Surfboards for older Surfers

Yeah I often sit too wide off the peak because it’s far more critical closer to the peak especially at Scotts Head Point when it’s over 5ft and I just don’t have enough confidence to get up quickly enough. The other thing is I often am on longer boards over 8’0 8’6 and 9’1 to help me paddle faster but then I feel the boards are too long to take a steep drop. I am going to try some shorter boards between 7’2 and 7’8 next.

flollo wrote:

tlearyus wrote:

Then they paddle inside me and catch another one in front of me.

Classic snaking! On the other hand, if you go deep they will 'estimate' that you are too deep and drop in right in front of you.

There is no easy way mate, you need to go right on the peak, give a couple of sets to others but once you get a chance you need to paddle in and hold your position. If the break is too heavy to take off right on the peak you need to move to a gentle location until you build a skillset for heavier take-off zones.

I will also recommend a very dirty solution - try SUP, it might be a savior :-).

30 years surfing? You must know what’s up. Has it been like this for 30 years? I’m thinking this is a gee up

seeds wrote:

30 years surfing? You must know what’s up. Has it been like this for 30 years? I’m thinking this is a gee up

No it’s only been happening in the last 5 years. Before that I got my fair share of waves and even had a few epic sessions like clean 10ft Dixon Park days in the 90’s and classic Broken Head barrels in the early 2000’s. I am 58 now though and 98kg but am surf fit and do daily exercise like riding my bike and lots of daily walks with my dogs etc.

I have surfed everywhere on the east coast of Australia from Noosa to Bega and even surfed at Wilson Prom once where I scored some epic waves. This is why the last 5 years have been so frustrating and depressing, I know how to surf, and have lots of experience in all types of surf from 1ft slop to heavy 12ft Newcastle bombs but nothing that I try seems to be making any difference. The crowds these days are not helping either.

Did you quit for a while? I’m kooking it these days too but not to that point. Haven’t surfed much last couple of years put on 10kg I sure don’t need and very unfit. I’m 98kg also. Been getting back into it and not going great but am enjoying being in the water again.
Had to beef up board dimensions as I was not getting into the waves and getting hung up and caught behind too much. Then my pop up was terrible so that’s all I focused on for a few weeks. Things are getting better. Maybe focus on one thing at a time then move on to the next.

You and I Seeds are kindred spirits. I won't lie, I've been struggling a bit recently. Winter doesn't help. But I'm still trying to get out there and preserve what I have.

Boardwise, I'm ready to size up.

I went crazy big. Went into one of those board stores that everything’s made overseas and thought fudge it I’m gunna get a tanker. 7’0x22x3 @53 litres. Round tail quad. I’m actually enjoying the extra length and the turns that come with that. Enjoying being out there. With my weight at the moment it’s no problem burying a bit of rail even with that crazy volume.

tlearyus wrote:

seeds wrote:

30 years surfing? You must know what’s up. Has it been like this for 30 years? I’m thinking this is a gee up

No it’s only been happening in the last 5 years. Before that I got my fair share of waves and even had a few epic sessions like clean 10ft Dixon Park days in the 90’s and classic Broken Head barrels in the early 2000’s. I am 58 now though and 98kg but am surf fit and do daily exercise like riding my bike and lots of daily walks with my dogs etc.

I have surfed everywhere on the east coast of Australia from Noosa to Bega and even surfed at Wilson Prom once where I scored some epic waves. This is why the last 5 years have been so frustrating and depressing, I know how to surf, and have lots of experience in all types of surf from 1ft slop to heavy 12ft Newcastle bombs but nothing that I try seems to be making any difference. The crowds these days are not helping either.

Is it all in your Head ?

I'm hearing ya' seeds. I'm not embarrassed to say that I'm gonna go big too. I was thinking roughly same dims, maybe a touch shorter but certainly in that ballpark- round-tail quad, plenty of meat.

My ripping days are sadly behind me but I just love riding waves and if I can bang a turn here or there life will be all good.

Crowds seem a bi part of the issue. A tight crowded point break take off is just hard unless you are quick and nimble. Especially the prime outside section.

Sitting wide or down the line can work. I do it a lot catching wide ones or where someone falls off. But you have to swing quickly and go.

Super early works - short window to grab a few. Late in the day etc.

