Where did you surf today?
"shaun" wrote:"merkin" wrote:"shaun" wrote:Wow you make me feel like a leper, but luckily I live and surf in a leper colony cause honestly this crap is ridiculous.
By: "merkin"
So you're from Noosa?
No.
Dapto?
Australia
Why does it matter where I live, so you can put me in a box and label it? Why not? It is just as silly as labeling someone a kook for for using 7' as a measurement of wave height.
"merkin" wrote:"shaun" wrote:"merkin" wrote:"shaun" wrote:Wow you make me feel like a leper, but luckily I live and surf in a leper colony cause honestly this crap is ridiculous.
By: "shaun"
So you're from Noosa?
No.
Dapto?
Australia
Why does it matter where I live, so you can put me in a box and label it? Why not? It is just as silly as labeling someone a kook for for using 7' as a measurement of wave height.
Penrith then? That's cool though - Mick's from Penrith. Heard there's lots of easy chicks in Penrith. Don't think there'd be many 7's though - I'm guessing more around the 4 to 6 range - suits me fine. Maybe I could come over and I'll get a room at the Panthers and we can go chase some skirt. I'm guessing it would be denim skirt seeing it is Penrith and all. That's cool though - easy access... wink wink... though I've got a station wagon and don't want to bend them over the bonnet - when I was in Dapto this chick got a bit excited and grabbed the windscreen wiper and buggered it up. Tell you what - if you've got a sedan we can take that and bend them over the boot - have you got a towbar? That can come in real handy if you want to get a bit of a leg up if you know what I mean.
Where's Penrith? Who is Mick?
Thought I'd try something different and stick to the topic, just got back from a filthy surf, offshore,sunny and about 2ft overhead double up sandbank left and right, the right was longer and hollower but either way was fun, had it all to myself. I'd love to tell you where it is but unfortunately I've forgotten, things like that just slip your mind as you get older, shame I would have loved to share it with the rest of Australia seeing as you all have the next 3 days off.
Farkin hilarious.
Stu, loved your story about hassles at Manly. Wankers, can't live with 'em, can live without 'em.
I'm only one more bout of that shit from either turning into a mad bad punching machine or giving surfing away. I just can't face that psychopath shit any more. I see enough of that at work.
Surfed the work computer today, surfed it like a demon grommet.
I'll get in the water one day soon.
Merkin, nice work.
Craig, not sure if it was the same day, but when that hot spell in Sydney ended I was watching the surf cams in Wollongong to see when the southerly would finally hit up Sydney way, my place in particular.
I sat on my balcony and watched and waited, and eventually watched the southerly hitting the water and moving slowly up the coast.
Love that.
Just had a surf a nice little surf, left hander, slight sea breeze, inside bowl section about 1 to 2 ft short of head high and 4 out. Not bad for a public holiday.
Had a surf here on the mid in SA at triggs ... forcast 2-3ft on the incomming arvo tide. Struggled 2 ft with the wind that whipped up. just another mid coast weekend. now its forcast as flat for the next week or so. Looks like a trip to weights/ parsons is in order this weekend.
Bummer Pauly.. Yorkes looks like it was epic on the weekend.
Bummer Pauly.. Yorkes looks like it was epic on the weekend.
By: "thermalben"
My mate said to me as we were standing on the cliffs watching the dwindling surf "We should of gone to yorkes". Victor this friday is forcast 5.5 ft so fingers crossed there might be worth a quick trip in the car after work.
Surfed a great right point on me s.u.p. today, just over 2.43 foot under head high, no one else out bliss.
Aah just under double scrotum high then.
Yes Bob, 0.4753 above a gut sliders head.
That paints an uggly picture.
top of the morning to all, have had some real good waves on the nambucca rivermouth for the last 4 yes 4 days great sand and warm water almost thought that i was in mundaka! very few people out read 5 at most and were going wave for wave no aggro dolphins all round and a really good vibe.now the wave height are we in meters or feet? ill go feet because of the imperial connection to my good self was 4 to 6 feet on the low tide it was draining and ripped out 2 fins went in for my other steed and had some of the best waves of my life! yes i was on a shortboard 6'8" down from 9'6" and i must say i missed those little boards fast and loose. well off to slay more dragons today. just been so consistant nearly surfed out i said nearly,this update has been shared by the bigfella himself and undisputed king of the shortboard
Plenty of options in Southern Sydney over the past few days-
man.. how good is everywhere at the moment. Warm water, sik waves! Gold Coast has been sooooooo good! My SPLASHCHAT iPhone app is going crazy with sick reports everyone is posting. If I get motivated, I'll upload a photo or two. If you are on iphone and use splashchat (get it if you dont' already have it), my name is johny cash. Anybody got some good photos to post?
