Windy period ahead with plenty of waves for Torquay

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Victoria Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 18th May)

Best Days: Thurs: late possibilities inside Western Port. Maybe a brief window in Torquay around lunch/early arvo as the swell builds, but before the wind swings W/SW. Fri: solid but easing swells on the Surf Coast, also good options in Western Port. Sat/Sun: great waves at open beaches. 

Recap: Wave heights built throughout Tuesday, reaching 3-4ft across the Surf Coast and 6ft+ east of Melbourne by the afternoon, under a fresh W/NW breeze. Wave heights have since trended slowly downwards today, despite the arrival of an (expected) long period W’ly groundswell overnight, which came in just under 18 seconds (peak periods) at the Cape Sorell buoy. This swell was simply too west in direction to favour all but the most exposed beaches east of Melbourne, which were wind affected anyway. Surf size broadly fell inline with expectations, easing from 2-3ft this morning in Torquay, becoming smaller this afternoon. The Mornington Peninsula and Phillip Island open beaches were around double the size.

This week (May 19th - 20th)

No major changes to the forecast issued on Monday. We’re still in the midst of a particularly active autumnal Southern Ocean pattern, and gale warnings are out for the coast on Thursday.

Initially, Thursday will start off small in size as the new swell(s) we’re expecting won’t arrive until the afternoon, having been generated by a deep mid-latitude low SW of Western Australia earlier this week. We'll also see some short range energy from a vigorous frontal pattern developing through the Bight, which will also bring about a gusty wind change to the region. 

At this stage by lunchtime we should be seeing a distinct upwards trend in wave heights towards a broad peak expected from very late afternoon (3-5ft Surf Coast), holding overnight and into early Friday morning (4-5ft), before easing into Friday afternoon.

The main problem with Thursday is that the late afternoon upwards trend will be accompanied by strong to gale force W’ly tending W/SW winds. So, options will be limited (and there probably won’t be enough size for protected locations, other than some small waves at Western Port).

Friday morning looks like much better bet, as we’ll see an early peak in size and a steady backing of the wind from the W to the W/NW, which will favour the Surf Coast and Western Port for good, reasonably clean waves. There may be some leftover lumpiness in the water to begin with but it should get better as the day wears on.

The Surf Coast should see early 4-5ft sets at the reefs, down to 3-4ft in the afternoon, whist Western Port is likely to see early 3-4ft sets at some of the more reliable reefs, becoming smaller during the day

Otherwise, exposed beaches east of Melbourne are likely to remain too big and wind affected under the easing westerly airstream. 

This weekend (May 21st - 22nd)

I am still very confident that we’ve got a great weekend of waves ahead for the open beaches. 

An amplifying upper level ridge (and surface level high pressure system) is expected to dominate much of the weekend’s weather, delivering moderate northerly winds on Saturday that’ll become quite fresh and gusty on Sunday

No significant new swell is expected over the weekend, but there’ll initially be plenty of leftover size from Friday on Saturday morning. Early sets on the Surf Coast should hold out in the 3ft range, whilst east of Melbourne could see 4-6ft bombs from time to time. Expect surf size to ease by a foot or so throughout the day, and also become a lot less consistent too. 

On Sunday morning, a small long distance groundswell is expected to grace the coast, having been generated by a deep low in our far swell window earlier this week. However I don’t think it’ll add much more size to the pre-existing (and easing) swell. 

I think we’ll be looking at very inconsistent 1-2ft waves west of Melbourne, and 3-4ft surf east of Melbourne (easing to 2-3ft during the day). So, get in early for the biggest waves both days. 

Next week (May 23rd onwards)

The weekend’s high pressure ridge across the SE corner of the country will act as a temporary block for approaching frontal systems, backing them up in the Bight. 

However, once the block breaks down around Sunday, and the fronts push through into Monday morning, I’m now no longer expecting an initially sizeable increase. The reason for this is that it looks like we’ll see several low pressure centres develop - one parent polar low near Antarctica, and then a steady of small lows embedded in the frontal stream through the Bight - but all unfavourably positioned within our swell window.

This will probably result in several unconsolidated fetches in the Southern Ocean - the primary fetch being very north in latitude, and very westerly in direction. Such characteristics are not favourable for Victoria’s surf potential. And unfortunately it looks like the polar low won’t remain at strength for very long. 

