The Flyer Has Been Grounded
The Flyer has been grounded, but only temporarily.
You may have noticed it didn't arrive last week, and today I’ll explain why. It's not strictly surf related so bear with me.
Two weekend’s back, after giving wings to our little newsletter, I went for a mountain bike ride in the hills behind our house - cue ominous music. I wasn’t feeling particularly daring or frisky, yet I came unstuck trying to clear a set of doubles. Came unstuck in a big way.
Recollections are hazy, but recall tells me my head hit the ground first yet, for better or worse, it didn’t break my fall. My collarbone did that, and so too did my whole right rib cage.
I had the wind knocked out of me and while trying to suck in air came the realisation something was very wrong. I could breathe, but holy Ganesha did it hurt.
X-rays revealed the extent of the damage: one busted collarbone, six broken ribs, five of those broken in two places. A healthy dozen bone breaks.
Thus began a week-long visit to Wollongong Hospital’s Acute Surgical Unit, AKA the pain unit, AKA the zombie ward, where patients are afforded distance from their discomfort by self-administered opioids.
I’m back home now but still on the meds. Lucid moments have been rare; it’s either physical distress or mental fog - not much time spent in the middle. And at any rate, I’m right-handed and that arm is out of action.
All of which explains why last week’s Flyer never took flight, and also why editorial on the site has slowed down. I’d like to say that this week there’ll be a return to normal transmission but I've a feeling it’ll be gradual. Fortunately the forums keep dishing up the entertainment.
And my return to surfing? Who knows..? But suffice to say I'm not concerning myself with the 14 day forecasts just yet.
- Stu
(The Flyer is Swellnet's weekend newsletter that gets sent to subscribers and occasionally appears here on the site too)
Tom Hoye: Why stop at four?
It was with sadness that I heard of Tom Hoye's death late last month. One of many talented Americans who emigrated to Oz in the late-60s, Tom put a lot of distance himself and the slow creep of civilisation, setting up base in WA's south-west.
Two years ago we sat down for an interview and Tom took me on many a digression, every one of them worth the detour. At one point he abruptly stopped a story, looked me in the eye and asked: "Stu, d'ya wanna hear some poetry?"
Unfortunately, Tom's composition didn't make the final cut, but many other episodes of a life well lived are contained within. Vale, big fella Read More >
Shark attack survivor wins legal exemption to keep tooth embedded in surfboard
It was already a lop-sided exchange: a whole leg for a single tooth, but when Chris Blowes tried to complete the transaction he came up against the folly of bureaucracy. Fortunately common sense won out. Read More >
Watch: May the Fourth be with you, at pumping Burleigh
Videos like this don't make my convalescence any easier...
All week the Queensland and northern NSW coast pumped, but Tuesday at Burleigh was something very special indeed. Read More >
Watch: Weird Waves // The Nightriders
Back for his third season, Dylan Graves is still seeking out the quirky corners of surf culture.
This episode is about night surfing, something most surfers will have attempted, usually with little sucess. Graves brings a varied approach to the topic: a dash of science, a shot of dutch courage, and a dollop of family man practicality. Read More >
Watch: Maps of Home featuring John John Florence
If on the off chance you haven't yet seen this, I implore you to find the biggest monitor in you house, park your arse in front of it, and press play.
No words an a screen can match the majesty of John's first session here.
I'll get out of your way now. Read More >
Comments
Are X-Ray scans impressive for broken ribs? My mind conjures up a mess of bones pointing in different directions, but I suppose it's more likely that each break would show a 'crack'.
Modern X-rays are impressive in general. I had some taken that showed up my bones as if they were on display at the local butcher. Fucken amazing really, but also kinda distressing in their detail of the breaks.
Heal up quick Stu.
hopefully this is the end of that stupid hobby and you can get back to shredding.
Been thinking about this a lot and at risk of sounding like I'm either beating my chest or perhaps ungracious to the people who've been inconvenienced by my injury, I'm going to keep riding.
There'll be a recalibration of risk, the wheels might spend more time on the ground, but they'll keep rolling.
Rediscovering MTB was the very best thing that happened to me in 2020. Yeah, like surfing slabs there's the addictive thrill of dancing close to the flames but not getting burnt, but if that's all MTB offered I wouldn't persist - it's just a more dangerous proxy of something I already do.
