The lost art of keeping a secret

Blowin's picture
Blowin started the topic in Thursday, 25 Dec 2014 at 6:28pm

I'm a Blowin. You've probably come to that conclusion already.
I'd already been visiting this sweet back water for a good few years before the revelation.
Unannounced and unheralded, laying a few hundred metres from the town pub , lay one of the Jewels of the Surfing World.
It's right there. Obscured by the blindness of Those that Don't See. And Those that Don't See are many. The vast majority in fact. I was one of those unfortunate souls....until.

...Until the close lipped locals got complacent. The actual fella that spilled the beans was an obvious weak link.
Lacking in confidence, though a great surfer and a genetically gifted individual, this gent felt a need to brag about a session at The Jewel that he'd bagged that morning.

I tried to act nonchalant as The scales were cast from my eyes. As his descriptions of the mindless pits he'd been devoured by a few hours previously ,and a few hundred metres from where we now surfed ,registered in my covetous, Blow In mind.

All this time....unaware to the bleeding obvious. I really deserved a decent slapping. For fuck's sake, I can see the wave from my bedroom as white water on the horizon. What was I on ?

Whatever it was, thank fuck for it, because I'm was one of most that bypassed this slice of heaven straight in front of me.

It's not an accessible or a particularly user friendly wave. Far from it.

But it is majestic.

And it's right there. For all to see.

It's not on everyday. But when it is.....

So keep your eyes peeled and your ears open, because they are still out there, those waves that define adventure and excitement. The world still has a few aces up her sleeve. Best of luck getting your share.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Thursday, 25 Dec 2014 at 6:35pm

Supercalifrajalisticexpialidocious

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Thursday, 25 Dec 2014 at 7:10pm

Even though the sound of it is something quite atrocious!
If you say it loud enough, you'll always sound precocious

But-

If you say it softly the effect can be quite hypnoscious!

floyd's picture
floyd's picture
floyd Thursday, 25 Dec 2014 at 9:04pm

@Blowin, what a topic. I've spent a lot of time and effort covering tracks over the years to great effect. Most surfers just can't help themselves blabbing all over the place. Why help them I say.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 10:31am

......I can tell you how not to keep a secret. Get the locals to threaten anyone they don't know and tell them not to come back. Gives the blowins (not you) no reason not to tell the rest of the surfing universe about it!

floyd's picture
floyd's picture
floyd Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 2:33pm

Been my experience many locals (not all) have got the biggest egos & mouths blabbing how all time it was etc etc

Bob's 2 Bob's's picture
Bob's 2 Bob's's picture
Bob's 2 Bob's Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 2:40pm

Locals??? -- Blaphemy Rott claims Local -- he said ..."some of the Santa Cruz locals I know" .....

trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 3:29pm

No fucking locals round here...fucking blow-ins everywhere...and I've not met a single one who can keep a secret, not one!

What's that old saying...only thing a surfer does better than surfing is talk about surfing, yew.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 3:37pm

Come on TGF, you can trust me. I'll give you a nice, comforting hug and you can whisper in my ear all about these beautiful waves you're so concerned about.

trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 3:42pm
Blowin wrote:

Come on TGF, you can trust me. I'll give you a nice, comforting hug and you can whisper in my ear all about these beautiful waves you're so concerned about.

Whisper sweet nothings in each others ears...that sounds wonderful mate. However I know nothing about secret waves, I only ever surf those well known places. I wouldn't wanna raise the ire of those "locals" ;-)

trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 3:58pm

Here's proof that no surfer can keep a secret...this is my little piece of untouched paradise, ya just gotta come and give me that cuddle first and then ya can have the keys to the kingdom hahaha.


trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 4:00pm

But maybe I'm just full of shit, cause I did say I know nothing of any secret spots.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 4:24pm

You sound uptight TGF. Surfing some quality waves will settle you down. Best you and me go on a little surf trip to help you unwind.... to your little secret spot of course. I'll go online to Pacific Blue airlines and book us some tickets shall I ?

indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 6:52pm
Blowin wrote:

You sound uptight TGF. Surfing some quality waves will settle you down. Best you and me go on a little surf trip to help you unwind.... to your little secret spot of course. I'll go online to Pacific Blue airlines and book us some tickets shall I ?

Yeah go on a surf trip to escape blown secrets and crowded line ups to find your tropical island secret spot has a newly built surf camp out the front of it, they've renamed the wave after themselves, and your now sharing a line up with a dozen middle aged cashed up surfers, who think they have more right to the waves than you because there paying $500+ a night, while on the other side of the island the local village people are using the beach for a toilet and fighting to put a little rice and fish on there plate.

simba's picture
simba's picture
simba Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 7:17pm

Yeah indo spot on,and your the outsider even though you surfed the spot for years with no one around....shhhhh dont tell anyone.....loose lips sink surf spots....but anyway triple g f you can tell us ,eh Blowin,well guard your secret ,,,,,,hehehehe

trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 8:22pm

Is paradise hot?...cold, colder, ice cold!

trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 8:38pm

Secret spots, like lovers...

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 9:28pm

TGF looks like a wave I know, left isn't really a wave but the right is racey, hollow and super fun. Similar setup just to the left of where you took the shot where you can go both left and right?

trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 9:49pm

No cigar Craig, the peak is great both ways, turn on with minor swell direction and tides changes.

As for photo position, there is a sick wave to left but it's only a left...although you could go right if ya want to take on the cheese grater of death.

Now look what you've done, this is becoming a game of guess who haha.

trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet's picture
trippergreenfeet Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 9:50pm
Blowin wrote:

You sound uptight TGF. Surfing some quality waves will settle you down. Best you and me go on a little surf trip to help you unwind.... to your little secret spot of course. I'll go online to Pacific Blue airlines and book us some tickets shall I ?

Pacific Blue, nah, just burn a couple of tanks of juice...haven't you done that recently mate, going straight?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 26 Dec 2014 at 10:03pm

Enough from me then, not the wave I thought.

yocal's picture
yocal's picture
yocal Wednesday, 31 Dec 2014 at 1:28pm

Even when you think you've found a well kept secret, there's more than likely a thousand grommie emo boogers gossiping about it online and submitting their gopro shots to Riptide