The trend for the remainder of the week looks very similar, with an active frontal pattern through the northern Bight and not enough storm activity through Victoria's primary swell window to get me excited. Sure, there’ll be waves across the region, though right now I’m expecting only brief pulses of energy along the Surf Coast worthy of your attention. Set waves might top out around 3ft (later Monday, early Tuesday then maybe again around Thursday, this last swell of which could be a little bigger), but otherwise we’re looking at smaller waves in Torquay. And it'll be quite windy too.

Exposed beaches will be quite a lot bigger but very wind affected.

So if you’ve got the opportunity, I’d make the most of what’s in store from late Thursday thru' Sunday, because although the synoptic pattern suggests another extended run of wintry conditions in Victoria for the long term period, I’m not so sure that it’ll be accompanied by typically strong strong swells. 

Let’s take another look on Friday to see how the models are evolving.

Comments

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 18 May 2016 at 4:08pm

Running a little late this afternoon, but the forecast is holding steady which is a good thing.

Wharfjunkie's picture
Wharfjunkie's picture
Wharfjunkie Wednesday, 18 May 2016 at 5:35pm

All you need to do now Ben is get a weekly report on where the best sandbanks are and we will be all over it. Anyhow what area of Westernport should I frequent on thursday arvo to make the most of the swell if it gets in?

brainiac's picture
brainiac's picture
brainiac Wednesday, 18 May 2016 at 9:09pm

i hear the banks are smoking at gunnamatta and woollies ;)

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 5:56am

Where is this new place Western Port? Have hardly heard mentioned it mentioned before, was Craig keeping it a secret because it is better than the surfcoast? What are the co-ordinates for my GPS.
Good work ben for not keeping Western Port to yourself. :)

southey's picture
southey's picture
southey Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 9:16am

Its West Port Albert . And we all know that its shadowed by snake island . It's got nothing on East Port Albert and Seaspray ........

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 9:40am

Yes, it's a um....unique area, matched by no other;)

Gary G's picture
Gary G's picture
Gary G Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 9:52am

Western Port Melbourne aka Vicco Kirra. Pumps in a seabreeze windswell

anothersurfer's picture
anothersurfer's picture
anothersurfer Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 12:51pm

Oh my god you guys couldn't possibly make it any easier could you!? No wonder there's crowds.

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 1:19pm

Mate , I need people to surf with at Port Albert. What are you up to this weekend, should come on down.

anothersurfer's picture
anothersurfer's picture
anothersurfer Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 1:42pm

Careful what you wish for! I guess it just irritates me that Swellnet is so explicit in the forecaster notes. I mean if you can't figure out what's happening by the weather/tide times and you have to be told exactly when and where to go by Swellnet then you probably don't know what you're doing and are likely just adding to the problem of crowds and agro in the water which is not good for anyone.

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 2:56pm

No agro over at Port Albert mate, we are protected from those harsh westerlies and the surfers here love to meet new surfers and if they play a bit of pool that would be a bonus as there is a pool comp on Saturday night at the PA pub, so we need new faces in the bar and the surf. A visiting surfer might get lucky at the disco on Saturday night to, with one of the two local girls.

Wharfjunkie's picture
Wharfjunkie's picture
Wharfjunkie Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 3:52pm

I thought the local Port Albert pub burnt down a few years back when the local caretaker passed out with a celebratory cigar in hand post stand up pits at Singapore Deep.

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 4:58pm

Wwelll...yyeeesss.....but it still lives on in our hearts.

Wharfjunkie's picture
Wharfjunkie's picture
Wharfjunkie Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 8:26pm

Spot on anothersurfer

Wharfjunkie's picture
Wharfjunkie's picture
Wharfjunkie Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 5:19pm

True Hako wheres the local watering hole now? Was fishing down that way a few months back and dropped in to the pub at Welshpool on the way home wouldn't want to upset the locals in the surf they would fuck you good and proper. Make the Bra Boys look like Choir Boys.

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Friday, 20 May 2016 at 6:30am

The local chaps are just a bit shy but really quite nice fellas, before they've had a few.

southey's picture
southey's picture
southey Thursday, 19 May 2016 at 9:18pm

Been a few long walks off short piers in this vicinity. Fishing is the third most favoured local past time . Fighting is miles in front first , and as Hako has pointed out fucking is't much of an option unless you like getting in line . So fighting comes a close second . Daylight till third .

Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ni-biki no inu's picture
Hako o hakonde ... Friday, 20 May 2016 at 6:28am

the new watering hole is just a few doors down from the old pub in Spike's converted garden shed, accessed from the back lane.