Slow, slow, slow period of waves ahead

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 2nd September)

Best Days: Fri: small combo of swells at exposed beaches with light morning winds. 

Recap: Tuesday’s south swell came in at the bottom of forecast expectations, with sets around the 3ft range at south facing beaches, bigger across the Hunter but smaller elsewhere. Early light offshore winds gave way to afternoon sea breezes. Easing wave heights into the afternoon bottomed out around 2ft today, being a mix of residual S’ly swell and small NE windswell. Light morning northerly winds are now freshening from the N/NE.

Small peaks across the Manly stretch this afternoon

This week (Sep 5 - 6)

Thursday looks a little average on the surface with generally moderate to fresh N’ly winds across most coasts. There may be pockets of lighter winds here and there, but on the balance expect conditions to be a little ordinary. 

There will however be some small waves on offer, being small residual S/SE swell and some minor NE windswell from an anchored fetch off the NSW coast. Wave heights will be lucky to crack much more than about 2ft at exposed beaches, but it’ll be rideable if you’re very keen. 

Friday will see a significant improvement in conditions as a front pushes off the coast, creating light offshore winds ahead of weak afternoon sea breezes. 

Small S’ly swells will persist across the region - in fact the wavelength may draw out a little, as a smaller though longer period event glances the coast, generated by an intense though poorly aligned low passing south of the Tasman over the last few days.

I can’t see there being much more than 2ft at most south facing beaches (a little bigger across the Hunter) and set waves will probably be extremely inconsistent. The NE windswell from Thursday should also be present, with slow 1-2ft sets on offer. Keep your expectations low and you might pick up a lil’ beachie here and there.

This weekend (Sep 7 - 8)

It’s been interesting watching the evolution of the weather models over the last few days, regarding the weekend outlook. 

In Wednesday’s notes I mentioned a possible low forming in the wake of Friday's regional troughiness, and an outside chance for a local E/SE swell. Tuesday’s model runs ramped this up, but today it’s all but gone - so we’re probably looking at small background energy both days, maybe stray 1-2ft long period sets out of the south (15 mins between waves) on Saturday plus some minor NE windswell (1ft or less), and then some minor S/SE windswell on Sunday in the wake of a brief S’ly change later Saturday. 

So right now, I’d be inclined to flag the weekend and look for other activities. But, if things change over the coming days I’ll update in the comments below.

Next week (Sep 9 onwards)

The swell window looks inactive through the start of next week, with correspondingly small surf size expected across Southern NSW.

A strong southerly change is expected around Wednesday and trailing fronts behind should supply some solid - though potentially wind affected - south swell through the second half of the week. 

At the same time, a broadening E’ly fetch south of Fiji and New Caledonia will generate some small E/NE swell for the end of next week onwards (into the following weekend) but it’s not looking to be anything amazing at this stage. 

See you Friday!

Comments

teaqueue's picture
teaqueue's picture
teaqueue Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 5:16pm

Booooo. 5 weeks out after altercation with a solid one, and now it goes flat when I'm back on the froth.

Panman's picture
Panman's picture
Panman Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 5:41pm

Toonalook here we come

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 5:55pm

Manly looking epic compared to the local, which had basically no rideable waves. Perhaps it was wave of the day.

sean killen's picture
sean killen's picture
sean killen Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 5:57pm

Welcome to spring!!! the golden run of waves has ceased .. dust off the mals

Montygoesbananas's picture
Montygoesbananas's picture
Montygoesbananas Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 6:04pm

Yep Spring has sprung, cue cold water and tiny waves. Can’t complain after an epic winter though.

evosurfer's picture
evosurfer's picture
evosurfer Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 6:48pm

Murphys law just as I finally get healthy after the best winter in many
years the swell goes on holidays.

Lottolonglong's picture
Lottolonglong's picture
Lottolonglong Friday, 4 Sep 2020 at 4:13pm

Yeah tell me about it,my last surf was mid March cuz of a broken arm
I finally got in water last week in very ordinary conditions and waited over an hour for one, inbetween sets a guy was bragging to his mates about how he has been scoring non stop as it's been so consistent and clean blah blah
Next wave I paddled in, called it and same guy clean burnt me
Paddled over to him to thank him for his effort

dannyz's picture
dannyz's picture
dannyz Wednesday, 2 Sep 2020 at 10:16pm

thank christ for that my body needs a break

joesydney's picture
joesydney's picture
joesydney Friday, 4 Sep 2020 at 10:29am

Gawd the banks went from great to crap in 3 weeks and the swell has dried up.....