Patchy outlook, but there's a few brief windows to work around

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 28th August)

Best Days: Sat: reasonable S'ly swell in Northern NSW (only small in SE Qld) with winds out of the south. Probably better Sunday morning with light variable winds, though easing in size. Still only small in SE Qld too. 

Recap: Easing S/SE swells from Wednesday didn’t offer anything outstanding on Thursday, though beaches with good southerly exposure saw fun leftover 3ft sets in the morning with light winds and clean conditions. Most of SE Qld remained very small though there were the odd little peelers across the outer Gold Coast points, and at south swell magnets. Today has seen a small pulse of new S’ly swell push up the coast, offering 2-3ft sets at south facing beaches in Northern NSW and conditions were clean through the morning ahead of freshening sea breezes after lunch. Surf size has remained small in SE Qld. 

Friday morning southerly lines at Coffs Harbour

Odd small peeler at Currumbin this morning

This weekend (Aug 29 - 30)

A strong front has pushed into the Tasman Sea, though it’s expected to last only short period in our swell window. Consequently we'll see one day of solid south swell, on Saturday. 

Winds are expected to freshen from the south across northern regions, thanks to a building ridge through the Coral Sea, so this will favour sheltered locations - and they’re going to be considerably smaller thanks to the swell direction. We will see an early period of SW winds in most regions and the Mid North Coast shouldn’t become quite as blowy as its northern counterparts so there’ll be workable options throughout Northern NSW. 

Expect south facing beaches south of Byron to reach a bumpy 4-5ft+ through Saturday, much smaller elsewhere in the 2-3ft range, and across SE Qld we’re looking at a small start, building towards a late peak in the 2ft+ range across the outer Gold Coast points, bigger though wind affected in the 2-3ft+ range at south swell magnets and northern ends. Broadly speaking, expect smaller across the Sunshine Coast. 

SE Qld should also pick up some small SE swell from the ridge in the Coral Sea though it won’t amount to much. 

Wave heights will trend down into Sunday, though SE Qld is likely to benefit a little more thanks to a slight swing in the swell direction around to the S/SE. This should maintain 2ft+ waves at outer points, and the Sunny Coast should see a little more oomph in the swell (compared to Saturday) though lingering S’ly winds may create problems at exposed beaches, and protected spots will be much smaller. 

Most locations south from the Gold Coast should see early variable winds ahead of freshening afternoon NE breezes, and with occasional 3-5ft sets at south facing beaches south of Byron early morning (smaller elsewhere in the 2-3ft range) there should be some OK waves before lunch. However, size will be on the downwards trend so don’t leave it too long. 

Next week (Aug 31 onwards)

Monday generally looks pretty small with residual energy from the weekend padding out open beaches. 

However, although the models aren’t showing it well, a small pulse of long period south swell is expected to glance the Southern NSW coast on Sunday afternoon, reaching Northern NSW on Monday, and south swell magnets south of Byron may pick up slow, inconsistent 2ft+ sets if we’re lucky. 

Expect smaller surf elsewhere, including a mix of minor trade swell up to 1-2ft. Early light offshore winds will maintain clean morning conditions. 

Yet another strong, though rapidly eastward tracking front will push into the lower Tasman Sea on Monday morning, bringing a southerly change and a brief flush of south swell to Northern NSW on Tuesday. Average 3-4ft sets are possible at south facing beaches south of Byron but I’m not confident there’ll be anything amazing, and most beaches will be much smaller, including SE Qld. Wave heights may persist into Wednesday morning but it'll certainly be easing through the day. 

We’re then looking at a period of smaller surf and freshening N’ly winds from Wednesday into Thursday, with swell energy sourced from the local northerly fetch, plus some background S/SE swell from trailing fronts in the Southern Ocean. 

It's also worth pointing out that a couple of mid-latitude systems in the South Pacific are modelled to develop throughout the forecast period but they currently look to be too small, and track unfavourably to the east, to benefit our surf potential. I will keep a close eye on them next week though.

Otherwise, the general outlook for the foreseeable future remains a little bleak, especially considering the excellent winter of waves we’ve had across most coasts. So, keep your expectations low and make the most of these short term southerly swells. 

See you Monday!

Comments

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Saturday, 29 Aug 2020 at 2:06pm

bizarre headlines for the last couple forecast notes.

I see low end winter strength cold fronts, south winds and point surf. which is what we've got.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 9:03am

Did I not hype the forecast up enough?

From my end, the headline fitted in pretty well spot on with the Tweed Coast over the weekend. Only one surfable wave on Saturday and everyone I spoke to had a pretty terrible time battling the sweep, for what were mediocre waves at best.

