2024 Eddie Aikau Invitational
2024 Eddie Aikau Invitational
With the last Eddie less than two years ago, described by three-time Big Wave World Champ Grant 'Twiggy' Baker as the “days of days”, it was always going to be a hard ask for this Eddie to measure up in comparison.
That event featured beginning to end, non-stop, pumping, massive, clean Waimea. Close-out sets every heat. Huge drops, mental wipeouts and on-duty lifeguard Luke Shephardson winning the whole damn thing riding a Bay close-out set.
Impossible to match that fairy tale.
A north swell with long period meant much of the energy was focussed just north of Waimea in the zone from Outer Logs to Impossibles (Josh Bystrom)
This Eddie was less manic, with long slow periods in between sets especially through the opening round. It finally kicked, straight after a long, long quiet period where Pipe Queen Moana Jones-Wong claimed it was supposed to quieten down for her next heat. Jones-Wong hadn't been able to ride a wave for her opening heat. Within minutes of her presser massive sets began strafing the lineup. Jones-Wong did not paddle out for her second heat.
The day started and ended with a bang. On the opening siren, Emi Erikson paddled into a beyond vertical wall and got pitched from crest to trough. It was one of those wipeouts that makes you wince. Greg Long charged a couple on his last in an Eddie. Slater's longevity, in conjunction with the persistence of Eddie greybeards such as Clyde Aikau, Mike Ho, RCJ, Peter Mel, and Twiggy have distorted time. Greg Long seems ancient, surfing in the Eddie forever, but he hangs up his boots at only 41.
The pace of set waves was slow. Very slow to the point where it seemed the decision to run had been premature. Dave Wassel, multi-time Eddie competitor confessed when he had showed up to the site this morning he was adamant it would not be on. The decision to run was vindicated in stunning fashion at the end of Heat 1 when defending champ Luke Shephardson managed to skitter into a massive bomb, one of the biggest waves of the day. He ran a risky high line cut to avoid getting pitched on the ledge while ten feet of rail line fluttered on the precipice. Shades of Darrick Doerner in the approach and high cut line.
Two women in every heat was an innovation from 2023, where only six women competed - the first in the history of the Eddie. Asked about the presence of women in every heat, Jaws local Paige Alms admitted to “mixed emotions”. Grateful but aware that some of the men “aren't good at sharing.” Alms expressed a hope that in the future they would get their own heat. That seems unlikely with the state of the big wave competition scene today, which is basically non-existent. Jaws is done, with no timeline for a return. A single tow surf comp at Nazare run under the WSL banner is all that is left of a Big Wave World Tour that at one point looked to be a saviour of pro surfing; a chance to finally garner the mainstream attention and attract the dollars the sport has always craved.
Bianca Valenti with a clean entry on a grower (Josh Bystrom)
How did the girls go? Mixed bag but with some very positive performances. Getting a wave count up was the first order of business. Emi Erikson bagged three in her heat, Laura Enever only rode one, but it was solid with the ensuing wipeout delivering a fin gash which ruled her out of the comp. Flick bagged a couple in Heat 4.
For the second round of heats, quantity, as Stalin was wont to say, was its own quality. 23-year old alternate Anne Dos Santos, surfing for Brazil but resident of Sydney's Northern Beaches, was all over the lineup and bagged three rides in a stunning Eddie debut as an alternate. That seemed to unlock the remaining women with Annie Reickert and Bianca Valenti having a great time in Heat 8 and Justine Dupont offering an inspired showing for the last heat of the day to spear four rides.
There's no physiological impediment to women's big wave surfing in the Eddie, the only barrier to growth is scarcity of opportunities. Waimea can't be duplicated and, as Paige Alms said, “why would I leave Maui to come here and surf with fifty guys?”
Injuries and no shows were a crucial feature of the day. Anne Dos Santos got the call after Laura pulled out. No female alternate could be found after Moana Jones-Wong did not show for the bell so Koa Smith got a call. Kelly Slater was a no show without any reason being given for the former Eddie winner's failure to honour the invite. Mark Healey took two brutal wipeouts and had to be assisted to the beach after the second with a busted ear drum. Greg Long pulled out after his first heat.
Mark Healey (inside) goes down as Ian Walsh prepares for takeoff (Josh Bystrom)
It was hard to keep up with who was replacing who - the commentary by this stage was becoming shambolic. Great fun all day as Wassel, Rocky Canon and Kaipo riffed off each other and were clearly having a ball. It was the opposite to the buttoned down fake positivity of the average WSL webcast. The only thing they majorly fucked up on was the inclusion of Grant 'Twiggy' Baker. Three-time Big Wave World Champ, Mavs winner, won everything there is to win in big wave surfing. He graciously allowed at the start that he “wasn't used to sitting on the sidelines” and was hoping for a start. He finally got his start and he freaking charged.
Wassel had the temerity to claim it was the best Twiggy had ever done at Waimea. Jeezuz, go watch the edited clip of him at the 2023 Eddie, or the 2016, or the 2009 version. He's one of the very, very few of the elite big wave riders who will spin and go without hesitation on the thickest and biggest waves of the day. He should never have been on the sidelines with his showing left to chance.
Chance, luck, mana all decide who wins. Camera angles flatten the distances but in the chaos of approaching sets, inches matter. Getting an entry to a bomb can be denied all day despite the best will in the world. Conversely, luck favours the guys who spend the most time on the ledge. Local boys like Jake Maki are comfortable sitting under it and whipping it late, which he did all day, threatening to pull in backside a few times if it opened up.
Pulling into the barrel was a rarity today, with none made. In the post-lunch euphoria of an Hawaiian afternoon, traditionally a time of siesta as lazy cocks crow in backyard coops, the surf started to pump. Australian Ben Wilkinson finally got his call-up to the Eddie. He did not waste it. Charged a bomb, pulled in off the take-off and rode one through to the shorey, which was extra diabolical today as sand had been pulled into the Bay and a steep berm threw an unruly backwash back out to sea to collide with the incoming swell. Some of the resulting collisions were spectacular.
Shorebreak meets backwash (Josh Bystrom)
As the final heats played out it came down to a handful. Billy Kemper had been typically hard-headed in his charging and lead the comp into the straight. Nate Florence was all over it. Both guys had overtaken Luke Shepardson after the lifeguard had a quieter second heat.
