Mindfulness & Surfing

Mundies, I've been surfing semi regularly for around 20 years, with a few lean periods, I don't consider myself a good surfer, probably intermediate forever, started late, but I love it. It is my grounding, gets my head right mostly, but if I have crap surf....look out. A crap surf session for me is one that doesn't involve at least two waves that felt awesome. (Just setting my scene). Yeah to most of you fellas I'm a kook.
One thing I have learnt though is to read the day, the session. Sometimes at my local I'll go out all gun ho and kill it , the very next day I'll paddle out a bit shy (maybe different guys in the water etc ) and I couldn't buy a wave.
If I go out confidant but chilled I have my best surfs. On my coast it never gets scary, so I have a one beer prior to paddling out, yeah probably get howled down for it but that's what I do. My best waves have come about with guys that encourage, not ridicule or compete. Thanks dove.
Good topic, mindset is everything I reckon, whether it's two foot or ten. But I'm a kook so what would I know.

Yeah mundies thats the Dove, great surfer, fisherman and a top bloke.

Mundies, I totally agree with you and had very similar thoughts whilst out in the water just this weekend. The enjoyment that I have when surfing is directly proportional to my mental state and mindfullness rather than the quality of the surf (within reason). As long as the waves are average and above I'll generally have a blast as long as I'm in the moment and not stressing about other things, past or future. As Tom Carroll said, "you can't run to the ocean from your problems" or something very similar. I also believe rhythm is very important too. Without being a fully paid up hippie myself, there is something to be said about aligning youself with the immediate world around you and flowing with it, rather than fighting, destroying or trying too hard to change it. Those surfs you have when your timing and wave selection align with what the ocean is delivering are epic. That seems to happen more when you're in the moment and completely in tune with your surroundings. I'm only just beginning mindfullness journey, so it remains to be seen whether this improves, or increases the number of quality surfs I have. I sure hope it does!

When I look at the word mindfulness, I see mindlessness..?

I think this is dyslexia...? Oh well.

Positve thoughts are a big factor in processing an appreciable human mind. I do feel lucky enough to appreciate this myself.
But negative thoughts still over ride my minnd from time to time.

I hope I'm on the right track here Mundies, but the closest Ive ever been at one with myself was a season snowboarding in Canada.
Every morning I'd have a hot shower, then an hour of yoga, then ride all day, coming home to a hot shower and another hour of yoga.
This went on for 86 days non-stop, where being at one with my board and myself was the most amazing feeling.
Mindfulness....?

All,
You don't by any chance practice Yoga at all?

Its the very thing it teaches, apart from the poses helping with balance and strength, it teaches about being in the present moment, and finding stillness within. Also, and more importantly for me, it teaches to work with the moments rather than fighting and to have an attitude of joy as struggle never works.

Can get a bit mystical at times, but helps my surfing, both physically and mentally. ...and if you saw my surfing you know its needs all the help it can get!

Great topic. Without getting to "spiritual": what works for me is replacing judgement with observation (or at least trying to). So rather assessing what makes something (a wave/person/your job/your partner/a beer) good or bad, I try to observe it as it is. Doing this while surfing, I find my self going for waves I'd normally would let go (because "i'm not in the right spot", "that fuck face on the right is going to drop in" etc) and get some interesting rides. It also allows me to let go of "doing it wrong" and be more "in touch" with what the wave is doing.
Probably the best part of it is a great sense of "fulfilment". Other than the stoke of a snappy cutback or a big spray on a vert top turn, it provides "clarity" or some sense of "being" (I know, only a pink unicorn would make this post more gay).

Now to completely make a fool out of myself: have a read (or listen) to Eckhart Tolle's Power of Now. The majority of it might be too hippie, but the bottom line of being in the now did make a lot a sense to me.
Another interesting perspective is The Zen of Surf by Lorin Roche

Ah mindfulness and being mindful, my life/daily struggle :)
Regular yoga and meditation practice helps me to still my mind and be more present.
Surfing is such a joyful thing but more so when truly present.

