Low in the Tasman sends strong S-S/SE swells most of the week- favouring NENSW for size
South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Mon Jun 17th)
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Pumping S/SE swells Mon, holding Tues with offshore winds
- Slow easing with plenty of size through Wed into Thurs and offshore winds
- Nice mop up day Fri with offshore winds
- Small S swell this weekend SW-S winds
- Small surf next week
- Tracking low in South Pacific for possible long range E/SE swell medium term
Recap
Plenty of S swell over the weekend in NENSW (smaller in SEQLD) with Sat seeing windy 4-6ft of surf at S exposed breaks in NENSW, smaller 2-3ft in SEQLD. Sunday was less consistent but still with some 4-6ft sets on offer in NENSW, 2-3ft in SEQLD. Very solid today across NENSW with 6-8ft surf at S exposed breaks (occ.10ft sets) under offshore winds. Smaller 3-4ft surf on the Gold Coast with 2-3ft surf on the Sunshine Coast.
This week (Jun 17-21)
We’ve got a deep low (988 hPa) semi-stationary in the Central Tasman with strong high pressure support south-west of Tasmania and a broad coverage of strong winds to low end gales through the southern Tasman. That low is expected to slowly drift and dissipate through the week, maintaining elevated surf through too mid-week with a very slow easing trend in place. We’ll see a rebuild in more bog standard S swell over the weekend as remnants of the low gets captured by a cold front pushing into the Tasman. Plenty of solid surf on offer this week.
Not a great deal of change in the f/cast compared to Fri and even earlier( this swell has been on the radar for 2weeks!). Mod/fresh W-SW winds tomorrow will slowly ease through the day. Tomorrow will still be a big surf day with solid 6 occ. 8f sets still on tap at S exposed breaks in NENSW, smaller 3 occ. 4ft at S exposed breaks in SEQLD. Keep tabs on the late a’noon for a slightly better angled pulse generated by a slingshot of winds around the southern flank of the low today. By close of play we should see conditions starting to look a little more user friendly (still experts only in NENSW) as winds back down a notch and big sets become more infrequent.
Still pumping Wed with 5 occ. 6ft sets in NENSW, smaller 2-3ft surf in SEQLD under straight offshore winds which should tend W and even W/NW through the day. By close of play we should be in the 4-5ft range with just the very occ. bigger set.
Thursday looks cherry with straight offshore W-W/NW winds which may tend more pre-frontal NW or even light N as a decaying low approaches from the bight. We’ll see surf drop back into user friendly ranges through the day although expect some 4-5ft surf in the morning before easing to 3-4ft by close of play in NENSW, smaller by 2ft in SEQLD.
Nice friendly mop up day Fri with swell trains from the SE-E/SE from the various E’ly infeeds into the decaying low. We should see some 2 occ. 3ft sets early before we drop back into the 2ft range after lunch. Groomed by W-W/SW winds in the morning which look to tend more W through the a’noon as a cold front pushes up the coast.
This weekend (June 22-23)
We’ll see a rebuild in more bog standard S swell this weekend as a cold front pushes strong winds proximate to the coast (see below). Expect fresh SW tending S/SW-S winds Sat, extending into Sun before easing in the a’noon. Winds should be lighter in SEQLD.
Under current modelling we’d expect size building from 2-3ft to 3-5ft range at S exposures in NENSW , 2ft max in SEQLD.
Sunday should be similar size with 4-5ft surf at S exposures in NENSWm smaller 2 occ. 3ft at SEQLD S facing beaches before size eases through the day. Nothing incredible but there should be a rideable wave both days, favouring NENSW.
Next week (June 24 onwards)
Much quieter week ahead next week. We’ll be on an easing trend with a dissipating fetch near New Zealand holding some small S/SE swell into Mon, likely in the 3ft range and dropping through Tues. Winds look good, seasonal offshores for the first half of next week, tending more NW-N by mid week as a weak, elongated high pressure system moves across the Tasman. That should see a few small days, possibly becoming tiny into next week.
There’s a an approaching cut-off low later next week, so we’ll tag that for now, and see how it’s shaping up on Wed.
We’ll also be tracking a low forming in the South Pacific towards the dateline this weekend (see below). Models are divergent with EC suggesting the low forms out of the swell window and moves soutgh quickly, not generating any swell for the region. GFS is more bullish with the low inside the swell window later next week and potentially generating long range E/SE groundswell late next week. Long way off so lets see how it looks on Wed.
In the meantime, enjoy the week of waves. Hope your coastline gets a few.
Comments
South swells are hilarious on the goldy, yet it still gets hyped up. 2 foot at majority of the points all day with big lulls.
