Where did you surf today?
You write with your right hand, kick with your right foot.
When surfing, skating, snowboarding etc you lead with your right?
And yet most lead with their left.
Safe to say most left handed people lead with their left too.
Perplexing
Serious question to the gooofs. Are all waves, regardless of bathymetry, coastal structure , wind, tide and swell direction....left handers?? Cos seems that's all goofys ever see!!
That’s horseshit haha. When a chance to split a wave with a regular sitting on the left they always go right.
re snowboarding, @seeds, I ski.. not that there's anything wrong with snowboarding. I'm glad snowboarders can be out in the open. Some of my best friends are snowboarders, and I am supportive of the lifestyle.
seeds wrote:That’s horseshit haha. When a chance to split a wave with a regular sitting on the left they always go right.
Haha. I'm Libran @seeds. I can't decide so just go straight. It bloody sucks!
basesix wrote:re snowboarding, @seeds, I ski.. not that there's anything wrong with snowboarding. I'm glad snowboarders can be out in the open. Some of my friends snowboard, and I am supportive of the lifestyle.
haha @base i don't snowboard either...but fark me i reckon theyre way more hardcore than me or most surfers. Fuck bones and all. Its a steep learning curve. Reckon you're taking the piss though.
Just an example. I don’t snowboard either. Badly ski at best.
yeh, I am a bit.. snowboarding is fucking unreal now.. just got the hangover from decades where it just wasn't.. big kooky razorblades, scraping the fresh snow off the top..
(example was a good one, I'm the same with all the examples @seeds re R/L)
I got dragged up a mountain arse first in le deux alps in front of a crowd of Frenchies. Not once but twice. I'm a kook of the snow so hence i fucken hate them all. Bastards!!! But geez they're good, i wish i was them! haha.
I even got dragged into the first pole that supports the overhead wires on my arse. Hellman!!!
Haha, Saturday Night palsy convo. Nice work lads.
Right handed, goofy, goofy on skateboard but left foot on board, right for power push. Living in the land of righthand reefs. Go left young man.
Fark me what world is this swellnet world i live amongst!
haha, a goofy has a thooousand eyes...
Haha that’s how I push on a skateboard
Left rear foot on board and push with right. Totally wrong but only way I feel normal
ps must note that I’ve never been much of a skateboarder
Snowboarding is piss easy compared to surfing - and to skiing. Day one might be hard for some, and you'll get a wet bum, but then it's lightning quick progression.
Becoming an expert snowboarder is of course hard as fuck, but that's the case with all mastery.
I skied for 20 years and swapped to nothing but snowboarding a few years back so I could board with my kids. Every surfer should give boarding a go and get into powder if possible. I have a dedicated pow board now and there is no better feeling than being in powder…the glide is like nothing else, the sweeping turns, the float….nothing comes close to it.
Agree re the dedicated powder board. Generous length and width, good setback, swallowtail.
In regards to what IB said above- imo snowboarding is pretty difficult at first but if you surf, you should be able to get down the hill in no time and get decent pretty quickly. Skiing on the other hand is pretty easy at first but incredibly difficult to master. I love watching good skiers but to get to that, they've been skiing for a lifetime.
I've been a snowboarder for over 30 years but I'm thinking of going back to skiing cause it looks fun.
+1 on a dedicated powder board. I'm up for a new one this coming season.
I love snow talk as much as surf talk.
zenagain wrote:In regards to what IB said above- imo snowboarding is pretty difficult at first but if you surf, you should be able to get down the hill in no time and get decent pretty quickly. Skiing on the other hand is pretty easy at first but incredibly difficult to master. I love watching good skiers but to get to that, they've been skiing for a lifetime.
I've been a snowboarder for over 30 years but I'm thinking of going back to skiing cause it looks fun.
+1 on a dedicated powder board. I'm up for a new one this coming season.
I love snow talk as much as surf talk.
Hey Zen,
Wife and daughter want to do a trip to Japan Xmas time to see the snow.
I've never skied or snow boarded but surf ok.
Would like to give it a crack before too old if not already. :)
Have had so few friends recommended different places.
