Where did you surf today?

Too true, mate.

Almost overwhelming the colour saturation and clarity of the light. Noticeably enough up here was that, despite the heat and humidity, it seems we went into the floods in the last gasp of summer and came out the other side fully transitioned into autumn.

Gone completely is any remnant of a washed out summer sky, replaced whole by the deep azure of the surfer’s season.

Ocean looks like it contains every shade of brown in the spectrum.

Its 1ft today here but yesterday i surfed a couple out the point then went into this section with only one out..half an hour wait for a couple of drain pipes.

What an afternoon, reckon you summed it up pretty well Blowin - that clarity of light and the west in the wind kind of adds a superreal aspect.
Surprisingly clear water at spots up here, I think with that touch of north in the swell it causes the bulk of the river runoff to eddy out to sea off the back of a rock shelf a bit to the south.
So cleanish water and fun, offshore, overhead waves today.
Stoked.

Nice tube gs

Slotted mate, good one

Nice barrel GS!

Man, first proper autumn day of.. autumn.

This morning a little morning sick, too much water moving and nothing amazing across the local area, but the offshore kicked in and groomed the slowly easing swell. From late morning it was a totally different story. I wanted to surf my bigger boards but Manly looked kinda slow, closey on the best ones and all in all not great.

Got a hot tip about an uncrowded left rip bowl and hit there instead. Wave machine lefts with less than 5, lapping wave after wave after wave.

Finished work around 5:30 and then headed out to scope a few options for the late. Reefs not great, and the best beachy banks busy. Thought outside the square and found a fairly unattended rip-bowl bank, this one focussing the long lines into a beautiful wedgey take-off as the swell felt a big gutter off the right, turning it into a slopey, long running left.

The best ones, 4-5 turns to the beach and even a bonus inside right a times. Pastel skies, moon sitting 1/3rd in the sky and the most beautiful autumn glow. After dusk it went full mauve as well, very similar to the evenings last autumn when we were deep in lockdown.

Magic!

right on Craig!

Yesterday was really fun head high, clean and a nice groomed swell hitting a rare really nice bank.

Today the wind was crosshore and swell had some lump in it, but i still couldn't help going back to yesterdays bank, expecting it to be good almost not accepting the reality of todays conditions.

Noway im telling where I surfed today but all I can say it was like Porto 6-8ft
nut case spitting grinding barrels. Insane day of surfing.

God days like today suck, perfect day sunny and light wind, nice sized swell, perfect conditions in theory, but for some reason the waves just are not doing it, you look on low tide, think maybe latter with a bit more water and it's just as bad, you drive around checking every bank and then end up back where you started, so you think fk it, i will just paddle out ive got to get wet, and then you have the worst surf.

Oh well.

Probably better surf where you surfed than where i checked...6 out one grom lid snaking everyone one local getting his share but just crap waves in general...and forecast looked good.couldnt sleep last night from frothing to get wet ended up drinking four extra strong coffees and talking to tourists and locals who probably thought i was on goey.lol.

Sucks when the forecast looks good or conditions on paper look good, but for some reason the waves aren't doing it.

Yeah. Bummer. This is where East Coast beachies hit their prime. Banks after all the rain and swell are insanely fun in some places on the beaches. There's one me and my mates have named Trestles. Yep and can be surfed on a fishy short board down to 1-2ft it's that good a shape. Another today was more so a wedgey right that throws a punchy wall down the line for 2-3 nice carves or a coupla taps then into the shorey right on the sand. Water has warmed up nicely from about 17 last week to 22-23. 

I'm always an expectation guy now. On the best looking days on paper set it low as they seem to not be the pick and the days before and after you have way more fun with less people. All expectations. The one that gets you though is when you see and paddle out into epic surf but for some reason you have a shocker and are never in the spot for the good ones. 

Well well well I thought my local was like 1-2ft and mush got stuck watching the best surfers in the world riding the worse waves in the world (shameful WSL ) had enough
checked it at 1130 pumping glassy 3ft plus waves good ripplable uncrowded bank had a great 3hour session. Lucked in.

That tidal variation was huge yesterday

Farrrrk how good was northern nsw today ? Been working all week and this morning , finished 9am and headed to a favorite , 8 guys out , got 10 waves averaging 150 meters per ride , overhead bombs , managed to jag 4 , 2 barrels, very happy man . Beautiful swell.

Nice one Supa, it’s been a good week.

Yes Andy M , I’ve been watching on surf cams during breaks at work and today when I first paddled out there were 20 odd guys and 15 minutes later 8 , timed it well with tide dropping, I think the crowd was surfed out as it was pretty consistent, great vibe in the water.

Yeah if you watch and wait you can be pleasantly surprised.
I'm wondering if you surfed my local - was there an older guy taking off on the set waves on his knees on a wood-veneer board?

Nah not me mate , can still pop up , just not as quick these days lol go the old blokes though. I saw a old fella I’m guessing 70+ out at greenmount a few weeks ago , he had a pretty long thick board ( not a mal ) and was getting some good set waves that were wide of everyone else . I always like to watch the really old fellas as l find them inspirational and hopefully I’m still out there at their age.

Sorry Andy just read your post again and thought you were referring to me as the old guy on his knees lol

I would never be so rude!

There's a fella who surfs The Point and he's mid 70's, rides a 6'3" or close to.
Full legend and still gets his waves.

