What stops us popping up ?
+1
Always keep in mind the kinesiology of the body @supa. We have the advantage of having spring like functions in our muscles and tendons and even to some extent flexible cartilage and bones.
When we go to stand up, lifting the chest off the board first, with hands still planted on the rails coils our body into a spring like position. You don't wanna hold it too long though. Gotta make the most of that latent energy in the spring. Possibly alot of that loss of 'pop' you are mentioning is more so in the delay of the mind in that crucial moment than in the body. Just gotta remember to use that spring at it's optimal coil and not let brain fog get in the way. That's my theory on it anyway. Hope that at least gets you an extra late takeoff legend. I'm sure you're a long way off anyway.
@SR , I find it so much easier getting up on steeper faces ( not slabs ) it actually helps me . Waves where I’ve been forced to take the drops on my guts and then try to recover from a flat position, I just fucking 80% of the time kook it and have lost the drive into the wave . Embarrassing but funny. Hope you’re getting some waves mate , had a good laugh with soggy dog this arvo about the characters on SN , you rank as one of our favourites.
ahhh yes, the magic of gravity on steep faces @supa. With gravity pulling the board away from you it's so much simpler. Conversely, starting on a flat face you're straight up doing a pushup against gravity plus getting bucked around. That's where foam is definitely your friend. A bit of stability from rail to rail.
So i guess you're right in your original post, the real answer in shit wavesis to ride a heap of foam and in proper waves stick to your tried and tested weapons. Mate i'm 47 and i've been a stickler to heaps of foam in flat fat waves for years. I just want to ride the wave as far as i can ultimately. Performance be damned! My fave as i've mentioned in the past is my 8ft softy with boat like proportions.
But if the waves are pumping and under 6ft i'll happily jump onto something in the 25-28L 5'8"-6'1" size knowing that the wave will do most of the work and i can rely on what i already know about surfing as we all do. I just wish i'd surfed more foam as a grom and not struggled in 2ft beachies on little glass slippers.
haha yeah right back at ya's legends. 100percent thoroughbreds you two. Soggy must be loving missing this shitty cold weather, or in SN parlance, a LWT. Can only imagine the laughs you two were having at the swellnut tery. Not a bad bunch all round though.
HUZZA lads!!
@SR , soggy dog is the first swellnutter I’ve met in the flesh. He’s been busy with family and doing his own thing but we have caught up a couple of times . Had a good laugh this arvo talking about working in the Pilbara and various topics . I boasted how I had my 21st in the big cave at the bluff while on the dole , he came back with “ I can top that , I was getting rent assistance “ fark we laughed . Both true stories.
Haha so good @supa. That's an epic 21st story!!!!!
My 21st i ditched everyone i knew and drove from Victor Harbor to Bells in my 67 Ford Transit Van...and surfed pumping Bells. I remember clearly sitting in the Southside carpark one night with a skinful or rum and making up a damn good little song on the accoustic that i still play to this day. Some good energy there. Funny where we gravitate to on those kind of moments. Definitely sense a kindred spirit. Speaking of which...pretty sure i was getting the ol top up from Mr Keating at that time too Soggy!!
Against swellnet protocol....sending big love to ya both.
Quality through and through. Get a bit of a warm water shampoo for me please.
This has probably been discussed before, I’m not a veteran of SN . Just been thinking about this as I feel my own body slowing down , especially in waves that require a quick pop & tuck . Talking with others that have had to switch craft , like stand up paddle boards and foils ( they call it the dark side ) I’m still young at 63 , watching older blokes at 76 + , still enjoying getting out there no matter what there condition is , is what really counts, just can’t see myself adjusting to a different craft . Listening to how much they had to learn again , might be the inspiration to keep going, rather than just walk away. Funny how some like Larry Mcgraw just keep charging at 75 without a full on health training schedule, while others simply can’t get to their feet quick enough . Watching an ex peruvian world champion at 80 riding a sup every day inspires me that no matter what, just keep having a go .