Step down in quality is an option. Often when the wind is on it the crowd thins a lot and the eagerness and lack of generosity of the hottest fades.

That’s it Zen. Gotta be fun to keep going back. Even as I trim down and regain fitness I think I’ll stick with a longer board just a bit more refined

I've read all the comments here and in the excellent forum topic "don't call it a comeback". Many many valuable ideas can be found in both forums, This is what I've learnt through the covid lockdowns and the resultant rare surf.

Boards do necessarily get bigger as we age but personally I think overall volume is less important than a lower rocker, fuller rails and an overall wider profile. Go up in volume paying attention to those other things.

Linked with board selection I think we need to be brutally honest with ourselves and seriously ask the question is it the board or me that needs a changing? That question introduces fitness which I see as 3 inseparable equally important linked issues on an equal sided triangle. These issues are fitness, muscle memory and mental state. Performance in one is interdependent on performance in the other two.

Fitness includes overall health considerations like diet, hydration and weight management along with strength and the ability to perform at a high heart rate (cardio). The ability to recover is here too so stretching or yoga is a vital inclusion. Muscle memory is vital because you can be very fit but your muscles haven't the memory to pop up, crouch, cut back etc so the fitness program needs to be surf specific rather than e.g. just lifting weights at a gym. Mental state is very individual and could include a 1,000 different points but at a basic level should include a high level of confidence in everything you have done to prepare for a surf.

What all that means for me is I'm eating mostly unprocessed food, no alcohol, daily body weight exercises and yoga (both surf specific). Kelly's words about not overtraining also are front of mind so I only push myself surfing or during my surf specific body weight sessions.

Good luck and have fun.

What body weight exercises are you doing Guy

seeds wrote:

What body weight exercises are you doing Guy

Not really that simple a question seeds as I take exercises from several different programs I have purchased that combine yoga, pilates and body weight. I'm reluctant to be specific because our needs are all different but there are at least 5 AU surf body weight fitness programs you can purchase, all offer excellent online resources/support. However, the one I'm currently using is Nth American (GMB Fitness) because the instructions are precise/clear and surprisingly (or not) the program, although not advertised as surf specific, provides whole body gains in strength and flexibility (along with muscle memory). No recommendation made here apart from find what works for you, it must be fun, and do it often.

GuySmiley wrote:

I've read all the comments here and in the excellent forum topic "don't call it a comeback". Many many valuable ideas can be found in both forums, This is what I've learnt through the covid lockdowns and the resultant rare surf.

Boards do necessarily get bigger as we age but personally I think overall volume is less important than a lower rocker, fuller rails and an overall wider profile. Go up in volume paying attention to those other things.

Linked with board selection I think we need to be brutally honest with ourselves and seriously ask the question is it the board or me that needs a changing? That question introduces fitness which I see as 3 inseparable equally important linked issues on an equal sided triangle. These issues are fitness, muscle memory and mental state. Performance in one is interdependent on performance in the other two.

Fitness includes overall health considerations like diet, hydration and weight management along with strength and the ability to perform at a high heart rate (cardio). The ability to recover is here too so stretching or yoga is a vital inclusion. Muscle memory is vital because you can be very fit but your muscles haven't the memory to pop up, crouch, cut back etc so the fitness program needs to be surf specific rather than e.g. just lifting weights at a gym. Mental state is very individual and could include a 1,000 different points but at a basic level should include a high level of confidence in everything you have done to prepare for a surf.

What all that means for me is I'm eating mostly unprocessed food, no alcohol, daily body weight exercises and yoga (both surf specific). Kelly's words about not overtraining also are front of mind so I only push myself surfing or during my surf specific body weight sessions.

Good luck and have fun.

Couldn't agree more GS.

seeds wrote:

Did you quit for a while? I’m kooking it these days too but not to that point. Haven’t surfed much last couple of years put on 10kg I sure don’t need and very unfit. I’m 98kg also. Been getting back into it and not going great but am enjoying being in the water again.
Had to beef up board dimensions as I was not getting into the waves and getting hung up and caught behind too much. Then my pop up was terrible so that’s all I focused on for a few weeks. Things are getting better. Maybe focus on one thing at a time then move on to the next.

