What's your idea of a good surf?
coming back in to the beach with a bigger smile on my face than what i paddled out with !
When it's the best day of the year at a spot and everyone out there knows it, everyone's hooting & getting barrelled. Good vibe = great surf
Bishmann, great answer!
My idea of a good surf is any surf you don't have to look at your watch and have to finish up early to go to work or some other appointment.
It changes from day to day and year to year, the idea of whats "good" especially as you improve but one or more good waves. if its crap un unexpected good wave is pretty rewarding on the other hand it can look perfect but you dont get much and have a bad surf & get pissed off.
an Epic surf would be for me, 4-6 ft long barrelling and growing lefts with only one or two mates out, somewhere tropical.
but if thats not happening it doesnt take much to be havea good one, just as long as its not too choppy, sloppy & straight.
Down the line barrels are the Cream. Especially lefts. With a bit of power , in warm water.
3 out is my optimum number. Mates preferably, but any good cunt will suffice. Of similar ability is good.
Lots of waves to get in a nice rhythm. Dry hair paddle out and a nice easy exit.
Reef/ point. With zero current except for a nice little sweep to draw you out of the impact zone if you blow one.
Limestone or coral bottom.
Jacking takeoff that let's you in then straight into the first barrel.
Speed,speed and more speed.
Light offshore. Sun shining. Lots of sea life but zero shark attacks by sessions end.
In a remote area with a crystal clear lagoon to dip in post surf.
Camping on the beach. Fresh water rinse then fire side beers. Fresh ,quality food . Lots of stars but No celebrities.
Root, sleep,repeat.
As long as you get that "feeling"..... That feeling when you do something or a wave does something that blows your own mind.... Could be an incredible 8 foot barrel.... A later than late drop on a shallow reef with barnacles staring at you.... It could be in a 3 foot punchy shorey and you throw a hell hack, destroying the lip to smitherines.... or linking up a long point wave all the way to the beach..... That buzz feeling.... That moment embedded.....
A good surf s is one where I have dominated the lineup , upset at least 3 people and if I can cause a young grommet to cry it's a bonus.
Blowin wrote:Down the line barrels are the Cream. Especially lefts. With a bit of power , in warm water.
3 out is my optimum number. Mates preferably, but any good cunt will suffice. Of similar ability is good.
Lots of waves to get in a nice rhythm. Dry hair paddle out and a nice easy exit.
Reef/ point. With zero current except for a nice little sweep to draw you out of the impact zone if you blow one.Limestone or coral bottom.
Jacking takeoff that let's you in then straight into the first barrel.
Speed,speed and more speed.
Light offshore. Sun shining. Lots of sea life but zero shark attacks by sessions end.
In a remote area with a crystal clear lagoon to dip in post surf.
Camping on the beach. Fresh water rinse then fire side beers. Fresh ,quality food . Lots of stars but No celebrities.
Root, sleep,repeat.
Fuckn hell........... Anything else???? Perhaps internet coverage, pay tv, assorted fruit trees, mosquito free region???? ;)
Actually Sheepy, internet coverage would be a negative , as would TV.
I'm actually thinking of a certain wave.
It is virtually mozzie free. There is no fruit trees but a little mission will see you with access to more tropical fruit than you can shake a mango branch at.
No lagoon either. But there are spa- like rock pools.
Well good luck with that, blowin.... I'd be happy with a 14 to 15, second consistent 4 to 5 foot with six foot sets hitting a left point..... Short sleeve springy needed..... Reef and sand..... All rock on the takeoff... Meaty.... Enough time to throw a major face to water full rail bottom turn followed with a big under the lip snap, then an adjustment 1/2 way down the face into a speed run and looming horseshoe barrel, then a carving cutty, and a 75m inside section that winds off over patchy reef and sand, making each wave slightly different...
Don't think I'm asking for too much......
Ha ha Shaun, classic!
And Blowin, what, nobody to hand you your towel?
zenagain wrote:Ha ha Shaun, classic!
And Blowin, what, nobody to hand you your towel?
lol.... And have his board waxed and combed each morning.... Boardies neatly ironed so there's nice crisp creases.... Still warm when he puts them on......
Pretty much any surf where its shared around; where you're called in or you're hooting others.
Those days are rare so the trips down into the country where the expectations increase as you get closer to that isolated break and then its just you and maybe a couple of mates. You don't need to think of anything except the next wave, hours pass without it being noticed and each wave blurs into the next; and then back on the beach hours later you are suddenly very tired and hungry. Very tired and calm you drive home happy with the world.
Ha ha Sheepy!
With that fresh smell of Fabulon;)
work your arse off all day in 40 plus heat knowing that your favourite break was probably going off all day.[it always does if your not there].ring your mate and see if he's up for an after work.says yes,go down nkowing it's gotta have turned onshore,but no,the planets have aligned and your the only two on a perfect bank and just to put a line under it ,was that the best cheese and veg. pastie you've ever had
Sheepdog wrote:zenagain wrote:Ha ha Shaun, classic!
And Blowin, what, nobody to hand you your towel?
lol.... And have his board waxed and combed each morning.... Boardies neatly ironed so there's nice crisp creases.... Still warm when he puts them on......
Same boardies for a few months no dramas. Stains from various substances more than acceptable. Worn like a badge of honour.