Sunday had a few windows of opportunity but it wasn't very special (I had an OK surf in the arvo but it was bumpy and onshore at that point). Gold and Sunny Coasts looked pretty ordinary both days too. Today is very lacklustre.

And now we've got small surf for the rest of the week with three and a half days of northerlies from Tues arvo onwards.

alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1's picture
alexsmith1 Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 11:00am

Sunday mid morning was really fun on the tweed coast!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 11:22am

Yep I took my daughter for a surf around that time, though the sand's moved around a bit so all of our usual go-to places are not working at the moment. 

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 11:34am

Another beautiful day, another fun bank to myself.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:10pm

yeah I guess, Saturday was a standout day here in what has been a stand-out winter.
4-6ft and unbelieveably hollow.
Pumped from daybreak to sunset.

I've seen (many) south swells half as good hyped to shithouse.

this one flew under the radar, bizarrely.

Sunday was good too.

not complaining, just noting in hindsight.

You saw mediocre surf, I saw a strong cold front and favourable winds and good to great point surf.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 2:14pm

Rubbish up here all weekend.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:11pm

Flew under the radar?

For the record, the notes said:

"A strong front has pushed into the Tasman Sea, though it’s expected to last only short period in our swell window. Consequently we'll see one day of solid south swell, on Saturday. We will see an early period of SW winds in most regions and the Mid North Coast shouldn’t become quite as blowy as its northern counterparts so there’ll be workable options throughout Northern NSW. Expect south facing beaches south of Byron to reach a bumpy 4-5ft+ through Saturday."

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:15pm

Nah, was way more than that.

It was "regional points will see good to great lined up 4-6ft surf all day, with south swell magnets overpowered."

Leftover sets through Sunday in the 4ft range under a light and variable airflow should see good waves on favourable parts of the tide though most of the day before a Seabreeze kicks in"

Not complaining, the undersell resulted in a much reduced crowd burden.

I just found it weird.

Solitude's picture
Solitude's picture
Solitude Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 6:27pm

So what are you upset about exactly? You did get pumping point yeah?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:22pm

Can only find one video on Insta from the weekend, wave quality looks fun but nothing amazing. 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Ocea Marley Curtis (@ocea.curtis) on

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:24pm

Light and variable airflow on Saturday? Cape Byron was gusting 20kts out of the south all day.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:31pm
freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:32pm

No, light and variable Sunday.

You'll see footage, Owen and a lot of guys out getting insane tuberides.

Some people saying Saturday was the best day of the winter here.

That was local kid Ocea on Sunday when the wind got up and the swell was pretty much gone.

Anyhow, you can be defensive, no skin off my nose.

Anyone getting shacked off their nut on Sat with a light crowd will be thanking you.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:42pm

And there I was on Saturday looking at the surf pre-dawn on the way to work then checking it on the way home around sunset.

Oh well, it's been an epic year, not too many complaints.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:49pm

Just one of those glorious diamond days that slips through the forecast net.

you've enjoyed a few Andy.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:52pm

Had quite a few surfs this year that almost defy description.
Just stay on it and sift through the crowds.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:54pm

I wasn't really paying that much attention other than glancing at the synoptic a few times a day.....looked a good strong fetch.

checked it with a 5'8" and a 6'1" in the car but when I saw the first set I went straight home and grabbed the 6'6" Desert Storm.

Glad I did.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 12:59pm

Punchy 4-6ft on a 6'6" Desert Storm - happy days.

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Monday, 31 Aug 2020 at 1:51pm

Indeed.

(Happyforyou, butjealousasfuck)

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Tuesday, 1 Sep 2020 at 8:24am

Free ride, sounds like you finally scored your very own “Mystery South Swell”.
Similar size on the MNC but locally limited options on that sort of south swell. Sweep was ridiculous too. Not really relaxing in the water either with the near daily reports of Great Whites, not that it seemed to keep many people out of the water, crowds everywhere.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Tuesday, 1 Sep 2020 at 11:49am

I was hoping there might have been a bit of post-event hind casting instead of the reflexive defensiveness.

Anyhow, my money, fwiw and based on the ASCAT passes I could see, is on a captured fetch scenario.

9 whites caught on the smart drums between Evans and Lennox in the last 72 hrs.

I didn't feel that comfy with my son out until dark last night in front of the pub.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Tuesday, 1 Sep 2020 at 3:39pm

i counted 14 on the dorsal site.......funny how they come in waves and all pretty much the same size......shark contractors have been busy