No I have surfed pretty much the entire time, I lived in Newcastle for 5 years and Byron for 22 years and now Scotts Head so always been on the coast for the last 30 years or so. I have 7 boards ranging from 55L to 72L. Doesn't seem to make any difference really.

The videos Frog posted before on paddle technique are great so am going to try longer, deeper strokes and paddle earlier as soon as a spot a class A wave. This is a big problem for me, positioning and paddling into the wave early enough.

I will respectfully make a suggestion, and please don't take it the wrong way.

3 waves in 42 go outs is not surfing.......thats floating around.

I'd purposely lower the bar so low that you can't help but succeed.

Go get a boogie from the dump shop and go ride 3 waves in the whitewater every day....get a wave count up and start riding waves.

Then progress to riding a foamy in the whitewater , standing up in the whitewater.

Move out to little green waves, close-outs whatever.

Then see if you can transfer that to the inside of the Point.

Maybe sell some boards?

You need to get some success happening.

i think you need a coach and im sure Trent Munro runs a surf school at scotts head......try him

Seeds also you said your board is 53 liters , well for a bloke who's 98 ks that's not a lot for someone struggling to get back into it.......believe me i'm going down that path myself but when your out somewhere and your watching all the manbuns ride past who are 20 remember they are on boards with probably 60 liters of vol and they weigh 70 ks.........have a look at Harley Ingleby Moe 7-4 or 8fter exy but good all round boards that are light strong and work

Yeah fair point Simba but don’t worry it’s heaps for me and easy paddle ins now. Got rid of the frustrations as tlearyus is saying. Now I can work on regaining technique which is coming along nicely. I’ve always liked a chunkier board. Tiger has shaped a few for me quite a while back when I was younger slimmer and fitter and I always asked for a bit of beef compared to normal. I just got to get my mind right, lose the booze and and eat right.

Oh and can’t stand epoxy boards. Tried 2 and can’t keep the tail/fins engaged in the face even with my weight. Feel horribly loose and skittish

morg wrote:

Hey #tlearyus I hear you. Went through a bit of a similar phase and basically did what FR76 suggested. I bought flippers, made a timber handplane (with six channels LOL) and did a bit of body bashing and lid riding for a couple of weeks. Had fun surfing sh#t waves and re-learning what was natural to me as a kid. It also made me acutely aware of how many waves I was previously letting go when on my surfboards. I starting getting lots of waves which got the stoke back and then i just had to get back on my surfboard.

Not a bad suggestion but I already swim and body surf a lot, almost daily and I catch plenty of good body surfing waves and practice reading the incoming waves, direction etc.

freeride76 wrote:

I will respectfully make a suggestion, and please don't take it the wrong way.

3 waves in 42 go outs is not surfing.......thats floating around.

I'd purposely lower the bar so low that you can't help but succeed.

Go get a boogie from the dump shop and go ride 3 waves in the whitewater every day....get a wave count up and start riding waves.

Then progress to riding a foamy in the whitewater , standing up in the whitewater.

Move out to little green waves, close-outs whatever.

Then see if you can transfer that to the inside of the Point.

Maybe sell some boards?

You need to get some success happening.

The thing is i still get the odd good wave every now and again, which keeps me going and reminds me that I can actually still surf. For example I got a cracker about two weeks ago from way out the back of the point for over 250m with plenty of turns and cut backs. But then I haven't caught another good wave since then.

PS: I am reading every suggestion here and will keep trying different things.

I’m baffled how you can surf for 30 years, including sessions in 12 foot waves and then have all the dramas you’re having.

Hope you sort it out

I don't either.

No disrespect- but you have entire sessions without catching a wave?

How do you get back to shore, paddle-in?

Yeah, I'm a little skeptical too.

I'm ashamed to say I've been doing FA surfing recently (tons of snowboarding though- Yew!) and am not exactly surf fit. I need a new board as I've put on a few kegs and am way under volume. I don't get as many waves as I like but I still get a handful each sesh.

I'm not seeing how you can be surf fit, have the right equipment and 30 years experience and not catch a wave?

I reckon it’s a pisstske.

Went for a walk up Scott’s beach a few days ago when visiting a mate and there was chest high beachie rollers without anyone on them. Old mate could have caught a million waves on his log. That’s if he didn’t want to surf the point which looked like fun at waist high with only a couple out.

Too many options around there to get waves to yourself.

Another vid for you.

