Enough swell energy for fun options on the weekend
Sydney Hunter Illawarra Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri 3rd March)
Forecast Summary (tl;dr)
- Traces of long period S swell Fri-Sun, biggest Sun
- Light winds Sat, tending N/NE Sun and freshening
- Small amounts of E/NE swell all weekend
- Small mixed bag continues into next week with NE winds, NE windswell Mon PM/Tues
- Complex low moves into Tasman next week, pulses of S swell ahead from Wed-Fri
- Tropics downgraded as depressions or TC’s race away to the SE
Recap
Small surf yesterday with a mix of S swell to 2-3ft which perked up a notch in the a’noon under a light SE-ESE flow. Today has seen light morning variable/offshore winds with a notch more long period S swell producing sets to 3ft+ at facing beaches (a few 4ft bombs at some of the more reliable S swell magnets), smaller elsewhere. Light E/SE winds are on the radar as seasonal land breezes fade out.
This weekend (Mar 4-5)
No great change to the weekend f/cast. A weak ridge from a high (1023hPa) tracking towards Tasmania supplies weak breezes tomorrow, likely SW inshore early before tending light SE-NE through the day. A continuing mix of S swells, mostly mid period from the frontal progression below Australia supplies some 2-3ft surf at S swell magnets, smaller elsewhere. A small amount of E/NE swell filtering down from the tropics adds some 1-2ft energy to the mix. Be on the lookout for a late pulse of longer period S swell at reliable swell magnets which should add some 3ft+ sets into the mix.
Light NW winds for Sun morning which will be favourable for S swell magnets. Long period S swell will see 3ft+ sets (possibly 4ft at more reliable magnets). High pressure moves quickly into the Tasman creating a N-NE flow through Sun which will kick up through the a’noon into the 20kt range.
Next week (Mar6 onwards)
N’ly winds freshen through Mon as a complex low approaches from the W and tightens pressure gradients across the region. Small mix of swells is expected with easing S swell supplying a few sets early to S facing beaches in the 2-3ft range before easing off. Some small E/NE swell generated as both TC Judy and TC Kevin race through the swell window and add a bit of scattered E-E/NE energy to the East Coast as they go. Nothing major, just a few 2ft sets. Through the a’noon expect NE windswell to start to build up into the 2-3ft range.
A trough in advance of a front linked to the complex low brings a clearing W’ly flow through Tues morning with clean NE windswell in the 3ft range expected. Pencil that one in.
By Mid week we’ll see a synoptic W’ly flow being driven across temperate NSW by the complex low and front which is expected to be slow moving in Tasmanian longitudes. That should see a low point in wave heights Wed AM with groomed conditions and tiny surf in the 1-2ft range.
A Bass Strait fetch of gales protruding into the Tasman Tues should see a kick in new directional S swell later Wed, likely into the 3ft range at S facing beaches from Sydney up to the Hunter (bigger 3-4ft on the Hunter).
More reliable S swell fills in Thurs as SW/SSW winds push NE into the Tasman. We’ll finesse size and timing on Mon but at this early stage pencil in size of 3ft at S facing beaches with light winds as a weak, troughy pattern slips into the Tasman.
Smaller pulses then looks to supply small S swell into the end of next week and the weekend. Nothing too major as winds are quite zonal in the fetch so not ideally aimed for swell production into our side of the Tasman Sea.
Further ahead and models are suggesting an intensification of a last fetch of the frontal progression next weekend, suggesting a strong pulse of SSE swell early week of 13/3. Tropics remains active so we’ll keep tabs on that as well and report back Mon.
Seeya then and have a great weekend!
Comments
Bank maker 2023..
'Tis the Port Frederik (dredger).
So weird to see my childhood home on Swellnet. Weird map, small streets are named, bigger ones no mention.
Also water temps inshore right now are crazy. Today the background temp felt 22-23°C but there were warmer pools that were noticeably warmer and 24-25°C?
Even though we had some heavy rain today in my parts, the water was ridiculously warm this arvo.
Nice increase in swell this arvo.. paddled out 2ft then boom 3/4ft sets fired up ..scored a bank to myself for an 1hr ..then got invaded .. got me fix ..
This morning at Sydney local, 1', slight onshore, raining, big surf comp taking up most of the available beach. Big day of work, 5.15 pm and the water is glassy, sweet 2-3' long period swell, heaps of surfers and a joyful body bash in the flags with small numbers. Serious enjoyment.
CentralCoast : 2mtrs @ 15-16 seconds NW winds, sunny, reefs are pumping , my knees are creeking, getting too old in my mind . Have a good day.
Yeh cenny coast on first light this morning was all time easy 6ft pumping offshore beautiful sunrise. Way over performing compared to the charts for once
6ft sets occassionally here now. Doubled in size since dawn. To straight for the beach though. Hopefully the sand from the dredge will get pushed in.
Scored some very juicy waves this morning.. south facing beach.. plenty of power ..
4 foot PLUS. So good. Gotta love autumn.
Cooked from the sun but otherwise very satisfied
A cracker weekend working the S'ly groundswell and north winds. Bath like water temps as well south of Sydney.