Tiny couple of days ahead of some new swell Sunday

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victorian Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Friday October 4th)

Best Days: Sunday once the swell kicks in, Monday morning, Wednesday morning exposed beaches

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Tiny tomorrow
  • Moderate sized mix of W/SW swells building Sun, peaking later, easing a touch Mon, with a reinforcing pulse Tue AM, easing
  • Fresh W/NW winds Sun, easing and tending W/SW-W for a period into the PM, back W/NW later
  • Fresh NW winds Mon AM, shifting strong SW into the PM
  • Fresh S winds Tue
  • Easing S/SW swell Wed with variable NE tending fresh SE winds
  • Tiny Thu with N winds
  • Moderate sized W/SW groundswell for Fri/Sat with unknown winds

Recap

It was the exposed beaches time to shine yesterday with improving surf and conditions as the swell eased and tide filled in during the morning. This morning there’s nothing left in the tank with tiny surf west of Melbourne and fading 2ft+ leftovers to the east as winds strengthen from the north.

Great surf yesterday

This weekend and next week (Oct 5 - 11)

The coming weekend will offer a contrast of surf.

Tomorrow looks flat under a fresh N/NW-NW tending weak W/SW breeze, while Sunday should see building levels of mid-period W/SW swell energy with a fresh W/NW breeze, easing and tending more W-W/SW for a period during the afternoon but then back W/NW later.

An initial increase in W/SW swell energy is being generated by a healthy frontal system passing under Western Australia, with a fetch of strong W/SW winds due to kick up a 3ft wave into the afternoon on the Surf Coast (smaller 1-2ft early) with the Mornington Peninsula due to reach 4-5ft+.

A secondary front moving in during the day Sunday should help kick wave heights a little above that + range on the Surf Coast into the afternoon, with both easing Monday from 3ft and 4-5ft+ respectively.

A third frontal system moving through, under the country on the weekend should then produce another pulse of W/SW swell for Tuesday morning, with sets to 3ft continuing on the Surf Coast magnets, 4-5ft to the east, easing through the day.

Local winds will only be favourable for the Surf Coast Monday morning with a NW offshore shifting strong SW into the afternoon and then S’ly on Tuesday.

This will be thanks to the third swell generating front spawning into a low once passing across Tasmania and then projecting north up into the Tasman Sea.

This also looks to generate some localised S/SW swell for Wednesday but to no major size. The Surf Coast only looks to come in at 2ft with 3ft to possibly 4ft sets to the east.

Conditions should improve Wednesday as the low clears east, bringing variable NE offshores ahead of fresh SE sea breezes, clean Thursday but tiny.

Into Friday and the weekend, some new long-range W/SW groundswell is due, generated by a decent frontal progression firing up to the south-west of Western Australia early next week.

It looks moderate in size but local winds are unknown thanks to divergence surrounding a mid-latitude low moving in from the west. Check back next week for a clearer idea on the local winds and expected size. Have a great weekend!

Comments

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Friday, 4 Oct 2024 at 9:33am

Nothing more frustrating than being on the MP, there is perfect sized swell and winds, but a before and after work low tide. Looked so good mid day yesterday :(

spinafex's picture
spinafex's picture
spinafex Friday, 4 Oct 2024 at 9:35am

You can say that again

Nolan's picture
Nolan's picture
Nolan Friday, 4 Oct 2024 at 4:30pm

Everybody's experience is different, and Plops clearly enjoyed it, but don't go along thinking that you missed out on something epic geek. I also live on MP, and surfed mid morning and post lunch. Conditions looked spectacular, and its always a privilege to have the freedom to be out there, but . . . the banks (including the one in the photo in Craig's report which I surfed) have deep gutters leading to sets with fat shoulders. Different type of frustration to yours, but setting up your first top turn only for the energy to disappear leaving you floundering on a short shoulder isn't great. For whatever reason, both banks I surfed weren't as good as last Saturday which was pretty good from my perspective.

geek's picture
geek's picture
geek Friday, 4 Oct 2024 at 5:15pm

Yeh Saturday was a ripper! I’ve had that many epic surfs over the last couple months I really shouldn’t complain too much

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Friday, 4 Oct 2024 at 5:44pm

Yeah Saturday was great. Hit MP early morning. First surf there for months. Loved it. Best I've had it in ages.

Nolan's picture
Nolan's picture
Nolan Friday, 4 Oct 2024 at 10:09pm

Surfing is a crazy drug - the more you get it good the more you want it. I've had three different injuries over the past two years keeping me out of the water for well over half that time. After the first month or so of withdrawal, life takes on a more stable, social rhythm to the point where, when its time to get back in the water, I've had to ask myself do I really want to do it to myself again? Then you get past the clumsy phase and get a day like last Sat and nothing else in the world matters - full crack addict status reinstated.

Viko's picture
Viko's picture
Viko Sunday, 6 Oct 2024 at 4:44pm

I feel your pain man. im in the middle of back to back ACL surgeries. did my right knee 12 months ago, and just did the left knee. So thats basically 2 years down the drain. this ones gunna be tough as id only had 3 surfs back in the water before getting injured again. FML

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Sunday, 6 Oct 2024 at 5:04pm

Jeez that sucks. Sorry to hear that, hopefully something else can fill the void until you’re back.

Nolan's picture
Nolan's picture
Nolan Monday, 7 Oct 2024 at 8:46am

Oh, that is super tough. The first of my three injuries was an ACL - the rehab was a full mission and as you say 9+ months out of the water. Back to back ACL's is brutal. The experience will make you stronger for sure - and remember, once you're through it you quickly forget the experience. I ended up doing some activities that I'd never have done if I was surfing - like trekking the Larapinta in NT - well worth it as a rehab milestone to look forward to. Keep your spirits up Viko.

Viko's picture
Viko's picture
Viko Monday, 7 Oct 2024 at 10:05am

thanks guys. definately a mental test and trying to fill the hole with other hobbies. the misso has decided nows the time to book an overseas holiday next year so thats something to save for and a goal to get my rehab done and be fit enough to do alot of walking.
all my other hobbies revolved around sports which i used to fill in the downtime between surfs. i learnt a lot in the last 12 months being out of the water but never expected to be in the same position a year later and have to repeat it all over again..

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 7 Oct 2024 at 10:32am

Sorry to hear Viko, what a lame couple of set backs but all the best with this second recovery and then hopefully it is all but a distant memory. Maybe a bit of photography might keep you occupied as well?

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Monday, 7 Oct 2024 at 10:38am

How was the Larapinta trail Nolan?
They have a multi day trail run there I want to do.
Scenery looks amazing.

plops's picture
plops's picture
plops Friday, 4 Oct 2024 at 12:54pm

Yesterday was day of the year on the Peninsula by a country mile

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 4 Oct 2024 at 1:02pm

Ooo, sick!