The shoulder spot (surfers with the arrows) can seem safer and easier for take off but it means you will get paddled inside of all the time but also the wave has less push out there so often you will not even catch it if no-one is inside. Often some surfers paddle out and spend the whole surf just where those guys under the arrows are. Half paddling, pulling back, watching enviously, giving it to the inside guy and blaming the surf or crowds for lack of waves.

Paddle, early and hard and look like you are going no matter what - all sorts of people will pull back and let you have it. Hesitancy sends a signal to the others around you for that wave and then future waves. You will get mentally classified by the other surfers as easy pickings.

Fear of wipeouts and fear of wasting waves by falling off often creates hesitancy. This just feeds on itself. You just have to pick spot and place in the line up and then your target wave and go hard and live with the consequences.

Even in empty surf I paddle around fast - bursts of speed to catch waves then fast again on the way back out - helps build fitness and gets me in early and by paddling fast and thinking fast my pop up becomes faster as well.

Even so, I am over 60 and avoiding crowds is the number 1 solution but not always possible. I can get waves at a place like Dbah as in the vid as it is has gaps and randomness but have to be in the mood. Outside Snapper type take off in full crowd mode - nup I just lose interest.

He needs Uplift to train the bejeeebus out him, that what he needs!

freeride76 wrote:

I don't either.
No disrespect- but you have entire sessions without catching a wave?
How do you get back to shore, paddle-in?

Yep 9/10 surfs for more than 4 years now, and with a long term average of 3-4 surfs per week.

Yep all too often, or catch a broken wave on my stomach.

Blowin wrote:

I reckon it’s a pisstske.

Went for a walk up Scott’s beach a few days ago when visiting a mate and there was chest high beachie rollers without anyone on them. Old mate could have caught a million waves on his log. That’s if he didn’t want to surf the point which looked like fun at waist high with only a couple out.

Too many options around there to get waves to yourself.

Well I have lived here 13 years and live one block from the beach. I walk my two dogs twice a day and check the surf multiple times each day. Ask other locals, they all know the troubles I have been having because they see me out with them not catching any waves every other day. I get dropped in on a lot because better surfers paddle inside me or just drop in anyway as they assume i won't catch the wave am paddling for after years of watching me so it's a double impact as people treat you like the weak surfer in the pack and don't show ANY RESPECT.

frog wrote:

Another vid for you.
https://youtu.be/rS9LRP6BpXo
Paddle, early and hard and look like you are going no matter what - all sorts of people will pull back and let you have it. Hesitancy sends a signal to the others around you for that wave and then future waves. You will get mentally classified by the other surfers as easy pickings.
Fear of wipeouts and fear of wasting waves by falling off often creates hesitancy. This just feeds on itself. You just have to pick spot and place in the line up and then your target wave and go hard and live with the consequences.

Thanks again Frog, and these two issues are two of my biggest problems, especially in bigger waves when the take off is critical. There is generally only one primary take off spot at Scotts point which gets very crowded and competitive but I think I am just going to have to take some beatings and get into the more critical take off zone. Sitting out of position away from the steepest take off zone is killing me.

Hi, I just want to add my 2c worth based on the new comments. I am 60, 100kg, always been big and could drop 10kg for sure, had both hips replaced 10 yrs ago. I get out there 1-2 times a week.

See a PT once a week who is early 50s and surfs so understands what I am up against.

Regularly do his routines and definitely think it helps with the missing strength/power to get onto a wave. But, I definitely need to up the intensity based on comments here

My issues are accelerating onto the wave to catch it and the popup. I think getting onto the wave is the bigger problem.

But, I struggle on and am not giving up. Sessions range between getting 3 or 4 waves when I am over the moon, or getting 1 only and blowing it.

Surf at cronulla and will always find the least crowded, shittiest bank to go out. Wont even think about going on a crowded peak. At least I have the luxury of being able to get out there mid week if it is looking good.

Lastly, I question tlearyus as well. Why would you even think of sitting on the peak at Scott's head when there must be miles of empty beach break peaks to choose from. Doesn't make any sense.

Anyway, good luck to you all with the same issues. I enjoy these threads.

If you don't mind me asking Craig- what sort of board are you currently riding? Also, do you know in litres? I'm a bit younger and a bit lighter than you, but not by much.