Mindfulness = Quantum Entanglement

Flow in psychology is needed for improving your best surfing and surfing at your own best.

There are elements that require flow such as joy, goals and the way you think.
While things like stress worry anxiety and depression bar you from a "flow"state of mind.

Flow is getting in the zone, being on fire etc.

In my opinion some people such as John McEnroe in tennis and possibly Hewett used anger and their aggression to enter this state of mind to become at their peak.
Others will need to chill.
Playing ping pong, pool, snooker and computer games will let you understand how to get into this mindset more often however imo for each different activity it requires a different approach. even different style waves or boards do. like fish surfing at rincon verses pintail at teahopu.
Im no expert on this but it interests me a lot. Im still inconsistent and average though unless surfing everyday.

Diet and health imo greatly effect how long you stay in flow.

Dont know about all this mindfulness stuff, how i surf mostly has to do with what the waves are like, i generally surf best when the waves are good and bad when there not, although when there in-between it can go either way.

http://psychology.about.com/od/PositivePsychology/a/flow.htm
Theres a little more about flow.

Great topic,interesting takes on the subject. Keeping it positive is probably why some people cant surf well in crowds, i dont believe its just anxiety or self doubt but also not wanting to be a carnt to others and the negative unbelievable behavior seen at crowded spots.

While many surfers surf better in crowds. Some like being a cunt others negativity just doesnt phaze them i guess. magnanimous?

I think some of you over think the whole thing.

That's really funny shaun because you are absolutely right, over thinking causes a busy not a still mind.

Please, don't over hippitize the whole conceptualiness of the matter at hand.

Lol pretty true, it might be pumping in your area Shaun. Im sure every pro skater and pro surfer and sports player knows how to get into a groove, some not often enough which is why inconsistency is common.

a lot might be inconsistent because they havent thought about why they are in the groove.
Some need weed some need speed some need health.
Baseballers put up with pysch out crap every game. Not thinking about it at all while its dead flat for months doesnt help knowing how to get back into that groove.

Although flow is all about not thinking of tomorrow its about thinking about now this moment, energized super focus while not thinking much at all.
See one, take off dont think much at all you're feet are in the right spot.You surf better than you ever did. You are in flow.See a challenge, do it.

Thinking about this while the surf is good like you say shaun will get you out of the groove.
Practice, confidence and letting go of your worries is basically all it is.
But flow theory agrees with why surfers lose mojo. dont want to surf 1 ft slop, just surfed 10 foot pipe dont feel like surfing a 2 foot perfect peeler.
No challenge. imo ride a new board like changing from metal to classical. A 2ft peeler on a mal is a relaxing sunday. Pipe is friday night at a thrash gig.

Colin McCrae rally style games back in late 90's helped my focus and tuberiding 100%.
Although hyperfocus and daydreaming can be a side effect.With some decent ideas made here and there.

This relates to my previous post re: Quantum Entanglement, this is an Einstein Theory of how everything in the universe is interconnected...quite deep but is closely connected with this subject.

I have been practicing Yoga for 22ys and the first 10 of those I also practiced Tai Chi. I totally understand what the OP is about.

Groundswell makes a comment about people using different emotions to get in the "zone".

This can work for all of us in surfing with the many differing human emotions if one accepts the self to embrace these emotional states, and for the self to realise that all human emotions are essential. Once the self accepts all emotions as essential, the next step is to realise emotional flow is beneficial, and to not bottle up or allow any particular emotion take control of the self. Only then can the path to true mindfulness be achieved.

Back to groundswells comment, once the self accepts the above concept, it does not matter what emotion you may be feeling before that surf, that game of golf or that visit to the boss' office, embrace it, use it and become one with the "Chi" of any given situation.

(Self in the above context relates to the condition of inner psyche and the self of universal connection, not the self of ego and the physical 'me')

A few personal examples;
When I'm in crowded, unruly surf crowds where it's dog eat dog (which i detest, but sometimes have no choice), I become the bastard everyone hates...it may not be good for the soul but it sure gets the wave count up when every other bastard in the water is prepared to burn each other without a second thought. That state of mindfulness is negative, however it is still going with the state of mind in that momentary crowd.