Do you have any recommendations, snow but also good exposure to all things Japanese. Don't really want to be in mini Australia in Japan if you know what I mean.
Not asking for any secret spots, just mainstream ones that may be better than others.
Cheers.
The wind cooperated for most of the day yesterday, put in 7 hours in 3 sessions, a Scottish chap put in 9 hours . Clean 3 - 4ft and this morning hoping that Craig’s forecast for an increase in swell comes true . 
nice
Day 2 trip report for this interested. Had three surfs as we made our way north from Buchupureo to Los Pellines.
Morning sesh at the main wave in Buchupureo town, I think this is considered one of “the spots” in this area (it has a surfline forecast). I actually had a quick session on dark here yesterday evening on the low tide but it was struggling to hold the swell, lots of wash throughs and some lump from some northerly winds that blew
Yesterday. This morning was all time glassy conditions and on a higher tide seemed to be true to the bank more. I surfed from about 7:30 till 8:45 for 5 waves, it’s a long paddle back up the point with no real way to run around. Crowd started with 5 and got to about 15-18 when I came in, mostly tourists but a few locals who rip. Mostly mellow vibe but one local was a bit shouty when people were sitting first in line at the top of the point, some waves did get missed so probably fair enough (although these were proper 6ft+ sand monsters, truly impressive shit). It’s hard to know how much the bank varies but I would say this was about as big as you would want here, I think the windy forecast for today was something like 3.2m SW. The wave shape is interesting, the bathymetry of the bank must be a very steep drop off so the wave transitions from super bowly barrel to very flat in a very short distance (I hope that makes sense). It’s not really a down the line style wave in the way an Aus east coast point break is.
Lunchtime sesh we moved up the coast to try and escape the wind and try something new. Someone mentioned in the bells live thread that the wind gets up from the south about 10am and it boy does it - easy 25knts. This headland faces more north and is sheltered from swell and wind. I met 3 local guys in the car park who were super friendly, the crowd was us and one other Canadian guy so 5 in total. Apparently this place gets busy on big swells because it’s the only place that can handle it. Much flatter bank so more down the line - got a couple of crazy visions but didn’t actually make any proper tubes.
Evening Sesh at the wave in town at Los Pellines, crazy little set up. Only had 20 minutes before dark so got 2 waves that were unreal - crazy sunset too. Will surf here in the morning and maybe all day if the wind is good.
Fark Supa- looks ideal. Lovely.
Andy, happy to help in any way and if you like, we can take offline if you like. SN can pass on my email.
All I can say is if you want the real Japanese experience swerve Niseko or Hakuba. My advice is to hire a car and explore Tohoku (Fukishima/Yamagata/Iwate/Miyagi/Akita/Aomori) place is untapped. Stay in a Ryokan to totally immerse yourself in hot springs and Japanese food and culture.
A little language ability and confidence driving in snow would help but google translate and not being in a hurry will take you a long way.
zenagain wrote:Fark Supa- looks ideal. Lovely.
Andy, happy to help in any way and if you like, we can take offline if you like. SN can pass on my email.
All I can say is if you want the real Japanese experience swerve Niseko or Hakuba. My advice is to hire a car and explore Tohoku (Fukishima/Yamagata/Iwate/Miyagi/Akita/Aomori) place is untapped. Stay in a Ryokan to totally immerse yourself in hot springs and Japanese food and culture.
A little language ability and confidence driving in snow would help but google translate and not being in a hurry will take you a long way.
Cheers Zen.
Will get in touch once plans become more solid.
Much appreciated. :)
only-sams wrote:Day 2 trip report for this interested. Had three surfs as we made our way north from Buchupureo to Los Pellines.