Kelly Slater riding a plank of something in Wollongong this afternoon.
"WOW" is all i can say.
these boards are soooo much fun....
waves have been great on Sunny Coast lately, last Tuesday was all time but everyday has been pretty bloody good, not big but great fun beachies with plenty of good banks too...
Had a nice surf this morning at a right hand reef, solid 6' to 7' with the odd 7 to 8' bomb. a bit crowded though with 4 other guys out and only 6 or 7 waves in a set.
No need to get specific but was this in Vicco or Tas?
I would guess Vicco, probs east of Melbourne.
I'm not to sure, I'll have to ask the young lass in the nurses uniform that looks after me. Ask me that in the morning again as she is on the morning shift and I probably won't remember you asked, ooh it's 7.30 there serving up cocoa, then it meds then off to bed, night.
mr shaun, how are things in disneyland? you are not bigwayne so therefore do not have the resourses to have your own nurse. wetnurse maybe but some little lovley to look after you i doubt it . walking down the corridoor of the aged care facility does not constitute a barrel and i suspect that the roof height is 7' and it became 8' when you had to sit on your walking frame but alas it is reality for you and that is good!keep up the meds sometimes they work and other times well.......
mr more you do realise that this is not ebay or the trading post dont you little man? trying to flog your wares here shows how little knowledge you have of business and how to make money. if you need advice you only need to ask and i will be happy to give some pointers on how its done. don trump bigwayne don trump bigwayne methinks its the same person. anyhoo mr fooji who cares about kelly (is that not a girls name?) and posting photos of him proves one thing you are not my loyal subject and as such will be getting the first g.m.r.c.comp at your local, water patrol read merciaries and all. i am king shit of turd mountain old son not that boy with a girls name. i can feel a tantrum coming on pass my meds please mrs bigwayne and a crystal decanter of the royal water ahh thank you .you are lucky that mrs bigwayne is here to save you all from my wrath. mr fooji im upset and need a cup of tea and a nap because the voices in head are conversing and they are not liking you. this was almost a tantrum and you should all thank mrs bigwayne for stepping in when she did and business advisor to the unruly lower middle class
Well said shithead.
the run of good waves ended this morning.
Up until then it was 2 surfs a day for 5 days.
Orford River mouth -crowds but plenty of waves,
Picanniny Pt - only 4 mates
Shelly Point - no more than 10
Wedge - just a few guys out
Come back swell we miss you already
Wow, you've been getting around TLC.
Looks like there will be plenty of SW swell from today until at least Sunday.
I've been varying the surf-craft depending on the conditions and wave.
With last week's swell I surfed the Bower on the long board a few times, and then took our the handsurfer when the beachie backed off a bit and straightened up.
Each afternoon this week just been longboarding the beachie, but the evening high tide is creating a bit of backwash which is a bit dangerous with my recovering knee.
Water is delightful and still in boardies!
Hey Mark Pridmore,
I'm wondering whether you're interested in selling one of your photos? I'm over in the norhtwest of the US at the moment, gonna be a little while til I'm back on the Sunny Coast and even tho it's only a small size, the photo you put up on page 8 of this thread of the sunny left hander evokes some serious memories of fun late morning autumn/winter surfs at currimundi. I realise it's probably not there but it reminds me of many a surf I had there. I'd love to put it up here at home if you're happy to sell it.
3 ft Offshore at RSL's. Mostly close outs due to outgoing tide, but with the occasional one holding up nicely. No one else around either.
benski, send me an e-mail via my web-site and we can work it out mate...
Had a nice surf this morning at a right hand reef, solid 6' with the odd 8' bomb.
By: "shaun"
Fixed.
"shaun" wrote:Had a nice surf this morning at a right hand reef, solid 6' with the odd 8' bomb.
By: "merkin"
Fixed.
Ahh......Hung by my own petard.
mr ski, why would you want to pay when it is there already for free? i am the computer wizard on this site and i can show you how to "download" it if you want (for a small fee of course). maybe mr ski and mr more and mr mark pridmore are the same person? i know two of you are! anyhoo like the big fish in the little ocean that i am ill take the bait why rush to that little mans rescue mr ski? who else has ten differnt names on this site posts photos of their wares and then try to flog them off? if you want photos, there is one of my goodself on this site you can have for free! i think spongy the spank rag took it while i was doing my thang! so little mr ski why do you love him so much and not me? your feerless leeder? please do tell as i am in a frgile state at the moment knowing that you could hold mr pridmore in such reverence and not yours truly? this plead for mr skis love and adoration was bought to you by the emotionally unstable person that you alone mr ski have turned ones self into
Through my work, this week I am stuck well north of where I normally am and found myself surfing (kind of) with about 10 others in rainy, 30kt wind blown, conditions at north wall Mackay Harbour !!!