Wassel in the booth claimed an unbroken line of big wave evolution and improvement which made me cock an eyebrow. Has there really been a linear progression? Are we any further ahead of Slater pulling in from take-off in 2002? Has there really been an advancement on Ramon Navarro's rocket drop in 2009? Bruce's shorebreak tube in 2004?
Feel free to argue the Wassel position, but to me we are right where we have always been with Waimea Bay: enjoying the thrills and spills of people taking ridiculous drops on giant waves and moreorless going straight, preferably into the shorey for maximum effect. It's good. It works. But lets not pretend there is some sort of new performance ceiling being breached here. The bigger it is the more fun to watch.
That was the best way to enjoy it: as pure spectacle. It was almost impossible to appreciate it as a competitive sporting event as the broadcast and the commentary team lost coordination. The primary camera angle looking into the afternoon sun meant the team had no idea who was on the wave, sometimes even as replays were being shown. Despite the lack of information there was an intuitive feeling that the result would come down to the last heats.
Jamie O'Brien (at left) and Billy Kemper buck-kneed and going straight. Take away the ski, vests, and camera, and its Kimo Hollinger and James Jones circa '76 (Josh Bystrom)
In the second last heat of the day Mason Ho was charging like a hopped up rodeo clown. Both deadly serious as he toyed with disaster and full of Chaplin-esque comic touches. He pirouetted switchfoot, made silly little gestures, but above all rode steep and deep. It was almost enough to win. It would have been if Landon McNamara, 7th in the 2023 Eddie, did not swing on an impossibly late drop where he looked to have poked the nose several times on the drop. After the explosion of the whitewater had subsided the Jesus lookalike emerged Christ-like from his watery tomb arms raised in triumph. It was the days only perfect 50-point ride.
Nate Florence needed something special to overhaul him in the last heat of the day and on the buzzer it looked like he might have got it.
Dropping out of the sky, slowly weaving back and forth through the Bay as tension mounted then a stand up straight sacrificial tube-ride in the shorey. It was a fitting way to finish but judges deemed it after the hooter. Which left Landon McNamara the 2024 winner. Him and his buddies, Luke Shepardson and others, were the “underground” he claimed in an emotional presser to Hawaiian TV. Which is true enough. The days of sponsored big wave riders seem gone now, an artifact of a time gone by like surf magazines. You get a real job like Luke Shephardson or Aaron Gold or a bunch of other Hawaiian chargers and become a family man or you hustle the living shit out of YouTube like Nate or JOB. Still, it seemed a tiny bit much considering Dad was the contest Director.
No matter. The Bay called the Day. Not a day of days like 2023 but still an incredibly entertaining spectacle filled with bravado, skill and aloha. So much has crumbled around it but for now the Eddie remains intact, as solid as ever.
//STEVE SHEARER
Comments
Luke Sheps wave from the first heat was my favourite for the day…never seen someone hold a rail and trim across the lip line like that before the actual drop.
It does seem the format determines an individual surfer needs all 4 waves to be consistently high scores…Eddie picks the winner :-)
It’s one thing for KS to treat the Woz with contempt and no show events but I’m wondering if his “I’m the GOAT…I’ll do as I please schtick” will fly against the Aikau family and the spirit of the Eddie?
Crg I can remember Twiggy doing that trim across the top and then a delayed drop down the face. Just can’t remember where it was? Mavericks maybe?
Steve was there any explanation about Greg Long and MJW not going back out for their second heats? Greg must of been injured?
Twiggy at Mavs
picture upload site
Some of your best work. Incredibly informative and nuanced ...and yeah, the Waimea event is one of few sporting contests that remain basically unchanged from conception.
Time-honoured, as it were.
Beside the life vests and jet skis assists
Quite so, however the jet skis weren't all that useful during a set. More of a help with paddling out to increase wave count.
As for the life vests, well you'd be stupid not to.
Ergo, essentially the same as it always was.
@watttyler, i get your point from a purists perspective.
Pull it all back to pre 1977, no leggies, no jetskis, no floaties.
How many waves do you reckon would have been ridden yesterday though?
No one would be going anywhere near that shorey because without skis, it's a death sentence in the corner of the bay there.
No one would be pushing their limits on the biggest bombs because without floaties, you may never pop back up.
No one would be taking off too deep because without a leggie, you're swimming after every wave.
While i definitely admire and respect the chargers of the past years, surfers whose legacy will always be considered peerless, i reckon yesterday would have been batshit boring to watch if they were all pre 1970s gear.
And if you think the boards were somehow better back then, i don't think you watched a single wave yesterday.
yep
Might as well bar the drones, limit the quality of camera gear, scrap the live youtube feeds etc too then if you want to go down that road.
Ditch the wheel!
Made life too easy..
Life was better before the wheel!!
So be it. I think it's more about courage than the retro aspect.
They rode some pretty big waves. I think it would be more impressive to watch Greg Noll and Pat Curren surf it a bit smaller on their home made boards that they had to design themselves because there was no president.
My point is the boards were far worse and difficult to ride. They didn’t have good wax.
(Or how about jock surfing at night on acid alone with no leash)
People have changed, the world has changed and gotten soft
But the Eddie isn't about memorialising traditional retro equipment or standards.
It's about the man himself and everything he was about, at a place he loved and respected, in the big stuff.
A retro event at Waimea would certainly be entertaining, but the spirit of the Eddie is something different I reckon.
Absolutely @ts, it's weird that this angle has been peppered throughout the comments. If anything, Eddie, who necessarily worked within the limitations of the time, was all about ocean safety.
(maybe an annual gofundme for eric haas to paddle out on a 16' koa log the evening after every Eddie and pit himself against waimea-at-dusk. He'd be naked of course, except for a loulu wreath. All the men's men around the world could rub one out to the vision before bed, and sleep the sleep of the good-old-days).
Eric is a friend of mine
then I understand your respect for current watermen, and for past legends. We all have that respect. And like the dudes that raced primitive cars and bikes in the old days, Eddie's day was fucking intense and required guts and grit. Doesn't detract from people doing it today. if someone like yourself decided to respect the past by having a youtube channel dedicated to recreating those conditions and equipment on waves today, I'd be the first to sign up and cheer you on. Just don't dictate safety standards to others.
Thank you for trying to understand me and not belittle my opinion .
I would love to see cultural events “competitions” where old style equipment is used.
Bring back the traditional boards and add some diversity to wave riding .
I would love to have a 16’ Olo
Belittled? hahahaha. Kleenex??
Just smacks of tall poppy arrogance and disrespect to label some of the greatest big wave surfers in history as soft.