More profound was making discoveries in the bush behind our place, which was a working mine from 1907 to 1960, seeing how the hill was once industrialised and now rewilded, and also the broader Illawarra Escarpment, which I'm fascinated by and can now access with my MTB.
Whether it be observing the coal seams cutting to the surface, various types of bushland you ride through, similarly the various types of soil and their properties we can build with, or just observing drainage patterns off a trail you've built, there are lessons abounding. May sound pretentious to some but I imagine you could appreciate all that. My eyes are open to my backyard in a way they've never been before.
Also, I started to get into MTB racing again (which I did back in the 90s) and realised it makes much more sense than surf competitions. I'm competitive in the surf, always have been, but surf comps are a terrible analog for real surfing. I like sitting deep, I like competing for sets, I like pushing myself in ways I think most hardcore surfers can relate but which surf comps fail to replicate.
In contrast, MTB racing, particularly enduro, is almost identical to what most riders are doing every Saturday morning. It makes sense. Ain't no need to squeeze it into a box it doesn't narurally fit. I have much more fun at MTB races than any monthly pointscore, even those when the point is firing.
Also, the milk of human kindness flows a bit more freely on the trails. I've surfed my whole life, so I know full well how misanthropy is baked into the surfing cake. It's simple: more people equals less waves for you and reduced enjoyment for everybody. There's just no getting around it.
Yet when you come across another crew on the trails the default reaction is joy not suspicion. Ask about the state of the trails they've ridden, make congenial small talk, no need to put the guard up, see how many people they have in tow and wonder if they're all going to paddle out at once.
I'm not naturally guarded, but after forty years of surfing that instinct is finely honed. I tell you, it's an immense relief to have an outlet where contact with strangers is akin to childhood: I've got a bike, you've got a bike, let's fucken ride!
In the late-90s I had a string of accidents while downhilling, the last of which - broken left collarbone - was the final straw. I gave up MTB cold. Didn't think about it for twenty years, something I now regret. I must've told my eldest boy that story cos on his first visit to see me in hospital, he asked, with all the tact of a ten-year old, "Dad, are you giving up MTB again?"
Over and above anything written yet, I connected with Sam more deeply through MTB. He does a bit of surfing but it's MTB that sings to his heart and riding with him is one of my greatest joys.
His two younger brothers recently traded up to 26" wheels and have been asking questions about what we do up on the mountain. They'll soon act on their curiousity and it'll start all over again.
awesome stuff mate
Jeez you’ve put up a pretty convincing argument there Stu. Nice words
That's a slick post for someone whacked up on opioids perhaps you're channeling the romance poets of yore.
I agree with a lot of what you've written there Stu. I find mountain biking a pretty great companion to surfing although it sounds like you've gone at it a bit harder than I have. There's no denying ones ability to hurt ones self pretty badly with it though, often from a moments inattention.
It's great how it fits easily into a schedule as well and provides a fun and thrilling fitness hit. So nice when you move into the flow state if you're riding well.
It's also pretty nice to have something which isn't quite so compulsively addictive as surfing, kind of a relief.
Hope you heal up well and get to try that new stick out soon.
If you're ever over in NZ there's lots of fun riding here which can be well combined with a surf trip.
Captured it perfectly. Although you forgot to mention that riding gives you the perfect complement to surfing. Lower body to balance to upper body of surfing, You can do it on the poor surf days, and keep the cardio fitness going to keep you in condition for the big surf days as you get older.
Hear hear! (That was in response to FR's comment)
(Wellington has tons of good mtb tracks, and it's full of middle aged professionals on good govt salaries spending tons of money on mtbs and parts. Some of them are friends/acquaintances. They all end up with fucken broken collar bones and shoulders and ribs.)
I say don’t ever give up one of the best things you’ve found in life. You’re in there for the forest as much as for adrenalin. I surf because it’s something fun to do while I’m in the ocean, but really it’s the ocean that I’m drawn to. Pools prove this. The Japanese have a word for forrest bathing dont they? It’s not pretentious at all to be amongst nature, to explore and take a few risks like a little monkey does. It’s in your DNA man.
