Settling swell as periods of strong winds continue

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victorian Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Monday September 2nd)

Best Days: Tomorrow Surf Coast, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Monday morning next week

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Large mid-period W/SW swell peaking tomorrow AM, easing into the PM, smaller Wed
  • Gusty W/NW winds early tomorrow, easing during the day and moderate into the PM
  • Strong N/NE tending N winds Wed
  • Small-moderate sized W/SW swell for later Wed, peaking Thu with strong N/NW-N winds
  • Inconsistent, moderate sized W/SW groundswell for later Thu, peaking Fri with strong N winds, easing and tending NW and then W/NW
  • Small-mod sized W/SW swell for the weekend with W/NW ahead of sea breezes Sat, N/NW tending W/NW Sun
  • Moderate sized mid-period W/SW swell Mon with W/NW tending SW winds

Recap

Windy. That was the take home point from the weekend. Windy and large. Saturday started off a bit raw with 4-6ft of swell and OK conditions across protected spots, but the afternoon saw larger, stronger levels of W/SW swell energy on the build as conditions remained windy and tricky but more lined up.

Yesterday saw the peak in swell energy with most spots coming in between 6-8ft, while Bells and Winki saw 10ft+ sets at times more so from mid-morning onwards. Strong to gale-force offshore winds made for a great spectacle but made it tricky for those out in the water with winds backing off later in the day as the swell settled more around 6-8ft.

This morning we’ve got a little less size and lumpy conditions with a W/SW change due into the afternoon along with some new mid-period energy.

Windy, 12ft cleanup yesterday morning

This week and weekend (Sep 3 - 8)

Today’s W/SW change and strong winds is linked to another strong frontal system moving through this afternoon and evening, though not to the intensity of the weekend’s systems.

It should still generate some large, mid-period W/SW swell for tomorrow morning coming in 6ft to occasionally 8ft across the Surf Coast magnets, 8ft+ to the east before easing into the afternoon.

Conditions will be great tomorrow as offshore winds ease out of the W/NW, fresh in the morning but only moderate into the afternoon.

Into Wednesday, smaller surf is due again with the Surf Coast easing back from the 4ft range, with surf in the 6ft range to the east.

Into the late afternoon and more so Thursday, some less consistent reinforcing W/SW swell is due, ahead of another inconsistent groundswell pulse for late Thursday and more so Friday.

The sources of these swells is trailing frontal activity to the south-west of Western Australia, with the strongest system today due to generate Friday’s pulse. A small fetch of gale to severe-gale should maintain inconsistent 3-4ft sets on the Surf Coast magnets Friday (a little smaller Thursday), 6ft to the east.

Coming back to the local winds and strengthening N/NE tending N winds will favour selected beaches on Wednesday with strong N/NW-N winds on Thursday.

Friday looks to see fresh to strong N winds again, but easing and tending more NW and then W/NW through the day. These strong north winds will be thanks to approaching fronts being deflected away to the south-east on approach, with small to moderate levels of mid-period W/SW swell generated in their wake for the weekend under W/NW winds. Surf in the 3ft range is likely on the Surf Coast with 4-6ft waves to the east.

A slightly stronger and closer (in proximity) frontal system looks to generate the best pulse for Monday (moderate in size) but we’ll have a closer look at this Wednesday. 

Comments

tommy southcoast's picture
tommy southcoast's picture
tommy southcoast Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 9:46am

Man shyama's wave on aframe's insta story has to be a standout wave from yesterday. Defs one of the best waves I've seen ridden from down these parts. Would love to see some other angles of it if anyone else has them?

only-sams's picture
only-sams's picture
only-sams Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 9:51am

Looks like he was going fast enough to get a speeding ticket in a school zone for sure! Especially as he pulls in to the last tube.

tommy southcoast's picture
tommy southcoast's picture
tommy southcoast Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 9:56am

Haha absolutely, did he make it out of the last section in the clip?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 10:21am

I thought he'd surely make it, seeing the sections before.

Insane.

https://www.instagram.com/stories/aframephotos/3447348700694334928/?hl=en

dbut's picture
dbut's picture
dbut Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 10:57am

Think you can also see it on the end of the huge set at 9:46am on the replays

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 11:06am

Oh nice!

Reckon same wave though? That end section there fully came down on him on the cam, but in the vid looks to stay open more..

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 11:07am

Actually, yep looks the same, nice.

Tim Fisher's picture
Tim Fisher's picture
Tim Fisher Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 10:28am

Thanks for point out that clip. Hell of a wave.

only-sams's picture
only-sams's picture
only-sams Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 11:11am

Wow that cam replay does not do that wave justice vs the vid from the cliff - the cam angle totally removes the perspective of how far he's travelling down the line.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 11:29am

Doesn't it!

rogerdodger's picture
rogerdodger's picture
rogerdodger Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 12:15pm

Thats crazy.....balls of steel

rogerdodger's picture
rogerdodger's picture
rogerdodger Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 12:17pm

Hey only-sams, What time was the cam replay? Love to have a look at that

only-sams's picture
only-sams's picture
only-sams Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 12:20pm

He takes off at 9:46:30, last wave of the set

Weatherman's picture
Weatherman's picture
Weatherman Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 12:31pm

Hi Craig, what time is that big set in today's notes? Was an amazing weekend generally down here with the waves and crazy winds. A Victorian winter at its best.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 12:56pm

Near the end of 9:44am yesterday.

Weatherman's picture
Weatherman's picture
Weatherman Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 2:49pm

Thanks Craig.

rogerdodger's picture
rogerdodger's picture
rogerdodger Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 1:07pm

Thank you

only-sams's picture
only-sams's picture
only-sams Monday, 2 Sep 2024 at 1:09pm

Wilsons Prom has been gusting consistently over 50knt since about 2am - peaking mid 70's.

At this rate Tasmania might detach and end up washing up in Greymouth.