Extended large run of swell

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victorian Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Wednesday August 28th)

Best Days: Every day this period besides Monday

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Large W/SW swell building this afternoon, peaking tomorrow morning, easing into Fri
  • Fresh NW-N/NW winds tomorrow, strong W/NW Fri
  • Large, powerful W/SW groundswell building Sat, peaking overnight, easing Sun
  • Large reinforcing W/SW groundswell for Sun PM and Mon AM
  • Further large W/SW groundswell energy later Tue and Wed AM, easing Thu
  • Strong W/NW tending NW winds Sat, strong NW tending W/NW Sun
  • Strong W/NW winds early Mon, shifting W/SW then SW
  • Moderate N/NW winds Tue
  • Strong N-N/NW tending NW winds Wed, W/NW Thu

Recap

The surf was small and clean across the Surf Coast yesterday, mostly to 2ft with the odd bigger one around Barwon Heads, while to the east there were OK waves in the morning with the north wind and surf to 4ft.

Today, we’ve got a new W/SW groundswell in the water, but a localised, mid-period swell is overriding it, generated by strong frontal system pushing in through Bass Strait.

This is bringing strong winds but building surf with 3-4ft waves on the Surf Coast this morning, 6ft+ to the east. We should see the swell building steadily towards 6ft+ later this afternoon on the Surf Coast and 8ft+ to the east as winds shift more W and remain strong.

This week and next (Aug 29 - Sep 6)

Here we go.

We’ve got an excellent run of surf on the cards, starting from today with all the activity that’s been focussed across the southern Indian Ocean finally being dragged east by a strong node of the Long Wave Trough.

Today’s initial frontal system is generating a great fetch of gale to severe-gale W/SW winds, with a peak in large W/SW groundswell due tomorrow morning to 6-8ft on the Surf Coast, 10ft to the east.

Winds will ease and shift more NW-N/NW tomorrow, being fresh all day creating excellent conditions across most breaks.

Into Friday the swell will be down to 3-4ft or so on the Surf Coast, 6ft+ to the east under strong W/NW winds that will persist most of the day.

This will be ahead of the next swell generating system, that being a broad, southern ocean gyre with multiple frontal systems spinning around it from Friday through the weekend.

The first frontal system looks the strongest and most significant, with a fetch of severe-gale winds with embedded storm-force bursts due to project towards us through Friday and then across us Saturday.

A large, long-period W/SW groundswell is due from this front, building through Saturday, peaking overnight and easing Sunday.

We’ll then see a secondary, more zonal fetch of severe-gale W’ly winds generating a large, reinforcing groundswell for later Sunday and more so Monday morning.

Size wise, the Surf Coast looks to build to 8-10ft later Saturday, holding this size Sunday on the magnets with 8ft surf continuing Monday.

To the east it’ll be bigger and only surfable inside protected coves.

During this entire swell episode expect various ebbs and pulses but in general it’ll be large and only for the very experienced.

Local winds on the weekend will favour protected spots, and be strong from the W/NW tending NW on Saturday with strong NW tending W/NW winds through Sunday.

Monday still looks the rawest with early strong W/NW winds shifting W/SW through the morning and SW into the afternoon as another, weaker swell generating front moves through.

This will maintain large surf into Monday afternoon and Tuesday morning, while one final pulse of groundswell is due later Tuesday and Wednesday morning.

The source will be a trailing but strong frontal system moving under the country early next week, generating a fetch of severe-gale W/NW winds.

6ft+ sets are likely to persist across the Surf Coast later Tuesday and early Wednesday, easing thereafter.

Winds on Tuesday will tip back N/NW and ease back to the moderate range, with Wednesday seeing stronger N-N/NW tending NW winds.

Looking at the end of the week and moderate sized surf is still due with favourable winds for the Surf Coast Thursday, more exposed breaks next Friday. More on this in the next update.

Comments

PLStocks's picture
PLStocks's picture
PLStocks Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 9:06am

holy crap this is best extended run of large surf for a very long time.
This morning was not bad, bit of hard work getting into them at times
really looking forward to the next few days!

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 9:20am

Any word on the 50 year storm comp? Saturday is the last day of the waiting period.

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 9:21am

Actually it looks like that might be old dates. 1-20 August was the last window for this year.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 9:37am

How's the water temp down there at the moment ?
(asking for friend).

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 9:41am

About 13-14°C, not too bad.

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 9:47am

Heading down FR?

Water has started to warm up a touch but that wind will rip through wetties though.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 9:48am

13-14 rules me out.

I have a new 3/2 flashbomb that feels like wind blows straight through it.

Beagle's picture
Beagle's picture
Beagle Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 2:03pm

2mm balaclava vest underneath works a treat

AlfredWallace's picture
AlfredWallace's picture
AlfredWallace Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 7:54pm

Freeride76

Hi mate, hope you’re doing well.

All Winter down here, I’ve heard nothing but complaints from guys i chat to in the surf about Rip Curl wetsuits in general.
I wouldn’t touch one with a ten foot pole. And they’re expensive.
Most are barely getting a year out of them, also including taking them back to the shop with other issues.