You just described a left version of Gas Bay , Sheepy.
True story Toneranger ?
shaun wrote:A good surf s is one where I have dominated the lineup , upset at least 3 people and if I can cause a young grommet to cry it's a bonus.
Young girls are your best bet if crying grommets are your thing.
happy new year to all the forum contributors
happy new year to all the forum contributors
yep sheepy,true story
sorry blowin,wrong tag.
The next surf.
Head high to double over head, long right point, with a mix of hollow sections and whackable sections, no current/sweep, long period swell and no wind after being offshore during the night.
Water warm, but overcast, setting remote and untouched, uncrowded with jut a few mates but I'm not greedy a few strangers is also cool, oh and important no chance of a damn charter boat or resort boat, or car load of ten guys showing up.
Here are some photos from my last surf. Although not barreling, this is the shit that makes me happy. A photo tells a thousand words.
Super fun, blowin :)
Fun session by the looks of it and crowd was just the right size.
shaun wrote:A good surf s is one where I have dominated the lineup , upset at least 3 people and if I can cause a young grommet to cry it's a bonus.
Just got home from a 3 day new years psychedelic bush doof past Casino and to read that one just gave me the laugh.
Did I say psychedelic....?
The idea of a good surf IMO is psychedelic with out a doubt ;)
I also like tropical rights.
Hangabout, you're a goofy in one set of photos and a natural in the other?!
Is this a case of a switchfoot surfer only going frontside or have we been duped?
Switch. To paraphrase Danny Wills..... Switchfooters are the future !
stunet wrote:Hangabout, you're a goofy in one set of photos and a natural in the other?!
Is this a case of a switchfoot surfer only going frontside or have we been duped?
You beat me too it Stu, I zoomed in on the above, above photos, looks like same brd????
Same head altho I thought it was bald to start with!
Style is similar.
Geez Blowin my own assumption has sky rocketed;)
Like the photos, obviously you are getting great waves, nice one..
You're not the only one who can surf switchfoot Blowin. Here's two recent photos of me doing the same:
Hey blowin .
Were u living around Walpole WA in 2001 , we may have met and surfed together at the bluff in Sept-Oct that year , as u were passing through to work up in the mines ?!
You had a crook ankle ? And your originally from Newy or somewhere similar in NSW . ?!?
Southey ,could he be the Denmark -Bluff switchfooter you mentioned years back ?
Proberly paddling the right before anyone ever towed it
Udo .
Your either a search engine guru , or possibly a better photographic memory than myself !!!! ;-)
Careful caml we wouldn't want to give waves locations away . ?!?
Ps did you get waves as good as u expected in the last few days ? I know I could go a VB or two at this time of day !
Search engine GURU is the Ud's.
Detective Ud's
Watch out;)
caml wrote:Proberly paddling the right before anyone ever towed it
If I think I know what your talking about ?
Then that would be another right that guys paddled before Catto decided to tow it .
Southey, yes photo memory.....nil computer skills... But a Novacastrian with a crook ankle...ring any bells ?
Jamie Obrien and the Point of Switchfoot article.
Your at another level Udes .
I knew I spoke of it in here , just had no idea of which thread .
My particular strength is in data memory , but If remembered half the bullshit I'd spoken around campfires over the years then it'd be quite a novel !
If anyones giving away locations of the right, its signposted in tim bonythons latest movie . My 2 bobs aint gonna spoil it besides the only ppl that read these forums are fading surfers losing their grips... As for james catts ? U mean rotto box ?
Yeah im fading,over 40 with work,life commitments that
do keep me from surfing as much as I used to,but thats my choice.i know you from margies caml and respect your lifestyle,you go hard mate thats
for sure.
You are a mountain bike fanatic with same name as i ?
Na not him hes a mad cunt ha ha.im a ranga
Know some crew from redhead name m
southey wrote:Hey blowin .
Were u living around Walpole WA in 2001 , we may have met and surfed together at the bluff in Sept-Oct that year , as u were passing through to work up in the mines ?!
You had a crook ankle ? And your originally from Newy or somewhere similar in NSW . ?!?
Southy, Where were you camped in 2001 ?I would have been on my way to Kunnunara maybe. You been back to Bluff ? 2001 was great fun. Every time is the best time though.
I saw a post to Karl B about fishing for pinkies out of there. No fish at Quobba mate...cough cough. It's a shame what's going down there . Have you seen Karl lately ?
Blowin . Hard to remember exactly ( too many seperate trips ) . I was either up near the hanging tree !? , or moochin around in just swags near the day car park . I also think we spent some time up at the cliff hut .
Wasn't at bluff long that year though , spent atleast a month at another station further nth .
Almost certain we were there on the day of the Bali bombings though !?
Seen Karl atleast 5 times up there on seperate trips , the last time I was there was 2009 . I'm not exactly sure he was there then ?!?
Caml mentioned that KB had visited him lately and he has posted on here once or twice . So he probably reads this occasionally .
Anyway where we fished was from my boat , was probably a little dangerous and was amazed at the amount of Spanish flag and pinkies we hooked . Although that was 10 years ago .
being able to walk out on my own accord. love to have little 3-4 foot wedges at central coast boxie with light offshore and everyone in watching the cricket except for lovely lady handing me my towel and water telling me she shot so many great photo's.