You can all start laughing now.
Had a few fun go-outs there in cyclones.
Not as good as Rat-shit bay north of Cairns though.
Yeah, been there too Steve. Only the once after a cyclone yeahs ago. Forget the name now.
How's your foot?
First surf in a very long time due to the arrival of our little girl.
Average waves, my arms are just about falling off and my paddling fitness has vanished. Caught a couple of half decent waves but largely a frustrating session by my old standards.
But you know what, who cares. I loved it, I got wet and enjoyed every moment.
It even rained, ahhhh I love the sea in the rain :)
Late afternoon surf at Bower till dark.
Been having some great sessions around the place and getting my flow back, but the first part of today's surf was shocking. I think I was frothing too hard and just felt out of sync. Waves were full but fun and around 3ft.
Slowed things down and got back into the swing of things just in time for a late pulse of swell near dark to 4-5ft on the sets.
Best waves were missing the deepest take-off, swinging in wide and doubling up over surge.
Recent model updates looking very juicy for early next week and an upgrade will be most likely made to the forecast tomorrow.
Can't wait!
been getting lots of fun waves lately, not big but some head high lines with really great conditions, I love this time of year....
grabbed a shorey other day, dumpers churning up the bottom, saw around 2 out of 10 have a half decent ride, rest of us floating blithely soaking up some sum
Started on the rocks in the dark. With Rusty Gromfest in town and last weekend of QLD school hols this is the biggest clusterfcuk of the year here: no complaints, it's good for local business.
The question is how to duck and weave.
Start early is one......there was one guy out in the half light, soul arching through some hollow point grinders.
By sunrise, it was infested. The day was perfect though; and one should try and keep some aces up the sleeve, as a hedge against international invasions.
I tried a rockledge at hightide, a spot that breaks like a cross between an aussie ledge and Lakey Pipe. It's super shallow, thats for damm sure; and loves to send people to the emergency ward, usually as a result of going headfirst into the bottom or such-like.
There was only 3 in the water, including one very well mannered italian gentlemen who now resides in the area. There was room to take turns. A nice little chit-chat between sets. Apparently some little eye-tie was on a tear at the Gromfest. Leonardo. Grew up surfing in the Med. The freaking med. Hotpants and vespas are coming to a beach near you.
Some work-a-daddies paddled out, we're all work-a-daddies..but these crew failed to realise the essential logical requirements of this ledge; which is: the take-off area is tiny and right next to an almost dry surge. they sat down the line and got pitched from crest to trough on the shallowest part of the ledge.
Coming back to the point I met up with a bush regen/ecologist mate. He's been working in the area on an endangered shrub, Fountainea Oraria, which only grows in a small remnant of littoral rainforest. There are 11 specimens of this plant left on the planet. This is one of the rarest things on this planet. You need a security clearance to be shown the existing plants. He took me up the headland and showed me one of the caged off specimens, after I was sworn to secrecy. I could hear the loudspeakers from the Gromfest drifting in the wind, and see the headland carpark full of 4WD's and holiday makers. Fcuking 11 left!............imagine if there were 11 humans left on the planet.
Back on the slope there was a curious sight. An older bloke looked to have what appeared to be a garden variety Thai hooker in tow, replete with skin tight red dress and high heels. She was attracting a few stares and old mate's emotional state seemed a cross between sheepishness and pride. She was tottering on those heels, thats for sure.
Next morn, the swell had muscled up and space in the line-ups was at a premium. I went back to the endangered shrub......it was freaking marvellous just to spend some time with it. And spent the arvo listening to GrandStand on the radio, with the chookies getting up over the chocolate soldiers. Great times.
...."The Scientific Committee, established by the Threatened Species Conservation Act, has made a Final Determination to list the rainforest tree Fontainea oraria Jessup & Guymer (Coastal Fontainea) as a CRITICALLY ENDANGERED SPECIES in Part 1 of Schedule 1A of the Act,"
....."Fontainea oraria is endemic to New South Wales where it is known only from the vicinity of Lennox Head on the far North Coast."
Great read Steve. I'll post up my accounts from the weekend when I get a chance.
A big southerly swell and a brisk north westerly saw me take on the, ahem, secret delights of the town's (usually placid) front beach yesterday. It hadn't broken for at least 14 years, but everyone and their dogs seemed to remember just where and when it works. Without Swellnet's obvious help, I'm quick to add.
A few others tried Shark Alley, but neither the wind nor tide were quite right, and they all took a bigger pounding than the rewards made worthwhile.
I love this time of the year. One complaint only: am I getting old, or are the icecream headaches getting worse???
Finally, nice post Steve. Although its fact made me a bit rueful; you've been more than a bit quiet of late. I was hoping the silence meant that you were on a slow freighter about to dock in Port Elizabeth.