I think that maybe you are suffering from reading comprehension issues.
I never said anyone was soft.
I said that they would drown if they had to rely solely on themselves.
That’s not soft, it’s normal
Backpedalling.
To be expected.
I would have loved to see Eric Haas at the Eddie; Boardies, fins, and a 12'0 Lyle Carlson single. Pity he didn't get the chance.
“ People have changed, the world has changed and gotten soft”
Except people are now paddle surfing and pulling into tubes at 60/80/100ft (take your pick) Peahi. Pretty soft though I guess.
No one doing that in Nolls day.
By the way, I think you’re an excellent troller, certainly stirred up a few here.
I don't count @goofy.
You know it doesn't take much to set me off!
Yep.
ha. Well some people like yourself just ask for it.
Always sniping.
Specific example of always sniping please.
Take your time.
HA!
All the best to you Southern for 2025, hope it's packed with positives.
Thanks Zen.
Very much appreciated.
All the best in the new year for you too.
Still beating that drum Watt Tyler, you’ve made your point known.
Have you got a skeleton in your closet you’re not telling us about ? . AW
Absolutely I agree.
'the Jesus lookalike emerged Christ-like from his watery tomb'? - from his watery womb I reckon - it's Christmas (not Easter) after all. Nice job on that write up.
It's hardly a sporting event. The WOTD didn't even include a bottom turn? I'd put it up the top of the cultural event category though with the Running of the Bulls, mad chaos and carnage makes heros of the coolest heads.
Love it.
Landon was incredible. Takes two paddles and stands up. Check the wide stance, the boy's got some groins on him and trust in the shaper too who put the exact right amount of nose rocker on that stick.
I gonna post a negative. I thought the Olympics telecast was the best I have ever seen. The camera angles were the best I've ever seen but, most of all, you could hear the ocean roar. It was like being there.
The Eddie telecast yesterday lacked the camera angels & ocean roar. It lacked awe. Whoever directed the Olympics telecast knew exactly what they were doing. Surely they weren't from WSL.
Good pont, BB. I heard that there was no on the beach audio broadcast due to privacy concerns, only fake wave noise.
Th IOC did raise the bar in terms of audio/video, but particularly audio.
The broadcast was terrible. A severe disconnect between what was happening on the beach and in the water and in the booth. Wassel and Rocky are good but. kaipo needs to be put out to pasture. Corpo egotistical wanker. Ruins it evey time.
They missed so many waves and more often than not you'd catch up as they were halfway through the ride. Is is too much to ask to see the surfers paddling into position and paddling into the bombs?
Apart from that, heroic stuff from all the surfers. Must have been great to be a spectator there.
Every time I hear Kaipo, I think "Zoolander."
"These waves are much bigger than they appear to you. Even if you have an 80" TV, the surfers are much bigger than 3 inches tall, which is how they may appear to you. That also means the waves are much bigger too. Like at least 10x bigger."
I agree with you Steve that that kind of surfing doesn’t seem to have progressed too much, but really what more can be done?
I’d argue it has at jaws but yeah the ceiling surely had to be close?
Who’d be a ‘pro’ surfer these days eh?
50 points for Steve for daring to touch on some home truths.
Wasn’t long ago we were speculating on whether a female surfers wave at log cabins was surfing, on the basis all she did was take the drop… and heres a whole contest of drop ins supported by a flotilla of jet skis at a wave (correct me if I am wrong) pioneered by Californians on holiday
Great spectacle and stoked that the local lifeguard gets some recognition and hopefully some cash
Kai Lenny doing turns at jaws on a tow board is where the big wave game is at now.
Tow surfing the future? Nope for me.
Excellent write-up, freeride76, and you touched on something that's been picking at the back of my brain for years, as regards big-wave contest surfing.
The Drop.
For some reason, the drop has been discarded as a legitimate scoring "move" in contests, and I'm not sure why a thing like that might be.
Maybe it's because, as you so perceptively mention, it's a total throwback to the very first days of big-wave surfing, utterly unchanged from the bare-knuckle beginnings.
And it's a worthy thing. But people (and in particular those who pull the strings at contests) ignore it, everywhere except for one place, and one place only.
Waimea.
At Waimea, it gets forced on you, because at Waimea, that's all there is. Just a hair-ball drop, followed by survival of the ensuing explosion and prompt backoff.
And when I say "that's all there is", what I really mean is "that's all there will ever need to be."
At Waimea, and the bigger it gets, the more this holds true, it's pared down to its simplest, in the form of the wave's initial lunge and detonation.
The place FORCES you to respect the drop.
And the nature of the drop at significant Waimea is a world-beating thing that stands alone just fine, on it's own, without any help from anything else, and if you can watch those drops being taken and not come away utterly gobsmacked at the stupendous bravery, skill, and athleticism to pull them off, then...
...the problem does not lie with the drop, and the problem does not lie with Waimea, but the problem instead lies with you. With perhaps a little help from the mainstream surfing media.
And it harkens back. All the way back to the very beginning.
And you nailed it, freeride76. You hit it squarely with this one.
And it forces you to consider, with proper respect, what's been going on with drops taken on large waves that lunge and detonate, where the bottom falls away from you sickeningly even as you're still paddling, still attempting to simply get in to the thing, and that vertical precipice yawns menacingly directly underneath you, since the very beginning, and the wave of waves for that sort of thing is Waimea.
The Eddie is the Premier Event. And it rewards highly the rawest most basic aspect of large wave surfing.
The Drop.
Which is exactly as it should be.
And you nailed it, and for that, my thanks and appreciation goes to you for such a job well done.
Perhaps a sidebar issue is how tow surfing has also been partly responsible for an apparent demoting of 'the drop'.. as the shorter boards fit more easily into the curve of a lurching pit (not to mention the early entry provided by the ski).
A fair whack of yesterday's wipeouts were almost-makes except for the nose clipping a small lump up the face, sending the rider cartwheeling.
Which made those waves actually made all the more thrilling to watch, as you knew how fine the line was that they were treading.
Great post @Maclaren.
Indeed, a great riff on a really important fundamental skill.
Becomes even more apparent when age starts to slow you and you can't make the drops like you used to.
Nice one , MacLaren.
Nice work MacLaren , what did Mark Richards say back in the day
" One drop at Waimea is worth 10 tube rides " or something like that ?
You nailed that post. That was awesome. Nicely written.