Morning sesh at the main wave in Buchupureo town, I think this is considered one of “the spots” in this area (it has a surfline forecast). I actually had a quick session on dark here yesterday evening on the low tide but it was struggling to hold the swell, lots of wash throughs and some lump from some northerly winds that blew
Yesterday. This morning was all time glassy conditions and on a higher tide seemed to be true to the bank more. I surfed from about 7:30 till 8:45 for 5 waves, it’s a long paddle back up the point with no real way to run around. Crowd started with 5 and got to about 15-18 when I came in, mostly tourists but a few locals who rip. Mostly mellow vibe but one local was a bit shouty when people were sitting first in line at the top of the point, some waves did get missed so probably fair enough (although these were proper 6ft+ sand monsters, truly impressive shit). It’s hard to know how much the bank varies but I would say this was about as big as you would want here, I think the windy forecast for today was something like 3.2m SW. The wave shape is interesting, the bathymetry of the bank must be a very steep drop off so the wave transitions from super bowly barrel to very flat in a very short distance (I hope that makes sense). It’s not really a down the line style wave in the way an Aus east coast point break is.
Lunchtime sesh we moved up the coast to try and escape the wind and try something new. Someone mentioned in the bells live thread that the wind gets up from the south about 10am and it boy does it - easy 25knts. This headland faces more north and is sheltered from swell and wind. I met 3 local guys in the car park who were super friendly, the crowd was us and one other Canadian guy so 5 in total. Apparently this place gets busy on big swells because it’s the only place that can handle it. Much flatter bank so more down the line - got a couple of crazy visions but didn’t actually make any proper tubes.
Evening Sesh at the wave in town at Los Pellines, crazy little set up. Only had 20 minutes before dark so got 2 waves that were unreal - crazy sunset too. Will surf here in the morning and maybe all day if the wind is good.
Looks epic!!
Enjoy...
Supafreak wrote:The wind cooperated for most of the day yesterday, put in 7 hours in 3 sessions, a Scottish chap put in 9 hours . Clean 3 - 4ft and this morning hoping that Craig’s forecast for an increase in swell comes true .
Living the dream Supa.... !!
only-sams wrote:Day 2 trip report for this interested. Had three surfs as we made our way north from Buchupureo to Los Pellines.
Morning sesh at the main wave in Buchupureo town, I think this is considered one of “the spots” in this area (it has a surfline forecast). I actually had a quick session on dark here yesterday evening on the low tide but it was struggling to hold the swell, lots of wash throughs and some lump from some northerly winds that blew
Yesterday. This morning was all time glassy conditions and on a higher tide seemed to be true to the bank more. I surfed from about 7:30 till 8:45 for 5 waves, it’s a long paddle back up the point with no real way to run around. Crowd started with 5 and got to about 15-18 when I came in, mostly tourists but a few locals who rip. Mostly mellow vibe but one local was a bit shouty when people were sitting first in line at the top of the point, some waves did get missed so probably fair enough (although these were proper 6ft+ sand monsters, truly impressive shit). It’s hard to know how much the bank varies but I would say this was about as big as you would want here, I think the windy forecast for today was something like 3.2m SW. The wave shape is interesting, the bathymetry of the bank must be a very steep drop off so the wave transitions from super bowly barrel to very flat in a very short distance (I hope that makes sense). It’s not really a down the line style wave in the way an Aus east coast point break is.
Lunchtime sesh we moved up the coast to try and escape the wind and try something new. Someone mentioned in the bells live thread that the wind gets up from the south about 10am and it boy does it - easy 25knts. This headland faces more north and is sheltered from swell and wind. I met 3 local guys in the car park who were super friendly, the crowd was us and one other Canadian guy so 5 in total. Apparently this place gets busy on big swells because it’s the only place that can handle it. Much flatter bank so more down the line - got a couple of crazy visions but didn’t actually make any proper tubes.
Evening Sesh at the wave in town at Los Pellines, crazy little set up. Only had 20 minutes before dark so got 2 waves that were unreal - crazy sunset too. Will surf here in the morning and maybe all day if the wind is good.
OS, great update. Nice to meet the locals…that’s what make surfing trips special. Meeting people who share the same interests.
OS, great stuff! Keep us updated. Always good to hear about life on and off land in faraway places.
Loving this onlysams.
And the Japanese intel zemagain. I've loved skiing the club fields in NZ and smaller places in the US, but I always wondered about whether Japan had similar quieter places. The japow saturation on social media had me wondering whether we'd missed our chance at decent skiing without hordes.
