Extended large run of swell
Victorian Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Wednesday August 28th)
Best Days: Every day this period besides Monday
Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)
- Large W/SW swell building this afternoon, peaking tomorrow morning, easing into Fri
- Fresh NW-N/NW winds tomorrow, strong W/NW Fri
- Large, powerful W/SW groundswell building Sat, peaking overnight, easing Sun
- Large reinforcing W/SW groundswell for Sun PM and Mon AM
- Further large W/SW groundswell energy later Tue and Wed AM, easing Thu
- Strong W/NW tending NW winds Sat, strong NW tending W/NW Sun
- Strong W/NW winds early Mon, shifting W/SW then SW
- Moderate N/NW winds Tue
- Strong N-N/NW tending NW winds Wed, W/NW Thu
Recap
The surf was small and clean across the Surf Coast yesterday, mostly to 2ft with the odd bigger one around Barwon Heads, while to the east there were OK waves in the morning with the north wind and surf to 4ft.
Today, we’ve got a new W/SW groundswell in the water, but a localised, mid-period swell is overriding it, generated by strong frontal system pushing in through Bass Strait.
This is bringing strong winds but building surf with 3-4ft waves on the Surf Coast this morning, 6ft+ to the east. We should see the swell building steadily towards 6ft+ later this afternoon on the Surf Coast and 8ft+ to the east as winds shift more W and remain strong.
This week and next (Aug 29 - Sep 6)
Here we go.
We’ve got an excellent run of surf on the cards, starting from today with all the activity that’s been focussed across the southern Indian Ocean finally being dragged east by a strong node of the Long Wave Trough.
Today’s initial frontal system is generating a great fetch of gale to severe-gale W/SW winds, with a peak in large W/SW groundswell due tomorrow morning to 6-8ft on the Surf Coast, 10ft to the east.
Winds will ease and shift more NW-N/NW tomorrow, being fresh all day creating excellent conditions across most breaks.
Into Friday the swell will be down to 3-4ft or so on the Surf Coast, 6ft+ to the east under strong W/NW winds that will persist most of the day.
This will be ahead of the next swell generating system, that being a broad, southern ocean gyre with multiple frontal systems spinning around it from Friday through the weekend.
The first frontal system looks the strongest and most significant, with a fetch of severe-gale winds with embedded storm-force bursts due to project towards us through Friday and then across us Saturday.
A large, long-period W/SW groundswell is due from this front, building through Saturday, peaking overnight and easing Sunday.
We’ll then see a secondary, more zonal fetch of severe-gale W’ly winds generating a large, reinforcing groundswell for later Sunday and more so Monday morning.
Size wise, the Surf Coast looks to build to 8-10ft later Saturday, holding this size Sunday on the magnets with 8ft surf continuing Monday.
To the east it’ll be bigger and only surfable inside protected coves.
During this entire swell episode expect various ebbs and pulses but in general it’ll be large and only for the very experienced.
Local winds on the weekend will favour protected spots, and be strong from the W/NW tending NW on Saturday with strong NW tending W/NW winds through Sunday.
Monday still looks the rawest with early strong W/NW winds shifting W/SW through the morning and SW into the afternoon as another, weaker swell generating front moves through.
This will maintain large surf into Monday afternoon and Tuesday morning, while one final pulse of groundswell is due later Tuesday and Wednesday morning.
The source will be a trailing but strong frontal system moving under the country early next week, generating a fetch of severe-gale W/NW winds.
6ft+ sets are likely to persist across the Surf Coast later Tuesday and early Wednesday, easing thereafter.
Winds on Tuesday will tip back N/NW and ease back to the moderate range, with Wednesday seeing stronger N-N/NW tending NW winds.
Looking at the end of the week and moderate sized surf is still due with favourable winds for the Surf Coast Thursday, more exposed breaks next Friday. More on this in the next update.
Comments
holy crap this is best extended run of large surf for a very long time.
This morning was not bad, bit of hard work getting into them at times
really looking forward to the next few days!
Any word on the 50 year storm comp? Saturday is the last day of the waiting period.