Early Christmas present; Thanks to Steve, Ben, Stu, Aikau family & the brave surfers navigating the big drops... eg. Russell Bieke deep air drop on a closeout @2.35
Bonus prize is a Tucker Wooding production (must have had elves editing all night)
That's an awesome video. Walshe & Healy got destroyed. Russell on a bomb (near close out). Amazing how on some waves everyone (3 riders or more) wiped out.
yeh, how great we're getting multiple layers of this thing.. and tucker using Landon McNamara's own music.. cool touch. I'm really glad we got to see it live, despite the coverage being a little pedestrian.. liked the loose commentary, and that a local outfit was used for filming, rather than some mainland slickos https://www.saltnairstudios.com/team - we're lucky it was broadcast at all, as others have noted.
Appreciate that! I wish I had some elves! lol
Edited it on my redeye flight to Mavericks. That same swell was gigantic there. Can’t wait to share the footage with everyone.
Awesome, can't wait to see!
Seconded.
Holy crap! unreal, you're a machine..
Very appropriate, The Eddie and Waimea Bay
Meet Pink Floyd and The Great Gig in the Sky,
with the worlds most underrated backing singer!
Good day and opportunity for Mark Visser to make his bold dreams come to life of jumping out of an aircraft into the set of the day.
Watched about half an hour, those dude's have balls and im sure would be great to watch in real life, but it gets pretty boring watching online after a while, take off drop thats it.
Most exiting bit i saw was when the Jets ski got run down by white water in the shore break.
thanks for the write up.
i had it live on the TV with the sound down while i tooled around the house. sans audio i could tell by the fact that he was talking that Wassel was spouting his usual bollocks. good for him.
i'm still super grateful we can watch these events live instead of a 90 second piece on WWoS the next w/e or a few pics months later in the mags. brilliant.
again, thanks for the write up. i had no idea what was going as far as the comp itself goes, didn't really care and it didn't matter but dang... equal parts bravery and skill for this lot to hurl themselves over those erratic and wobbly ledges.
great spectacle.
would love to be there for one of these XXL swell events... comp or no.
I love this recap of the Eddie. The slow pace and development of a narrative fits the rustic nature and slightly chaotic vibe of the event. The Eddie is sacred and totally dependent on the ocean’s mood.
Even got a couple of zingers in there - ‘charging like a hopped up rodeo clown’ and (the commentary) ‘was the opposite to the buttoned down fake positivity of the average wsl webcast’.
I have been reading Tim Winton’s “Juice” which seems to be about creating our own narratives and storytelling to find hope for the survival of our planet. The Eddie must have a thousand narratives - historically and in its current form. Thanks for weaving yesterday’s event into a very readable analysis of this celebration of surfing and culture.
Another great write-up. Thank you, Steve.
I watched a bit of the comp, and must say I got sick and tired of the drop to annihilation (or sneaking onto a dying shoulder) rides. The high point for me was one of Luke Shep's rides, where he got in early and hauled arse across the highline.
It's a great spectacle, though, and there's no doubting the courage and commitment.
+1 for a perfect summing up from Steve. And how good was Luke's 1st? there's taking a high line ..and then there's looking as if you're trying to pull a floater atop a waimea bomb!
Big drops NEVER get boring IB.
Come on now.
You should know that!!!
Great write up FR. I really enjoyed this comp, charging big unpredictable waves, packing huge shorey closeouts, good vibes commentary and interviews (not the forced cheese WSL version) - all of that mixed with the live Jaws insanity and perfect summer weather at home, made for a fantastic lazy end of year holiday day out on the deck with a few beers.
There was a 3 wave set at Jaws that had my jaw on the floor. The 2 ridden waves and the middle empty in particular that bowled and barrelled hard out start to finish is one of the most incredible livestreamed surfing experiences I've seen.
Good stuff Steve. Great spectacle it was in deed, as ever. I admire the bravery of those unique men and women. The women especially getting much better too. Some of those take-offs and drops, wow! Commentators didn't even mention a few of the best ones. With regards to Wassell's comments on progression, well, I think maybe he is referring to the fact that many more men and women are now at that Mt Everest climbing like level, paddling into and riding giants with more confidence. Yeah sure, all the recent technological advances, with safety extras and procedures, much better equipment etc, have made it all more possible. But ah sure, that's progress, right? Have a great Christmas in the meantime. I look forward to reading and enjoying more of your work in the New Year. Cheers.
I’m not a goofy foot myself, but hats off to Landon. I’ve heard Waimea regulars say it is a much harder wave to ride southpaw.
Guess it depends on which Lifeguard Spirit ya wanna stoke...
This here 2023 Rescue evokes Eddie's Civic Spirit...prioritizing lowest cost dedicated Civic rescue.
Here we see a Waimea Bay Lifeguard conduct an actual real life emergency rescue...of his own will.
Surfboard rider loses his board & left floundering in massive heavy Waimea surf...
Lifeguard springs into action with a rescue tube to rescue the Boardrider...(Gotcha!)
Brilliant Job...fantastic Waterman in true Eddie Spirit.
Only! As all here know ...unlike most beachgoers > Boardriders fear heavy shorebreaks.
The Cowardly "Helmeted" boardrider refuses to give the heavy shorie a bash & Pikes out.
So they gotta order in a Posh boardrider's Limo > Jetski...wait it out > Here comes yer VIP Boy's Toy.
LG : "You can't surf out here when it's like this mate!" Rightfully So!...His Grandma would go the shorie!
https://www.facebook.com/realsportshbo/videos/the-north-shore-lifeguards...
So that right there is the Line in the sand ...Waimea Civic Lifeguards don't prioritize jetskis...
So what relevance are 15 Jetskis zapping 2024 Comp with Eddie or Waimea Lifeguards...(Read next...)
1981 Herbie Fletcher was flushin' out the Pipeline with his Jetski...
Eddie's North Shore crew mate Brian Keaulana > wished to utilize the Jetski as a big surf rescue craft.
Pause! All here know that Councils close beaches in high surf...well durr!
Meaning the aim of the Jet Skis was never to rescue swimmers in big surf > but milk Pro $urfers!
Surf Media were obviously leading the charge to lure Civic Trained Lifeguards over to the dark side!
1985 Eddie Aikau's Waimea Tube Crew sold out to Brian Keaulana's HWP
Not like Aussie Clubbie Volunteers but "Private Pro Hawaii Water Patrol"
Sell out of Council trained Watermen as Hired Guns for Film Units / Triple Crown Pro Surf Comps
https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/the-story-of-the-hawaiian-water-patrol
Don't need tbb to explain this only drove a further wedge between Civil Clubbies vs Hunger Games.
