Large run of pumping surf slowly comes to an end
Victorian Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Monday September 23rd)
Best Days: Today, tomorrow, early Wednesday Surf Coast, Friday morning for the keen on the beaches, Saturday exposed beaches
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Large SW groundswell today with strong NW tending W/NW winds ahead of a late S/SW change
- Easing SW groundswell tomorrow with a large W/SW groundswell also in the mix, also easing
- Light, local offshore winds (N/NW to the west, N/NE to the east) variable into the PM
- Smaller Wed with early W/NW tending strong S/SW winds
- Moderate + sized SW groundswell for Wed PM, easing Thu with strong S winds
- Small-mod sized mid-period S/SW swell Fri with E-E/NE tending SE winds
- Easing swell Sat with N/NE tending E/NE winds
Recap
Well, what can one say? It’s been absolutely pumping across the Surf Coast and other selected spots since Friday afternoon when the long-period energy filled in offering large, clean, powerful surf that was still in the 8ft range Saturday morning.
The swell eased through the day with Sunday coming in more around 4-6ft, but today we’ve got our secondary large pulse of large SW groundswell in the water with clean surf pulsing back to 8ft on the Surf Coast again. Quite a remarkable run of swell that puts winter in the distant past.
This swell should hold most of the day as winds shift more W/NW and then slip S/SW into the late afternoon.
This week and weekend (Sep 24 - 29)
Looking at the period ahead and it’s nowhere near as active and as favourable as what we're currently experiencing.
Today’s large SW groundswell which was generated by a strong polar low projecting a fetch of severe-gale to storm-force SW winds towards us over the weekend will ease tomorrow.
The large, reinforcing W/SW groundswell due for tomorrow morning, generated by a trailing fetch of W/NW gales has been downgraded slightly with the structure and strength of this trailing system being a touch weaker.
With this we can expect the current groundswell to likely be more dominant, mixed in with some slightly smaller W/SW groundswell energy.
Easing surf from the 6ft+ range is due on the Surf Coast (8ft sets still a good chance), 8ft+ to the east along with light, local offshore winds that look to tend variable across both regions, maybe tending a little east on the Surf Coast.
Wednesday morning looks smaller and there should be a window of W/NW winds at dawn before a trough brings a strong S/SW change, persisting Thursday out of the S’th.
Swell wise, a small but strong low forming directly west of Tasmania tomorrow evening should generate a moderate + sized spike of SW groundswell for Wednesday afternoon, easing quickly Thursday but with those poor conditions.
A secondary pulse of mid-period S/SW swell is due on Friday as winds ease and likely tend light E-E/NE across most locations.
The source will be a weak polar front projecting up behind tomorrow evening’s low, with some fun 3ft+ sets due across the Surf Coast, 4-5ft to the east.
Saturday looks cleaner and better but with smaller, easing surf from 2ft and 3-4ft respectively.
We’re then looking at a smaller, slower run of swell into the start of October, but check back here during the week for more on this.
Comments
Bells beach has copped a hiding.
Gunnamatta has too
Wow.
Opposite at Portsea all the sand is in close and there is a mega hole half way out then a bank way out.
The set that breaks through Bells on the cam at 6:42am this morning is out of this world!
Mental! If ever there was a wave for someone to get one from Bells through to Winki...
On the cook this morning, crowds low, swell finally lined up nicely. Been a hell of a run and today feels like the best of the last week.
Cheers for that. The guy that went the bomb and then had to straighten out. Ugh. That'd be one hell of a beating.
Ol mate got fully mowed down. Hell of a late swing and go!
Unreal!!!
That was a solid one. Good work on swinging late. Unfortunately I reckon that one will haunt ole mate a while.
that was great viewing. old mate had had head down and bum up and just rolled into it (;
There shouldn't be too many arguments about the 9 out of 10 call on the surf report this morning.
Yeah I saw that.
I can’t recall the last 9/10 report I saw, would be interested to hear from a few punters about whether it lived up to the score.
Story idea for Swellnet - how many 9/10 days in a year across Oz? Could do a whole statistical breakdown story.
Appreciate the element of subjectivity and relativity in all this - not unlike scoring a surf competition! But would still be interesting.
It was 9/10
Nice, hopefully there is some more footage.
Fuck that’s a bomb
Huge!
W.P. was absolutely pumping today !.
:-)
That was good.
^^ uncle was frothing about the left inside somers creek
I wouldn’t want to remove that main heading either Craig. But it’s time.