Stay busy living
Shinrin-yoku (森林浴)
Yoku means to bathe, Shinrin means forest. Even the kanji above looks like trees if you imagine. It's a pretty new word but people have been well aware of the therapeutic benefits forever.
Nice one Shorey, I'm just out the door to Kaisui-yoku (bathe in the ocean) myself then I might take a walk up into the forest this arvo.
I’m guessing it’s like surfing and the faster you go the more stable you are. Yeah that’s probably it, try hitting that double at twice the speed next time, just to be safe...
Chins up ,once ya get off the opioids the fog will clear.....
'Chins up'?
How many do you think I have?
They're like gins.just don't ask for a double
Five days into my hospital stay I received a text from Dylan Parese:
"I know you're busted up but your board's ready."
6'0" x something x something, 30 litres, asymm version of his Apex model sprayed danger red.
Currently sitting in the corner of my study.
He forgot to put the rear fin plugs in.
Apart from that it looks good.
These assyms look so damn right. Gotta try one
the red 'healer'......
Looks like DP was on the opioids too given the shape of that tail! Ditto FR's comment.
I feel you, Ive done more injury time out of the water in the last 18 months than rest of life.
Once you reach a certain age high impact sports really really hurt when you have the inevitable high impact 'off'!
Currently almost 5 months post surgery and at leat another month before I am allowed back on my regular surfboards.
Mountain Bike stack on the sandstone at top of Mt Narra, ACL and Medial Meniscus. Following 6 months out of water in first half of 2020 after shoulder reconstruction as a result of snowboard stack at Perisher at end of 2019 season
Jeez Chris, I need to divert some of the well-wishing your way.
Heal up, mate.
Broken ribs hurt 100x more than reconstruction surgery - but heal faster!
I agree with your return to MTB - its just a necessary part of life especially when you live on the edge of the bush. But its really hard to get the risk reward ratio dialled, because even if you are not getting big airs sooner or later you get the line slightly wrong and its going to put you back in hospital. I still think MTB is overall safer than road cycling but my return to the trails will likely be more cross country and less of the gnarly technical lines and sandstone features that are the Northern Beaches trails.
Some say laughter is the best medicine however in your situation I'd probably avoid it.
Now, did I tell you the one about the bloke who walked into the brothel who'd just bought a leather lounge suite...
Combat sports, full contact collision sports like rugby league, union etc , mtb, skateboarding, etc etc.
Young mans game.
We're blessed with surfing, great activity to grow old with. Water is soft. Forgiving.
Get better mate! Hoping for a full and quick recovery so you can get on that red rocket above!
All the best with the recovery, how did the bike fare and what did Mrs Stu have to say?
Bike's fine, handlebars a bit crossed up is all. My wife started a new job this week and the injury was met with as much sympathy as I was expecting.
Got a couple of spare fishing rods up here Stu.
Why the old style FCS plugs ?
Was easier to line up the fin positions.
Don't think I have ever hurt myself drumming (likely loss of hearing is inevitable, regardless).
Think I'll stick to that as my extra-curricular activity.
I had to give up drumming got tendonitis in my elbows learning doubles. Was a sad day when I sold my gretsch and Bosphorus cymbals this year. Bought a scorpion 2 with the cash.
I remember you posted on a forum a little while back that it was only a matter of time before you had another accident on the bike, and that you were OK with that. Sounds like you were prepared.
Thankfully your head's OK. Probably would have been lights out without a helmet.
Stu,
Flying on the Ground is Wrong - Buffalo Springfield 1967
Holy crap Stu, sounds like you did a real number on yourself. Heal up and hit the water!
While healing in delirium, here's a story;
a brief history of opium.....
"on the trail of the Milk of Paradise"
https://www.abc.net.au/radio/programs/conversations/lucy-inglis-opium/12...
P.S. Nice board.
Thanks for the link, mate.
Interesting listening.
Take your time and heal up well, Stu. It was great to meet you and you're the best editor in Australian surfing publishing. Looks like you knew it was coming, and that kind of mental preparedness will help you deal with anything like PTSD from a major injury/life threatening situation. Otherwise, I'm not often on opioids for acute pain, but when I am I prefer pethidine*. Ask your health practitioner if it's right for you.