When the surf is big, I'm talking 8-10' plus, I get super nervous, even fearful. Then I have this way of turning that fear into extreme excitement, and I get so amped I can't wait to get out in the waves. Early on in my surfing this excitement was also dangerous as I allowed it to get me over-amped, and this would lead to bad decisions and mistakes in the surf. This is the mindfulness of turning negative, fearful situations to positive feelings and outcomes.

A couple of weeks back I was surfing a local beachie, 3' and 5 crew out. After an hour or so of taking turns and in a sweet collective groove, I watch a guy paddle out from the beach. He proceed to paddle past everyone to the inside spot, where a young fella was waiting patiently for a set wave. As that wave appeared, old mate the snake takes that wave, and the young fella being too nice lets him have it. I was down the line a bit and was appalled at the snakes behaviour, and felt just as much injustice for the young fella. I then made the decision to drop in on the snake, ride the wave just in front of the pocket mid face to make it impossible for the snake to have a functional ride as such and as I pulled off near the end told the snake to please learn to wait his turn. I was not aggressive in my delivery to the snake, just straight forward and to the point (he paddled back out to the end of the line). This state of mindfulness is being aware of those around oneself, and taking a mindful view of universal justice.

Then there are the days where I'll be in the surf by myself or in the crowd with a cool collective vibe. Feeling connected, serene and "switched on", just cruising, being in the right place all the time and surfing with great timing and flow. Mindfulness at it's purest, no thought, no effort...pure serenity.

There are other mindfulness examples I could give but I have already written a novella as it is.

P.S. Watch a documentary called I Am by Tom Shadyak. The full doco is on Youtube.

e wrote:

Please, don't over hippitize the whole conceptualiness of the matter at hand.

Shaun, the "conceptualiness of the matter at hand" was hijacked by the hippies, that's why your view about this conversation can become "over hippitized".

You do realise that Yoga/Tai Chi/Tao and the concept of 'self' has been practiced for at least 4000 years, only about 3950 years before the hippies.

Connectedness ....

It is by the deep and hidden currents that all oceans are made one ......

e wrote:

It is by the deep and hidden currents that all oceans are made one ......

And those oceans are made one by many single drops of water...and those drops are made by many molecules of H & O...and on and on it goes.

"conceptualiness of the matter at hand" was hijacked by the hippies," Who gives a ratsfuck, I have no idea what you are on about, never did. Actually I reckon your just over blabbing. Tripper, mate, sit down chuck the green tea down the gully trap and poison yourself with a couple of beers and it will be then that you will realize that you have taken the concept of "self" which has been practised for at least 4000 years blahblahblah yadayadayada and gone to far, to the point where your "up" your "self"

First, Glasshopper, you must catch the Fry.

I did many Vipassana meditation retreats back when I could (read: before kids) and found the concept of mindfulness something to strive for. It doesn't take much to understand how it works (Hello Shaun!) and how it's beneficial to an improved life. It ain't hippy-ish, pop-psych, or religious. Athough Vipassana comes from a Burmese Buddhist tradition, plenty of atheists, such as myself, practice it.

The athletic concept of being 'in the zone' is very closely related to mindfulness. I've also heard CT level surfers, including Mick Fanning, expand on their concentration techniques before and during heats and they sound awfully like mindfulness with a pro sport spin put on top of it.

I guess it's all how you package the product.

You da man Shaun, I shall defer all universal knowledge questions to you from now on ;)

P.S. I was smashing down that cup of hot, delicious green tea as I read your reply calling bullshit on my point of view...fucking lovely one it was too. Can't comply with the coldies though, stopped that shit many moons ago.

I wasn't calling bullshit on your point of view tripsmellfeet, I was calling bullshit on your shit doesn't stink attitude. It just sounds like your up yaself.
I've just been musing on the amount and the length of words used by some to say fuckall.

I'm just a mere speck of dust Shaun, I know fuck all.

From your turn of phrase you definitely seem to know more than most.

