Easing swells and offshore winds as low sits near Tasmania- may redevelop later this week

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

Sydney Hunter Illawarra Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Mon Jun 3rd)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Strong S swell, easing in the a'noon,  with a smaller E/NE swell Mon, better conditions as winds go W
  • Easing S swells and small E/NE swell Tues 
  • Bump in E/NE swell later Tues, holding into Wed with offshore winds
  • Still uncertain outlook for second half of this week depending on low 
  • Low may move out and redevelop later this week bringing more S swell this weekend
  • Possible E/NE swell from infeed into low laster this week and into the weekend
  • Wintry pattern expected next week as strong fronts push up over the interior
  • Likely a series of S swells later next week- check back Wed for latest updates

Recap

Dynamic weekend unfolded as a trough off low pressure formed and deepened off the Central NSW Coast, moving generally S by S/SW over the weekend and intensifying. Small to start on Sat with a late kick in new SE swell. Sunday was super solid with S/SE- SE swells to 6-8ft+ and winds which veered offshore for most of the region as the low moved south. Still very solid today with pumping swells from the S-S/SE to 8ft (10ft sets) across exposed stretches, even bigger at open bommies, smaller into more sheltered corners and offshore W’ly winds under bluebird skies. An easing trend from the dominant S/SE swell is expected as swell generating winds are now tucked below the Gippsland coast.

Plenty of strong energy Sun with the lagoon showing how much rain fell

This week (Jun 3-7)

At 6am the coastal low is tucked in very close to the NSW/Victorian border with gales aimed primarily at Gippsland and NE Tasmania. A trough line connected to the low remains angled SW/NE in the Tasman with a N-N/NE infeed along the trough line. With the movement of the low into the coast, winds on the southern flank are now out of the swell window so we’ll be relying on the NE infeed into the trough and potential small lows forming in the trough line for swells in the short term once the current S/SE swell fades out. Models are suggesting remnants of the low eventually move back into more central parts of the Tasman and redevelop as frontal activity sweeps in later this week. Still a lot of model divergence on that scenario so expect plenty of revisions this week.

In the short run we should see all day offshores through tomorrow, and most of Wed as the low remnants linger off the Tasmanian/Gippsland coast. S/SE swell will drop right down in the mix, just a few 2-3footers tomorrow, with E/NE swell building from 2-3ft to 3 occ. 4ft in the a’noon. 

Expect that swell to hold into Wed morning before easing off. Depending on how the low remnants behave we may see winds shift more S/SW Wed a’noon. Either way there should be plenty of fun waves around.

Model divergence makes the second half of the week look very tricky. The low may continue to hug the Gippsland coast leading to SW winds and small surf. GFS suggests the low moving offshore and redeveloping, possibly joined by another trough of low pressure moving down from the sub-tropics. That may generate another round of fun E/NE swell from winds infeeding into the trough/low.

We’ll also pencil in some sort of rebuild in S-SE swell from the southern flank of a low either late this week or into the weekend. Definitely low confidence in specifics so if you can wait until Wed before making plans that would be prudent.

This weekend (Jun 8 - 9)

As per previous paragraph confidence is low on specifics for the weekend but there’s good odds we’ll see S swell, either bog standard frontal 3-4ft or a juicier 4-6ft with SW-S winds depending on how the low pressure situation resolves in the Tasman. Check back Wed and we’ll dial in specifics.

Next week (Jun 10 onwards)

Looks like we’ll see the first winter front sweep up across the SE of the country with winds likely to tend fresh W’ly (possibly pre-frontal NW) early next week.

Expect easing levels of whatever S-SE swells we have on tap into Mon or Tues. 

The first in a series of fronts is likely to be very zonal so only small S swells are expected.

A following front is showing signs of being much better aligned for swell production at this early stage so we may see a winter style S swell later next week.

We have to get through the current period of dynamic instability in the Tasman so expect some revisions when we come back Wed.

In the meantime enjoy the offshore winds.
Seeya Wed. 

Comments

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 10:33am

Swell has peaked, expect it to drop steadily from here now.

Panman's picture
Panman's picture
Panman Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 12:34pm

Offshores are killing a good swell here on the coaly, it’s far too strong

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 1:10pm

Incredibly frustrating, eh? The swell angle was about as good as you could wish for, and the size too, but the wind was just brutal.

Caught one wave and called it quits.

mick-free's picture
mick-free's picture
mick-free Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 10:22pm

Noooooooooooooo. Atleast you got swell. Didn't really get up here Stu.

Mickieyoyo's picture
Mickieyoyo's picture
Mickieyoyo Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 2:29pm

Fun on the sup in this wind!!!

daltz's picture
daltz's picture
daltz Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 1:28pm

Cooking south end on the Newy cams. Caves rolling in

evosurfer's picture
evosurfer's picture
evosurfer Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 3:46pm

Swell on the boil last night and this morning but the tap turned of at 1030
and was half the size after that

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 4:15pm

Few out at the island. Saw a spin in, flip out. SIC chargers warming up.

greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 4:22pm

Solid this morning for the Sunrise session , however by 10ish the swell was fading fast & the wind was really staring to get up. The early was definately the GO!

Bubble elder's picture
Bubble elder's picture
Bubble elder Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 5:29pm

Crazy day, from 10ft plus and too big this morning at dawn to this afternoon lucky to be 4ft sets

Sanga's picture
Sanga's picture
Sanga Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 9:05pm

Still a few 6ft bombs on the NB at dusk. Best surf I've had in a long time

sean killen's picture
sean killen's picture
sean killen Tuesday, 4 Jun 2024 at 8:50am

Demolition complete we have a new backyard thanks Jesus sorry I’m mean HUEY!!!!

sean killen's picture
sean killen's picture
sean killen Wednesday, 5 Jun 2024 at 8:07am

Local was all time this morning definitely worth waking up ..peaks rip bowls epic sess