We didn't do bikes with our kids, but did a lot of bushwalking/climbing mountains/snowboarding. Tbh I was a bit relieved when skating in bowls got taken over by the snowboards (although skaters were just so friendly compared to surfers). What you get to see, the "sense of place" that is developed, is pretty priceless. The MTB adventures sound fantastic. Is there a part of the MTB movement that goes slower and just enjoys the tracks/nature?
*banned I think, too strong/good.
Yeah, MTB has an established XC offshoot. In fact, it's probably the most mainstream of the MTB disciplines. However, where I live doesn't really lend itself to XC, which requires access to longer, flatter distances. Here on the foothills of the Illawarra Escarpment the riding is either straight up or straight down. There are some distance trails traversing the scarp, and I'll be hitting those more regularly when I recover, but in general this is DH country.
Was fantastic to meet you when you called in, VJ. I always get a kick out of those introductions, the last one who came up and introduced himself was eratip.
Thanks so much Stu, it was great to meet you. I've hardly done any blank runs up to Sydney since (2.69lb/ft density, oh yeah), for I got into my health trouble not long afterward - recovered mostly! And it was a long road, so take it easy, smell the roses when they appear, and the body will do it's magic.
I noticed that run down from the escarpment was incredibly steep even in a car - I'm sure locals think it's normal - and reckon I'd be ticking the Brembo brake package if I lived there. Full on for MTB. (North East Tassie is excellent for it too - we walked with the kids in to see the Blue Tier Giant, stripped off and swam in a stream and had the biggest platypus I've ever seen sail right past us)
I've sent Ben a couple of Bells shots of the biggest wave I've ever seen, they should be in the Swellnet inbox if you get there. Take a gander at the thing if you wish. Get well mate.
Bet you hate it when you feel a sneeze coming on right now Stu.
Having busted a collar bone and ribs myself I can empathise with you.
Hope your return to the water is as soon as you hope for.
Ribs are a nightmare. Hope you don't get a cold, and don't binge on comedy because laughing is painful. Probably best to give Mrs Stu a bit of a spell too.
Get well soon Stu and good luck with the recovery.
Get well Stu. My cousin recently broke a rib just walking up his stairs and described the pain as the next level. At least you were out there having a go, but now probably wishing you hadn't tried to do a summy between doubles...
All the best with your wings.
I did my rotator cuff and broke two ribs in two places a few years ago. I was out of the water for 6 months and had physio twice a week for another 6 months after that. I can only imagine how breaking 5 must feel.
All the best Stu, good luck with the recovery. Stay away from the Winnie Reds, Dave Chappelle and old Vic Local posts.
Busted ribs, ouch. They can take a long time to come right. I like your attitude RE not giving up riding. A part of me died when I finally stopped skateboarding.
Unfortunately there is no rational way to evaluate risk and reward for most people- even when the numbers are clear. Some people will waste a lifetime on a 1 in a million chance. Others won't take a risk on getting on an airliner. Risk/reward is really based on some weird cognitive filter we have which accentuates the reward and diminishes the risk for some and the reverse for others.
One thing to bear in mind is that most injuries to joints will tend to lead to arthritis as we age. My toe and little finger are reminding me right now.
As we age we also tend to become more risk averse- apart from the middle age bump when fat and bald people buy motorbikes to convince themselves that their life is not ticking away like other mortals.
That risk aversion is basically because we sense we are losing reflexes, visual acuity, strength and don't bounce or heal as we did when we were 20. But some of us insist.
That's all fine but as always, one must be prepared to pay the price. I crashed 2.85 aeroplanes (it's complicated) ran out of air at 30m down and have had a few other close calls. Near misses that nearly killed me. God was giving me a message....and I no longer push the envelope.
The final straw was paragliding and realising one day that every single person on that launch site had experienced a serious ankle or knee injury. Next day I looked up the X-ray images of serious paraglider accidents. Universally extensive, complex breaks (if they lived). Using our legs as landing gear is not a smart thing. One day the air will disappear under your canopy just when you need it.
It's a personal choice but some objectivity can help. Lots of times you don't really have control of what can happen. A mate (psychiatrist) loved riding mbikes until someone else made a mistake. Funny how all that defensive riding is useless when someone just fails to see you.
