The Flyer: 'Hey, Don't I Know You From Somewhere..?'
A few weeks back I was surfing the local when an argument broke out between two apparent strangers. It’s not an uncommon scene around these parts, hardly worth commenting upon, except for how this exchange ended.
I’ve no idea how it started and it doesn’t matter anyway - the two were beyond the point of negotiation and into a full blown slanging match.
Just when escalation appeared imminent, a third surfer paddled out, unexpectedly said hello to each combatant. Used their names, obviously knew them, though they didn’t know each other.
A bashful silence fell and it wasn’t hard to read our protagonist's minds:
‘If he knows me, and he also knows him, then we sorta know each other.’
We’ve all had frustrating moments in the surf so I’m sure you’ll agree when I say that it’s easier to be angry at a stranger than it is to be angry at a friend. The rule held true and the two sorta-friends made peace - or at least stopped yelling at each other.
Events of this week reminded me of that scene. On Wednesday I received an email from Emiliano Cataldi, a hot surfer - and hot air balloon pilot - from Byron Bay.
“Hey Stu, just wondering if you have a high res version of today’s Wave Of The Day?” wrote Emi. “I think it’s me.”
When I zoomed in it was indeed Emi. The photo was a classic shot of Lennox, taken by South Oz photographer Andy Smyth back in June. Framed by the crowd on the hill, Emi is making an early entry on his 9’0” Gunther Rohn.
Emi got in contact with Andy and made a copy of the image. A snapshot of an epic session during an equally epic season.
Moving in one direction: Andy is a mate of my Swellnet colleague Craig Brokensha, and he also appears to be friends with many crew on the Swellnet forums. ‘He’s a good egg’ is a recent summation of Andy.
Meanwhile, moving in the other direction: I first met Emi through his partner Taylor Miller when we both worked on Kurungabaa - the now defunct surf journal. Taylor is the daughter of Rusty Miller of Morning Of The Earth fame, and many other things besides.
Emiliano’s name also appeared in a book I was recently reading. Children Of The Tide charts Nik Zanella’s journey from Italian surf urchin to Chinese surf pioneer, while also tracing China’s improbably long wave-riding history. Emi makes an appearance, surfing with Nik on China’s Hainan Island.
Swellnet readers should recognise Nik Zanella’s name as he’s written a handful of articles for us this last year. Always insightful and always well-received, his latest work on surfer and artist Vincenzo Ganadu, was published just this week.
What might seem like an exercise in name-dropping is my clumsy way to illustrate surfing’s version of six degrees of separation - except in our world it’s more like two or three.
It’s true, the surfing population has ballooned in size, yet we also travel more, exposing ourselves to an increasing number of surfers, every one of them potentially leading to a future encounter: “Hey, don’t I know you from somewhere..?”
Something to think about before you next arc up at sorta-familiar-looking stranger in the surf.
-Stu
The Art Of Vincenzo Ganadu
"I was trained in the most traditional, almost reactionary ways of creative work," recalls Vincenzo Ganadu, a first-gen surfer from Italy's most consistent coastline, Sardinia's northwest coast.
Vincenzo renounced the classical approach and turned his eye, and creativity, towards a vibrant take on surf culture. Read More >
Excerpt: 'When The Ocean Awakens' by Marti Paradisis
Surfers weren't the only ones testing the limit during the early days at Shippies. In this excerpt from Marti Paradisis' upcoming book, photographer Stu Gibson describes pushing barriers to capture the inside out view of Shipsterns. Read More >
Photos: Better Late Than Never
As most surfers would be aware, Victoria's Surf Coast pumped this week. Which was welcome, as they suffered a terrible winter season.
Steve Arklay braved the wild weather to shoot this gallery. And hey, who knew there were lefts...really hollow lefts, in the region? Read More >
Also, if you're so inclined, here's Craig's analysis on the why the Surf Coast sucked this winter and what changed to make it good. Read More >
Shark Shield Company Collapse
Bad news for surfers in Selachimorpha hot spots as Australia's leading deterrent device company gets unplugged. Read More >
Watch: Winter Up North
No huge swells - for the Gold Coast at least, the Northern Rivers region copped some size - but the winter just gone was remarkably consistent for an area not known for winter abundance. Read More >
Comments
It happens, but blow ups in the surf are rare where I’m from.
Why do you think it’s common down there Stu?
Or to the greater group: what is it about your lineup that makes it tense?
Testosterone? Male ego? Entitlement? Expectation?
In my opinion, the most tense lineups I’ve been a part of appear the result of:
a) insular locals exuding xenophobic vibes
b) greedy or thoughtless / inexperienced behaviour
c) mixing of a vast array of abilities
c) long waits and small takeoff zones
My go to spot is an urban beachie. I tend to surf the same general stretch at the same time, so there is a high proportion of familiar faces which seems to reduce the tension - I rarely see any aggro, despite the fact that when good, it gets pretty busy. However, if I surf the same spot at a different time of day, it feels different. Particularly on those rare all day offshore days, the after work shift seems have a lot more latent tension - like everyone is trying to get as many as they can before dark, and everyone else is therefore simply an opponent. It is also a very different crew - a lot more younger guys who presumably start work early and so aren't usually there for the dawnie, and so total testosterone levels are maybe higher? Or perhaps it reflects the fact that, in that context, I'm more of an outsider than normal, and so notice things I don't otherwise see?