I'm asking because I'm gonna bite the bullet and go longer, wider and thicker cause I've been struggling to get waves recently. Up and riding, no probs. Catching them is another matter.

Any other big units want to chime in, feel free.

zenagain wrote:

If you don't mind me asking Craig- what sort of board are you currently riding? Also, do you know in litres? I'm a bit younger and a bit lighter than you, but not by much.

I'm asking because I'm gonna bite the bullet and go longer, wider and thicker cause I've been struggling to get waves recently. Up and riding, no probs. Catching them is another matter.

Any other big units want to chime in, feel free.

What type of waves do you typically surf the most ? Up to 4-5ft Id recommend one of MCs reverse V hybrids . Goes really good in lumpy bumpy crap but also performs well in 4-5 ft hollow waves , catches waves pretty easily

I have a couple of MC's, a 6'5" Pro-tow which is my step up and a 6'2" Dirty Dingo which is my groveller. I was looking at maybe a Red Dingo if from him. But he hasn't been able to get back to Japan because of covid.

I ride a mixture of waves, wally point waves similar to Trestles and also a lot of beachies. Sometimes a couple of reef waves that can get pretty chunky when the waves turn on. Big waves kinda scare me now and unless it's perfect, double OH is about my limit. I guess waist high to head and a half is kinda my sweetspot.

I just had a quick squiz at the reverse v hybrid. I like the look of it.

zenagain wrote:

I have a couple of MC's, a 6'5" Pro-tow which is my step up and a 6'2" Dirty Dingo which is my groveller. I was looking at maybe a Red Dingo if from him. But he hasn't been able to get back to Japan because of covid.

I ride a mixture of waves, wally point waves similar to Trestles and also a lot of beachies. Sometimes a couple of reef waves that can get pretty chunky when the waves turn on. Big waves kinda scare me now and unless it's perfect, double OH is about my limit. I guess waist high to head and a half is kinda my sweetspot.

You won’t be disappointed in the hybrid reverse v Go to the 13.17 minute mark , this one is a 7.0 , Ive got a 6’8” lots of fun hangs in well and really fast considering how wide it is .

Cheers Supa. I'll check it out.

Edit: Think I found my new board.

zenagain wrote:

Cheers Supa. I'll check it out.

Edit: Think I found my new board.

I like it best as a quad , good luck whatever you go with , nothing like a new board to bring out the grommet juices in us . I bounce around between 90-95 kg , 61 yo this year.

Good looking boards Zen, reckon they will be fun. Was looking at them earlier in the year. I am in the same ballpark age and weight wise 56, 95 kg but have always ridden longer boards being a fair bit taller than average. Currently spending most time on a 6’10 (46 L) by a local shaper. Running it as a keel twin and loving it in most conditions. Have a Joel Fitz Cosmic Twin on order, 6’10, 44 L, looking for a similar vibe but purpose built twin. Extra. Volume a must when you need a 4/3 or heavier in winter.

Ha, we seem to be cast of the same mold- 54 and 95 k's of pure love.

morg wrote:

Slightly off topic but what wetsuits do the ‘rounder guys” wear? Seems to me that the main surf brands sell wetsuits for slim to average chunkiness, but no one seems to sell steamers for enthusiastic kegs on legs. A guy I know is just getting back into surfing after about a 20 year absence and he can’t find a spring suite to fit. Not sure if that just because of what’s available in store, or if he’s correct and they don’t exist.

The bigger blokes I know go XXL and sometimes trim to fit. My problem is at the other end, most suits are too short in the leg. Not a problem in warmer months but when booties are needed its a bit crap. Needessentials do make an XLT which allows my toes to avoid regular flushing and freezing.

Stock standard XL seems to fit me fine. I'm 180cm tall.

OK Morg how Fat is this bloke...Whats his Height and KGs ?

As an older surfer (58yo) and no lightweight (80kg), I'm happy to say that I recently got the best Daily Driver shorty: Pyzalien 2, 6'3 x 20 1/4 x 2 5/8. 36L.

If you're looking for something quick and lively, yet easy to surf and paddle, I can thoroughly recommend this. Massive range too.

In PU ?

80 kegs. That’s normal unless you’re a short fella. I wish I was 80 kegs. I was 10 years ago. Only got myself to blame. 5’11 tall