Woman blinded by the sun ran up his bum. In the fall he snapped his wrist and she ran over him smashing his pelvis. He had emergency doc experience and refused to go under the knife so he could get a life long surgical piece of artistic expression made from plates and pins. So he told them to wrap him up in a big velcro wrap while they topped him up with units of blood for a few days as he bled internally.
Finally it stopped and they kept him flat for 3 months hoping the smashed bits would fuse. They never really did. After 3 months they tipped him rightside up and he vomited for a while then with some rehab he left. He still walks with a stick and I don't think he rides.
Sometimes I laugh at an image of a 16 year boy (always boys) on the roof with his skateboard, looking at the pool and convincing himself he can make it.
Great post. Especially the last bit.
I remember at around 10 years old jumping off the roof of my house with dads golf umbrella thinking I was gonna glide to the cement below all Mary Poppins like.
Geez it hurt.
Ha ha VJ!
Love that movie.
VJ, ever done a desk-pop?
They were so convincing in their argument! They swung me!
I could totally go off on a tangent here (hint: Step Brothers, 'Mangina') but this might be a case where laughter is not the best medicine...
Crikey, Stu, that's no good mate.
I know quite a few blokes our age who've gone back to MTB - most have had a decent buster and spent time out of the water. A matter of when, not if. Having had a very long time out of the water with other injuries, there's no way I'm getting off piste on mine. Though it's always 6ft and offshore when you're doing stuff with the kids, to be sure.
Get well.
Ouch, i know how the broken ribs thing feels, lucky you did puncture your lung.
Board looks sick though.
48yo, Crashed my mtb on Boxing Day, simple obstacle, still can’t bend my knee enough to stand up at Take off. About two months in i took desperate measures and bought a lid. Very humbling.
it hurt watching other guys pig dog solid south narra lefts yesterday. Love mtb for all the reasons stu stated, but after being unable to surf for so long because of it, i’m not sure if i will get back into it or not.
didnt not did
Read the flyer and gritted my teeth hope you fully recover Stu,
Still great to se the "I am a warrior and still charging " alive and well within.
Simple step offs on a mountain bike can go bad in ways you never thought! I spent 4 hrs in Soquel Demo Forest in Santa Cruz trying to get back to the car because of one. All harm to the bike and not the body fortunately. Recover quickly mate, get some lessons off your old man on staying upright!
"get some lessons off your old man on staying upright!"
Do you know my old man?
Quiet, moderate, and wise he may be, but he's exerted more weight on the public medical system than the combined Thirroul Butchers First Grade side. The only lessons I get from him is how to cope with injuries, as I know he's already been there.
Ribs? He broke four when he fell off the roof of the two-storey family home and landed gut first on the front steps.
Thirroul Butchers, hahahahahaha.
for real?
Damn fine week of waves Stu.
today was about as dreamy as you could possibly imagine.
Looked shit on the cams.
Real thing, the footy team.
"Chop 'em up, Butchers!" etc etc
Snag a few tries?
Yeah I've ridden with him a few times with the Bushies in the past. We all use up larger shares of our health system as we advance. I see you're just starting your run.
I've broken two ribs before and it was the most painful injury I've ever had, I don't want to think about the pain your in right now.
I hired one of those recliners for old people that stand you up at the push of a button. It was heaps easier than sitting and standing by yourself and I even slept in it.
Tip: Don't sneeze!
Get better soon.
Cheers mate.
Been missing the morning sessions, especially with a bit of east in the swell.
I've missed it all due to a recurrence of my shoulder injury but am not too worried as the hopeful plan I had the last time that I saw you came off perfectly and I'm retiring in a few months and will be able to surf as much as I want.
See you out there soon!
Get well soon Stu. Your honest and genuine writing is so refreshing amongst all the other noise competing for our attention
Just read about your prang Stu. All the best and admire your getting back on the horse attitude. Saw the x-rays of a broken collarbone I had years ago. It’s amazing how the body just throws a net round the shattered pieces of bone and then just welds them all together
Downhill mountain bikers don't actually look like they enjoy it, says study
Scientists try to explain why downhill riders look disgusted, angry and less happy during their ride
https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/latest-news/downhill-mountain-bikers-...