Ok! How or when did the Comp depart from Eddie's Free Spirited Civic Surf Comp to Jet Ski Sales Expo
Why the change from Hawaiian Waterman Classic to Hawaii Water Patrol Classic
1990/91 Lifeguard Brian Keaulana was competing in Waimea Eddie's crew honour...
He was held down twice with even larger 3rd wave upon him...Point of Miracle / Hand of God.
1st real time live HWP Comp Jetski Rescue in a Pro Surf Comp + Saving the Head Lifeguard's Life!
https://www8.honolulu.gov/hosd/history/#:~:text=1968,to%20work%20the%20N....
1992 After Waimea HWP Rescue > PWC (Jetskis) are incorporated as a High Surf Rescue Tool.
But in any event how vital are Jetskis to everyday Civic Lifesaving Rescues?
SLSA deployed 1969 Rubber Ducks 1973 Choppers 1976 Rescue Board/Tubes
Oz Jetskis were delayed > 2000 (Why was that?)
Oz 2024 (Old school Rescue Boards 40% +Tubes 20%) vs ( Jetskis 20% IRB 12%)
2024 Jetskis have minimal 20% Lifeguard Association > re : Drones > Very Expensive = Few VIP Crew!
So not really a thing then....well perhaps unless every nipper can afford one...then, need a bigger ocean?
Civic Waterman LG Comp > 1990 onward rebranded jet propelled Pro assist Lifeguard Comp
In fairness boardriders can celebrate Waimea Event as first motorized Jetski assist comp.
Just pointing out as to why crew may see it as an "officially sanctioned" giant Jetski themepark...
Coz it has dual Waimea Lifeguard crew Cred...both in Waterman Sprit > Watertech Spirit...Got it!
15 Jetski hoons relay 9 boardriders to cross off 9 photographers on Waimea Bay Bingo Score cards!
Make a good movie script...[ Movie was called Death Race 2000 tbb ]
Think ya mean Waterworld?
https://www.facebook.com/BoxofficeMovieScenes/videos/jet-ski-ambush-wate...
Crowd are entertained by 10 LGs +20 Comp Guys tripping over each other to rescue empty jetskis.
Empty towed Jetski scored WOTD ...cutting several rad loose risky maneuvers...edge of yer seat stuff.
Anyhow...hard enough to explain to other surfers if it was a jet ski rodeo or a Blue Crush III film set!
There was way less crowd mayhem onshore...All up over 1m watched 4x YouTube feeds
Council/Officials/News/Police urged locals to watch online & Traffic was down on last year's tree climb.
So guessing if they tamed the onshore Shitshow they're eventually tackle the Buffoonery in the Bay!
Bravo
Cheers Watt > tbb is obligated to back up yer Bravo for Lifeguards.
Would Eddie bite the hand that feeds him & cross over to the Darkside...
That's the whole premise of the Surf Wars
[ SURF SCRIPTURES ]
Hodad Testament (vs) Grom Testament
~~~/(C [ Eddie would Go ) > // Line in the Sand \\ --<[](Eddie Would Tow]...
Macho Sticker clash resulted in Cancel Culture of Gritty Jock Surf Stickers
Kooks Spewed out... [ Eddie would Crow ]
Hawaiian Grow our Own [ Eddie would Hoe ]
Monorail Campaign [ Eddie would Ride ]
{ Eddie would Go Go}
Hokule'a (Hawaii's Pride) Written & performed by Eddie Aikau
Eddie recorded this tribute on 14th March 1978 in honour of Hokule'a's Voyage.
Clyde Aikau performs more of Eddie's Songs.
Listen to Eddie's songs thru-out the Interview
[0:27 - 1:20] First song is called [ Kiho'alu] Slack key version of Eddie's Hokule'a (Above)
Slack Key Guitar being important to Eddie during 1970's
Why...Coz this was a cool trad era of locally made GLW instrument of finest quality
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guitar_and_Lute_Workshop
[ 8:00 -9:47] 2nd Trad 1920's song [ Pauoa liko ka lehua ] Home of the Lehua
Difficult to pin down how Eddie's 1970's Aikau 2/3 Bros Guitar version may have sounded...
Plenty of renditions...narrowed it down to 1 of three (Other trio had piano + Solo performer)
tbb is Ok to example this '70's Style Local GLW troupe...forgive any loss of translation...
Just trying to spread Eddie's 70's Island Vibe thru Joyful Melodious Song heartstrings...
Most are sung in higher refrain > lending how the Aikau isolated Guitar licks may have played out.
Eddie's South Africa Gigs + Downunder NSW roving Combi Tours @ Narrabeen
https://tracksmag.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Eddie_at_Narrabeen_S...
Narra School Gig/s
https://tracksmag.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Eddie_playing_music_...
Manly Ferry
https://tracksmag.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Eddie_on_the_Manly_F...
Tracks : Eddie penned + Recorded a tribute song to Oz Family / Good Times
https://tracksmag.com.au/eddie-aikaus-south-african-experience-and-the-o...
Happy to share an intro into Eddie's Alt Musical groove...sorry if it's a bit of rough ride.
If crew know an easier way to score more of Eddie's Soundwave then feel free to share...
So we know he recorded a song about Oz / Family...Wondering how many more Songs he recorded!
C'mon...this dude travels the World playing & Jamming his guitar from Beaches to schools
Just wondering if Eddie jammed with any '70's pros...that'd also be worth following up.
Be cool to find out if Eddie was a secret busker...Coz all this research points to that being highly likely!
Aside from Brother / Oz Family Jams > Several recordings
Interesting Theatrical Musical " Eddie Wen Go"
TV episode all feature or even prioritize Eddie's Music as central to his being.
https://www.honolulumagazine.com/a-behind-the-scenes-look-at-hawaii-thea...
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2488386/soundtrack/
Stands to reason why we got no shortage of Musical tributes to Eddie...only natural.
I saw footage of Ben Wilkinson and Kai Lenny both battling for what appeared their lives to scratch in through the shorey in the Western corner of the Bay in the comp. Both copped multiple huge bombs on the head and couldn't get in but somehow managed to make it to shore. No legrope, jetski or inflation vest was able to save them.
The other day was the real deal. I'm just happy no one died and we saw some amazing rides.
They don’t belong out there if they couldn’t get in in their own.
Basic rule of surfing
yeah wow. Throwing shade on Kai lenny and Ben Wilkison.
