Extended period of mediocrity across Southern NSW

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

Sydney, Hunter and Illawarra Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wednesday 27th December)

Best Days: Thurs, Fri & Sat mornings: small peaky E'ly (then NE) swells with light winds. Sun: small S'ly swell with light winds through the middle of the day.

Recap: Onshore winds have persisted for the last few days, though Tuesday afternoon saw speeds drop below 10kts. A small E’ly swell built across the region though it hasn’t been particularly strong, sets have hovered around the 2ft+ mark.

Today’s Forecaster Notes are brought to you by Rip Curl

This week (Dec 28 - 29)

Today’s E’ly swell will ease throughout Thursday, and winds will freshen from the N/NE as a weak trough approaches from the west. As such, expect small, slow waves across the region, easing from 1-2ft+ at exposed beaches, smaller at south facing locations.

Thursday afternoon’s NE breeze will generate a minor NE windswell for Friday morning. The trough won’t dramatically change the local wind field but we should see Thursday’s northerly ease to a light and variable breeze Friday morning, before the northerly resumes again into the afternoon

Expect size to rebound slightly into the 2ft range at most open NE facing beaches (smaller elsewhere, especially the northern Hunter), with the odd bigger set at reliable NE swell magnets. However it’ll be a slow, weak windswell and quality will be very hard to find.

This weekend (Dec 30 - 31)

The strength of Friday’s NE breeze has been reduced in the latest model runs which has downgraded the surf size potential for Saturday morning. NE facing beaches may see some occasional 2ft sets but it’ll be smaller elsewhere and size is expected to ease throughout the day.

Fortunately, conditions are looking clean with an unstable trough pattern expected across most of the region ahead of a late afternoon southerly change in the south, extending into Sydney coasts overnight

This change will quickly clear east into the Tasman Sea on Sunday, with a possible lingering S/SE breeze across a handful of coasts becoming light and variable through the middle of the day, ahead of a late freshening NE breeze. The change won’t have much oomph in its trailing fetch but south facing beaches should pick up some 2ft+ sets on Sunday. Elsewhere, expect a small mix of S’ly swell and leftover NE swell around 1-1.5ft.

Next week (Jan 1st onwards)

The parent low to Saturday’s late S’ly change will be poorly aligned for our coast, but we should see a small associated long period S’ly swell build through Monday, reaching a peak late afternoon across a handful of south facing beaches. 

Most beaches will be lucky to see anything at all, but a couple of locations may pick up some stray 2ft+ sets into the afternoon (smaller early) - and it's more likely that the Hunter will see the upper end of this size range than anywhere else. But, it’s a low percentage event though so I certainly wouldn’t rack up any mileage looking for waves. 

Note: the models aren’t picking up this swell at all, but remember last week’s south swell that produced 3ft+ sets in Newcastle? That also flew under the models’ radar (but not mine). So, keep your eyes open for signs of activity.

A second, stronger series of Southern Ocean lows will track below Tasmania around Sunday and Monday, generating a slightly better south swell likely to arrive later Wednesday or Thursday. This may punch slightly higher (2-3ft in the Hunter, and a handful of south swell magnets) but on the balance it’s not worth getting too excited about.

Elsewhere, the weekend’s trough will move east early next week and meander about the Tasman Sea for a few days, though model guidance suggests it’ll never develop any favourable well generating characteristics (for our coast, anyway). 

Otherwise, the synoptic charts remain benign into the long term which suggests an extended period of minor activity for our coastline. Let’s see how things are looking on Friday. 

Comments

Woof woof 41's picture
Woof woof 41's picture
Woof woof 41 Wednesday, 27 Dec 2017 at 11:11pm

Blah! Come on Hugh balls! Send us some if that tropical Behavior your dishing up on the north western Australian coast....

Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23 Thursday, 28 Dec 2017 at 8:08am

Please can the Northern beaches reporter stop referring to 1-2ft slop as a 'peaky' swell
Thanking you in advance

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 28 Dec 2017 at 8:14am

Hi Johnno, I do the Northern Beaches report. Swell is definitely peaky.

You could also call it sloppy as well but I usually associate sloppy with surf that's had lots of onshore on it, and then the wind backs off. This morning was actually nice and clean with a light offshore breeze and peaky small sets at magnets.

Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23 Thursday, 28 Dec 2017 at 10:56am

Why don't we both just call ii shit and be done with it

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 28 Dec 2017 at 12:03pm

And Merry Christmas to you too!

Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23's picture
Johnno 23 Thursday, 28 Dec 2017 at 12:57pm

Merry Christmas Craig !
Keep up the good work in 2018 brother!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 28 Dec 2017 at 1:53pm

We’ll put up an article shortly that will describe each of the conditions used in our reports. There’s a subtle difference between lumpy, bumpy, sloppy, choppy, stormy.

mg7's picture
mg7's picture
mg7 Friday, 29 Dec 2017 at 10:42am

Not sure where 1-2ft Friday came from. This morning at Manly, the winds were light and variable so it was glassy and there were solid 4ft sets with some great peaks on offer. The mist that came in the morning also added to the nice conditions. I think your forecast almost always under or over estimates by a few feet sometimes?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 29 Dec 2017 at 11:21am

Actually, the forecast for today was a little bigger than 1-2ft. From the above notes:

"Expect size to rebound slightly into the 2ft range at most open NE facing beaches, with the odd bigger set at reliable NE swell magnets."

Manly is the unnamed NE swell magnet I usually refer to so I'm not surprised if there were 3ft sets. But a steady 4ft? Doesn't look anywhere near that big.  

FWIW, Monday's forecast (for Friday) was 2-3ft but I slightly downgraded it on Wednesday because the models pulled back the strength of the fetch.  

mg7's picture
mg7's picture
mg7 Friday, 29 Dec 2017 at 1:13pm

It wasnt steady 4ft. The swell was inconsistent and pulsed. At around 730 - 9 there was odd 4ft end of sets and the swell was quite solid, lot of moving water. They also closed the beach but not sure if it was to do with swell

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 29 Dec 2017 at 2:45pm

If I'd forecast 4ft NE surf for today, I'd have been crucified by all and sundry for overcalling. Most Southern NSW surf reports were in the 2ft range today, with the Northern Beaches 2-3ft. As such I don't think today's forecast was very far off (in hindsight, I wish I hadn't downgraded Monday's size, but that's just the way these things go). 

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 29 Dec 2017 at 11:01am

Just surfed North Steyne, super fun 2-3ft waves, a lot better with less water.

blindboy's picture
blindboy's picture
blindboy Friday, 29 Dec 2017 at 2:06pm

Ben I think you should submit your definitions of sloppy choppy bumpy and lumpy to the Macquarie Dictionary. I'm almost serious!

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 29 Dec 2017 at 2:45pm

Ha! Yeah that ain't a bad idea. Quite a few other terms that could be submitted too.

shoredump's picture
shoredump's picture
shoredump Friday, 29 Dec 2017 at 3:29pm

My all time favourite is swell event. No need to explain the subtle differences there, I know it means f@*#ing pumping