A good run of waves and swell

Craig Brokensha picture
Craig Brokensha (Craig)

Victoria Forecast by Craig Brokensha (issued Friday 27th December)

Best Days: Exposed beaches dawn tomorrow, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday mornings Surf Coast, Friday exposed beaches

Recap

Poor surf yesterday with tiny waves on the coast and onshore breezes, while an inconsistent new W/SW groundswell due to build through today offered a slight lift in size this morning, though only to 1-1.5ft on the Surf Coast and and a better 3ft to the east but with onshore winds.

The bulk of the W/SW groundswell has impacted Cape Sorell and we should see it building into this afternoon, reaching an inconsistent 2-3ft on the Surf Coast swell magnets and 4-5ft to the east on the sets. Sea breezes will create bumpy conditions though.

This weekend and next week (Dec 28 – Jan 2)

This afternoon's increase in infrequent W/SW groundswell is expected to ease off slowly tomorrow, from 2ft+ on the sets across the Surf Coast swell magnets and 3-4ft to the east.

The window of clean conditions looks even smaller now for the exposed beaches, with a dawn N/NE breeze due to give into a SW change mid-late morning. Right ahead of this we may see winds tend NW. In any case go the early.

Sunday will be poor with a small to tiny leftover swell and onshore S/SE tending E/SE breeze ahead of sea breezes.

Moving into next week, and our increase in swell activity from the W/SW is still on track, with a flurry of strong mid-latitude frontal systems due to produce plenty of surf from Monday afternoon through Friday.

The first and strongest but most distant of these storms has developed west-southwest of WA, with a fetch of gale to severe-gale W/SW winds being generated in our western swell window.

This front is stronger and will push further east than the system linked to today's swell, hence generating a stronger, larger and more consistent W/SW groundswell that's expected to fill in late-morning to early afternoon and peak late in the day.

Size wise, the morning looks to only be 1-2ft on the Surf Coast and 3ft to the east, kicking rapidly to 3ft+ on the Surf Coast swell magnets by mid-late afternoon, 5-6ft on the Mornington Peninsula. Winds are still looking good with a morning N/NE breeze, freshening before shifting N/NW early afternoon and then NW later ahead of an evening SW change.

The swell is expected to ease a touch temporarily into Tuesday morning, back to 3ft on the Surf Coast swell magnets and 4-5ft to the east, while a new mid-period W/SW swell is due to build later in the day, and peak Wednesday.

This will be produced by a broader storm firing up just off the South West of WA, with a fetch of strong W/SW winds forecast to be generated through the Bight and then closer towards us into Tuesday before the storm dips east-southeast and under Tassie.

Size wise, the Surf Coast should offer fairly consistent 3-4ft waves Wednesday, 6ft on the Mornington Peninsula, easing slowly into Thursday and back further Friday from 2-3ft and 3-5ft respectively, slowed by a weaker mid-latitude front pushing through mid-week.

Winds look more favourable than they did on Friday owing to the mid-latitude front moving through during the week, though not Tuesday, with SW tending S/SW winds expected in the wake of later Monday's change.

Wednesday should see a morning W/NW breeze, shifting S/SW later morning, W/NW again Thursday morning ahead of S'ly sea breezes.

Come Friday we'll see winds swing around to the NE, opening up the exposed beaches as the swell eases.

Longer term we've got a smaller run of surf on the cards, so make the most of the coming swells. Have a great weekend!

Comments

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Sunday, 29 Dec 2019 at 8:39am

Happy New Year Craig & Ben and Stu & Swellnet crew, thanks for the forecasts!
With a bit of swell on the way who can complain - it's mid summer... now to go dust off the longboards for today's 1ft...
Hope you all had good Christmas!

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Sunday, 29 Dec 2019 at 7:15pm

You too VJ! Yeah looks like a fun week down there!

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Sunday, 29 Dec 2019 at 8:52pm

Yep time to cruise and enjoy a bit of it if we can. Lots of crew, parking on the hot days is 5 streets back from the back beach packed. Surprisingly, like FR and yourself have said in the QLD notes, it's possible to get a peak or little reef to yourself if you are creative, was swapping waves with young one for a couple of hours last week, no one else out.

Falls Festival has been cancelled which will be making the news (when your Mum phones you from Perth and tells you all about it, you know it's in the news! "Are you alright, will it be a dangerous day?" Fair enough, she lived through Ash Wednesday...) So I had a look via Windy and I can't see Armageddon tomorrow, winds look sub 15kts till late morning, temps are OK but then go to high 30s on the coast by 1pm to 3pm, (38 it reckons, so 5 degrees less than the really hot day before) then SW change and 15 degree drop as per normal). Meanwhile, east Gippsland is being evacuated as the national park areas are burning. I can only think that the Falls evacuation is an OH&S protocol reaction, "better safe than sorry" kind of thing. If a fire front does occur out the back there, you aren't going to get 9000 people out on one road in any reasonable time. One fire was inland of Beech Forest but under control with 27 trucks attending today, nothing big out there otherwise.

VicRhino's picture
VicRhino's picture
VicRhino Sunday, 29 Dec 2019 at 10:22pm

Agreed VJ.... also factor in that there would’ve been lots of people not able to drive out of Falls Festival due booze/drugs

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 9:35am

Yep, gotta watch out for bats, especially in a forest.

VicRhino's picture
VicRhino's picture
VicRhino Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 9:42am

Haha!

icandig's picture
icandig's picture
icandig Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 10:55am

Agreed about OHS and being better safe than sorry. Good call anyhow...my son was going and I wasn't super keen for him to be there. Don't forget that many emergency services crews have been deployed to the Gippsland with minimal left to look after the Otways. Fingers crossed there are no dramas.

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 5:08am

I was hoping that swell today would be ahead of that change but it looks pretty grim on CS still :(

Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone's picture
Nick Bone Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 5:54am

And its flat. The wound has healed a little but this disappearing swell is just dumping salt back on it.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 8:03am

Yeah, wow till flat lining CS, would have expected something by now, should hit very soon hopefully!

velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno's picture
velocityjohnno Monday, 30 Dec 2019 at 11:12am

Winds are picking up now, here's

https://emergency.vic.gov.au/respond/

the webpage for Vic Emergency if you don't already know it. Poor east Gippsland!