Pumping surf from a tropical low to start the New Year

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)

South-east Queensland and Northern NSW Surf Forecast by Steve Shearer (issued Wed Dec29)

SEQLD/NENSW Forecast Summary (tl;dr)

  • Chunky SE/ESE swell Tues holding Thurs-Fri as strong high pressure ridge sets up, best surf on the Points under SE winds
  • Swell increasing late Fri on Sunny Coast, Sat on the Gold Coast, as tropical low tracks parallel to coast. SE winds, pumping on the Points.
  • Swell pumping Sun across the region with SE winds, swell direction beginning to tend more E/SE on Sunny Coast
  • Strong, longer period E'ly pulse favouring NENSW for most size Mon, with lighter winds potentially opening up beachbreak options on Sunny Coast
  • Slow easing Tues with plenty of size early (especially in NENSW) and light land breezes
  • Small S swell Wed with leftover E swells
  • Potential for strong pulse of S or S/SE groundswell next weekend
  • More tropical developments later next week, stay tuned for updates
  • Plenty more surf into the New Year, stay tuned for revisions

Recap

A powerful high pressure surge built a strong ridge through the f/cast region over the last 48hrs, with a mix of short period SE swells and longer period S swells seeing surf build into the 3-5ft range in NENSW yesterday, grading smaller 2-3ft in SEQLD. Size has eased a notch in NENSW today as S swell eases in the mix, with SE swell dominating and providing 3ft surf, smaller 2ft in protected locations. SEQLD has seen short period SE/ESE swell in the 3-4ft range at exposed breaks, grading smaller into Points. Outer Points were in the 2-3ft range, with smaller surf wrapping in. SE winds have been on the menu, lighter inshore early. 

Plenty of energy this morning with some punchy peaks on offer

This week (Dec 27-31)

A dual-centred high is ever-so-slowly tracking through the Bight, with the smaller, eastern centre now sliding into the Tasman Sea. The extremely strong high pressure surge experienced since Monday has weakened as pressure gradients ease which is ushering in more settled conditions. The action in the tropics is hot and heavy with a tropical low (Invest 97S) located just south of Mornington Island in the western Gulf of Carpenteria. This low is expected to  track quickly across Cape York Peninsula, reforming in the Coral Sea within the next 24 hrs. It’s still a chance of then forming into a tropical cyclone, although it’s far more likely to remain a tropical low. Surf prospects from this low are now confirmed as excellent with major weather models expecting the system to track parallel to the East Coast, possibly reforming as a significant extra-tropical storm in the lower Tasman Sea next week. Let’s dig in to the details. 

Not much change in the short term f/cast pattern. South-east winds remain entrenched, shifting more E’ly south of Yamba as the dominant high drifts into the Tasman. 

We’re still looking at mostly shorter period swell from the SE/ESE, in the 3ft range through Thurs. Quality will depend on exposure to the wind. Cleanest waves on the Points but there will be messier, bigger options at semi-exposed Points/beachies and breakwalls.

Friday brings more of the same. SE winds in QLD, tending more E’ly the further south you go. Possibly E/NE or NE on the Mid North Coast. By New Years Eve the charts will be looking insane, with a tropical low off the CQ/Fraser Coast. That will see some major gradations in surf size through the f/cast region. Size from the supporting fetch should build through the a’noon on the Sunshine Coast, pushing up into the 3-4ft range during the a’noon. It’s doubtful this increase will make it to the Gold Coast NYE. Expect more of the same 3ft surf there, grading smaller 2-3ft and even smaller with increasing S’ly latitude.

This weekend (Jan 1 - 2)

Pumping, in a word, for New Years Day. With the low tracking due E of SEQLD overnight Fri into Sat the prognosis is excellent for building surf from the E through Sat, with the arrival times dependent on latitude. Surf will be pumping on the Sunny Coast early, in the 4-6ft range, smaller across the Inner Points. Lighter S winds turning SE through the day and easing as the low tracks level with the area. Expect size to build during the day on the Gold Coast and through the a’noon across NENSW where size will be a little more subdued in the 3-5ft range. 

 The strongest winds migrate from the “dangerous semi-circle” along the western flank to the southern flank during Sat/Sun. 

