XXL swell lines up Hawaii
All signals are go for what looks to be the biggest swell of the season so far across Hawaii mid-next week.
All signals are go for what looks to be the biggest swell of the season so far across Hawaii mid-next week.
The gifts are stacking up for big wave surfers with two very big swells - one potentially an Eddie swell - due just before Christmas.
In the coming week a rare event will take place in the North Pacific ocean: effectively every country in the region - from the Solomon Islands clockwise around to Mexico - will receive swell from a sole source.
It's lain dormant for the best part of six months but this week the North Pacific has roared back to life.
Super Typhoon Neoguri is currently bearing down on Japan spawning waves of jaw dropping size. Read more about this most impressive of storms.
While Australian surfers wait for their cyclone season to begin, the Western Pacific basin has been very active. The latest storm to impact the region is Super Typhoon Francisco and it's expected to push across the Ryukyu Islands of southern Japan today.
Such is the enormity of this typhoon, wind speeds are forecast to gust to 280km/h around the centre of Soulik as the pressure bottoms out at a phenomenal 915hPa this evening.
So while a tsunami with a height of one metre doesn't sound threatening, its forward speed of 220 metres per second can cause catastrophic damage as the surge moves inland for many minutes behind the initial impact.