Maybe that’s why Angourie , has it’s fair share of aggression, because it’s a relatively short wave , with lots of locals
Compared to the Snapper through to Kirra section, which has lots of room to spread out and lots of non locals.
I don’t find Angaz too bad. There’s a spot nearby that is much worse.
Yes, I haven’t surfed it for a while, so you’re probably right
Just going off some early memories of aggro guys,and what happened to Nat Young
Wouldn't say it's common, though I guess it happens enough not to be newsworthy.
Reasons..?
Not sure, but maybe having a long and storied history of localism (the good and bad kinds) casts a bit of a shadow. Also, easy access to Sydney surfers during certain swell events wouldn't help. Put together I guess it means that surfers aren't shy to pipe up when the rules have been bent or broken.
It's no place for shrinking violets, and I kinda like it that way.
Really, most people just want to surf, not police the place.
I saw Emi paddle into that one- looked a lot bigger from the water!
On a 9'0. . . Have never seen Em on anything but a Sub 5'10 Fish
Must be some Footage around of this Day Showing Em on the Gun
Freeride did you go Lennox Cultural Centre last Night ?
Nah, not really interested in paying money to hear Rob Machado do a Q and A about Endless Summer.
Hahaha... my thoughts exactly, pleasing to know that I am not alone... why is Rob Machado in oz to talk about Endless Summer? ... fantastic surfer - one of my all time fav's, just behind Curran - but what a flog... açai bowls, beer, tequila, greenwashing, asian slave labour surfboards, endless summer... sally fitz on peptides... quiet sad really :(
Yep, surf movies tend to be accompanied by lectures these days, exactly why I avoid these types of events
Definitely less than 6 degrees in the surf world. It'd be an interesting experiment to put everyone's real names (and locations?) on their posts here and see/hear the collective exclamations.
Lanky Dean
Land of turnips
Pleasant surprise to see him on a Swellnet WOTD.
He’s a gentleman and it’s always fun to see him and Taylor around, you’re guaranteed of a good chat.
2 degrees of separation, I reckon. See the same in the skiing world.
And nothing wrong with having an argument with someone you (almost) know :-)
And dream wave, btw.
Wot goes around comes around & tbb can keep Stu's Children of the Tide Rollin' among the crew!
Children of the Tide Video (Reveal)
Mentions tbb's Twin Sister's Surf Shop Boss > Gold Coast Surfer 'Peter Drouyn'
1985 Drouyn pioneered Modern Chinese Surfing.
He was hired to school 20 Prime Chinese Athletes to defeat US/Oz Surfing Super Powers.
Happy to keep secret world domination work place harassment plot in the family or can share...
tbb chooses to share... (No Spoiler!)
[1:00] "The other big....(Nik shares this secret World Domination Plot!) OMG! Quit Droolin'!
https://www.worldsurfleague.com/posts/442752/hainan-history-a-closer-loo...
Yeah right Peter Drouyn dropped in on me, when Greenmount was Greenmount. 4 of us out , small and offshore
Didn’t bother me though , I was a grommet, and he looked like he was having fun !
Sounds very civilised.
Generally, it starts off with a .... "You know this carnt ,do ya?"
I don’t get into arguments or fights with anyone in the surf, and it pisses me off when others try to rope me in after they have humiliated and belittled someone who screwed up.
That’s the problem with angry arguments, they become personal and hateful.
I’ll stand by anyone (who is in the right) but the moment they start the angry hate speech..they’re on their own.
More than once I’ve seen locals who I know angrily berating some hapless beginner parent/acquaintance from one of my kids schools.
Localism sucks, but without it there’d be chaos. As an older, wiser surfer (now) I’d advise just a bit more restraint.
I used to have my say much more than I do now, kind of stopped because even though warranted, I always feel awful after the interaction. I’d call out really poor form. Now it’d have to take something dangerous for me to bother. I’ve learnt to paddle away from offenders and not let it ruin my session.
I’m sure at some breaks , non locals outnumber the locals, so maybe the non locals are keeping it civilised. Because non locals shouldn’t feel as entitled as the locals, so maybe not so aggressive
And, never ask a mutual friend to take a side. It's farken bad form.
+1
I moved away from my home town in NZ at 18 to go to university/have a different life etc and have not really been back since. The few times I have gone home and had a surf at the local "core" spot (think south straddie pre jet skis with less sharks) it's funny how the "who do you know here?" looks get passed around by people who have become locals since I left. It becomes especially funny when I paddle up and say hello to the people they are sitting with who have known me since is was still in primary school and suddenly they are left looking a bit silly.
My theory
I’m a local nowhere,
And a local everywhere
If you want to travel