Waste of your hard earned. AW

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 1:51pm

Quicky I have best ever.

spinafex's picture
spinafex's picture
spinafex Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 9:53am

13 ish. Wind chill will be an issue.

only-sams's picture
only-sams's picture
only-sams Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 9:43am

13.3 at the entrance

blackers's picture
blackers's picture
blackers Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 10:14am

Blew the dog off its chain last night. Heavy rubber is required. Water temp is pleasant otherwise. Stay away from big gum trees peeps.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 10:18am

Great recommendations.

Huddokneeboarder's picture
Huddokneeboarder's picture
Huddokneeboarder Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 10:31am

All the best to the crew at 2mile - hope it lines up for ya's

mbuckis's picture
mbuckis's picture
mbuckis Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 10:37am

It’ll be massive out there

Vince Neil's picture
Vince Neil's picture
Vince Neil Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 10:54am

one of those trendy wetsuit caps will make your 3/2 feel like a 4/3

only-sams's picture
only-sams's picture
only-sams Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 12:29pm

Gusting 45knt at Point Lonsdale - my skinny ass is gona need a weight belt this weekend.

Standingleft's picture
Standingleft's picture
Standingleft Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 3:05pm

Who's shredding out at Winki right now?
Hard Core
Squal just came through here was about to tear the roof off

Dx3's picture
Dx3's picture
Dx3 Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 3:28pm

Yeh that squall was absolutely insane as it blew through. Seems comparatively calm now!

WarriSymbol's picture
WarriSymbol's picture
WarriSymbol Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 6:22pm

Possos one on the few places on the weekend that will likely not be completely blown out and/or too large. So, of course, there is a friggin longboarders comp on.

only-sams's picture
only-sams's picture
only-sams Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 8:42pm

There’s a Torquay boardriders comp and bells Saturday also

Standingleft's picture
Standingleft's picture
Standingleft Wednesday, 28 Aug 2024 at 7:32pm

The bureau included extreme high tides in their wind warnings, Never noticed that before?
Novelty high tide spots?

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 6:06am

Huge spike on CS overnight

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 6:10am

Bit of a roguey!

cutty1957's picture
cutty1957's picture
cutty1957 Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 9:08am

Definitely not worthy of 8/10 rating

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 9:21am

It looks pretty good to me. Not proper pumping but 6ft+ and clean. After the run Vicco has had, it has to fit around 8?

5 - Above average surf - reasonable percentage of surfable waves, but with variable conditions at times
6 - Good surf - plenty of surfable waves with reasonable conditions
7 - Very good surf - plenty of surfable waves with good conditions
8 - Great surf - high percentage of quality waves with great conditions
9 - Excellent surf - high percentage of quality waves with excellent conditions
10 - Epic surf - as good as it gets

Remember ratings are also subjective, most people can make their own assessment off the report size, conditions and cameras.

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 11:02am

Craigoss just roundhouse’d you Cutback1957

Bnkref's picture
Bnkref's picture
Bnkref Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 11:16am

Haha. Pretty wild over your side today, NB?

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 2:11pm

Way out of control on the beaches

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 3:36pm

Yesterday was. Today big but lined up pretty well considering. Hopefully shakes things up round here.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 7:16pm

I'm imagining those rip bowls at 10ft...

Dx3's picture
Dx3's picture
Dx3 Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 7:40pm

Thoughts then on the 9/10 arvo report? It was a lot of fun and also a lot better than this morning which I’d probably have as 6-7 if we’re judging the scoring. Cheers Craigos!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 1:11pm

Jeez looks pretty bloody good to me!

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 7:15pm

& a couple of small earthquakes as the front approached and went over this week

https://7news.com.au/news/magnitude-34-earthquake-hits-hamilton-in-south...

sam_2's picture
sam_2's picture
sam_2 Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 11:48pm

YouTube channel Suspicious Observers dive into quakes and low pressure systems/fronts unsure how far back youd have to search but iv'e seen a few over the years where they make the connection.

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 6:48am

Yep totally, particle discharge through the systems, or something like that. First thing I go and look for when I hear about an earthquake is 'where is the cyclone/front?' Often it's nearby or crossing over.

Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a long board's picture
Mr.Tee on a lon... Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 8:00pm

This looks like the best surf forecast I have seen for a long time. Even novelty spots in W.P. could be surfable.

natjon651's picture
natjon651's picture
natjon651 Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 8:01pm

This morning was ok. Thought it wasn't going to get any better but how wrong i was. Was certainly 9/10 at winki on dusk. If you don't agree check the camera and see a proper pumping swell especially the set coming through about 6.25 pm. Cheers Craig great forecasting mate

southernraw's picture
southernraw's picture
southernraw Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 9:40pm

Whooaaa sick! Just had a squizz and without doubt absolutely firing. Hope you got a few crackers Cheers!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 30 Aug 2024 at 6:25am

My pleasure. Smoking!

Stormn's picture
Stormn's picture
Stormn Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 8:06pm

Wport was lovely this afternoon. Wind backed off nice crew in the water and plenty of waves for all.

stylemaster1970's picture
stylemaster1970's picture
stylemaster1970 Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 9:00pm

Was a good vibe in the water.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Thursday, 29 Aug 2024 at 8:42pm

Anyone lose a lynchy off their car?

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/vUKYd4di1KAwnWaN/?mibextid=79PoIi

Edit: never mind there’s a comment from the owner