Last of the S swell over the weekend with plenty of E swell and wind next week

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Fri 14th Apr)

Forecast Summary (tl;dr)

  • Moderate+ S/SE swell persisting across Northern NSW Thurs thru' Sat; only small in SE Qld but workable
  • Sat the pick of the weekend with good winds early tending NE in the a’noon
  • Small and N’ly Sun
  • Solid E/NE and S/SE swells building from Mon next week as trough-block pattern establishes
  • Sizey Mon-Thurs with plenty of S-SSE wind, slowly easing through the week
  • Likely rebuild in SE swell next weekend with plenty of SSE winds- stay tuned for updates

Recap

Small S/SSE swells have continued since Wed with yesterday seeing 2-3ft surf at S facing beaches in NENSW, 1-2ft at  SEQLD S swell magnets under W-NW winds which tended SW-S through the a’noon as a small low off the North Coast wound up and then moved away. A small late pulse of S swell has carried over into today with sets to 4ft at NENSW S facing beaches and 2-3ft at SEQLD S swell magnets and Northern Corners. SW-S winds are now easing and tending more SE-NE. 

Not much shape to it but a fair bit of S swell getting into Northern Corners on the Sunshine Coast

This weekend (Apr 15 - 16)

No great change to the weekend f/cast. Sat morning still looking nice with an offshore flow developing o/night Fri and extending well into the morning before light/variable winds then pre-frontal N’lies kick in south of the border. North of the border we should see a lighter SE-NE flow through the a’noon. Residual SSE swell from a lingering fetch caused by this week’s Tasman Low becoming slow moving in New Zealand longitudes supplies 3-4ft surf early, with a slow easing trend in place through the a’noon. S facing beaches will be the only clean options as the N’ly kicks in.

Sunday sees easing swells from that source from the morning- with some stray 2-3ft sets in NENSW, tiny 1-2ft in SEQLD at the most reliable S swell magnets and Northern Corners. Early winds should be OK for the beachies with a NW tilt but they’ll tend mod N-N/NE through the day.

Next week (Apr 17 onwards)

OK, we’re getting more clarity on the dynamic situation expected to unfold next week. The current small low off the North Coast quickly gets whisked away towards New Zealand and becomes enjoined in a long, NW-SE blocking trough pattern, which is expected to have more low pressure centres embedded in it next week. 

Initially the low enhances a broad E-E/NE wind infeed over the weekend, contracting NE into a low pressure centre near the North Island early next week. In the Tasman, a SSE feed is enhanced along the lower end of the trough.

The passage of a front later Sun brings a stiff S’ly change for Mon as a high pressure ridge builds in behind the front, likely reaching the border by 9am, wth a brief period of lighter winds in advance of the change. E/SE swell from the Cook Strait fetch and developing E’ly fetch off the West Coast of the North Island as well as SSE swell from the Tasman Sea sees surf build into the 3-5ft range during the day after a smaller start.

Stronger E/SE-SSE swell then fills in Tues into the 4-6ft range under a stiff S-SSE flow as high pressure moves off the Central NSW Coast. 

Winds should ease a notch for Wed as pressure gradients ease as the trough/block pattern starts to break down . Strong, mid-period ESE swell holds in the 4-6ft range, with a slight, slow easing trend likely by close of play.

We should see a proper offshore flow through Thurs with a continuing slow easing in mid period ESE swell, although still in the 4ft range to begin with.

Further into next week and swells are likely to ease slowly through Fri as the trough/block pattern and embedded lows retreat eastwards.

The potential cyclone we mentioned on Wed now looks to manifest as a surface low in the Coral Sea which retrogrades South-westwards back towards the SEQLD Coast and possibly further South, enhancing a fetch of SE winds through the Northern Tasman next weekend.

Under current modelling that would see a windy rebuild in wave heights from the E/SE, initially favouring the sub-tropics and extending into temperate regions as the fetch moves S.

We’d expect surf to rebuild back into the 4-5ft range through next weekend with plenty of SSE-SE wind under current modelling.

We’ll see how that shapes up on Mon, but we’ll have plenty to talk about with the upcoming pattern.

Check back then and have a great weekend!

Comments

conrico's picture
conrico's picture
conrico Saturday, 15 Apr 2023 at 10:33am

Just out of interest, why does north NSW miss the south swell that hits Sydney? Sydney had 1-2 bigger ft all last swell

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Saturday, 15 Apr 2023 at 10:43am

There's a wide number of factors but firstly, most south swells are generated more towards southern NSW, so there's the swell decay to take into account. While the period will draw out pushing north, there'll be size loss due to swell decay.

Secondly the origins of the swell. Last week's large southerly pulse was actually generated down off Tasmania, and squeezed right up against the continent, so any south swell pushing up past Seal Rocks has to bend back in, losing size compared to Sydney and the Hunter region which extend out more favourably to capture it.

If the swell is made more over towards New Zealand, off the South Island then a more even spread in size could be expected, though still biggest across the Hunter and lower Mid North Coast.

conrico's picture
conrico's picture
conrico Saturday, 15 Apr 2023 at 1:57pm

Legend thanks Craig!

groovie's picture
groovie's picture
groovie Saturday, 15 Apr 2023 at 11:57am

Goes straight past here unless there is an east element in the swell. Can chase it at south facing beaches with an increasing number of people in the line up these days. Will this east swell nxt week have offshores in the early morns Craig?

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Saturday, 15 Apr 2023 at 1:48pm

Depends on region but yes, mostly. Looks S/SW at least, better and more W/SW further south. Tuesday looks diciest and Wednesday periods of W/NW to the south. In short favourable windows.

tiger's picture
tiger's picture
tiger Saturday, 15 Apr 2023 at 12:47pm

Any number higher than 150° is dead to me.

Le_Reynard's picture
Le_Reynard's picture
Le_Reynard Saturday, 15 Apr 2023 at 9:03pm

Ha! Was 182° at one point last week.
I'm with ya.

Top tank's picture
Top tank's picture
Top tank Saturday, 15 Apr 2023 at 7:42pm

Easy tiger…

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Sunday, 16 Apr 2023 at 12:34pm

Free driving a bait ball
Mad

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Sunday, 16 Apr 2023 at 12:41pm

Anchovies.