&t=1365sKai one of the most accomplished big wave surfers in history. Pushing the boundaries of whats possible. @watttyler. Have you surfed the Bay and been in that position trapped in the corner in the shorey??
I'd be interested to hear your experience if so.
Here's the vid with the two entrapments. Looking forward to your insider info @watttyler as you seem to have an indepth understanding of what surfing 25foot Waimea is all about. Please don't shirk on any details. You've gone this far with your call outs. I expect like a gentleman you'll follow through with thoroughness and extraordinary detail us mere plebs aren't privvy to.
(btw first 20mins is surfing, second 20 is awards ceremony)
I can't wait to learn something from you!!
First, wipe the tears from your eyes and relax. It’s just an opinion.
I’m more than proud of what I have achieved and it does inform my opinion
My whole point is that Waimea has always been deadly and that most of these guys would drown in the early days..
What you posted proves my point. Good thing Kai had his leash and vest before he tried to show off in the shore break
Nothing you posted disproves what I wrote
haha i don't reckon you actually watched any of the comp or the vid i posted.
Call it a hunch.
All the best to ya.
Thanks for this video. Looks like Ben and Kai got out of serious danger under their own steam with a few scrapes maybe. True water-man skills on display.
But how was that second massive dumper that broke top to bottom (19:40) practically on KL's head!!?
How he squeaked under it and got out again is beyond me - looked like his board was only around 8' too, which might've helped in that situation.
Cheers @dingoz. Yeah sketchy stuff in the corner there.
This vid is a good insight.
His 10'4 creased in 7 places!!! Hard to wrap your head around that.
Most dangerous 5 mins of his surfing life.
Says it all about sets on the day i reckon.
Healy probably the master orator when it comes to a visceral description.
Paints a picture that puts you right there.
Yeah, good behind the scenes vid ...I think Kai told Healy in the car park that he was riding a 7'8"!! - so I was close, but wow!
Gotta love the guy on the beach commenting on Kai's travails in the shorey (first vid again), shouting encouragement from the beach. Or maybe it just appeals to my sadistic sense of humour:
"Hold on buddy!! ...one more!
...eeeww, right on the head ....dang.
He's gonna make it!!
Oohh, nooo..."
Yep. Humans willing other humans to live/survive.
It's a beautiful thing.
Great guess on the board. Fark thats small!
Then after the fifth one detonates on him from backwash impact...
"is that Kai Lenny??
...C'mon Kai!"
Kemper gave his own pretty vivid description after packing the shorey:
"I had to shower twice and there was a pound of sand in my wetty."
Nathan dropped an amazing video. What a pro video maker. They should be put in charge of the telecast.
?si=A2dpDWaGaRa7C9IBThis was up there with his best yet.
I got all over chicken skin when he was walking down the road on the way to his heat with the crowd either side of him cheering him on.
It’s fully like the gladiators going out to battle in ancient times.
The music, the camera angles, the fucking massive waves.
So epic on the tv instead of watching on your phone.
Might have to go watch it again I’ve worked meself up into a fizz
Watched it last night- captures so well the in and outs and behind the scenes. Condensed it showed just how intense the whole comp was.
Nate Florence is about the only vlogger I can watch.
That is a great video BarbB , really enjoyed it . I read a post from Matt Bromley where he said he copped the worst wipeout of his life , popped 2 canisters and was still held down for 20 seconds. From watching his YouTube wipeout reel, that’s a big statement .
What a pussy @supafreak.
He should have died so we could reminisce about the good old days.
Fucken lame.
Hows that old timer Ross Clarke Jones using flotation vests when he surfs big waves after a life of hold downs and beatings without one. Another pussy.
Worlds gone soft.
Bring back the flintstones cars and spam in a can on toast.
can't imagine what Eddie would make of us broadcast-watchers wanting to make it riskier than need be for people competing in dangerous surf.
I'm actually annoyed that they dared to broadcast it in colour! Or broadcast it at all. I was all primed by my transistor waiting for the live feed before someone on swellnet ruined my day and posted a live video feed to it! Seriously??
Not having colour TV until 1975!?
Why are you people so slow?
Since Internet forums I’ve learned that Australia has a very soft surf culture.
Masculinity is not a part of it.
I had always thought that Australians were hardcore.
Maybe it’s a east cost thing
I think your desired chest-beating machismo is more prolific in places where little boys grow up with a lack of intelligent, caring, male role models in their daily life. Rest assured, we have plenty of hardcore people in Aus, masculine and feminine.
And it's not their fault, but unfortunately we do also have the forever-14-year-olds with a chip on their shoulder and something to prove, that you're talking about.
Yeah i dunno. You could be right but i don't spend too much time thinking about surfculture. Just whatevers in front of me.
Surf culture,
Does that mean doing what everybody else is doing, and following the crowd around, ?
Maybe that’s why I’ve never taken much interest in it.
In the old days the competitors could swim themselves back in or they were not invited
Yeah and some didn't make it back to shore in the good old days.
Name me someone who died surfing Waimea ?
Donnie Solomon.
Dickie Cross
Alec Cooke.
Suicide
I was going to mention him but thought no one would know who he was
you're absolutely full of shit mate.
Just an online troll.
you and your 'mate' Eric.
Alligators
You're thinking of Todd Chesser.
Correct.
I mixed him up with Kirk Passmore .
How could you now know this Mr Expert?? ^^^
I wasn't referring to specifically to surfing Waimea. Was reference to big wave surfing in general, pre use of modern safety equipment. My mind was thinking specifically of Mark Foo and Todd Chesser - two experienced big wave surfers.
If they had invented the vests we have today back in the 50s , do you reckon the surfers of that era would have used them ? Bloody oath they would have . It wasn’t so long ago that big wave riders dreamt of surfing a 40 ft wave but didn’t think it was possible to paddle into one . How things have changed due to the style of boards and safety equipment .
Nope. They definitely would have preferred to drown.
Eddie especially would have boycotted them because he was a lifeguard and nothing would have pissed him off more than seeing his fellow brothers and sisters of the ocean increasing their odds of survival on the days when the horizon goes black at the bay.
As a former long time lifeguard I can assure you that no lifeguard wants you to go out in conditions that you can not handle on your own .
Then jet skis were adopted for the lifeguards safety
I still think that jet skis in the wrong hands ,are a recipe for disaster, encouraging anyone to put themselves in life threatening situations.
That’s why I’ve never considered buying one.