That should see an excellent pulse of longer period E swell arriving during Sun, more noticeable as a muscling up of the swell. That should peak AM on the Sunny Coast in the 5-6ft range, lunch-time onwards on the Goldy, and later in the a’noon in NENSW north of Yamba at similar sizes. Lighter SE winds are on offer as the system drags in the synoptic flow. It all adds up to a ton of good to great surf on the Points, sand banks and crowds permitting. This will be a solid swell with a heap of water moving around so surf places according to your ability and experience levels.

Final update in Fridays f/cast notes.

Next week (Jan3 onwards)

The cradling fetch intensifies as the low drifts south, with broad fetch of gales aimed at NSW. A core fetch of stronger storm force winds is also in the swell window aimed more directly at the northern NSW coast with a slight SW retrograde possible.

That suggests a more serious ramp up in size and juice through NENSW Mon. Size should ease through the Sunny Coast Mon, more noticeable at the N facing points as swell direction tends more E/SE. Plenty of size on the open beaches which may be surfable with a light SW wind expected.

Goldy continues to pump with lighter winds and swell direction tending more E/SE through the day. Size in the 4-6ft range slowly easing through the day.

Expect more serious size in NENSW on Mon. The direct hit from the core fetch aimed at the region is likely to see some bomb sets in the 6-8ft range at exposed breaks during the day. This will be serious surf so be prepared or find somewhere sheltered from the direct brunt of the swell. With SW winds tending light S’ly during the day Mon is likely to provide some great surf at places that can handle that size swell from the E.

Tues morning looks fantastic. Light land breezes should see A-grade conditions for the beachies, with plenty of surf easing  off the weekends/Mondays peak. Size in the 3-4ft range on the Sunshine Coast, 3-5ft on the Goldy with 6ft sets in NENSW, should see an excellent morning of surfing. Expect morning land breezes to tend NE through the day. If crowds and size have been a bit much you’ll want to pencil in Tues, although there will still be plenty of juice in NENSW.

The second half of next week is still a bit of a mystery bag. S swell is likely to fill in later Wed across NENSW, generated by the front which brings a  S’ly change Wed. Expect S to SSE winds through Wed. Leftover E’ly swell energy should hold 3ft surf at more protected locations.

Models diverge through next week. EC suggests an extra-tropical transition with the low becoming a strong, mid-latitude storm and drifting towards New Zealand’s South Island later next week. That suggests S to SSE swell  holding into next week, with a more powerful pulse of S/SE groundswell into the weekend. 

GFS has the system race away to the south before undergoing ETT (extra-tropical transition) and re-strengthening in the far Southern Tasman Sea mid-late next week. Latest modelling suggests a powerful, long period straight S swell from this source likely arriving next weekend.

Further tropical low pressure is expected to develop in the Coral Sea or near South Pacific in the New Caledonia area during this period, as well as a possible low pressure trough off the NSW Central Coast. Under current synoptic dynamics, these scenarios will likely be subject to serious revision. 

Looks like plenty of surf ahead though.

Check back NYE for the Final F/cast notes for 2021. Plenty of good news is expected.

Comments

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 3:54pm

Swell direction will be the main ingredient I reckon.
it will change quite quickly through the course of this swell event.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 3:57pm

I was hoping for a little bigger over the weekend after I saw the words pumping. 4-6ft outer points = 3 to 4 ft inner points = insane crowds and less waves.
Let's call it decent surf.
Bring on Monday in NNSW. Yeeew
Sigh

Island Bay's picture
Island Bay's picture
Island Bay Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 4:00pm

Geez, some good Point surf coming...

crustylapel's picture
crustylapel's picture
crustylapel Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 4:02pm

Steve, will the MNC see decent size Monday?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 4:18pm

yep.
timing will be slight lag compared to more N'ly regions.

but it will be solid.

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 4:04pm

Holiday crowd, good swell and good wind on the points. Ding repairers dream.
Some points have amazing sand, and others not so much.
It's going to be fun.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 4:19pm

# Mid Length Madness

richard187's picture
richard187's picture
richard187 Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 4:59pm

What do you reckon the chances of getting a park in Noosa NP.

surfiebum's picture
surfiebum's picture
surfiebum Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 5:56pm

1am - good
2am - couple left
3am - packed

Tony Miller-Greenman's picture
Tony Miller-Greenman's picture
Tony Miller-Greenman Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 3:05pm

Why complain when you are the one telling people about it and spreading the word? Keep it hush hush

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 6:11pm

Lol - about the same as getting a wave to yourself once you do jag a park

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 6:08pm

I imagine the proximity of the system will make it super consistent (and possibly sweepy?)
Hopefully the skis respect the guys that have earnt their position in the line up.