I've come across this weird phenomena where when surfing (not every surf) I'll catch a decent wave and surf it relatively well to my standards and this will give my an increase in adrenaline or something and then for the next 30-45min period I'll continue to surf well and catch nearly everything coming through (I hate sitting and waiting).

Before or after the period fades away though I'll go back to stuffing up simple turns or not surfing as well as I know I can and I usually head in.

Is this just a feeling of confidence or is the adrenalin kicking in and helping my surfing.

It's hard to explain, but I can notice when it kicks in and make the most of it when it's there.

^^Google "too much adrenaline in the body". Along with adrenaline, Cortisol is produced and the down side is a downer.

It's a shame mindfulness has negative type connotations in our society. People don't understand how real it is & pass it off as some spiritual hippy wank. But when you get it, it's as clear as day & very much like waking up to reality. Buhddist based countries aspire to it. I've used it quietly for 20 years now just to feel pure. I consciously use it in stressful situations, say like a car breakdown, takes me about 3 seconds & I'm comfortable with the new challenge & begin solving it, even if that just means pulling out the credit card. As far as surfing goes though I have never consciously sought to practice it in the water. I've gone their randomly during solo sessions but never made it a goal. It's a great idea Mundies thanks for the tip. I can assure anyone reading this thread & is waiting for the pink unicorn that you just don't get it, & you are missing out big time. Buy a book. Read it.

I get it shoredump, but I see it in a different way, not every one in Buddhist based countries aspires to "mindfulness", probably just the monks that westerners seek out. A few of you guys think your pretty special cause you have this "mindfulness", when all it is is just not stressing out and getting on with it. you sound like dads who thinks that their kid is special, he's just a kid get over it, your just a dickhead like the rest of us get on with it.
Shaun's right, tepeegreenfoot your up yourself, what sort of surfer burns another surfer and is proud of it, classic "I'm special attitude".
I've been in the zone for most surfs I have all my life, without being "mindful". I call it just simply enjoying myself.

There are quite a few people ive met (me too) that could do with some mindfulness and Buddhism not just for them but for everyone around them.Working in construction or travelling through indo there are so many stress head psycho loose nuts that i wish were hippies even begger homeless bums rather than psycho pull a knife on you for a ciggie type assholes.

One work partner like that with was right into his Holden cars and 80's music, drove a lowered sported out VK commodore back then. The boss and i sat there one day waiting in our truck for him to get back to his car with a note i left "Sorry i hit your car, i dont have insurance sorry" No number etc..
He came back and went ape mental, kicking his tyres and alloy wheels doing damage to his own car while there was none in the first place. Good times :) .

Alcohol imo can turn a mellow person into a raging psycho too.

It's more than just not stressing out Morris, & feeling special is definately not any part of it. Quite the opposite actually.

"Alcohol imo can turn a mellow person into a raging psycho too."

Yeah, everything in moderation, including thought.

e wrote:

Shaun's right, tepeegreenfoot your up yourself, what sort of surfer burns another surfer and is proud of it, classic "I'm special attitude".

Morris, first off, what's with you guys that disagree with a point, then change a members username to a derisive one...that is a superiority complex in itself. If you only knew how I came to use trippergreenfeet, it would surprise you as it has nothing to do with being worldly, wise, a greenie or a traveler. And honestly, a tepee does nothing for me, it's just a fucking tent. The only people who think a tepee has power are those that believe in crystal healing and homeopathy.

So Morris, I guess you are the kind of guy that would get real pissed with a snake in the water, but put up with it the entire surf. Then when you finally get to the beach, you would bitch and moan to your mates how this snake brought down the vibe and ruined the session for all. Well, instead of letting a snakes behaviour slide from the first instance, nip that bad behaviour at the bud straight up...9 times out of 10 they will pull their head in and will be cool the rest of the session.

Occasionally someone needs to put the water patrol badge on mate, for the benefit of all in the water. Perhaps it has to do with me growing up on the far west coast of SA and Cactus being my local through my formative years.