There is a tremendous amount of evidence that modern safety equipment is motivating many people to venture into outdoor situations that they don’t belong in. Lots more hiking and climbing disasters etc.
I would hate to be such a grumpy old c&*t that my first reaction to watching guys surfing 25foot surf is to look for the faults and revert to the old 'they were tougher in my day' spiel.
Yes mate. You're hardcore. More hardcore than any of the Eddie competitors.
Shame you've gotta tarnish what was a brilliant day of surfing, and one that noone died in.
Who said that was my first reaction?
It’s extremely impressive what they are doing today.
I would hate to be so soft that any opposing opinion made me cry.
Yes, people were more resilient in the past. They had to be.
Pete Mel, Nathan etc bunch of dudes today are Mad man even with a vest
Wattt ever champ.
Happy trolling.
*bet you didn't even watch a second of the comp.
Don't even start me on legropes and climbing up those bastards to reach oxygen. Lame.
And just havin a larf @watttyler. Your post actually made me think a little bit and probably concede you are right in some respects. I still think of surfers like James Jones, Darrick Doerner, Eddie and Clyde, Foo, Bradshaw, Reno, Jose Angel, and on and on as the top of the totem pole as far as the history of the bay goes. Good thought provoking stuff, but i reckon things have improved for the better, in general. You make good points though and only having a light hearted dig. Thanks for the mind adjustment.
My real point was that the guys in the past were super extreme. and really amazing at what they accomplished and should be not be compared to what we are seeing today which is also amazing in its own way
Cheers Watt...our Local Hodads were the original super extreme being beyond compare Pro Surfers.
Yet outside of this here tiny swellnet box our WSR High Council SMP Stewards fail to honour Surf Slavery.
Same the world over...All our Surf Cities censor their Surf Slavery past from their precious Gromz...Shh!
All ya get is a fuck-arse Pool Toy Sticker museum devoid of 10,000's years local Surf / Craft history!
Hodad Tribal Council restamping fake surf Stickers in moulds of their own Golden Breed...Dead set Kooks!
If ya can't emboss it on a Surf Merch sticker it ain't going in the ai Bunning's Boyz Toyz Aisle...Jock's LAW!
1829 Goldie WSR Pros got mangled on the triangles of Moreton Bay.
Axe yer own Vine wrapped Cedar Tree > Taut Vine rope yer Log Surf Craft thru yer Ankle Chains.
Tide surf out The Tweed Bar > slot the Big Wet Swell Sweeping all Points North thru Goldie WSR.
Surf thru Mouth of Bay wreckage'n'hook tides to end 100km WOTD at Dunwich Wharf surfcraft racks
Pro Surf Craft was concertinaed aboard Mass Surfcraft Hull Ships to Buckingham Palace Trophy Rooms
1829 : Convict Surf Pro prize money = 1 Peruvian Holey Hannibal Head (5 shillings)
1829 : Goldie Pro Red Cedar Surf Craft fetched around $1,500 then or about $50,000 in today's money.
Intact...reckon it would fetch $Millions in o/s seafaring museum...sadly not our Goldie Surf Museum...
Local Surf Council Industry Golden Breed Hodad Reps be Like...
* Where's it's sticker?
* That's not a proper Leggie!
* Get this Goldie Hodad Surfcraft outta here
* Stoked with our Yuppie Peruvian exact copy of Tassie 1st Nation Intercontinental Surf Safari Craft.
Q: If yer wondering what use is 100km WOTD Prize Money to a 1829 Goldie Pro Convict Surfer?
A: If ya lost any Surf Merch along yer ride, you'd need to bribe Ol' Bumble from sipping cans of yer Blood.
Lost Merch Penalty : 300 lashes of the Man'O' War Cat of 12 tails ( Brizzo's likely used their pet Irukandji.)
4x L/R Scourgers would tag team up to 3,300 lashes on a good day
1829 Surf Merch :
Axe / Blanket (Often Snatched by Local crew) Waterproof Cap / Shoes...Often lost Surfing thru Seaway
(Goldie WSR Mandatory Leggie Rule ) Loops thru yer Vine -Taut Raft...No bailing on Wipeouts!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50322825917_c9af99cca6_n.jpg
Real Proper Aussie Hodad tuff Surf Song : { Mangled on the Triangles of Moreton Bay }
Amusing discussion,
My point still stands I think. Unlike other areas of surfing, Waimea is essentially the same game as it ever was - a made wave at 20'+ gets it done ...25'+ and you're a legend.
Here's a couple of short historical articles to further the conversation:
https://clubofthewaves.com/feature/big-wave-surfers/
https://tracksmag.com.au/brock-little-and-the-greatest-tale-ever-told-42...
And you forgot Brock Little. He was the young charger amongst the established Waimea crew late eighties.
haha don't worry. I remembered Brock after i posted that and gave myself an uppercut. Considering i used to have that poster of his drop on my wall as a grom and considered it my most treasured possession, it was an innocent oversight!
Da Bull too for paddling out in the first place. So many more also but Brock was a bad miss.
In 1929 the Duke rode a 20’ wave outside Waikiki for over a mile .
The origins of big wave riding is with the Hawaiians
No argument at all there.
I still thought N Flo won the day overall.
Enormous!
Wave of the day I thought
Ben Wilkinson went vest-less, got a feeling RCJ did too. Didn’t notice anyone else doing it though.
Seen RCJ in huge Vicco wearing a vest.
Bizarre how little fanfare there is for Ben Wilkinson considering how much of a charger he is. A full meat and potatoes Aussie Icon.
He was in a previous Eddie too.
p.s: had to rewrite this msg three times...hence it's the season to be jolly!
RCJ and Ben are the last men standing.
Ben gets a lot of respect on the NS
Sunny went vestless and I think leashless in his last Eddie
MMmm- i get what your point is. Seatbelt or no seatbelt?
The point is that people are riding bigger waves in 2024 than before vests and skis.
But in what they where achieving in the past was far greater and more dangerous and they should be getting the respect for that and not be compared to someone like Laura Enever who is completely dependent on safety equipment and not her own skills in the ocean .
Eddie was a lifeguard not a babysitter
As i said i get your point. i agree.
I put my seat belt on before I start the car
Anybody surfing these waves in the 50s ? No need to answer .
Bigger does not mean more dangerous in this situation , there is like 15 jet skis in that photo.
