S swells in the short term with easing winds over the weekend

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer(issued Fri Oct 25th)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Sizier S swell increase Fri PM, persisting into Sat/Sun as trough/low forms in Tasman
  • Fresh S’ly winds Fri, easing Sat, tending N’ly on Sun
  • Small pulse of S/SE swell Tues, easing Wed
  • Small S swell possible Tues/Wed
  • Uncertain outlook later next week, likely some N’ly winds and small surf- check back Mon for the latest

Recap

E swell hung in there yesterday with sets to 3-4ft, slowly tailing off through the day. Early winds were generally light enough for most spots but N’lies kicked up quickly. A S’ly change spread north reaching Coffs around lunch-time and stalling between Yamba and Ballina late in the day. E swells still offered up a few 2 occ. 3ft waves this morning with morning SW winds now tending strong S’ly as a trough of low pressure winds up off the North Coast. A steep spike in new short range S swell is expected through the a’noon.

Still some sets on offer from the E, clean before the S'ly kicked in

This weekend (Oct 26-27 )

No change to the weekend f/cast. A complex but disjointed low has formed in the Tasman with diffuse centres off the North Coast and Tasmania/Gippsland coast. We’ll see various S swells generated by proximate and distal fetches from this system over the weekend and into next week. 

Under present modelling a slingshot effect from the southern centre will see a sizey, chunky S swell build tomorrow with S swells in the 3-4ft range building to 4-5ft at NENSW S exposed breaks, smaller 2-3ft in SEQLD with bigger sets on the border. We should see some W’ly component in morning winds (SW-S/SW) across the region for the early. Winds then clock around mod/fresh S’ly before laying down in the a’noon and tending to lighter SE-E/SE breezes. Nothing perfect but there should be enough swell energy getting into more sheltered spots to find a surfable wave, favouring regional points and Bays in NENSW.

High pressure quickly moves NE into the Tasman o/night Sat into Sun, leaving a light morning land breeze for Sun (W-W/NW) that will clock around N’ly through the late morning and tend to mod N’ly breezes in the a’noon. Easing but still sizey S swell to 3-5ft occ. bigger sets (smaller 3ft in SEQLD) will tail off through the a’noon, offset by a more favourable swell direction from the S/SE. 

Next week (Oct 28 onwards)

We’ve got a little more clarity over next week’s outlook now as the Tasman Sea continues to remain in a troughy, unstable state which has been a feature of the last 4 La Niña dominated years. 

We’ll see a cold front move into the Tasman Mon, with early W tending N’ly winds.  Not much surf expected Mon, with a low point in energy offering up weak 2ft surf. 

We’ll see light then S’ly tending SE winds Tues as a trough moves north in advance of strong high pressure in the Bight. A flare up of the low near the South Island over the weekend (see below) supplies some well angled, good quality S/SE swell for Tues in the 3ft range, with best conditions early. We may also see some more local S swell in the mix as well. EC continues to suggest a low pressure trough in the Tasman which will see moderate S swells into Tues and Wed.

GFS prognosis is for a more bog standard frontal system to skip across the Tasman, with minor S swells into Wed.

Continuing troughiness further complicates matter later next week with model outputs all over the shop - both run to run and between models. 

We may see a small low pressure trough develop next week followed by a strong NE flow into an approaching trough, or a weak front and high moving into the Tasman. In other words, very low confidence in f/cast outcomes from mid next week. Model tendencies have been to overcook low pressure development which would favour a more prudent approach. 

We’ll keep an eye on it over the weekend as always and report back Mon.

Seeya then and have a great weekend!

Comments

NickT's picture
NickT's picture
NickT Friday, 25 Oct 2024 at 12:43pm

That was a great little run of east swell. Common Huey, send another round!

brevil's picture
brevil's picture
brevil Friday, 25 Oct 2024 at 1:04pm

great dawn session at region favorite with dolphins and lightning strikes out to sea. Consistent and offshore and a great end to a week of super good sessions .

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 25 Oct 2024 at 1:23pm

Happy days!

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Friday, 25 Oct 2024 at 1:26pm

Stayed down the other end last night, proper 30 minute summer thunderstorm, hail, the lot. Beautiful morning, ICOLLs finally flowing and sand improving.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Friday, 25 Oct 2024 at 1:37pm

I picked the right week to get smashed with the flu

daboots's picture
daboots's picture
daboots Friday, 25 Oct 2024 at 3:53pm

What a great morning on the beachies! Banks are finally coming back

Mata's picture
Mata's picture
Mata Saturday, 26 Oct 2024 at 8:03am

I had low expectations this morning, so was surprised with clean fun waves again. Nothing amazing, but fun just the same. The crowd was relatively late for a Saturday, everyone looks a little tired after the last 4 days. So nice to have some waves again.