Large N/NW swell ahead of XXL stormy surf

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Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Western Australia Surf Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Wednesday 5th June)

Best Days: Friday morning selected spots

Recap

Yesterday's large new W/SW groundswell came in on forecast across the South West, clean early and becoming increasingly bumpy and peaky into the afternoon with strengthening N/NE winds. Mandurah was a little smaller than expected and around 2ft, with 1-2ft waves in Perth.

Today the swell has eased and winds are stronger creating average conditions in the South West, small to tiny in Mandurah and Perth.

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This week and weekend (Jun 6 - 9)

We've got a poor and onshore run of surf over the coming period with funky weather as a strong node of the Long Wave Trough focusses across us, but cold fronts spawn off into cut-off lows.

Swell wise, there's nothing of significance due into the end of the week besides building levels of N/NW windswell as a deep trough moves in from the west, squeezing a strong high in the Bight.

Strengthening N/NE tending N winds tomorrow are expected to reach gale-force into the afternoon, kicking up large stormy waves across Margs into the evening, smaller around Perth and Mandurah.

A strong W/SW change on Friday morning may provide some interesting options in selected spots as the N/NW swell rapidly eases from 6ft to possibly 8ft at north swell magnets, much smaller elsewhere.

Winds will remain onshore out of the N/NW tending W on Saturday as a vigorous polar front come mid-latitude low projects up towards us but then stalls west of us on Saturday evening.

There'll be nowhere to recommend on Saturday, but come Sunday we'll see a mix of large long-period SW groundswell and extra-large stormy W/SW swell building on the coast as the mid-latitude low pushes in across us, bringing gale to storm-force W/SW winds, slamming right into the south-west of the state.

The surf will jump rapidly and conditions on the coast will be horrendous with the size likely to reach upwards of 15-20ft in the South West, 6ft+ in Mandurah and 4-6ft in Perth but with those gale to storm-force winds, abating through the day.

A secondary mid-latitude low firing up behind this initial system as it moves east will drift in from the south-west, bringing another increase in XXL stormy swell on Monday with gale to severe-gale SW winds.

The models diverge regarding the track and strength of this system but either way we're looking at very large and stormy surf for a number of days early next week. Check back here on Wednesday for more about this.