No one has to save themselves
You sound well ard
?si=y2n4QX-JlCqwDbwrThere’s a science to fear
It plagues my mind,
And it keeps us right here,
And the less we know,
The more we sit still,
And my babies stuck on a road,
Which leads to Nowhere, Nowhere, Nowhere,,
Nowhere.
It's a fascinating subject Jeffy.
Something i'm very interested in.
Hope you had a great Chrissy mate.
Yes 50ft Waimea and Temper Trap,
fascinating subjects.
Thanks , received a waterproof sports watch,
great now I can check my heart rate, when I’m copping a 2 wave hold down at Waimea ,!
Hahahahaha!
Gold!!
https://surfd.com/2018/09/seven-surfers-who-have-died-while-surfing/
No one called me out on the old on the old helicopter rescues at Waimea ?
C’mon people. Know your surf history .
Anybody remember the footage of Titus with his snapped femur floating next to him for 40 minutes before the helicopter picked him up.?
So gnarly .
I think the point is that the pioneers of big wave riding in the 60s and today’s hellmen ,
both faced the same forces of nature,
but the pioneers in the 50s ? , and 60s were exposed to a lot more unknowns,
Not knowing if they could even survive a wipeout that big,
Not knowing if they would be noticed or rescued, if swept out to see or onto rocks,
or even if they could be rescued ?
Today’s big wave riders have everything worked out, from years of experience.
To their credit.
And it was the courageous pioneers of big wave riding in the 50s ? and 60s .
that paved the way. and started the ball rolling, for today’s Hellman at Jaws and Nazare, so maybe they are one and the same and shouldn’t be compared.
Well said ...basically the point I've been trying to make.
Pretty sure there was a chopper rescue pre that comp too. Maybe in one of the old Billabong comps?
From memory Bainy was in the water. Not sure who was rescued...maybe good ol Ace Cool?
Weird Fishes live
Anyhow
Have a Winfield . . . Whistle
Geez that's nuts!!! If ever there was a time for a durry. Classic RCJ! haha
Appartently Laura Enever's leg wound was just cms from her femoral artery also. Two lucky escapes.
That is from wearing a leash.
He wouldn’t have been anywhere near his board after that fall if he wasn’t strapped to it
haha.
I see Watts points being pretty reasonable in this discussion .
Nobody used to showboat pulling into closeouts for the crowd knowing they can be saved (really either hurting yourself or breaking your board which you could as easily do paddling out or back in )
Only surfers that could (or at least thought they could ) swim back in would surf those waves (hail Cris Owen's)
Floatation made it safer but has made it a spectacle and somewhat fake.
Tow surfers from Europe , youtube influencers and surfers who have never surfed Waimea get invited to prestigious paddling events while real maniacs like Twiggy are alternates?
Safe big wave surfing for the modern generation
Not trying to make it sound macho , just how it was and now is not anymore .
Valid points, but the actual wave-riding part - the meaningful bit, is essentially the same as the old days ...except for the shorey closeouts, granted (Bruce was the first to do it that I know of).
But I didn't see too many jet-ski "saves" going on in the corner, so it didn't seem to be a factor in the decision to ride the reform all the way. Have to ask the individuals involved why. My guess, cos it's a thrill.
Hey MH. Hope you had a good chrissy.
Yep as i've mentioned several times above, i don't disagree at all with the point about things being different and it was a completely different ball game back in Eddies era.
But in regards to the Eddie contest itself, some of the above comments do come across as bit of chest beating.
The comps been around since what, 86? Legropes were most likely used by most competitors in that comp and definitely have ever since.
Jetskis have been used to varying degrees since probably the late 90s Eddie and waterpatrol have been ferrying surfers for the better part of the 2000s.
Inflation vests have featured in the last 3 Eddies...even Mike Ho succumbed to one in the last one.
All these are advancements in safety (so as to hopefully not die) that have been willingly taken up by competitors, not enforced on them. So far i don't recall any of them complaining about it
Which is where i'm angling at.
As you and i know from living on this coast if you can't get back in, you don't go out. Because nobody will save you. I love that about surfing.
But the Eddie is a celebration of a great waterman yes, but also aloha and connection with the ocean, family and other surfers.. Which seems to have been lost a bit in this discussion.
All of the competitors are great watermen and women. Im sure they have the capacity to save themselves if need be, but no probs to have the extra precautions right?
I've no problem with people taking precautions. It's still good to watch as is, but I would prefer and would be more impressive to watch without the skis and vests. Obviously far fewer waves would get caught, but more skill and courage for the ones that are is the point. Calling it macho or chest beating, I don't see it like that at all.
I agree with spud, southern and MH.. it all makes sense, all the views.. to clarify, I don't think watermen/women making their own call regarding how they engage with the surf is macho or chest-beating, I think couch-surfers watching a free Aikau event that is about the tradition of 'aloha and connection with the ocean, family and other surfers ^' calling it soft, and dictating how it 'should be done' is.
By all means, call for an event using traditional equipment, sounds awesome, but why put down and hijack this event while doing so? Such a Lucy move.
edit: how interesting would it be to see who'd sign up for a 'trad equip' event, and sign the safety waver..?
You definitely take viagra
pull your cap round the right way mate,
your dick's showing.
Old watt Tyler walking around the USA with the open neck trousers on looking for work..
Wild day! Happy for them getting to run in conditions like that.
The youtube creator content coming out of it has been amazing. Really shows how its so hard for the actual event coverage to compete with the personal experiences recorded close up.
Are surfers on the WSL allowed to cover their comps in the same way Nate covered this and pipe masters?
Obviously all the safety gear should be used nowadays,
But the question might be, were the guys surfing big waves before all the safety equipment was available, more courageous and passionate than some of today’s big wave riders?
That’s the question.
Its a fine line between courage and naivety. I don't think human nature has changed much.
Having said that, there is still a lot of big wave/ dangerous slab surfing , that goes on today with no safety equipment ,
I don’t think Nathan Florence travels the world with a jet ski, and he solo surfs some pretty dangerous locations.
WTF! THE Eddie ran, and I had no idea it was on!
Ah well, should be back working full-time, then I could watch a surf contest in peace.
As it was I was 2 weeks into a 2 and a half week cold from hell, trying to move back into a house after 5 month renos, and setting up a couple of rooms for our family Xmas lunch on Xmas eve. No wonder I missed the whole effin thing.
3 rooms painted and moved into, 4 to go, stuff in the garage that will take a month to move back in after I finish the painting. No wonder I've been off thre radar.
Cheers Steve, and happy new year to all contributors, and the trolls too. I'll come after you next year.
great write up!