Fun swells from the east, then the south

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Forecast by Ben Matson (issued Fri May 31st)

Features of the Forecast (tl;dr)

  • Fun weekend of E/NE swells across most coasts
  • New S/SE swell for the MNC on Sun
  • Winds becoming NW in most areas Sat, though SW developing MNC
  • Generally SW winds for Sunday with clean beachies
  • Plenty of swell for next week too with a similar E/NE and S swell combo, under offshore winds

Recap

Easing south swell on Thursday across Northern NSW didn’t offer much surf north of the border. Today has seen building trade swells across the region, biggest in the north, with more size on the way.

This weekend (Jun 1 - 2)

A broad high pressure system in the north-eastern Tasman Sea has a reasonable trade flow atop its northern flank, and is generating a new E/NE swell that will build in size today then peak Saturday before easing Sunday. Size should hold somewhere in the 3ft, maybe 3-4ft range across most open coasts.

However, as the high slides to the east and a lingering coastal trough off Southern NSW slowly evolves into a closed circulation (before tracking south into Sun/Mon), we’ll see a broader E/NE fetch develop on the western flank of the Tasman high (see below). This will provide additional E/NE energy into Sunday, though probably not any bigger than the pre-existing trade swell, perhaps just an increase in the surf’s consistency as the swell trains overlap.

Our third swell source for the weekend is the developing low off Southern NSW (mentioned above, also see chart above) which will generate S/SE winds aimed up into the Mid North Coast on Saturday, providing some surf into Sunday, around 3-4ft at south facing beaches - though we may not see much energy penetrate north of about Coffs or Yamba.

The main factor to work around this weekend will be the winds. 

Lingering northerlies are a risk early Saturday at a handful of exposed regions (i.e. those parts of the coast that geographically extend further to the east than others) though the trend will be to the NW through the day so the afternoon at least - if not earlier - should offer very nice waves across most open beaches. 

The lower Mid North Coast will probably see S/SW tending SW winds encroach the region on Saturday as the trough starts to develop off Southern NSW. A general SW flow will then influence remaining regions into Sunday, though wind speeds will be lighter in Far Northern NSW and SE Qld.

Next week (Jun 3 onwards)

We’ve got some great waves in store for next week.

Model guidance is a little divergent, but right now my optimism is seeing the E/NE fetch in the northern Tasman holding through the weekend and generating useful swell from this direction through the first half of the week with size around 3-4ft at exposed beaches, perhaps a little smaller as we start to head north of the border.

Additionally, the low off Southern NSW is a tricky synoptic proposition but various incarnations from Sunday through Wednesday should provide a wide range of direct S/SE thru’ sideband S/SW swell across south facing beaches (south of Byron) through the first half of the week. South swell magnets should manage anywhere from 4-6ft (MNC) to 3-4ft (Far Northern NSW) on Monday before easing through Tuesday and Wednesday.

I don’t think we’ll see much southerly swell north of the border though, away from the handful of reliable swell magnets.

Local winds are also looking for the first half of next week, as we see a general W/SW outflow across the top of the coastal low. The breeze may become a little blustery across the Mid North Coast but overall it’s shaping up to a nice run of surf for most open beaches.

The second half of the week has plenty of potential for more south swell (favouring Northern NSW in the size department), with lingering troughiness along the Southern NSW coastal margin likely to evolve into another low pressure system, especially if it merges with a series of frontal systems approaching from the south-west.

Comments

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Friday, 31 May 2024 at 11:27am

Willy weather has the northerlies lingering until late Saturday and more SW winds sunday.
I took monday off work to rip in, hope it pumps!

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Friday, 31 May 2024 at 9:27pm

Not really sure if you need the bold lettering hey. That’s what the ‘tl;dr’ is for. Some of us still have attention spans hehe

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Saturday, 1 Jun 2024 at 9:17am

Not much energy yet on the tweed

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Saturday, 1 Jun 2024 at 1:03pm

Wind hasn't swung yet NW yet either, will be lucky if it cleans up for the arvo sesh as hoped

juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre's picture
juegasiempre Saturday, 1 Jun 2024 at 1:32pm

Cleaned up down here on the MNC. Debating whether to go for an arvo sesh in the waves or on the Gatorade sax. Maybe both?

