King hit
I know exactly what you mean Blowin, surfed a little right at the start of the week. First wave was a late drop that gave me a bit of speed for a quick backhand blast that just felt so smooth and fast (which is rare for me). My next wave was a close out and then the tide came in and it went flat and stopped breaking..
But ive been thinking about that one turn all week...
Yeah went last may for the first time. Still have nightmares about one big day at the 'loo
There was a guy from Kalbarri out there that was going the hardest ive ever seen anyone go. Unsponsored, just balls to the wall charging. It was only him and two boogers going the sets, and there were some really good surfers out there, and he didn't pull back once, if he wasn't going to make the drop hed just jump from the top! I'll never forget it.
Ive surfed Hawaii and G-land at the same size as that day and Gnaraloo was 10 times heavier than them both.
Codie Carter I think his name was
He was going beserk
I really enjoy the things you've been writing in the forums lately blowin. You're reigniting some long lost memories that bring a smile to my face. Descriptions that are hard to put in words but capture vivid images and moments thought long forgotten. Cheers.
I'm no Kelly Slater.
I'm not even a Flying Squirrel.
But most surfs, hopefully , there's just that one blast, that one split second of complete control when I'm eyeing a lip , poised from the base of the wave then....
And that's what makes it all worth it.
That single moment that I'll replay in my head over and over until it's a static riddled photocopy of a photocopy.
Till the next surf and that next King Hit that sets my spirit free.
Unfortunately, Sometimes that moment has to sustain me for some time...