Rotto is 'Adventure Island'
Airs have come a long way.
That was sick, have surfed one of those early Rusty's (WA made?) and it was a goer.
The old manager of gnaraloo camp told me Occy used to walk around camp carrying his bong close to his chest like a security blanket.
Mr Rusty W.A. ?
Occy was my favourite surfer for years- including to the present day- and I was mesmerised by those photos. Waves was pretty sick at varying times during its life, absolute shite at others.
Who was editor when they started all that Ozzie Wright inspired “artistic” scribbling bullshit all over the pages? Unreadable rubbish.
The David Carson that Beachgrit fetishises?
That’s some heavy duty Emperor’s new clothes shit.
The David Carson that Beachgrit fetishises?
That’s some heavy duty Emperor’s new clothes shit.
There was a period when even the surf brand clothes had that graffiti garbage all over it. Quite funny really. Maybe the same time boardies went below the knee?
Anyway- Occy’s style was incredible. Direct and powerful.
That’s the stuff. Isn’t it strange how something new can be mistaken for something good? Easily the second worst period in surf media. Even worse than when they encouraged pro surfers to write stream of consciousness dribble in the seventies.
The worst period in surf media is the WSL trying to camouflage immoral greed with a veneer of synthetic humanity.
That Mavericks spread is so good.
Just my 5c.
I agree.
McTavish is quite an accomplished writer, as is Terry Fitzgerald.
In my opinion surf writing really took the downhill turn when it was captured by the power of the surf industry.
It became mostly advertising copy and the editors/writers frequently went from the media to work for the industry.
Kidman at Waves, what a time to be young and impressionable and new to it all...
He was only 18 when he took the editorial? If so, what depth...
Terry Fitz sure can write.
And Phil J's Stubbies write up in old Tracks ("A week in the Presence of the Lord") is one of the all time articles, as the competition goes on the writer seems to see his sanity devolve in a most 'Fear and Loathing/Heart of Darkness' way, & MP for the win.
What have we got going on in Instabook surfing these days? Any writers (as opposed to aestheticists) of note?
#TL;DR
Can you parse that para into 140 characters Stu? MAFs is on and my 2 minute noodles are almost ready....gotta go.
chicken tendies, Blowin, chicken tendies :)
I didn't think FR was older? Btw, tip of the hat to Steve for the writing. Must be mind blowing to actually get paid for it... Steinbeck (one of my heroes) did a lot of different work and I'm guessing FR has as well; I reckon it makes for a great sense of perception regarding people and place.
I was trained as a writer, sold a dummy, no opportunity at the time to make anything of it and my head is too far in the numbers now to really care. My eldest, however, is young and possesses a truly great sense of narrative and story telling - he's more into fantasy fiction however.
Keep going with Swellnet Stu, as you get better. It's a gem.
We have many Rotto stories; most of them involving coming-of-age mixing with abject stupidity on our part (why did we always end up in the water catchment area on the way home from the pub, having to scale the fence in the dark when plastered?). It was innocent of the dark history which has been revealed, and as fresh as the winds blowing in from oblivion and over the West End (Little Fishook bay, lovely!) My father wanted some of his ashes spread in a corner of Geordie Bay, which we were able to do for him; and I return with reverence.
I've since found a place which I regard as what Rotto was for us then... a couple actually.
I have half completed writing a fictional surf novel....25,000 words deep. I think it's ok..Love writing. There's a few good surf writers floating around still, a fair few in these forums, FR being an obvious one and Swellnets head honchos being another i really enjoy. Plenty of contributors on here can also write really well, even those who i don't always agree with. Keep it up all. BTW didn't Occy have some weird experience with a lightning storm and Orcas surfing Rotto back on that trip? I remember reading about it. Sounded pretty classic.
25 words from you BD is more than enough...please, no.
Two spreads of Rotto from the eighties. Waves '84 and a follow up trip ('Return to Adventure Island') for an '86 issue of Waves.
First trip Banksy, Derek Hynd, and Greg Day, second trip G'Day again plus Occy, Mitch Thorson, and Mike Latronic.
Almost all photos taken at Strickos, which if you haven't surfed it, is a vastly better wave at size, as opposed to what the Woz is currently scoring.