Plenty of fun easterly swell on the boil

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Wed 19th Mar)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Fun E'ly swell building Thurs, easing Fri/Sat, generally clean with light winds (exception SC THurs, MNC Fri)
  • Small S'ly swell glancing Northern NSW later Thurs/Fri
  • Small leftovers Sun
  • Rebuilding fun E'ly swell Tues/Wed/Thurs, and a possible bigger swell next weekend
  • S'ly swell on the cards for later next week too

Recap

Southerly swells managed 4-5ft sets across south facing beaches in Far Northern NSW on Tuesday morning, though conditions were somewhat wind affected. Surf size was smaller south from Coffs, and also across SE Qld where we saw anywhere between clean-ish 2ft (semi-exposed points) and bumpy 3-4ft (exposed northern end). Size has eased today and winds have gone around to the east though it’s remained generally light. 

This week (Mar 20 - 21)

A small easterly trade swell will build through Thursday, offering some fun waves (banks permitting) throughout SE Qld and Northern NSW, before easing very slightly through Friday.

This swell is the result of a slow moving high in the Tasman Sea and a trough of low pressure in the far northern Coral Sea, with an anchored, strengthening fetch between the two (see below) expected to whip up 2-3ft sets across most locations. The Sunshine Coast could see a touch more size, however locations south from about Yamba will pick up smaller surf as they’ll be positioned just out of the direct fetch alignment. 

Local winds look pretty good thanks to a weak synoptic flow at the coastal margin. In general we’ll see light onshores across most regions, though variable conditions are expected through the mornings which could offer outflow offshore winds. 

The only exception here is the Mid North Coast, which will see freshening NE thru’ N’ly winds from Thursday afternoon into Friday, courtesy of a ridge along the Southern NSW coast. 

The Sunshine Coast will also be located a little closer to the ridge across the lower Coral Sea/northern Tasman Sea, which could also result in a little more strength in the local easterly breeze (the upside is the slight increase in surf size, relative to southern regions).

Either way, it’ll be well worth scouting the open beaches for something worthwhile.

Also, as a side note for Northern NSW, we’ll also see a small south swell glance the coast later Thursday and Friday, generated by a strong but poorly aligned cold front below the continent earlier this week. 

In general we’re looking at very inconsistent, long-lined 2ft sets at south friendly beaches, however I wouldn’t be surprised if some of the region’s more reliable south swell magnets pick up 2-3ft waves. 

This south swell will be very useful across the Mid North Coast where the risk of freshening northerly winds may very well deteriorate surf conditions at open beaches, but offer good conditions at south swell magnets. So, keep that up your sleeve.

This weekend (Mar 22 - 23)

Most of our swell windows will be devoid of primary swell generation over the coming days, which means the weekend’s looking at slowly easing surf from Friday.

SE Qld and Far Northern NSW beaches may see some early 2-3ft sets from the east swell on Saturday but size will continue to ease to around 2ft through the day, and 1-2ft on Sunday. 

Friday’s south swell will be all but gone (across Northern NSW) by Saturday however there is a glimmer of hope for a minor pulse on Sunday. 

An intense but poorly aligned low pressure system passing south of Tasmania on Thursday will generate some minor long period sideband energy, perhaps offering super inconsistent 1-2ft sets at south swell magnets south of Byron. 

As for conditions, light variable winds and sea breezes are expected in most areas both days, though a weak trough off the Mid North Coast may slightly nudge up northerlies to its north (i.e. Yamba and surrounds) whilst bringing southerlies to the Lower Mid North Coast - albeit without much strength. 

To be fair, that’s not too far off the definition of ‘light and variable’ anyway. 

All in all, make the most of Saturday.

Next week (Mar 24 onwards)

Next week still looks initially slow on the local synoptics (so the first few days will maintain very small surf conditions), however we have a couple of areas of interest to keep an eye on.

First of all, a stationary high in the Tasman Sea will broaden a ridge across its northern flank, which will rebuild easterly swells across all coasts from very late Monday towards a broad peak through Tues/Wed, before easing Thursday. Size should reach somewhere in the 3ft range at exposed beaches.

Additionally, a surface trough developing at the tail of the ridge has more size potential (from the east), but for the following weekend. It's too early to have confidence in the resulting surf potential just yet though.

Elsewhere, and model guidance is suggesting we could see a sharp trough cross the Tasmanian divide mid–week, resulting in a strong Tasman Low somewhere east of Bass Strait by Thursday and a resulting punchy south swell for parts of the NSW coast late Thursday and/or Friday. 

Whether that favours Northern NSW is yet to be seen, but it’ll be well worth keeping an eye on.

See you Friday!

Comments

gedsta's picture
gedsta's picture
gedsta Wednesday, 19 Mar 2025 at 9:55pm

Typo in the first paragraph of the recap Ben.... should be Tuesday not Thursday?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Wednesday, 19 Mar 2025 at 10:49pm

Well spotted! Fixed... thanks.

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Wednesday, 19 Mar 2025 at 11:09pm

Some crazy winds off Antarctica at the end of the week

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 8:01am

Indeed!

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Thursday, 20 Mar 2025 at 12:14pm

Jeez, after some winds with west and south-west in them, you can smell the stink of the Richmond River all over Ballina.
Putrid.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 20 Mar 2025 at 8:08pm

It's so bad.
I went around the grounds today.
North of Byron is in good shape water quality wise, even right on the Bruns river.