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 6:16pm

Steve - are you still thinking NE winds south of Yamba Sat/Sun or more light SE now? I'm guessing the low will track further east than initial thoughts as the BOM has downgraded rainfall expectations on the weekend from 90-100mm back to 15mm?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 6:35pm

Sat is 50/50 but more likely light E, tending E/SE in the a'noon.
Sun deffo S'ly

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 7:49pm

Perfect. Cheers mate

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 6:37pm

Meh, hopefully moves some sand around at least, wake me when it's Autumn.

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 8:56pm

Such a double edged sword. It’ll be great to see some swell about but with Noosa the only real viable option I doubt I’ll even get a wave until Monday.

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 10:00pm

Alex Bluff & Carties are sick waves braaaaah, you'll get hella pitted there.

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:47am

Cheers man. I've often thought I should get down there during a solid swell event.

Dannon's picture
Dannon's picture
Dannon Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:32pm

Whats wrong with you?

#brissy kooks.

Dannon's picture
Dannon's picture
Dannon Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:51pm

FarQ Tom you cunt.

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 9:38pm

Lol I live two hours from Brisvegas homie.

And obviously, you can't detect sarcasm; who the fuck would want to surf either of those breaks I named?... I guess Carties can get decent occasionally but it's not the kind of spot you protect.

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 10:23pm

With crowds these days, all spots are spots you protect, regardless, Carties will be shit, not a big enough headland for the wind and Alex, well, see the screenshot.

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 10:47pm

Local accesses/lesser known headlands absolutely, name-dropping is inherently off limits.

On the sc, the central name breaks are beyond repair so being protective is a futile process.

Dannon's picture
Dannon's picture
Dannon Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 6:38am

Flog.

Rockethut's picture
Rockethut's picture
Rockethut Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 9:36pm

Noosa only option? Maaaate you gotta climb out your box.

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 9:42pm

Border situation + vaccine bullshit and similar crowds at every other point break within 2-3 hours of here… it’s a big box.

boogiefever's picture
boogiefever's picture
boogiefever Wednesday, 29 Dec 2021 at 11:52pm

Perfect forecast for 10/10 snapper-kirra....but dont tell anyone.

Ssssssh, its a secret.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 7:33am

The down the beach view of Alex beach.
wowee
I would um and arr about heading out in that with no one out let alone with the 500 that are out.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 7:37am

Shoulder to shoulder!

Not sure about 500 though.. I just counted heads and got to about 90 (certainly take your point though, it's very busy).

gsco's picture
gsco's picture
gsco Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:03am

Took a look earlier. The surf's complete crap. The water's brown. It's a coldish, overcast and showery morning. Yet it's so busy down there it's nearly impossible to get a carpark. I must be missing something...

Something else I'm confused about: since when did Sharks become Geriatrics...?

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:17am

Since every boomer in the country retired here thanks to Covid, along with all the new additions in the Stockland slums trying their hand, plus there's barely been a wave over 3ft since they started. They'll clear out when it gets overhead.

nick.minor's picture
nick.minor's picture
nick.minor Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 9:32am

You know how expensive aura and harmony are now sprout. It's fucked ay

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 12:24pm

You couldn't pay me enough to live in either of those shit holes.

cam.jw's picture
cam.jw's picture
cam.jw Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 12:32pm

What’s wrong with a 250m2 lot, and a kitchen window steering into your neighbours lounge?

nick.minor's picture
nick.minor's picture
nick.minor Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 3:29pm

Yeah I'm the dumbass who's going to leave the coast and buy in Caboolture. Priced out of aura. So good

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 6:42pm

True, brutal.

chook's picture
chook's picture
chook Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:57pm

couldn't even get into the road to get to the carpark at one spot this morning. but it is the week between xmas and new year. so no great surprise there. I found somewhere donkey's laugh away that had a steep 15 minute walk in...had the place to myself.