Mr Nettle, what is going on?
Can't explain that Whaaat, bit absorbed in myself at the moment...
Felt like I was really blowing it this swell, I chased it but scored nothing worth writing about. Seemed whenever I swerved this way, it swerved that way and all I got was stories about how good it was yesterday/this morning/five minutes before I rocked up.
Manly was four foot this morning so I bolted south after the peak hour, heading straight for the spot. Got there and it was 10-12 feet and empty, however the wind had too much west and was blowing chop up the face. It was big, mean and nasty. Tuesday's cover boy, Griggsy, was alone on the dune, willing the wind to turn. "I'm staying till it swings" he said grimly from under his hoodie.
I wasn't keen to wait. After all, I had work to do (you reading this Ben?) so I headed to the Point. It was only around 5-6 foot and inconsistent and I was thinking the swell had dodged me once again. An hour in Griggsy rocks up, beaten by the wind. Not ten minutes later I notice a different ripple pattern appearing on the face of the waves, the wind was edging north and coming more square on.
Before the next set hit I was back in my car in my wetsuit heading to the original spot. Get there, it's still 8-10 feet with one person out, the wind a smidge nasty but do-able. Fins in the gun, suit up, and time my rock off. Paddle down the coast and find the other fella has gone in. Fuck! I'm never comfortable surfing this joint alone, especially not at this size.
Got plenty of sealife for company however, with whales breeching nearby, schools of fish hitting the surface, and flocks of sea birds hitting the fish. I open my account on a few smaller ones and ease into the sesh.
One fella joins me. He was the guy I was watching when I rocked up. I know him. He paddled back out to join me and the first thing he says is "I just got chased in by a shark. The odds are better now". Fuck and fuck.
He then points out an inflatable runabout about 500 metres down the line-up with no occupant in it. I'd been wondering about it. Tells me it's his and that this morning he was so frantic to get going he put 4-stroke into the 2-stroke motor and it had now konked out. The engine was dead. He was gonna surf first and then try to paddle it back to shore later, not the least perturbed by the prospect of paddling a boat through 10 foot seas.
The sets come. It's consistent and we trade waves and stories for the next two hours. The wind just gets better in direction and the barrels are big and round. Jenna makes an appearance and proceeds to put on an incredible show. Sitting inside and paddling for the bombs he makes like a rockape, confidently getting to his feet as the face goes beyond vertical, the lip pitching out into the empty air above him. He scrapes under the falling lip and sets his inside rail at once working against and with the wave. The penalty for error in such a situation doesn't bear thinking about, while the reward is an incredibly fast moving top-to-bottom, stand-up barrel. Jenna gets a few such rewards.
I get pasted on a bomb, the board thrown sideways on takeoff while I do Leaping Lenny's out of the lip. Coming up clean on the other side I breathe a sigh of relief and promptly wear a 10 foot set on the head. Later I get caught napping and have do the best duckdive of my life through a gurgling below sea-level beast that had me doing underwater windmill paddles, Aquaman kicks, and praying ever-so-earnestly not to get dragged backward into the maul. No atheists in a foxhole? I might have to reassess my position...
Heading in I see Strohy on the rocks. "When's yer movie comin' out?" I yell.
"November" is his reply.
"This year?"
Strohy's movie has been coming out for a few years. His last one, 2230, came out in 2001 and was a fucken incredible film, showcasing all the reefs around this area breaking in full flight. This one - the one he is filming for this afternoon - is supposed to be even better.
STOP PRESS: Check today's Wave of the Day for Jenna on one of his bombs.
Ah, Stu, that bloke you don't recognise at the place you can't remember the name of seemed to be having a good time of it....
Something strange happened to my comment. The gist of it was 'great story, thanks!'
Victa,
If you used quote marks (") then we get a coding error and your comment goes wacky. It's a fundamental error on our behalf - of course people are going to use quote marks in comment sections! - but to fix it would take a few days of downtime. We'd rather have our Code Monkey...sorry Tech Guy, overhaul the entire comments section and roll out a bug-free version.
That's what he is working on in the background.
Looks pretty sweet Stu.....can see why there was only a handful out.
I got sucker punched into some committments yesterday and by the time I'd wriggled free the wind had switched N'ly.......devilish for 'round here.
Looked fairly hall of fame yesterday morning.
What a fucken weekend, eh?!
Gotta gather my thoughts, and empty this beer, and eat something hearty.
But sheesh...what a weekend.
Stu - hope that wasnt you at the bommie this arvo with 2 rescue choppers, jetskis and a police rescue boat all called in
A Realsurf staple-( sorry Priddes for the plagarism)
No surf today but off to Vicco tomorrow for the weekend so heres hoping!