Keep 'em coming O-S- living vicariously through your beautiful left points!
Hey Benskii, been ages.
No mate, you haven't missed it, most of those Japow pics come from a handful of places. Like eveywhere, you just gotta look a little elsewhere, drive a little further and keep your expectations in check. Lots to be discovered.
Btw- if you ever come across an influencer called i'mmattguy or something like that- please punch him in the face.
Day 3, somewhat lost for words this point. Had two surfs at the spot in town today, mid morning before the wind and on sunset.
Total time in the water, 4 hours
Total surfers seen, 6
Must have had nearly 2 hours today by myself, it’s just ridiculous.
Mid-morning on the high tide seemed to be the low point in the swell and was a little wobbly as the rocks at the top of the point were being washed over so added a little side chop/swell. Shoulder to just overhead and more of a rippable style wave. Way less current on the higher tide was a welcome change, my arms hurt.
This evening was similar to last night. Either the swell pulsed a little or the lower tide means the bank sticks out more past the rocks into the swell more. Either way it was pumping well overhead and perfectly shaped down the bank. This is a “shorter” wave than some of the other spots around here (it’s more of a cove than a long point) - but a good one from the top still runs for nearly 200m. Current at the top of the point was way more gnarly, arms just gave up in the end with the cold water.
Cost of two local beers at the restaurant in the car park - 12 AUD.
If you are planning a proper surf trip here definitely bring two steamers. Putting on a wet 4/3 2-3 times a day is getting tough. Also I wish I had booties, not for the cold necessarily but because most of the line ups are full of foam on the water that is fucking slippery if it gets on your wax.
We’re heading north to Pichilemu tomorrow and I think I’m about to be disappointed by crowds and chaos. Will report back but unless you chase a swell and want to be a big wave dave at Punta de Lobos I would stick south of Constitucion.
As a slightly funny last point, I don’t think I’ve ever ridden so many consistent and perfect waves back to back and it’s got to the point now that it’s starting to unveil flaws in the board I’m riding which is equal parts funny and sad.
Awesome mate.
What board are you riding and how cold is the water?
Good stuff, O-S. Point surf will do all that to you.
So good to follow your exploits.
OS great stories mate and gotta love an adventure like your on....something different.....that photo above with the pine trees looking into the cove im sure Derek Hynd had a house overlooking it.....? sure it was in a film with Rasta surfing so many years ago...anyway keep making memories .....
freeride76 wrote:Awesome mate.
What board are you riding and how cold is the water?
I’m riding my “normal” board, a 5’8 round tail that’s shaped pretty forgivingly (chunkier rails + a reasonably wide round tail). It goes good in most conditions I surf in but with the speed, power and tight sections of these waves I’m definitely finding it a bit harder to get over on rail than I would like.
Windy SST layer says the water is 13*, feels somewhere around there. Sun is warm though, 16-20*.
Been interesting reading your reports O-S. - I have a good idea on how you are feeling about the area you've just driven through
I'm a kiwi in Pichilemu - I've averaged about 5 months a year here in Chile over the last 20 years, Can catch up for a chat when you get into Pichilemu if your interested
Find a fellow traveller with a Pyzel Ghost and get him drunk on cheap beer, then buy his board for a song. Thank me later.
Ha, I've a ghost which I'm not parting with
Ah well, wasn't a bad idea :-)
sloth wrote:Been interesting reading your reports O-S. - I have a good idea on how you are feeling about the area you've just driven through
I'm a kiwi in Pichilemu - I've averaged about 5 months a year here in Chile over the last 20 years, Can catch up for a chat when you get into Pichilemu if your interested
Unreal would love to catch up and try and decompress some of the things I’ve seen over the last few days. Hopefully someone from Swellnet can pass on my email and we can go from there.
It’s truly an insane part of the world, based on my brief exposure to swell and wind in this area there must be 100+ days a year that are good - pumping.
OS, been really enjoying your reports.
Keep 'em coming if you're up to it.
Keep the tales coming OS.
Sounds epic!
Happy to keep updating, helps me make sense of the day.