After a similar list of mountain bike injuries last year it took me about 2 months before I could sleep a whole night in my bed, just couldn't lay flat. The ribs were noticeably improved after 3-4 weeks. I needed surgery on the collarbone so couldn't lift anything over a kilo with that arm for about 6 weeks. 8 weeks off work (luckily I had lots of sick leave saved up). It was about 4 months before I could ride again (I figured if i can do 10 push ups I'm good to ride).
I initially intended to go back to the same all round riding I'd been doing (injured myself overshooting a small double at Greenvalleys, almost turned it into a triple and went over the bars) , and while physically I could now - by the time I'd recovered I decided on a self imposed ban on anything more than cross country and all mountain trails. It's not because of fear, I'd returned to downhill / freeride after fracture /dislocated shoulder previously - more just realisation that it's more important I'm able to work and function as a husband and father. Nearly all riders are going to give up extreme MTB at some point in their 40's anyway, so for me it just happened a couple of years earlier than I would have liked.
Which trail did you come undone on?
Absolutely love Bigfoot, could shuttle that track all day, but I think I may be done with GV. The young bloke, however, he's just getting into it, every visit he makes marked progress, and he's racing the cartel series.
Reckon I'll be happy to spectate.
Bigfoot. I'd only ridden GV a few times so was just pushing up with a mate and trying a feature here and there. I wanted to do the step up so pushed up a bit. That huge berm is way too easy to fly around, went off that small jump after way too fast and landed into the next upslope going over the bars and landing down in the gully before the step up. Not my video but jump i crashed off is at 2:49.
Know it well. Can be tricky getting the right speed to clear the step down but not overshoot into the base of the transition.
Last August I gave myself whiplash coming off that wallride. Last run after a full day of shuttling, cleared the two doubles, road gap, and had a smooth and long corner on the wall but underestimated how much speed I carried and in a momentary lapse of cocentration came unstuck on the tabletop just after it.
Learnt then and there to never call last runs. Call two more then dont do the last.
Maybe the protection vests jockeys wear would be suitable for mountain bikers.
http://www.vipasafety.com.au/vipa-sport-rehabilitation-body-protector-pr...
Ouch! get well soon Stu.
Cheers Mick.
get well soon stu, you are much appreciated for all your surfing insights and banter.......maybe not your MTB exploits!! Ribs are so painful for so long. No laughter or coughing now
I am full of admiration for riders (young and old) who send it. But in the end its all about the stoke. The 5 yo blithely scootering around the flats is probably the most stoked. The extremely dedicated 20-something trying to master some complicated flip trick might be the most frustrated.
As someone old enough to know better, I reckon you can still enjoy lots of pursuits - on the toys you could never afford in your teens - in a more calculated and safer way and still get a buzz without ending up in emergency.
Safety gear, warming up, practice, repetition. focus and a healthy appreciation of your frailty and limitations are your friends.
Cruising around a skatepark/trail with all wheels on the ground at all times can feel sublime. Chipping into a nice wave in deep water at an uncrowded break is also a good feeling...
Sorry to hear about the crash Stu, all the best for the recovery. Was about to launch into a digression about long term injuries, recovery, getting old, risk aversion but just made me feel sad so I'll leave it at get better soon.
Get well soon Stu. Imagine you'll be itching to get out on the bike before too long but maybe a while before you can push it too much. In the meantime you could try bike packing. Basically heading off with your bike and some kit for a night or few in the middle of nowhere. Plenty of mileage in sorting kit out to focus the mind, just upgraded my tent and a few other bits and can't wait to try them out in a couple of weeks. Personally I like researching historic sites, using maps to give me a rough idea of a route, places to camp/find water etc then head off solo or with the youngun and the dog to see what the next few days bring. Won't get the ticker going like downhill but a mini expedition to explore remote places is a nice way to spend some time and could help your recovery/build strength.
All the best Stu , hope you can get back on the bike and board soon .
Whats that quote from Shawshank Redemption , " Get busy living , or get busy dying "
Or, from the same movie- "every man has his breaking point."
Rest well and don't skimp on your rehab Stu!
Hope you can find some ways to stay sane in the meantime.