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Saturday, 1 Jun 2024 at 2:03pm

lol waves first then gatorade sax.

seeds's picture
seeds's picture
seeds Saturday, 1 Jun 2024 at 2:03pm

Hahaha

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Saturday, 1 Jun 2024 at 2:55pm

My day so far watching the wind obs and surf cam.

And so it continues.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Saturday, 1 Jun 2024 at 5:26pm

I went out anyway.
Should’ve just kept on waiting.

adsi's picture
adsi's picture
adsi Saturday, 1 Jun 2024 at 5:31pm

Hahaha I'm glad I stayed home and hit the Kong instead

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Saturday, 1 Jun 2024 at 6:48pm

Cape Byron obs gone WNW at 6pm the bastard.

greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams's picture
greg-n.williams Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 1:18pm

Sunday bloody Sunday! Contests on for local B/riders @ my local & one further up the coast, at basically the only 2 points handling this strong South swell with nice west winds. GOT A FEW EARLY B4 THE CONTEST GOT ROLLING (3 waves) but swell still hadn't really started to ramp up! Oh well might still be a few after they pack up for the preso & a few ales @ the local RSL!

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 2:55pm

what a shame the wind went sou east just as i arrived at my fave swell magnet on low tide. had to settle for little point grinders. pity, i was hoping for all day offshores as the forecast suggested

tip-top1's picture
tip-top1's picture
tip-top1 Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 3:04pm

was some nice ones on the sc this morning,

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 4:34pm

Yep. Were grinding away quite nicely on the low tide too.

andy-mac's picture
andy-mac's picture
andy-mac Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 4:18pm

Slow but really nice when they came this morning on SC...

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 5:05pm

Few really nice ones here, when they came.
Long periods of 1-2ft surf then a flurry of 4ft sets.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 5:14pm

2-3 foot perfect little wedgy barrels on shallow banks.
Water much cleaner was the cherry on top.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 5:20pm

How nice was the sunshine and Bluewater!

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 5:49pm

Boardies from 8:30 onwards. Water and air so warm

southernraw's picture
southernraw's picture
southernraw Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 5:59pm

And floaties and a whistle for you right? You pussay

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 6:06pm

Nah, just boardies. You would be good with a whistle. You can blow it every time you don’t see equality in the waves. Man, women or child. Just like a lollipop lady.

eat-your-vegies's picture
eat-your-vegies's picture
eat-your-vegies Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 6:29pm

Ha ha
Come on you girls , stop bitchin.

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 7:09pm

Absolutely magic, so fun, but only a handful of single wave 4 footers in the 2 hours thru low.
Tomorrow looking good!

nextswell's picture
nextswell's picture
nextswell Sunday, 2 Jun 2024 at 7:24pm

Yeah 2ft this morning at 830. Gave it a miss. Did some kid play and chores and got out at 1.30 with an incoming tide. Solid 4ft sets. Wind was ssw, more cross than offshore but didn’t ruin the fun. Looking forward to the am session. Already got the sorry I’ll be late work text msg drafted.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 7:27am

Pumping 3ft+ barrels before about 6:30 yesterday, tide going out sucked the life out of it. Lunchy on the incoming about 2ft. Late arvo near high better again, such is the sand I've been on. Beautiful 2ft this morning a lot slower.

spookypt's picture
spookypt's picture
spookypt Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 11:18am

Twas very slower SC north Sunday. 1 good wave at 6am (dark ) but no real energy or push after Saturdays paddle challenge (def better winds Sunday) Today early went as far north as I could go and super duper slow. Man SB Village roads are a zoo now. Roads blocked off and construction everywhere. Its a UTE muster! Surfed boardies and wetsuit rasshy long arms both days... Some wanka called me a Victorian today. Waters 23degrees and while its cool on dark its nice in the sun. But that little snigger comment about summed it up! Grrr

pjbyron's picture
pjbyron's picture
pjbyron Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 11:32am

Bluebird morning today... overhead takeoffs, straight 10kt westerly, peaks up and down the beach, few were too straight but most were A frames of fun... and yep boardies and long sleeve vest me too.

wavie's picture
wavie's picture
wavie Monday, 3 Jun 2024 at 1:25pm

scored yesterday morning on the northcoast perfect 3 foot a frames, one of the best surfs i had