CampDog's picture
CampDog's picture
CampDog Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 11:31am

Any idea when the pass cam will be back? Would be fun to watch the carnage without fighting off a few soccer rovers n hipster cruisers.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 12:11pm

Will be in the next few days, just gotta arrange to swap out a router (Xmas period always a little tricky).

CampDog's picture
CampDog's picture
CampDog Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:51pm

Yep hectic time of year. Thanks so much.

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 10:05pm

It is quite a good reality show that one haha

tango's picture
tango's picture
tango Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 2:38pm

Udo, mate. Stop there.

monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 2:16pm

Words for the young, wise and the wicked:

Also: a word of warning. At this holiday time, a strong swell event can pose risks to many people, surfers or otherwise. Please, keep an eye on your fellow water-lovers, and use your knowledge of your own skill level to help you decide when and where to surf.

Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 2:56pm

haha, nice lift from surfline there monkeyboy

monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:22pm

Well spotted :):):)

tango's picture
tango's picture
tango Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 2:41pm

Solid surf at 10-12 seconds......just enough time to get to the surface, grab a lungful and get flogged again. Sounds like unreal fun, so if the crowd's giving you the shits, just remember you could be stuck in Victoria with summer madness and onshores.

tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir's picture
tomrnoir Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:05pm

Portsea looked fun today. Better weather than up here too.

Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror's picture
Finnbob the terror Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:50pm

no banks just close outs

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 3:07pm

will be unlikely anyone who hasn't got their fitness/skills up will make it out back.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 3:32pm

Yes there will be multiple swells in the water from this one so I can’t see any real lulls.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 3:34pm

I almost blacked out from heat exhaustion once trying to get off the rocks in the noon-day sun on a high tide cyclone swell.

must been there for 45 mins.

there were 20 foot sidewinder surges up the rocks. It was death defying.
total horror show.

then paddled out and got a 10 foot set on the head.

booyah.

monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:25pm

gawd. I've jumped off the rocks at North Avalon only to land in the pool with no board (board made it to the Ocean somehow). Last time I went out on a decent swell at Boiling Pot I ended up half way down main beach .. got to time that one right.

tango's picture
tango's picture
tango Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:46pm

My word, Ruprecht. My word.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 3:49pm

I’m also thinking outer points (which I assume is like BURLEIGH or snapper) will be larger than 4-6ft come late Saturday/early Sunday.

And if EC comes to fruition Sunday arvo could be even bigger as EC had the Tc stalling off SE QLD even with a slight retrograde.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 3:58pm

8-12 + sun

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:10pm

yep, more curve balls from EC.

bryank's picture
bryank's picture
bryank Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 3:43pm

yewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwvvvvwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwvwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww sigh

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:20pm

From BOM:
"As the development is largely a result of non-tropical factors, the expectation is that it won't be considered as being a tropical cyclone"

I'd love to know what's stopping it from dropping into a cyclone

monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy's picture
monkeyboy Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:26pm

Qld government changed the definition.....

CampDog's picture
CampDog's picture
CampDog Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 5:39pm

Bahahaha

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:22pm

I always find the lead up to these events is the most fun. Then Late Sat/Sun/Monday Kirra with all the skis and every surfer on the GC.

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:27pm

This swell will rip the sand from Burleigh, which i believe is a good thing right now as its pretty average at best.

Making the rocky a good option for the Single fin comp next weekend (best viewing) although just looking at the WAMS looks like more swell, however im sure there is lots of changes to come.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 4:39pm

Trying to find an acceptable analogue system.

I'm coming up with TC Uesi.

Had a more favourable SW track but eased in strength as it hit the swell window.

That was a peak of 6-8ft surf with some 10ft bombs. Dropped back to 4ft the next day.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 5:33pm

I believe this one could be similar for areas north of the border as once it drops south of BRISBANE latitudes it looks to only have a fetch on its S/SW flank that’s aimed back up here.

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 6:16pm

Jeez, not just holiday crowds in the surf to worry about at Noosa.

"Police in Noosa say they were kept "very busy" by groups of up to 100 teenagers "rampaging" through the streets and a brawl where an unconscious man had his head stomped on multiple times."

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-12-30/noosa-assault-groups-of-up-to-100...