Ballina and the Richmond is just a putrid mess of dead fish and brown, fully deoxygenated black water.

That extends all the way up past Lennox and 7 Mile Beach.

Banks are pretty crap too- few little bits and pieces but nothing worth getting in that stinking mess for.

I'm going to take the opportunity and get the skin chemo treatment done.

Anyone done it?

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 10:09am

Is that the cream, the topical chemo?
Happy Dan did it a few times when I was living with him, certainly made him lay low for a couple of days.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 10:14am

I Remember talking to M.R. about when he did the Lotion....Sounded Hard Core
Man has that Fella has some Lesions Cut Out...

seeds's picture
seeds's picture
seeds Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 10:24am

I’ve done it. 3-4 weeks you gotta apply the cream until erosive stage. Erosive is your arms and legs, in my case, melting and weeping profusely. It itches like mad and continues to itch like mad over couple weeks healing. I had too many so couldn’t spot treat- had to do whole forearms and lower legs.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 11:05am

sheezuz.

sounds fun.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 11:21am
seeds's picture
seeds's picture
seeds Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 12:53pm

Haha yeah and that’s only 2 weeks in. Wait till his face looks like it’s melting. Luckily my face ones have been able to be frozen off with the nitrous at my doctor’s surgery.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 11:21am

I remember one morning I walked into the kitchen and did a big double take, there was Dan looking like he'd been attacked by bees. Like I said, he did the treatment a couple of times but this one time it definitely made his head puff up.
Dunno why.

sandy's picture
sandy's picture
sandy Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 12:17pm

Hi mate
Photodynamic light therapy is another possible alternative to consider. It can produce really good results for areas like forehead, nose etc and isn’t as full on as the chemo based treatments I don’t think. I did this on the face, was not particularly enjoyable for a few days but healed well and I just didn’t want to use the chemo cream which looks a bit gnarlier. It uses a special cream and then exposure to red light I think it is.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 12:38pm

Thanks Sandy- will have a word to GP.

Pretty keen to just crack on and get it over and done with while this flood water and no banks sich is happening.

swellsam's picture
swellsam's picture
swellsam Thursday, 20 Mar 2025 at 2:06pm

looks to start getting a bit spicy at the end of next week?

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Thursday, 20 Mar 2025 at 4:44pm

Ben - some sites are calling for a possible Cyclone/ECL late March early April forming off the Capricorn Coast with a possible coastal crossing in SEQ. Are you seeing this is or is it pure speculation this far out?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 9:40am

IMO anything occurring in early April (as of March 20th) is speculation.

Prospects of a SE Qld crossing at almost two weeks in advance is nothing more than hyperbole.

Of course, cyclones are certainly possible at this time of the year but I suspect right now, mainstream media is doing what it does best (capitalise on recent events, get the website clicks and social media humming).

Is there any potential from the tropics? Yeah, it's looking pretty active across the northern half of the Coral Sea over the next few weeks.

But cyclone swell potential - similar to the opening stanza from TC Alfred - doesn't look quite as promising right now (more likely is a super-charged tradeswell event, with better easterly groundswell potential from an eventual extra-tropical low north of New Zealand at the end of the month).

Chances for a SE Qld crossing are very low (due to the likely surrounding environmental factors).

Of course, we'll have to watch this space daily over the coming weeks (TC Alfred initially had low potential for a coastal crossing!), but aside from your own model watching, my recommendation is to completely disregard general media sources, and only take advice from a limited number of weather forecasters.

On top of Craig and Steve here at Swellnet, Anthony Cornelius (on Facebook) offers incredible insights on a wide variety of weather events (he's based in SE Qld too, so tends to focus on this area) and Tom Saunders from the ABC writes some really informative weather articles - in addition to his nightly weather segment on ABC News - he's got great insights as to how things are likely to play out.

Also, stay away from Higgins Storm Chasing.

geoffrobertford's picture
geoffrobertford's picture
geoffrobertford Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 9:52am

Thanks Ben - I always enjoy reading Anthony's forecasts etc - so much more balanced and less hype!

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 11:36am

Thanks Ben, a mate sent it to me from Windy, but it seems to have gone now. I definitely don't follow the news channels for weather or Higgins - sensationalist rubbish in my experience. I'll stick to you guys and the others you mentioned!

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 11:40am

Any thoughts on WeatherWatchTV on Youtube?
Seemed ok when I was watching it during Alfred.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 11:59am

Haven't watched them before, so am not sure.

I suppose the question is, how many forecasters are needed?

I suppose it's all part of the doom-scrolling experience... click on one forecast, and eventually the algorithm will force feed you a dozen more, whether you like it or not.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 12:09pm

I'm just looking for one that is matter-of-fact and doesn't sound like he's calling a horserace.
Yeah easy to doomscroll, and disaster porn is definitely a thing.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 12:48pm

Give Anthony Cornelius a shot (on FB). Really knowledgeable fella.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 12:58pm

Cheers Ben

Meris's picture
Meris's picture
Meris Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 10:06am

Great advice Ben re weather forecast information.
Higgins definitely a touch on the sensational side .

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 11:14am

Crossed two days later as an ex-TC...

Plenny more hyperbole where that came from.

flow's picture
flow's picture
flow Friday, 21 Mar 2025 at 11:18am

Is that efudix cream FR? If so I'd do it in the winter months so your new skin doesn't get fried.