After a trying couple of months- injury, work stress, potential career change etc., sometimes you have a surf that is not only good quality but restores your equanimity!
Loving lockdown...

Great to hear San Guine, just one session like that is so good for the mind.

Been there San Guine good for you - I reckon one wave does the trick.

On here! If you know someone who was in Maresias that day!

Since it's actually a surf site......

I had a great session this morning. The swell pulsed a bit early into a light offshore so there were plenty of waves around. I often just leave the weekend to the workers but with so many spots to choose from I had a look around and ended surfing by myself for a couple of hours. Overhead on the bigger sets, long winding lefts with shorter punchy rights on the other side of the peak. Surfed my brains out. It faded in the end, fewer sets, wind moved slightly side shore so I came in, packed up and left without seeing anyone but a couple of beach walkers the whole time.

The next few days look like more of the same, maybe a bit smaller. Do any of you actually surf any more?

Don't rub it in to the millions of us that can't due to lockdowns BB .

Sensitive as a brick .

Ha ha I'll post a few photos tomorrow just to help you get through by knowing that there are still waves out there

Burleigh this morning good fun vibe and no real crowds. Mid length fun.

North Burleigh Saturday arvo had a nice little uncrowded 2Ft of fun. Hopefully more this arvo.

Looks like it was fun Roadkill. I took a rest day today though there were still plenty of waves around. Looking good for the next couple of days. Maybe a bit smaller.

So no-one surfs anymore? It was pretty friggin' epic around here this morning. Must have been waves half the length of the NSW coast.

Saturday morning after the typhoon. Semi secret spot up north- I dodged a bullet and worked all day. A few pro surfers on it. Wakita's son was the standout apparently. This wasn't even a big one.

Yesterday and today surfed the dying swell, still heaps of grunt. Some good waves around atm.

Photo- Jade Edson (charged this day too)

That’s unreal Zen.

Went to a little surfed spot today, which needs very(!) specific conditions. Of course, it wasn't any good.
However, beautiful walk around the headland. Not one other human in sight.
Ahh...

BTW Nice one Zen.

San G, are you from the Morn Pen?

goofyfoot wrote:

San G, are you from the Morn Pen?

Yep.

Smoking Zen, nice lip.

Surfed an often neglected left reef today with one other surfer(called sonnies left after a local kid charger surfed it whose about 12 and won a heat out there then caught a wobbygong off the rock the kid is well mature for his age and has a few 9-12 year old girls following him around watching him surf and yell out a cheer.)surfed on my 6'6 desert storm as my unused rasta torus twin didn't have a leash and the wind would soon be onshore i thought. Haven't surfed since an 8.3 meter swell about two or three months ago and i was on a lid then thinking i cant get to my feet anymore on a standup. Well paddled out and took off on a mini sucky rock and got straight to my feet first go as soon as i got into it, so im pretty happy i could surf as i havent ridden a standup in about 3 or 4 months. Surprised me to get to my feet with a good stance rather than too tall or poo stance or anything like that. it was only 3-4 foot with the odd cleanup but very fun wave.Rippy too which tired me out after 2 hours.
Another rarely surfed left and right that barrel into a channel through the middle was crowded with 8 tourists, Its a c grade wave and worse than the spot i surfed. Jakes was crowded and also my favorite wave here was cooking as i got out of the water but i had no paddle strength left and 3 or 4 tourist bodyboarders were out there. ones a crowd at that spot as its a 45 minute wait for a single wave set.

Toes in the wax again…you must be stoked GS

Sure am. Just having a coffee then getting out there again today. wetsuit dried overnight too.I love the new quick dry need essentials wetties... by the way i didnt surf that 8 meter swell anywhere big, just a novelty wave in geraldton which used to pump but now the sand isn't built up around the groin anymore and its just a shorey closeout.It was 2-3 foot but fun.

Fun waves this morning, not as good as the last few, but still overhead, offshore and no-one around. Two others came out later but way further south on another bank. I thought I would just grab a couple and take it easy....... two hours later.....

This has been one of the better springs in recent memory. Great winds, non-stop swells from the south and east with some pumping days in the mix. Been great sussing out some new rip-bowls and sand setups as well.

Craig - great that you are getting good waves . In NNSW when I surfed there Spring , especially September was the time of the year for howling northerly's .

The superspreaders evaporated after the long weekend like mist in the sunshine. Today was like a blue jewel. It’s just a pleasure being out in that clear blue water. A couple of happy crew out helps to prevent the mind drifting towards what’s circling under the fish smashing the bait balls. Show off whales a few hundred metres from the waves. They think they’re all that with their splashing and their blow holes.

Fun shallow water runners. Flying down the line makes me smile.

Same with me…I returned to spot X again after one of my favourite 4 ft sessions of the year Sunday. Pulled into the track and no cars again…a sense of pure joy overcame me. Still no one to be seen on my far seaward triangular bank ,but not as good today as that Sunday session of isolation and perfectly arranged walls in sets of 4 for me to choose from. The spot returned to a B grade one again today after the evil north winds of yesterday…but it was still fun and still mine and mine alone…I feel God there and the peace of watching creation do it’s thing. I’ve had a busy life involved with many many people and my good surfing friends are all dead now, but I still have pure joy when I feel the wave pick me up and take me and I think about the friends that would have enjoyed this session with me. Life’s a great thing isn’t it …seize the day….everyday is special.

September has been changing Hutchy.