Sprout's picture
Sprout's picture
Sprout Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 6:41pm

And people wonder why the toffs want to keep everyone out.

Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding's picture
Ben Harding Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 7:02pm

Heavy...but not really suprised, this been happening every holidays since god knows when. My big bro and his mates got absolutely pumped 20 years ago by a big group that made sure they were known as Noosa Crew at some park party. Noosa and Mools particularly violent around any festive season. Pretty much every NYE there is an article released about a brawl on Hastings or @ O'Malley's in Mools with someone in ICU. What good comes being out after 12/1/2am these days? Beers with your mates at someone's joynt takes the cake. Easily.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 7:03pm

JTWC confirms a hybrid system: THIS SYSTEM IS A HYBRID SYSTEM WITH BOTH
SUBTROPICAL AND TROPICAL CHARACTERISTICS, AND IS LOCATED JUST NORTH
OF A SUBTROPICAL JET.

But still bullish on it forming a TC proper: THE POTENTIAL FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF A
SIGNIFICANT TROPICAL CYCLONE WITHIN THE NEXT 24 HOURS REMAINS HIGH.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 7:43pm

Thanks Steve, interesting.

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 10:37pm

Water temps look pretty good for TC development: http://www.bom.gov.au/oceanography/forecasts/

Fresh55's picture
Fresh55's picture
Fresh55 Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 7:07pm

Wind predict has in stalling off Fraser. Have things changed with the direction and path of the low ?

Fresh55's picture
Fresh55's picture
Fresh55 Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 7:07pm

Wind predict has in stalling off Fraser. Have things changed with the direction and path of the low ?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 7:50pm

There are some model differences.

EC stalls the system out off the QLD/NENSW coast.

GFS continues to run it south.

stay tuned.

pigdog's picture
pigdog's picture
pigdog Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:13pm

great read gents. a life sentance for every second xmas holidays @the inlaws in grafton aint so bad after all:)

Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67's picture
Surfalot67 Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:05pm

BOM still saying NE winds sat sun on the Wooli to Smoky Cape marine forecast. Seems that the weekend will be shite

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:20pm

Keep an eye on Sunday..

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:51pm

Fun reading all these comments from down here. (vic)

Udo's call of 8-12 foot + sounds tempting. I'm assuming you could get uncrowded waves when its that size?

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 10:09pm

VERY limited options around SE QLD & Nth NSW at that size, so the places you can surf are PACKED.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 10:22pm

Yeah I didn’t think there’d be many options.
Should be a fun few days coming up Burleigh.

tango's picture
tango's picture
tango Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 8:52pm

Watch out, I can see Sportsbet wading into these if you blokes get too carried away.

Roystein's picture
Roystein's picture
Roystein Thursday, 30 Dec 2021 at 10:41pm

Not sure which engine powers windy app but I’m seeing 6-8ft opens, 10ft at times Saturday Sunday dropping quick and mid period (10-12 secs)
Means 4-6ft Noosa and inside snapper points I think but only for 36 hours max

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 5:42am

Last hybrid systems I recall smashed the Quiksilver Pro events in (I think) '04 and '06'. Pretty sure one of those days saw 15ft+ sets off the Tweed Bar. Spectacular stuff though it destroyed the banks for a while.

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 6:25am

aaarrrgggh, still model differences as the system drifts off SEQLD.
Going to be an interesting day.

With a large hybrid system so close to the coast any small differences in track will make big differences in local surf size and wind conditions.

Distracted's picture
Distracted's picture
Distracted Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 6:43am

The way a couple of the models show the low just sitting of the coast for about a week must be the ultimate in a ‘cradling high’ type setup?!

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 6:48am

not much action on the cams yet

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 7:02am

Nothing major due until late tomorrow.