Agree
Slow sluggish
And a couple ft at best
A fair bit bigger to the north though.
Bigger but also crap. This swell got so hyped it’s crazy. Same thing happens every year.
Its called the interwebs, clickety click click click
Yup
Not overhyped down here. Very solid. 8ft in this region in most places. No surfers out at a point with consistent 10ft sets. One renowned rockwall had 12ft sets breaking 300m out to sea from it. One of the bigger quality swells I’ve seen in last few yrs on MNC. Too much for me.
heavy session this arvo, just kept firing up le-ba area. Not sure how my board isnt in 7 pieces. Great shape though and roll-ins. Serious size
Down on yesterday but still some solid 6ft+ sets.
I think people might be a bit shocked when they see some of the photos of this swell.
Proper, legit big barrels.
I'm looking forward to the video footage and pics!
https://m.
&pp=ygUVSHVnZSBzdXJmIHdoaXRlcyBoZWFkSolid! Great video title lol.
Backed off here, yesterday lunch through dark was on.
First place i thought of when i saw there was a big Sth incoming. Turns into a semi point.
Would not want to get caught inside there by a big set.
Go the tinny towing!! haha
Great fun snapping a leggy there.
Heard someone had a real, real close shave there yesterday.
ah yep, more absolute fuckwits towing between paddle surfers. turned it off after the second wave.
https://www.nsw.gov.au/driving-boating-and-transport/waterways-safety-an....
How about that double barrel make at 4.00!
That would have to be one for the memory banks! I wonder what dimension board he is riding.
Jai G?
He was out there.
You ever surf it?
Yep. Not recently.
But I get sly surfs out there- it's close to one of my fav fishing spots, so I'm always on top of sneaky sand build ups there.
Nice.
Have a feeling there'd be good lefts off it in E swell?
Once a blue moon. Have surfed Indo style 6-8ft left tubes out there on straight E groundswells.
Very high degree of difficulty getting out to it.
Yeh i've been out there when its 6ft+ east swell a coupla times and it was just top to bottom tubes. I'm a wimp and sit and catch them a bit further south though as I'm not that familiar with the rock arrangements that far around.
Good waves but fuck me, towing that is pathetic.
Get on a bigger board and paddle you pussies.
a lot easier said than done at that spot at that size.
I’ve never towed in my life but some of the waves around here are very hard work to paddle.
Because of the sweep?
Getting out, positioning, sweep etc
Those guys paddling in were pretty top tier surfers.
Not an easy wave at all to get into let alone pick the right one.
Don't get me wrong, the skis piss me off and they annoy me in much smaller surf than this around here too.
I could be wrong but I reckon everyone knew eachother and there was a lot of ski/tinny sharing going on amongst them.
If there were pure paddle plebs out there that didn't want the skis then I agree, fuck them off.
Well thanks ld, your measured and considerate reply has just confirmed me for the keyboard warrior hero loud mouth fuckwit I sometimes am.
Towing in 6 foot waves that while hollow, still look plenty paddle-able is a bad look I think but I’ll bow down to local knowledge about the spot and the conditions on the day….
this time!
I'm a blowin and I wasn't out there but that's my guess that they were all getting along.
I've surfed there and other open spots around here and it can be pretty hard work.
Never seen the point here towed and it suits just getting a bigger board the bigger it gets, as do most of the Vicco waves at size.
Goofy, I totally agree, can’t stand them.
But yeah guys use ‘em because of the sweep, water movement and in general to avoid the psycho paddle out. It requires Ironman level fitness.
Or they are total kooks, I reckon most in that category.
That’s why I’d prefer to see crew just paddle everything, those who make it out with their own steam deserve the spoils.
“ That’s why I’d prefer to see crew just paddle everything, those who make it out with their own steam deserve the spoils.”
Nailed it.
Looks to have dropped a notch but a bit more SE in the direction. Getting into some of the bays more today, more surfable options for mortals
Still relentlessly pumping today- some of the most consistent 6ft+ surf I've ever seen around here.
I make that Thurs/Fri/Sat/Sun/Mon/Tues/Wed of pumping surf from this swell with offshore winds.
That's memorable for those coasts exposed to it.
Incredible eh! The MSLP anomaly for this system for this time of year tells the story. Waiting to capture one more day of data and will get it into an article.
amazing! Absolute horse shit one hour up the road for that same period. excluding dbah i guess, but nothing like you got south of bryon.
I know the pain.
Grew up on Bribie, staring every day at Moreton Island wondering what swells it was blocking.
Do people surf at Moreton?
Just beachies?
Surprised it's still that big there. Dropped off elsewhere.