Actually it looks like that might be old dates. 1-20 August was the last window for this year.
How's the water temp down there at the moment ?
(asking for friend).
About 13-14°C, not too bad.
Heading down FR?
Water has started to warm up a touch but that wind will rip through wetties though.
13-14 rules me out.
I have a new 3/2 flashbomb that feels like wind blows straight through it.
2mm balaclava vest underneath works a treat
Freeride76
Hi mate, hope you’re doing well.
All Winter down here, I’ve heard nothing but complaints from guys i chat to in the surf about Rip Curl wetsuits in general.
I wouldn’t touch one with a ten foot pole. And they’re expensive.
Most are barely getting a year out of them, also including taking them back to the shop with other issues.
Waste of your hard earned. AW
Quicky I have best ever.
13 ish. Wind chill will be an issue.
13.3 at the entrance
Blew the dog off its chain last night. Heavy rubber is required. Water temp is pleasant otherwise. Stay away from big gum trees peeps.
Great recommendations.
All the best to the crew at 2mile - hope it lines up for ya's
It’ll be massive out there
one of those trendy wetsuit caps will make your 3/2 feel like a 4/3
Gusting 45knt at Point Lonsdale - my skinny ass is gona need a weight belt this weekend.
Who's shredding out at Winki right now?
Hard Core
Squal just came through here was about to tear the roof off
Yeh that squall was absolutely insane as it blew through. Seems comparatively calm now!
Possos one on the few places on the weekend that will likely not be completely blown out and/or too large. So, of course, there is a friggin longboarders comp on.
There’s a Torquay boardriders comp and bells Saturday also
The bureau included extreme high tides in their wind warnings, Never noticed that before?
Novelty high tide spots?
Huge spike on CS overnight
Bit of a roguey!
Definitely not worthy of 8/10 rating
It looks pretty good to me. Not proper pumping but 6ft+ and clean. After the run Vicco has had, it has to fit around 8?
5 - Above average surf - reasonable percentage of surfable waves, but with variable conditions at times
6 - Good surf - plenty of surfable waves with reasonable conditions
7 - Very good surf - plenty of surfable waves with good conditions
8 - Great surf - high percentage of quality waves with great conditions
9 - Excellent surf - high percentage of quality waves with excellent conditions
10 - Epic surf - as good as it gets
Remember ratings are also subjective, most people can make their own assessment off the report size, conditions and cameras.
Craigoss just roundhouse’d you Cutback1957
Haha. Pretty wild over your side today, NB?
Way out of control on the beaches
Yesterday was. Today big but lined up pretty well considering. Hopefully shakes things up round here.
I'm imagining those rip bowls at 10ft...
Thoughts then on the 9/10 arvo report? It was a lot of fun and also a lot better than this morning which I’d probably have as 6-7 if we’re judging the scoring. Cheers Craigos!
Jeez looks pretty bloody good to me!
& a couple of small earthquakes as the front approached and went over this week
https://7news.com.au/news/magnitude-34-earthquake-hits-hamilton-in-south...
YouTube channel Suspicious Observers dive into quakes and low pressure systems/fronts unsure how far back youd have to search but iv'e seen a few over the years where they make the connection.
Yep totally, particle discharge through the systems, or something like that. First thing I go and look for when I hear about an earthquake is 'where is the cyclone/front?' Often it's nearby or crossing over.
This looks like the best surf forecast I have seen for a long time. Even novelty spots in W.P. could be surfable.
This morning was ok. Thought it wasn't going to get any better but how wrong i was. Was certainly 9/10 at winki on dusk. If you don't agree check the camera and see a proper pumping swell especially the set coming through about 6.25 pm. Cheers Craig great forecasting mate
Whooaaa sick! Just had a squizz and without doubt absolutely firing. Hope you got a few crackers Cheers!
My pleasure. Smoking!
Wport was lovely this afternoon. Wind backed off nice crew in the water and plenty of waves for all.
Was a good vibe in the water.
Anyone lose a lynchy off their car?
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/vUKYd4di1KAwnWaN/?mibextid=79PoIi
Edit: never mind there’s a comment from the owner