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 7:07am

gotcha

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 8:20am

This morning was unreal fun.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 7:20am

Goofy check Windy tv charts around 8 pm Sat
And keep your eye on Aggie cam late today and tomorrow.

gsco's picture
gsco's picture
gsco Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 7:38am

Noosa weekend surf forecast:

bluediamond's picture
bluediamond's picture
bluediamond Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 8:52am

Yep. I reckon what Udo said for Sunday.. 10foot plus and robust.

nick.minor's picture
nick.minor's picture
nick.minor Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 10:45am

So how fast does a wave travel

dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope's picture
dawnperiscope Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 10:50am

I find it really surprising there is not much rain forecast over the next week. I would have thought that once the inland trough inflects next week it would be pulling the ocean weather across the coast. But I guess there are higher factors at play keeping it out there. I really hope it doesn't happen as the Tweed is already so wet.
Does anyone have any knowledge of how they decipher if a wave goes into the top 10 on the tweed wave buoy? I'm sure Ben has posted bigger waves on the graph in recent years that haven't made it onto the top 10.

seeds's picture
seeds's picture
seeds Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 11:37am

Sets starting to roll in at AW

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 12:00pm

Yep...
An hour off Low tide - with a 2.7 high @ 6.30 pm
Stepladder..

nick.minor's picture
nick.minor's picture
nick.minor Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 12:18pm

How fast does a wave travel?

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 3:27pm

In deep water, defined as when the depth of the water column (h) is more than half the wavelength (L), a wave travels at 1.56*T m/s, where T is the wave period in seconds. When h < L/2, the wave begins to 'feel' the sea floor and fictional forces slow the velocity of the wave, the wavelength decreases, while period remains the same. The wavelength is calculated by 1.56*T^2, so if you know the period you can then work out the point at which the wave transitions from a deepwater wave and begins to slow down.
I guess that might not answer your question as I suspect you mean waves in shallow water? I'm not sure of the formula for such waves but you could stand on a headland and time the waves to travel a known distance.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 12:15pm
scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 12:58pm

absolutely devastated. been watching this develop through the forecasts for weeks now, managed to plan and get time off, and now everyone in my house has covid and i have to isolate at home for 10 days while everyone else gets pitted. lucky bastards

goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot's picture
goofyfoot Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 2:25pm

Fuuuuuuuck

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 2:31pm

Bummer!

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 1:07pm

I'll be right there with you on the sidelines.

burleigh's picture
burleigh's picture
burleigh Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 1:08pm

You got the spicy cough Freeride?

freeride76's picture
freeride76's picture
freeride76 Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 1:23pm

back injury

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 1:51pm

I feel ya pain Steve!! Hope it mends well soon.

Jono's picture
Jono's picture
Jono Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 6:16pm

I also get a back injury when the forecast is 8-10ft :/

scrotina's picture
scrotina's picture
scrotina Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 7:36pm

lol, 8-10ft is big tho

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 8:30pm

Anyone got a leggie string?
I’d be out there in a second but can’t find a damn leggie string FFS.

AndyM's picture
AndyM's picture
AndyM Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 8:39pm

If it's over 8-10ft I plan to have a migraine coming on.

lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy's picture
lostdoggy Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 8:49pm

I have this pill for ya. Fixes all migraines.
Cya out there.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 1:45pm

No bueno regarding cyclone..

https://www.metoc.navy.mil/jtwc/products/sh9722web.txt

"THE SYSTEM IS CURRENTLY CLASSIFIED AS A SUBTROPICAL
STORM, GENERALLY CHARACTERIZED AS HAVING BOTH TROPICAL AND MID-
LATITUDE CYCLONE FEATURES"

"THE POTENTIAL FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF A SIGNIFICANT TROPICAL CYCLONE
WITHIN THE NEXT 24 HOURS IS DOWNGRADED TO MEDIUM. "

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 5:17pm

BoM has labelled it a cyclone in their forecast charts: http://www.bom.gov.au/australia/charts/4day_col.shtml

SDW's picture
SDW's picture
SDW Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 5:19pm
donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 1:50pm

Wow GFS being super bullish with that fetch on the eastern half compared to EC.

Plasticspastic's picture
Plasticspastic's picture
Plasticspastic Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 4:28pm

Jeezuz Don.. Bullish? WE talking ASX or surf condys??

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 4:39pm

Better than the bearish conditions in West Oz.

I'm shorting the Vicco region right now, and going long on the North Shore too.

bluediamond's picture
bluediamond's picture
bluediamond Friday, 31 Dec 2021 at 8:53pm

Not sure what would be more intimidating..a thumping short range swell from a severe storm, or trying to follow and predict it for the legions of swellnet frothers. Great work FR and the swellnet team for all your efforts in keeping us frothed up this year. Cheers!