer you know?
Surfed 3-4 waves yesterday and there was a 71 yr old getting a few.
Did a ments trip a while back surfing a remote left hander and there was a father and son surfing 6-8 foot waves,dad getting the best waves of the set regularly.
some more inspiration please!

Surfed a remote spot up in the mentawi last year and a Aussie called John was there getting a few at 74 , he would surf 3 times a day , just catch 3 waves each session, it was well overhead a couple of days and he new his limit. Very inspiring.

Surfed a properly thumping left beachie today with a 63-year old kneelo returning from back surgery. The old boy did some impressive low tide tube riding where the consequences, should shit go wrong, were a quick return to the doctor.

Thats commitment.
Forgot to mention the ments dad was 67,still charging and throwing a lot of spray.