Online diary with an appreciative audience.
only-sams wrote:sloth wrote:Been interesting reading your reports O-S. - I have a good idea on how you are feeling about the area you've just driven through
I'm a kiwi in Pichilemu - I've averaged about 5 months a year here in Chile over the last 20 years, Can catch up for a chat when you get into Pichilemu if your interested
Unreal would love to catch up and try and decompress some of the things I’ve seen over the last few days. Hopefully someone from Swellnet can pass on my email and we can go from there.
It’s truly an insane part of the world, based on my brief exposure to swell and wind in this area there must be 100+ days a year that are good - pumping.
Just sent your email to old mate Sloth.
Now that we're on the topic of long lefts, I lucked into 2 hours of magic at the local. Devil wind when I paddled out, and when I came in, but perfect in between. Got some magic waves, and a big barrel - not deep, but a huge backlit canopy.
6'10 Desert Storm was just the ticket.
zenagain wrote:Hey Benskii, been ages.
No mate, you haven't missed it, most of those Japow pics come from a handful of places. Like eveywhere, you just gotta look a little elsewhere, drive a little further and keep your expectations in check. Lots to be discovered.
Btw- if you ever come across an influencer called i'mmattguy or something like that- please punch him in the face.
I just looked him up and I reckon I'd be happy to. Spruiking real estate and whatnot, looks like he's trying to export the housing crises from the rest of the world.
It has been ages. I hope you're still going well over there. I dropped off swellnet for a while there cos I got the grumps with Ben and Stu with how some of the cams were being used to highlight unexpected good conditions in different places when local crew would otherwise surf on the quiet. It seemed contrary to the ethos of the site and it bothered me more than it should have. Ironic that I'm here loving OS's reports on quiet spots in Chile...I hope I just got over myself!
I also was getting too sucked into arguing about climate change with blowin and sheepdog and that was doing my head in so I just tuned out for a long while. Recently made a new account and immediately got drawn into that bloody american politics thread a couple of weeks ago too so I'm just going to avoid that stuff altogether!
Anyway, thanks for the heads up about that. We're aiming for a trip, but probably have to be 2027 cos I'm on a long term injury recovery and skiing isn't allowed by the docs. Luckily surfing is though!
No waves for me today but plenty yesterday. Shorey bank up the beach was a day for the booger. A bunch of fun little closeouts, some that promised a way out for a second or two before shutting down.
Island Bay wrote:Now that we're on the topic of long lefts, I lucked into 2 hours of magic at the local. Devil wind when I paddled out, and when I came in, but perfect in between. Got some magic waves, and a big barrel - not deep, but a huge backlit canopy.
6'10 Desert Storm was just the ticket.
How was that today? Couldn't believe how good it got and I got stuck in work stuff. Models under cooked it again and wind dropped too. I really missed out today ahhh. Stoked you got it
poo-man wrote:Island Bay wrote:Now that we're on the topic of long lefts, I lucked into 2 hours of magic at the local. Devil wind when I paddled out, and when I came in, but perfect in between. Got some magic waves, and a big barrel - not deep, but a huge backlit canopy.
6'10 Desert Storm was just the ticket.
How was that today? Couldn't believe how good it got and I got stuck in work stuff. Models under cooked it again and wind dropped too. I really missed out today ahhh. Stoked you got it
Sorry you missed it, not the only only. My mate had two hours of bad devil wind earlier, and then again before dark.
I think the models undercooked the underlying swell. There were 4 sets that were just so much bigger than the rest, and it cleaned up when it shouldn't have.
On the minus side, there were 12 skis out at you know where. 2 weeks ago nobody was surfing it. Weird.
Travel day so just one surf today - had a bit of a shocker honestly, struggled to find a rhythm and the sweep was tough. Always looking at better waves than the ones you get. There was a dead seal on the beach halfway up the point getting eaten by vultures which was a bit grim.
The sun is way more intense here than I expected. I kinda thought Aus/Nz had the monopoly on gnarly UV but I’m definitely feeling pretty cooked here even with zinc on.
A Realsurf staple-( sorry Priddes for the plagarism)
No surf today but off to Vicco tomorrow for the weekend so heres hoping!