Average short term period, then a big pulse from the south

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 1st May)

Best Days: Windy but workable surf most days; NE on Thurs/Fri, then strong S'ly from Sat PM, Sun into Mon. Plenty of E'ly swell next week too. 

Recap: Tuesday delivered good S’ly swells to 3-4ft at exposed south facing beaches, before easing late into the afternoon and further overnight. Light morning offshores preceded freshening afternoon NE breezes, which kicked up 2-3ft of NE windswell this morning. Conditions have been clean with mainly light winds. 

This week (May 2-3)

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

A stationary high in the eastern Tasman Sea will maintain northerly winds over the region for Thursday and Friday. 

They’re expected to be fresh at times (tending N/NE into the afternoon), which will cause surface conditions to deteriorate. However early mornings should see periods of lighter winds, possibly a touch N/NW in some places though mainly N'ly. It won’t be great but it’ll be workable.

The upside is that this airstream will concurrently maintain peaky NE windswell across the region both days, somewhere in the 2ft to almost 2-3ft range. Expect smaller surf at south facing beaches.

A slight easing in the size department may also occur Friday afternoon as the fetch weakens through the day.

This weekend (May 4-5)

A front is expected to cross the coastal margin early Saturday, swinging winds to the south though initially there may not be a lot of strength on offer.

However, we’re expecting gusty conditions into the afternoon, persisting into Sunday as a deep Tasman Low develops in the central/southern Tasman Sea. Winds should hold from the SW early Saturday but then tend S/SW during the day. Mainly S/SW winds are expected Sunday though early morning may see pockets of SW winds here and there.

At this stage, most of the weekend’s increase in surf size will be related to local winds, and therefore the swell quality won’t be especially high. Better quality groundswell is expected early next week from several sources, but despite set waves building to 3ft+ by Saturday afternoon and 5-6ft+ by Sunday (at south facing beaches, much smaller elsewhere), sheltered locations will be your only reliable option. Keep your expectations low and you'll find options at southern ends.

Next week (May 6 onwards)

We’ve got plenty of swell due next week.

A series of deep polar lows travelling along the ice shelf well south of Tasmania on Saturday will kick up small long period S'ly energy for Monday and Tuesday, peaking around 3-4ft at south facing beaches.

However there’s much more size potential from the weekend’s Tasman Low. Model guidance is a little all over the shop right now, but we’re looking at potentially large SE thru' S’ly swells persisting through Monday in the 6ft+ range (latest data suggests a brief spike north of 8ft+ right now - see below - but let's not get ahead of ourselves), easing Tuesday but being replaced with a moderate E’ly swell from a stationary fetch on the eastern flank of the associated trough occupying the western Tasman Sea. 

This particular region looks pretty juicy, as the resulting fetch is likely to extend further back into the South Pacific swell window and is thus a potentially longer term source of E/NE swell for the region, if the Tasman trough remains slow moving through the  week (which is quite likely).

At this stage Tues/Wed/Thurs could all see E’ly swell anywhere between 3-5ft with much better conditions as the local S’ly flow eases, and there’s certainly more than a couple of ingredients on the boil for another significant swell generating system to redevelop in the Tasman Sea towards the end of the working week too, that could supply stronger surf into next weekend.

Let’s take another look on Friday.

Comments

redmondo's picture
redmondo's picture
redmondo Wednesday, 1 May 2019 at 5:44pm

Like the action shots in Newcastle today.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 1 May 2019 at 7:13pm

"big" pulse?

gunther's picture
gunther's picture
gunther Wednesday, 1 May 2019 at 7:31pm

It looks good to me, havent seen a retrograding tasman low for some time

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 1 May 2019 at 8:08pm

Maps I am looking at show the low forming with the fetch aimed up squarely at southern NSW, then the low contracts south and westward with the fetch aimed more at Gippsland/Tasmanian targets, then it completely fizzes.
Hardly any fetch aimed into our swell window for any meaningful length of time.

Not seeing much at all.

Love to be wrong.

It does leave a broad north-south oriented trough axis in the central Tasman so maybe the following system might do something.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Wednesday, 1 May 2019 at 8:48pm

Steve you’ve drifted too far south :p go back to your region. Ha

Stu2d2's picture
Stu2d2's picture
Stu2d2 Wednesday, 1 May 2019 at 9:11pm

Clearly can’t help himself.

Mate last week you kinda picked this, I looked at the GFS and it wasn’t really calling it (maybe other models were?). I did note that the MJO is positive in our quadrant at the moment though and thought that might have been the reason?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 5:44am

Yeah I mentioned it last week, but then it fell apart on the weekend, good to see it come back in some form.

Stu2d2's picture
Stu2d2's picture
Stu2d2 Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 1:20pm

Yeah but did you base the call on the MJO or were you looking at something else?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 1:22pm

Ah, sorry missed that part of your question. No just that most of the models were showing this formation. Right now they've totally split regarding where it will form, but something is set to develop, it's just where between the Mid North Coast and Tasmania.

gunther's picture
gunther's picture
gunther Saturday, 4 May 2019 at 7:12am

Arrgh you were right. Tuesday's looking good for my area though

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Wednesday, 1 May 2019 at 8:52pm

Frother!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 2 May 2019 at 6:42am

Models have upgraded the south swell overnight from 6-8ft to 10ft at south facing beaches. I wouldn't read too much into the numbers right now but the (model) trend is the key thing to watch right now.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:22am

Now you see it, now you don't.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:33am

It's been a great year for the much anticipated non-swell.

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 3 May 2019 at 9:47am

I was reading a book off my bookshelf last night , got to the end and there’s a blurb on the authors.

I think that you’re one of them.

Got a couple of copies of it !

jackhorgan's picture
jackhorgan's picture
jackhorgan Friday, 3 May 2019 at 12:23pm

any chance of the swell coming back again........... very upset!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 3 May 2019 at 12:29pm

Still plenty of swell potential. This event had two main swell components (S'ly windswell for the weekend, now majorly downgraded) but also a SE swell for Mon/Tues (and some underlying S'ly groundswell too). I'll take a closer look this afternoon once we get another model update.

Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfcockneyfullaussie's picture
Halfscousehalfc... Saturday, 4 May 2019 at 9:47am

Hints of an East coast low possibly next weekend?!