Would you allow your own badly behaving child to repeatedly get away with blatant disrespect to others (against the status quo) or would you step in the first instance it rears its ugly little head and say "that is not the way to behave"? Or are you the guy with the kid who is a total brat, trashing and misbehaving wherever s/he goes because the kid has never known discipline?

Mindfulness is not just about inner peace, tranquility and enlightenment, it's also about situational awareness to the well being of those around us. Part of the whole package really.

And just to be clear, burning another surfer does not make me a proud man, it's about calling out the bully in the crowd for the happiness of all.

e wrote:

All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing. Edmund Burke

As a side note, turns out the guy I called out is a father at the same primary school my child goes to. We had a chat about what happened, he apologised and said he had just had about the worst 24 hrs of his life...family troubles, work troubles and was just not thinking clearly that day he entered the water. We are only mere animals after all with all the fallibility that comes with it.

Mundies, about the internal dialogue you speak of...you are definitely right in saying the key is to calm the dialogue from all the internal and external "noise" that is us and surrounds us. One of the first points my Tai Chi master made to me about meditation was that the mind can never be completely deactivated as some would have us believe through meditation. His words were "to deactivate the mind is to activate the mind".

I would have just called him out as I don't drop in, though I know some people have it down to a fine art, I was not bought up that way

Who made up all these meanings to words from the english dictionary..?
"Mindfulness" to me looks like when your mind is full.
"Mindlessness" to me looks like when your mind is empty.

Being mindful of other people means respect in my eyes, so dropping in or being a bastard to others in a crowded line up isn't mindfulness! or is it.? I think this is mindlessness, without justification or concern for others.

TF why do you drop in on some guy and then tell him to wait his turn, rather that just telling this guy to wait his turn. Do you think he might learn from you and do the same act later on to some one else.?

I understand TF what you are saying quote " Mindfulness is not just about inner peace, tranquility and enlightenment, it's also about situational awareness to the well being of those around us. Part of the whole package really." I kind of dont feel that dropping in on someone purposely , is inner peace, enlightenment or tranquility or even the last bit of situational awareness to the well being of those around us.
Do you see what I mean.? If people are that at one with themselves, through yoga, meditation, mindfulness, etc why is dropping in on someone and being a carnt in a crowded line up "Mindfulness"
Just a thought.
:)

That's exactly what I was trying to say Wally, but alas the meaning of my my words often get lost in my illiteracy. But basically TF is a dickhead like the rest of us.

e wrote:

I'm just a mere speck of dust Shaun, I know fuck all.

You fellas obviously missed that post a couple of pages back...I don't know much, but there is one thing I have come to realise.

I've been cruising many varied internet forums since the net was in it's infancy, and I can honestly say Swellnet (my first surfing forum) has a user base disproportionately willing to character assassinate, deride members and troll threads. There are so many example of this behaviour in the thread content of Swellnet I have lost count.

Way to go guys, showing the intolerant, insecure tribal side of surfing is still thriving. Certainly very little mindfulness happening round here.

Well, we're not all like Shaun, Trippergreenfeet. I know exactly what you're talking about, and both subscribe and aspire to what you're advocating. There is, however, a way to deal with internet trolls.

Well Stu that's just the sort of character assassination Dippygreenteeth was talking about.

Sorry drippy, it's just the name you gave yourself, just can't help it, but there you go psychoanalysis that.:-)

I know Stu, in a moment of weakness I fed the trolls hiding under the keyboard bridge.

Umm , so anybody who calls you out is a troll, I'm just a surfer mate just like you, but I have different values. Pot calling the kettle black if you ask me, are you known around your local as trippergreenfeet, real live people know me as Shaun, so who are you to call posters out for hiding behind a false name.
And you Stu, I bet you wouldn't be using your real name if this wasn't your site and making billions of dollars from it:-) or at least a discount at hungry jacks and dominos.
Stripper, you have strong views on what you think are right, but if someone calls you out on bad behavior that you seem to be proud of , they are trolls. Is Wheelybin a troll too?

Hope your proud of yourself snipper, young shaun is upset and has gone off down to the river with a flagon to drink under the bridge, It's only 10 in the morning, he usually doesn't start drinking before 11.