Plenty of fun southerly swell ahead

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Friday 8th November)

Best Days: Most days should see fun S'ly swell throughout the forecast period. Looking biggest Sunday, though early Monday should have the best conditions. 

Recap: Thursday was tiny with just a minor NE swell across the open beaches. Today has continued the tiny theme at most beaches, but a small pulse of southerly swell has pushed across the coast, offering 1-1.5ft sets at Sydney’s south swell magnets, and occasionally 2ft across the exposed Hunter beaches (see Newcastle surfcam image below). Conditions are clean with gusty offshore winds. 

Small lines at Wanda/Greenhills this arvo

Nice small waves in Newcastle

This weekend (Nov 9 - 10)

No major changes to the weekend outlook.

A series of fronts will rocket into the Tasman Sea overnight, building a series of overlapping short range S’ly swells into Saturday ahead of a peak late Sunday. In fact, the timing of the main pulse from this sequence has been pulled forward since Wednesday’s forecast, from Monday to Sunday afternoon.

The fetches trailing each front will be considerably off-axis (aligned SW-NE) but they’ll generate some decent size, around 3ft+ on Saturday and then pushing into the 3-5ft range on Sunday. South swell magnets and other reliable coastal regions such as the Hunter should see bigger waves, reaching a peak on Sunday in the 5-6ft range.

As per usual, expect much smaller surf at beaches not open to the south.

Conditions look pretty good for the most part - the mornings should see early W/SW thru’ SW winds but each afternoon will trend moderate S’ly, maybe S/SE. So aim for an early surf for the best conditions. 

Next week (Nov 11 onwards)

As mentioned above, the storm sequence has been sped up over the last few days, so the peak we were expecting Monday will occur on Sunday.

As such, the start of the new week will be on the downwards trend from this event. South facing beaches should still manage 3-4ft sets early on (easing to 2-3ft during the day) and the Hunter should see larger waves at times. It’ll be much smaller elsewhere though. 

Conditions look excellent with light W/NW winds and afternoon sea breezes. 

Tuesday looks pretty small with residual S’ly swell maybe offering a few 2ft sets at south facing beaches early on (smaller later) plus a smaller NE swell from overnight N’ly winds. We’ll see clean conditions with pre-frontal NW winds across most regions. 

A late S’ly change will probably clear to the east across many coasts on Wednesday morning, leaving us with generally favourable conditions, and we’ll see an initial building S’ly swell from W/SW gales exiting eastern Bass Strait later Tuesday. This should perk up south facing beaches into the 2-3ft range (bigger across the Hunter, smaller elsewhere) but as per the last Forecaster Notes, I’m much more interested in an associated series of much stronger fronts and lows south of Tasmania, which should generate better quality southerly groundswell for Thursday and Friday. 

Both Thursday and Friday are looking good on the surface with light morning winds, but afternoon N’lies will present a few problems. However at this stage we should see solid S’ly swell in the 3-4ft+ range across south facing beaches, larger near 5-6ft across the Hunter.

Let’s take a closer look on Monday. 

Have a great weekend!

Comments

science's picture
science's picture
science Sunday, 10 Nov 2019 at 2:35pm

20ft+ forecast for Nov 22nd! I know that'll get downgraded to 2ft by the end of the day but it's pretty exciting. I'm here as a weather nerd, I almost never surf.

doesn't appear on WAMS, probs a model error

aaaannd it's gone. Forecast is now 2ft haha. Such is the nature of trying to see into the future

nemeakes's picture
nemeakes's picture
nemeakes Sunday, 10 Nov 2019 at 8:05am

Let’s hope it doesn’t downgrade!

belly's picture
belly's picture
belly Sunday, 10 Nov 2019 at 11:19am

Saw that this morning. Haven't looked at long range charts. ECL maybe.. Don't think we've had one this year.

mrkook's picture
mrkook's picture
mrkook Sunday, 10 Nov 2019 at 6:33pm

So is this Sunday kick late or not happening at all?

Wyre's picture
Wyre's picture
Wyre Sunday, 10 Nov 2019 at 7:12pm

Seems to be happening now down at the Coal Coast. Hopefully there's a few for the morning session left over!

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Sunday, 10 Nov 2019 at 9:55pm

'Twas definetely happening in at Finbox this arvy for the music fest. Shoulda called, good times, mebbe next year.

mrkook's picture
mrkook's picture
mrkook Monday, 11 Nov 2019 at 10:59am

The bump turned up - I had a lot of fun at freshy this morning

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Monday, 11 Nov 2019 at 11:05am

Same one beach further north.